Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, February 11, 1912, SOCIETY, Image 16

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    Wee Omaha SuNDAYSMMtemNE Pag
Copyright, IMS. by Amerlcn-Exnilnsr. - Great Britain Right Rwrril
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How She
Here Is a Row of Gertrude Bryan's Valentines Drawn Especially by Her for This Newspaper. ch Figure Shows Just
Thinks That Particular Man Ought to Dress, it you-.look just -ikc nay m uw uu wuircss nai way ,
She Might Consider. YUU as n&ti vaicnunc.
Miu Gertrude Bryan at Her Every-Day Self.
niy husband shall not be cn cseur
But II pe w
N the-first place min't dress is
aU wrong. 1 should like to form
a league for the Sartorial Im
provement- of Man. I've worn
trousers for torn monthi now as
Boy Blue, and 1 know Jut how I d
drew my husband.
All men look alike to me In even
ing clothe. Mot men look alike In
any clothe. When I look out at
the audience every night I am
filled with wonder. In the mane a
man audience looks like one huge
billboard mounted on black itllta, a
streak of white amidships and sur
mounted with an air of pleased
complacency. Men are the Inven
tors, the creators, the great original
geniuses of the world why. then,
don't they Jnvent something original
and pleasing for their raiment, as
women do. I know why, because
men are really such coward.
Wearing breeches 'changes a
woman's outlook. What do 1 study
nowadays as I walk .about town?
Why, the haberdashers' windows. I
pass the shops devoted to fluffy,
ruffly things and sure at men's
shirts and waistcoats. , 1 always
wanted to be a boy; I'm sorry I'm
not one in reality. But 1 do mls
the lovely colors, the satins, the
laces, the distinctiveness of femini
nity and 1 can't see a reason why.
they shouldn't be incorporated In
men's wardrobe. - I knew Jut how
J shall dress HIM MM 8 my hus
band when I, set HIM. i , .i .
I hope and pray, of course, that .
, ' T .1 Li I
. . . . y J ' 4 '
MiM Bryaa't Sketch of D.ncrag Mm U
-. - T Dancing Man. Shoe. :
let him wear plalnmneo smr. ...
hall wear Jabot fronts, lacy one
for evening, lawn ones tor after
noon. If, on the contrary, he has
a pouter rieon effect and slender
legs. 1 shall have him wear Ml a .
down the outilde seams of his
trousers. This drewing of the leg
Is of vital Importance to the man
with the pouter pigeon front 11
counter balances the upper bulwarka.
A pleasant variation can be given to
the frill by colore. 1 hould lay It
down as a general rule that men
should use the same colors for their
clothes as well dressed women ot
the same toniplexloiMi and approx
imately the same build do. Df
course, a man by reason of bis dif
ferent ehaiied garments en 09
thing differently. If my husband
were bowlegged I ahould, for ex
.ample, iblt that he aear very
wide Dutch trousers, as I have
1 sketched them here. He could It
' he were so minded decorate the
whole leg with flounces of various
colored silks. It would be striking
; on him, but bad tat perhaps for a
woman. ' '
' K, on the other hand, my husband
were tall, lanky, with the straw
cow lick and a noticeable Adam a
apple would I let him drea himself In
-the vertical striped ult, low eollar:
and pointed yellow leather boots that .
that specie ususlly affectsT In-
.deed, no. He should wear at least a
" . modified high ruft .
t i t n e gentlemen
wore them In Queen ,
. Elisabeth's time
and they were vast-1
' ly becoming." All
. his garment
should be fluffy
' and loose, almoet,
, Oriental. and of
rich color He
should wear a ban
desn it I could
make him. and at
least a modi 0 ca
tion of the tur-
t A LL men look alike to me," said little
r Gertrude Bryan, the boy-prl of "Lit
tle Boy Blue." "When L get married, HE'S
got to look different" t .
"Face and figure?" we aaked. '
"Oh, dear, no! 'CLOTHES!" laid Mias
"How would you dresi men to make them
look different, and especially how would you
dress HIM?" we asked.
"I'll write it and draw it for you," said she.
