The Omaha .SunrmiBee Magazine Page
Copyright 1311 bv American-Examiner. Great Britain Bights flsservad.
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J$n Evening Creation of White Satin and
an Afternoon Gown of Chiffon Illustrate
the Mew
Mote
LADY DUFF-GORDON, the Famous "Luck" of London.
and (oremott creator of fashions in the world, writes each
week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting "
that is newest and best in style for well-dressed women.
Lady Duf-Gordon'a Paris establishment brings her into
close touch with that centre of fashion. x
Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at No. 17
West Thirty-sixth street. New York Gty.
IMPLICITY. although not Inex
pensive, will f o hand In hand
with the most elaborate Ori
ental effects this coming season, and
I am now going to describe two of
my "Simplicity gowns" ahown lu
the photograph!.
The Brat one I an evening gown
of white satin with drapery ot beau
tiful pervancbe color chiffon worked
to rhlnestones and bugles In a wheat
sheaf pattern. A drapery of chiffon
extend over the side of the corsage
and Is caught Into the waist from
which It drapes down side ot skirt
to the hem.
The note of coloring Is Introduced
hy a beautiful belt ot two shades
ot old roue and a spray of silk flow
ers In mauves, yellows and old rose
colorings la worn serosa the corsage.
The other "Simplicity" gown I for
afternoon wear. It la purple chiffon
and charmeuse. The corsage and
the top part of the aklrt are of chif
fon and chiffon is gauged around the
hip to keep tha skirt tight The
neck is finished with a soft lae
ruffle and Jabot held In place by
tiny blue Bower-like rosettes whlla
a beautiful wreath ot silk flower
' la tucked Into the corsage band.
The aleevee are short and are
finished with a soft double rnfflo
of the same lae as at the neck.
The piquant effect ot a flower
adorned, fur trimmed muff aa car
ried with an arenlng gown.wlll
prove auch a valuable addition
that I hope beforo very long It will
become an accepted fact and
fashion. . .
For ! have made a muff to match
or rather to contrast wun, ana h
any rat to complete oacp one ot
. ..-,...,..(
SimpU
Evenbs
Gown of
Whit
Satin
' with
Drapery
of Chiffon
Designed,
by
"Lucae" i
for 1
Early
Spring.
the score of evening gowns. While
a regarda the accompanying head
gear I have given prominence to
closely awathed turbans, the "mall
head" being tlll my Ideal, and
being still my ideal, and being, fur
being, furthermore, I am glad to
aay, already proclaimed aa the cor
rect coiffure tor th coming aeasoa.
I have been able In thest gowna .
to revel in the suitably blended
oolor effect, which aa you know
1 adore, special scop -for uch
chem being afforded by the softly
awathed draperies ot chiffon and
nlnon, which are now undoubtedly
takl. the place of the scantier and
shorter skirt. One dress, primar
ily ot charmeuse. with sundry veil
ing of nlnon, bring together Into
one (utt what other people have
kindly proclaimed as beautiful to a
degree tha deep purple bloom ot
grapes; the warm, reddish brown
and lighter turning tint of Autmnn
foliage; that other elusive tint,
"dregs of wine," which combines
several of these same shade in on
slmost Indescrlbibl but lovely
whole; there being finally intro
duced a flush of roe and a slim
mer of gold.
Then another dress. Into which a
tall, alender alip of a girl looks,
exquisite, has almost flchu-Uk fold
ot delicate asaiea yellow chiffon,
edged with a crystal snd paste em
broidery drawn about tb shoulder
Into a central device of biasing
diamonds and cabochoa pearls,
fringed with crystals fr- the deep
er orange tints for background, net
matching the chiffon then form
th conag and tha upper part ot
' th skirt, whoso close moulding to
the figure la made more notable by
it underlining with flesh pink. It
oft transparency being broldered
Into brlghtnesa by a device ot cry
. lal opalescent bead and bugle and
.. Just a few diamonds with connects
ing traceries of orange-hued silk.
