The Omaha Sunday Bee I
nePaoe
Copyright. 191Z, by Amertcsn-Examiner. Craat Britain Bights Reservsd.
IA J
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A Spring Hat with the New Curled Brim,
A Remarkable Gown Combination
And Her New Coiffure Is Low and Simple
C s&es
LADY DUFF-CORDON, the hmous "Lucile" of London, and fore
most oca lor of fuhioes in the world, writes etch week the fashion
article for this newspaper, presenting tO thai is newest aid beat in
style for welWresstd women.
Lady Daff-Gordoo'i new Paris establishment bring ber into close touch
with that centra of fashion.
Lady. Duff -Gordon's American otabJuhmeat is at No. 17 West
Thirty-sixth street. New York Gty.
By Lady Daff-Cordon ("Lucile")
ABT BMLYS. the charming and
1 1 capable little comedienne who has
toads herself a pleasing sensation
oa both skies of. the Atlantic baa cele
brate her return to Parte by selecting
her outfit of sew Spring costumes, baU
and other arriclee of apparel, lacking
which she wonM not be "Qabr."-
The peotogrnpha reproduced herewith
mar inspire y.eu critic ism ttrat Mil.
Gaby's taste runs a trifle to extremes. Yet
there are point about ber ew sprint
outfit' that tie errs ooamendailoav Tba
Gaby hat shown her will bar general
favorite this 8pn. It has the high,
flower-pot crown which this aetresa haa
made her own particular style; the curved,
turned-up brim la the newest Parislaa
town.
This brim la deeper at the back, and the
hat must be placed on the head so as to
hide the hair entlrel) except at the sides.
This Ttolet bat of hemp, with lighter sella
facing, haa the new feather duster ar
rangement of ebaded violet gaasowary
feathers. Needleae to say, tt la on of
those hats that ia exonedtngly expensive.
The gown portrayed here showa the)
latest treatment of the aplit skirt. It ia
of supple triolet velvet sad la apparently
a combination of the Mo.rea Aga and "Hob
ble" styles. Tba skirt la opened exactly la
1 the front almost to the waist Una. An
Inset of deeper violet velvet fella la tba
aplit. and the ever-popular buttons edge
can side of tbe skirt.
The stiff attempt at draft
err., shown as clesrty la this
picture, is tbe latest "wrta-
kl"' of tbe ftrla elcthett
mart. The Moyes Age eltetft
la' dlayIyw In what Big t
be" tstved as tba middfe"'
aretien' of flits very runs r
M aaatuma. Tha eraahsd wl'ntla nliM f
any eevs-rtty. Bnt quite th most unusual V
(nai4 l tha tahllar collar- W
A tsw wonths ago tble btbller effect wear
humr It) treat from a Ugh waistline. Mile.
Osby's neweet gowa shows It hanging
down the back. It atatti. from the upper
band of trimming on her bodice, runs ever
the shoulder and aadsi below her waist -line
la tact, at the exr was dower band of
the trimming. Only a slender, flat backed
woman eon Id manage tllia without appear--log
grotesque. .
Gone t the high et Iff re with which
Gaby familiarised ue during" her star
In New York. She reap pears In Paris with
a new coiffure, one wbl eh shows the shape
of her bead. It la hnr and eniy stlghtlr
waved; and the only deeoratroavle a Bar
row, jeweled band, a duplicate ef the one
whlsh Princess Patricia wean.
V
This week I am going to explain some ttm .l.
of the aorsltlee by which you eaa give a 7 TtJ? t
anggcstion of Spring smartness to your sww head, ansJ ia worn with a Princess
vrmtery eostumee at Use first sulUble and
sunshiny moments. For example, to some
or the aew tare, whoaa uata as "Shadow
Chanttlly will ! Ton some little Idea
ot Its soft and elusive lovetinaee, which
Is ia direct contrast, by tha way, te the
bold beauty of a new vet Hon of tbe "point
d vealse plat." which, a clever aad Inex
peaelve copy, ss it la. of the old style of
plat Venetian, to also assured of a vogua
during the coming season, xeore espeetelly
la a very uncommon and effective shads
of ochre.