High up nnder the bust there Is
drawn a band of emerald green and
sliver tissue, which. In fact, la fold
ed Into a atrange Egyptian-looking
ornament, and then to divide, tha
broldered net from the trailing skirt
draperies ot atalea pink and amber
yellow and orange chiffon, there la
an enolrollng band of chinchilla,
which 1 dra-va low down at the
right aide, and there held In place
by another of those shining and
crystal fringed ornaments, Tha
Oriental auggestlon ot this gowa
Is emphasised by the small, closely
fitting turban ot vivid green and aM--ver
tissue, with msny strings of
orystals and diamond looped low
down over the ears, while th old
Egyptian dignity la most plquantly
contrasted with the eminently Paris
ian addition of a great muff ot th
gauged green tissues, banded with
chinchilla fur. These are my two
special favorite out ot th twenty.
I think, though, I like the effect,
too, ot th gown ot old rose and
gold velvet Just swathed about the
ngur below a softness of fiesh-col-ored
chiffon and worn with an old
rose turban, which Is surmounted
by a purple ostrich feather, this
being the color, too, of th great
muff of gauged tulle, on which
handings of silver shine out An
rther and deeper pink more of the
,-eranlum variety, Is patterned with
shadowy leaves of silver snd gold,
snd banded about the waist with
"dead" mauve shadings, the turban
being ot sliver tissue with a spun
glass aigrette fastened directly In
front, and the muff ot the same
shimmering fabric set off by bor
dering ot dark skunk fur, and fur
ther adorned with a trail ot anem
one pink, purple and mauve
held up with a queer little bow In '
"dead" mauve and turquoise shade.
Other gowna are out In ahades
which range from, faintest szalea
yellow to golden cinnamon and
glorious flame, and every one of
them, you may be interested to
know, la made with a distinct train,
while whether their fabric be metal-.
lie tissue or transparent nlnon, they
ahow some suggestion of an upward
draping, or actual opening at one
aide.
Another atag gown made In this
ease tor Miss Enid Leslie debut
at th 'rlnce ot Wales which
gives you a hint of. my Inten
tions, snd, Indeed, my actual crea
tions, for the coming season Is a
dainty and delicate affair of while
nlnon underlined with flesh pink
and outwardly trimmed, too, with
pioot ribbon and tiny beads la the
same faintly pink shading. And
then to complete It there Is on of
the new taffeta coat, this, too, be
ing ot pal pink and having all
th pretty new curve followed l by
a trimming of gauged and corded
Ilk.
Then th leghorn hat la ot tha
picturesque vsrlety, which accords
well with such a gown. Its broad
brim is lined wHh lavender blue,
while the strings of periwinkle
satin are at tint looped round
bunches of (haded roses, and then
threaded through the brim, bo that
their contrast of color may be em
phasised, and that they may tall
far down over both pink coat and
white aklrt.
How do you Ilk the scheme? In
deed I hope that It may appeal to
yon, for yon may hare my word for
It that this Is th particular form of
attire In which yoa will have to ap
pear this Bummer It yoa want to be
In th fashion. Lingerie and muslin
dresses are to be more favored than
ever always supposing that the
clerk of tha weather doesnt upset
all Dame Fashion' well laid plana
by hia unexpected and undesired
severity. But to distinguish thee
white dresses from th production
of. last year there wil be many sig
nificant but small changes, and,
most Important and noticeable of
all, the Invaluable addition ot either
a coat or scurf of taffeta. Th
new atlk scarf, I must tell you, now,
haa gained In slxs and ahapeline,
and proclaima itself as a close con
nection ot the pelerine, which la laid
over the shoulder so that It covers
the sleeves to the elbow, the long
end then falling almost to tbe
feet, while the deep cap with point
at th back la of almoet equal ex
tent. A thu worn the perelln "
scarf la a sufficiently dlgnffied wrap
for the dowager, but you have only'
to take those long scsrf nds,
twist them about- the waist and
knot them at tha left side and bey,
presto! you have tbe most plquant
ly pretty addition for the white mus
' 11a frock of "sweet seventeen.'
a Mali? TBee Couldn't Vote-But a Human Female Should
One of -Uxcfo'i,- Simplicity
Gowns for Afternoon Wear.
It Is of Purple Chiffon
and Charmeuse.
By Prof. Gustav Fischer. ,
(Of Jena University, Oermsny.)
THAT : tbe , male bee abould
, under- no circumstances bar
a vote In an ant community
has been proven . by recent tab
' oratory experimentation npon the '
Farmers! The Razor Is
Better Than the Spade!
I
F there be any belief thoroughly
established in the mind ot th
farmer It Is that ."cultivation"
1 necessary tor growing crops. It
the plsnts are to thrive, the earth
about their root must be dug up
at Intervals.
Recent experiments of the De
partment of Agriculture, however,
appear to ahow there is nothing In
this Idea at all Corn, for instance,
grows Juet ss well and bears quit
as many and as big ears when th
arth about It root Is left alone.
But It 1 necessary, ot coarse, to
keep down the weeds. And Just,
aero lies th whole secret of th
business. ' Cultivation destroys tho
weeds which la why it helps tb
corn or other crop. The stirriaaj up
tfthe soil his nothing to do with it
And V destruction ot weeds ts ac
complished most economically, not
by pulling them ap, hot by hvng
' them oft close to the ground.
; When we-ds are treated la this
fashion, and kept cut down, they to
. sot thrive.' On the contrary, they
soon die. - In this respect they dif
fer from laws, grass, which grows
better and thicker with rrequeni
close cutting. Whence It comes
sbout that a well-clipped town
frees itself ot weeds after a while.
' It follow that, as a' substitute
tor cultivation, the shaving ot the
soil with 'sharp hoes Is a method
of treatment likely to bo adopted.
But the prospect Is thst before very
long shaving machines, specially -constructed
for the purpose, win be
made and sold, enabling th farmer
. arith a minimum of labor to go over
hia toad with, some form ot ap
paratus that will be in effect a con
geries of giant raiors on 'heels. .
- This theory has heea put to the
test with an Improvised machine"
constructed along these lines and
the results obtained fully Justified
the expectations of the Govern
ment's agricultural experta
- Perhaps tho chief obstacle tooths
' Introduction of this new method,
however, will be the conservative
ness of tho average, farmer who,
, having been brought ap. to the use
of the spader-will hesitate to aban
don It for th new-fangled razor,
notwithstanding tb Government's
enthoalasUo- promises. -
brains of the three types -t bees
the female, tbe male and tbe neutral,
'or worker.' Both heea and ants
have recognized this fact by deprlv-
. tng the male ot any but a biological
part In their activities.
Tha brain of the male be la a .
trifle larger than that of tha femal
or the worker, but it Is Immensely
less developed snd lacks entirely
certain Important features present '
In the others. The ssme Is true of
the ant
The bees sad anU carry on their
activities by . titsfinet; tbe human
being by reason. '
Here you see how tho brains ot
the three kinds of bees compare to
each, other. Beneath them I a -sum
brain. No one, not even tbe
keenest scientist, could tell by look
ing at this brain, by weighing H or
measuring it or dissecting It,
whether it Is th brain of a human
male or a human female. He might
guess, because, as a rule, a man's
brain la slightly heavier than a
woman'a and averages a few dif
ferent slight measurement. Tbe
differences are not, however, either
eoiutmt or proven, and so, while
the clever scientist might say he
thought this a man' brain or a
too' brain, he couldn't be sure
which it really was.
On tho other hand, tbe difference
between the " brains ot tbe three
kinds of bees is apparent at once.
" It would seem, then, that for the
working of instinct developed to its
highest power, different kinds ot
.brains are needed. But for the
working of the higher faculty of
reason, only one kind of brain to
necessary. Instinct I only perhaps
highly organized habit; -reason Is
-volition. The brains of the three
. kinds ot ants are h!ljly developed
but rigid machines which can only
produce Just th kind ot activity tor
which they are built They are
like a stocking machine, aay, which
can only produce a certain kind ot
stockings, but not women' wrap,
Tbe brain ot man, oa th other
hand, la a machine ot great flexi
bility which can create anything. A
male ant therefore (houldn't vot
because his brain clearly shows It
Is not made for the activities car
ried on by the female and working
ants who do have to look alter th .
good of tbe community.
, But on tbe other hand, the wom
an'a brain shows that it to able to
do any work the man'a brain can do.