Some race ouuonsn, too. where the
design la worked la Ivory toss ea a back
ground el rather coarse eora net, la. a
forthcoming and fascinating novelty, as
is also a bleeding of point d'eeprtt and
' Valiae bee, while aa ss the durable and
decorative aroaerle Aagtaise, M promisee
to he more varied and attractive than
ever.
There are. too, sores new lace collars,
by means of which these of you who may
he reelmed-or, what seems more likely,
compelled to atady mwaomy. may at
aasli cost get aa appearance of up-to-dateness
and costliness to an old theatre
eosr, as this of fur. or velvet, er satis,
Tata is mediate aee ia ae deterrent te
tbe later appear aaoe ot the pretty thia,
or a Ahoy chiffon wrap, or evea a 8 print
tailor-made, seeing that Fashion's favor
tt given to this latest ead largest lace eo
aw la one and all ot these different post-
"'u'is generally carried out la lace of the
aforemeationed flat Venetian variety, aad
as to Hs shape as always at the back at
great depth, and though tt may there farm
either a rouad or a point or a square.
Sometimes Its career Is cut short at the
shoulder line, hut other models are com
bined la front into small revere, while
ts ess or ail of its aepecta the collar
haa so much to recommend It that tt ia
a welcome arrival aad ia certala to be
come aa established and universal favor
ite. - I would aext chronicle (because I
aa still steering clear at extravagant
nodes and trying te help those of yo
who have to count the cost of your clothes
carefully) the latest version of that very
adaptable aad helpful garment, the tunic,
which, aa sold la separate and complete
ready-to-wear form, nas enahled so many
" woaiea to give a new lease of life aad love
liness to sa old er too familiar gowa.
Now It will help any of yea who are so
inclined to display the odd. or onesided
Sod ice, which is the fashion or tha
l real of the moment, this tunic be
ing entirely composed of pale ecrs-ttrted
hM as regards Us skirt, though at the
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bodies part tbe lace only drapee the right
side aad la there combined- Into a short,
closely-fitting sleeve;
The other side and sleeve consist of
a softness of black tulle, whose semi
transparency, I would point out, will be
of ail tbe more "alluring" effect If It be
alnon aad oharmeuae the sleeve being
underlined with fresh pink finished oS at
tbe elbow with a rosette of tulle clasped
in the centre with a paste buckle.
Some of the new tunica, which are thus
adorned, dlapense with sleevsa altogether,
leaving them to be euppliad by the uader
dress or stays and' Just carry over tbe
SBOuldsra a flchu-llk drapery of chiffon
or nloon, which will perhapa be first edged
pearls of wee allksa Pompadour rosea and
Mats
Gaby's choicest new Spring Hat, with the new curled -op hrin falling low at
tba back oaprey aad caasowarv feather plumes.
A Bouquet of Recipes-
PaT jeweled band.
scrolls ef beads, and tbea by a little bead
fringe, the earns scheme ot trimming being
repeated ea tbe apron-shaped sklru Last,
aad actually least, too, aa regarae Ita siae
here la the "Casaqae" tunic, with eeamlessly covered
klmoaa corsage, very high waist lias aad vary short
skirt pattern which ealy just covers the hips. The
vsrtoasly colored chiffon of which it Is made beiag
worked an over with a Valenciennes lace deiiga la ecru
and medallions or tbe new and effective Bpsonga em
broidery in white, a little fringe of grelottee again
combining tba white ecru tones very prettily.
Such a tunic wilt, of course, transform tba plainest
white or pastel-colored or black sarin slip Into quite a
amart tlolette, so I commend it to your special eoa-
A renaarkabla Sprbf gown Moyen Age and "hobble'
combination, the latest treatment of the split skirt of
violet velvet, with collar draped down tba back.
siderstloa and early choice.
Blouses in their turn still proclaim the popularity
and the prettlness ot varied effects- Paisley patterned
crepe de chines and shft silks being softened by a
filmy transparency of black er colored ninon, while
metallic net will just shimmer faintly through, first
a softness of mellow-toned lace and then a final veil
ing ot alnon, white broderie Aaglaise being another
fabric which la going to be much used ia eoajuactloa
and contrast with ninon. and not only tor blouse, hut
for entire dresses as welL.