The difficulty of etudying so very
small a structure and following each
nerve may be appreciated by any
one who will catch a be and Juat
look at that little brain Inside ot
the head. I started by making a
aerie of sections of the brains of
puppae bees Just ready to fly and
by making plaster easts ot their
brains. The dlagrama ahow how
successful the work was.
Tbe three orders ot Individuals
among ants and bees have differ
ent duties to perform, snd because
tbey require the development of
different instinct for tbe perform
snce of this work, different parts
of the brain are more fully devel-
oped In each, for Its special work.
The instincts act through certain
nerve-chords or bundles of chords
running up to the brain, and there
fore, aa these chorda and their cen
tre are developed for the activi
ties required ot male, female and
worker, tbe brains differ consider
ably. Tbe brain ot the drone (male)
has a large seeing flap, correspond'
ing to the large eye. The drones
requjr good eight to follow tha
flight of th..ueen. Th eU'B
fla? (Lobus olfaetonusi
oticeably smaller In tho ron
than la tho worker, but to pot so
highly dsvaloped within, for as the
drone take to part In th ther-
Ing of food and ear of th young,
a does 'sot require th smelling
ens so much.
In th workers, the eelng-flap la
nntiecabiv smaller than In th
drone, yet somewhat larger than
la th queen. Th workers aireci Tk( Lmrmr h.t , ,t,mtt Br.ia .(
th.ir etch hv vision, so they re- ac
quire tight more then tb queen,
which, ss to well known, after breed
ing remains in the hive, until after
the' swarm leaves, when she. is
guided by the worker. Th smell-Ing-flap
of the workers to much
larger than the Queen's, because the
workers require a highly developed
sense of smell for their multifarious
labors, while th queen has nothing TSe Si
to do with the gathering ot food.
building of the comb or care of tbe
brood.
Tbe so-cslled Fungoid-shaped
Bodies, in which the chords from
all parts ot the brain meet, are de
cidedly larger in tbe workers than
In the queen. If It be held that
tbe Fungoid shaped Bodies are the
seat of the intellect ot insects, it Tk Middle- siar.
Is appreciable that the worker-bee.
which shows the greatest thinking
power, possesses this . organ In
well developed form.
, But it Is no less eertaln that
these fungoid-shaped bodies are not
merely the seat ot thought but also
th centre ot highly complicated
instincts. This follows also from a
consideration of the drones, to
which tbe fungoid-shaped bodies are
larger than in th queen, and almost
ss large aa In th workers. Even
though there sre differences m tbe
'structure which bespeak a relative- T
at- -.- g-ji'-'!sgi
nailer hat rBlx Brala ! tk
Kraule Bee.
Ularkl Ckilti
rkrr'a strata.
rata TW Sow ta the
ly higher development of these im
portant centres In th workers, we
most draw tb eoacluilon that th
fungold-ahapei bodies are not ex
clusively the organs of Intellect' but
that Instincts are th real basis, or
they would not be so highly devel
oped la the stapld drones. -
Similar results have been secured
from the study ot the brains ot
ants, conducted first by Marlon
Sweet and then (after hit death)
by H. Pletschker.
Forel has held that tbe fungoid
shaped bodies were altogether lack
ing in tbe males, but Pletschker
found them, although smaller than
in queena and workeas.
The brains ot the males ot th
ants. Just as In the drones, are
notable for their large seeing flaps,
but have small smelling flaps. In
the brains of female ants the see-ing-flaps
sre not so large aa in tbe
male, but larger than la the work
era It la well known that the
last have no wings, and conse
quently, tbe need for vision ia of
far less importance for them than
tor those Insects that have wings.
In the worker-ants the smelling
flap to especially large, for sensa
tions ot smell sre most important
to them for the find'ng ot their way
and for the performance of their
many duties In th nest In the
worker-ants tho fungoid-shaped
bodies are much larger and more
highly developed than ia th fe
male. It to demonstrated hy the study
ot the brains ot the bees and snts
that the different instinct ot tbe
three different classes sre marked
In the brain construction of suk
class. Herein to an addition -J proof
that instinct Is absolut' r ind
ent upon the inherited t . a .i Ui
nerve-system.