Fighting the Tree Blight That
Costs Us $50,000,000 a Year
u
XLES3 science discovera a remedy, and it h
quickly applied, tba plague that has attacked
nearly every chestnut forest and grove la the
Eastern States, from Hsryland to Maine, will soon
cause that besutifut aad
useful tree to
eery a memory.
The germ ef this dis
ease haa beea dieoeveced,
hut aot its anti-serum, er
eay successful means ol
preventing Its spread.
The medium ef Infection
le tbe minute, gelatinoua
spore ot a fungus, which
hss such extraordinary vi
tality that It even ad
heres to and destroye
barkless chestaut fence
rails.
These sticky little seeds
of the death-dealing fua
f us are peculiarly adapt
ed to be carried from
oae tree to another oa
tbe feet ef Insects, sqntr
rele and birds and thaa
the Infection haa spread
ia the last fsw yeara to
nearly every chestnut
forest and grove east ef
the Alleghenye. it haa
ruined the beauty of For-
"l Map U. region mo affected ly the tree blivht
ash Use. hevtng already destroyed 10.0OS trees, ot
which U.00 were chestnuts.
As yet, exemptioa trem this blight la something
that money cannot buy forests oa great private es
tates, in spits ot all efforts, suffer as greatly aa de the
uncared-for groves of tmsll farmers, hearty all the
VXfctJT. V f v- s.rer J-VTTECTED
chestnut trees In Bronx Park are gone.
Probably the fine chestnut forests ot Southeastern
Pennsylvania and Central New Jersey show the worst
ravages of this disease. The situatioa la aa sertoa
thst Governor Tener, of Pennsylvania, has issued a
rail for a convention to
be held In the State Cap
itol at Harrishurg ea
February 10 aad 21 ot
this year to consider, the
important problem of lav
ing what healthy chest
nut uses remain.
A forest attacked by
this fungus growth is a
melancholy sight The
chestnuts mortsUy strick
en, or already dead, stand
out ghastly white among
their living eompaaioaa.
Close Inspection leavea
no doubt about tha cause.
The exterior appear
ances ef thta fungus first
ia numerous yellow paa
tulee oa the smooth bark
of the tree. Ia tha deep
cracks of the eldest bark
. It takes tbe form ot yel
low or orange lines. Later
the eotor turns to n much
deeper yellow aad finally -"
brewa of deepening
sadee. Wlthia tba pus
tules, the perithecta are
found closely clustered.
Within the nerithecia are the elongated sacs or aaci
containing the spores, always eight la number.
It is estimated that this tree blight during two yeara
has cost $100,009,000 In whole forests destroyed.
What Is the remedy It must noea he found, er tha
chestnut's career in this country ia ended.
A. ESCOFFIER
Chicken Gomboor Okra Soup.
THE following quantities are calculated, tor six
persons:
Pry one medium-sixed onion In two ounces of
butter, without letting it acquire any color. Add
ene-quarter of a pound ot fresh lean bsoon, or
raw haa cut Into medium sized dice; fry for a
few minutes and add about one pound of boned
chicken meat cut into large dice. Let these In
gredients stiffen well; take care to atlr fairly
often and moisten with two quarto ot white
chicken consomme. Boll and set to cook gently
for twenty or twenty-five minutes with lid on.
Ndw, add about ose-batf pound of peeled gombo
eat ta coarse slices, aad three or four medium
sixed tomatoes peeled, chopped up and with their
teeda reaaoved. When tha gombos are well
cooked, carefully remove all grease from tha
preparation. Test the seasoning, aad If desired
i4d a fsw drops of Worcestershire cauce.
Garnish the soup with two or three tabltspooa
tuls ot plainly cooked rice.
This is a very dellcioua but expensive soup.
Compote of Pigeons a la Bour
geoise. TAKE two pigeons, cleaned, singed snd tie
up with the feet turned In; five ounces of
lean bacon, cut ia large aquares; two soupspooa
fula ef butter or lard; one Urge aoupspooaful of
flour, a glass of dry white wine, a glass of hot
water, twenty small onions, twenty mall mush
rooms, a "bouquet garni" of parsley, a bay leaf
and a sprig ot thyme, the whole tied together;
salt and pepper.
Melt the butter aad the lard in a saucepsn.
Add ths bacon, cook It for n few minutes until it
Is slightly browned; then put It oa a plate and
lay It aside. Browa ths onions and tha mush
rooms In the even and put them aside also oa a
plats.
Put in the same saucepan the pigeons, aad let
theax cook la the butter at a geatie fire; sprinkle
these with flour, rolling them well In it, aad put
la white wine aad hot water nearly up to the
top of the pigeons. Boil tor ten to twenty min
utes: sdd the salt, pepper and the "bouquet '
gsrni." then put tbe saucepan on the corner of
the fire.
When the pigeons are half cooked, add tha
. oaJoaa and tbe mushrooms.
At the moment of serving drain the pigeons
and nnstring them. Arrange them oa the dish,
with the dressing around them; skim the ssuco
snd pour tt through a fine strainer ever the
pigeons.
Fine Open-Work Apple Pie
THIS kind of pie, called a "flau" in French, la
open an top. with crust underneath.
Cut into quarters a doxen applea (pippins by
preference), weighing about two pounds. Peel
them, slice them, put then in a rather wide
No. 22 of "Tho
Fine Art of
French Cooking,!
saucepan with a pound and throe-quarters ot
fresh butter, several tablespooaTula ot hot water
aad seven ounces of sugar. Shake up the applet
from time to time to eecure an even cooking.
The applea being cooked, add four tables poo a
fuls of apricot preserve.
Fill the bottom ot oae or two circular pie
molds with One pasta. Fill the bottom with the
prepared applea. Even the surface with the
blade of a knife. Cook la the oven. When tha
cooking la finished sprinkle the surface of tha
tart with powdered sugar. Caramel the sugar
either by cooking or by passing a red-hot Iron
near tha surface.
Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts.
FOR a turkey ot six pounds take one aad a halt
pounds of sausage meat and two pounds of
chestnuts. Split the sheila ot the chestnuts and
soak them for several nlnutea la very hot fat
Then skin then quickly and put them la aauce
paa with a good quantity of ordinary broth, or
simply hot water. Keep tha chestnuts as whole
as possible. When they are cooked, drain there
. and mix them la with the sausage meat With
this mixture stuff the turkey, which you must
take care to clean well, and season the Inside
with salt and pepper. When the turkey Is well
stuffed, tie It up and cover It with strips of cook
ing bscoa. Tia this bsooa on, and set tbe tur
key to roast in the oven, taking care to have a
moderate beat Baste It frequently during the
cooking. W hen It la cooked to a turn, aerv it.
accompanied by its own gravy, ia a sauce boat,
Thia gravy ahould have a little fat
Soupe Aux Poireaux, or Leek Soup,
P IN ELY mince the white of four medium eised
leeka. Put this into a stew pan with oae
ouace ef butter and stew gutty for , qarur
of aa hour. Tbea add three atedium alsed quar
tered potatoes cut into disca (roundels) tbe thick
ness of ¢ pieces. Uoistea with one ptai
of white consomme. Add the aeceeaary Quantity
of salt and set to cook gently.
iWh"7 bout to rT flBl the soup with one
pint ot boiled milk, and one and one-half ounces
of butter: pour it into the soup-tureen aad add
twelve small bread dice tried ia butter
Asparagus and Its Sauces.
A 8PARAGCS should h u, .v
quickly washed, tied Into faggot and
cooked In plenty ot salted water. It is equally
good hot or cold. Ia ease you wish to aerve it
cold, a good slmpls vinaigrette sauce already de
scribed may he eerved with it
A favorite sauce to serve with hot asparagus
Is -Sauce Hollandaise.- A simple wsy of Tre
paring this sauca is as follow,: Boll down a
amsll glass ot vinegar with aa much water and
a pinch of salt Tbea reawv to tbe corner ef
the fire and throw to four yolks of eggs. Beat
up vigorously to mix the yolks thoroughly. Thea
thtekea with about barf a pound of melted but
ter, dropping ta from time to time a drop ol
vinegar Keep the sauce la a warm condition
during the latter part of thia operation.
i