Here it is:
The Prettiest
Girl-Boy on the
Stage Describes Her
Ideal Fashions for
Men, Helps You
with the Sketches Try 'Em if You
Dare, and Maybe Be Her Valentine
Suggested Bandeaux for Bald Head and Style (or a lain Neck, Drawn
by Certrud Bryan. ;
I want to remember the men I
ban. ' I am perfectly serious. I may
be revolutionary but please remem
ber that every style I auggeat has
been at one time or other a mascu
line style, and who can say I am not
Like woman, he ahould eeek to
hide hi weak point and bring out
his good. He should feign a virtue
it he have It not- Every shape,
every type ot man wear the same
.open face clothes at night, the same
shape In the daytime. At night, no
matter what hi figure la. he hides
behind the billboard -shirt, the. low
cut waUtcoat Funny, ian't It, that
meet, but how can I when tbey all
drea alike. But when I meet a
crowd of strange women I remem
ber them easily. I say to myself
- Mrs, 8 I the woman with the
yellow gown; Mr. B 1 the
one with the green, and so on.
How much easier, how much bet-
. ter, how much more sane it would
be it men would follow my idea and
.then I could ay. Mr. a 1 the
, man with the cerise frilled trousers;
Mr. B is the one with the gold-
. en saih and the pearl bandeau; Mr.
, R Ji the gentleman In the Vene-
In evening clothes women go In for tlan point Jabot and the Irlnged
the low cut bodice and man for the Dutch pantaloons.
tiow simple it wouia mu om buh
bow attractive! Here la a . tall,
narrow-chested man. On his coat,
instead of the modern lapels, I
wouM have a shawl collar edged
low cut waistcoat The more of his
shirt a man show tn oeuer
dressed he feels after aix o'clock
and and well ao does a woman or
something like that. " -..-.-
Do and Don' t Exercises F. christian miller
MIS is Ike' sixth of a strict of practical Ussons on
health. and grace tspecuilly prepared for tins tens
' paper by Miss F. Christian Miller-P. C:I., ihe famous
English health expert, . "
TAKE your exercises with dls- i
cretton.' . ,
1 Take only thoae for which ',
yon know. the. reason for taking
and which yoa know are needed by
and valuable to you. - -
1 Stop before yoa are tiled. The
. Conn Institute, which. I repre
' sent, has for It motto one word:
"Moderation. kWe do not believe
' in strenuooa exercise. Flve-mln-
j body, making it over as new. In a
reasonable time. 'Ten minutes daily
are la moat ease better, but fifteen ;
minute we believe to be- oaite .
enough in " seme iastaace toe
much. We do not believe in the .
vigoroua exerdae of the gynna- .
slum, because of the danger of their
overdoing them, especially for dell
cat young girl.
. To rolling, which is practised so
much In America by women who
wish to grow tbln, I am opposed,
because of it danger to the heart.
I'nleas your heart 1 la all respect
sound sad normal yon endanger
year health and menace your life
by rolling.
Tba exercise ot lying with feet
under a chair or the radiator or
any ether heavy article and slowly
raiting yourself into a sitting or
exuding position I consider too great
a strain upon the tendons .nod .
muscles, and liable to cause Internal ;
Injury. Neveraitempt it without
cuthioaa to atop your fall. I will not
alarm yotr by telling you all that
might happen from this exercise'
unduly or "bungllngly followed.
Take toy advice. Don't do it at all
I see signs ot hockey matches on
the billboards on your walls. That
is well enough for men, but It 1
toe violent tor women. It I a gam
that should be for all time barred
to women. ,
Hanging from suspended rings, a
favorite pursuit in gymnasiums, is
fraught with danger to wo me a.
Young girls are especial sufferers
from It. It throws moat ot the
weight of the body on the abdominal
region, causing pressurewpoa the
delicate organs. The slightest un
due pressure, even to slight, aa I
have before told you. as a finger
weight, always causes some degree
of congestion. And congestion is
always dan serous.
A goad exercise for almost evsry
ens Indeed, I will make no excep
tions is that of rising on th tip
to and slowly settling back again.
It must be don wslL. Thcr must
b no earelsesnee. If you rise
front heel to tipto and sett Is down
again from tiptoe to heal, doing
the with military precision and
regularity, counting thrss slowly
as yon rise and three as you sett!
back upon the htel, the extrcis
will prove a most valuable ens In
pel.'' ' -' , '
It may be truthfully aald that
evsry exercise which really stimu
late regular and safe deep breath
ing Is a good exercise. There la
no.mystsry about deep breathing.
It la only normal breathing den
more tlswly and with greater em
phasis. ' '
I do net believe In breathing from
th abdomen. It la sufficient for
health and for the right develop
ment of the figure to breathe from
th chest, but do this thoroughly,
weeping every cell clean.
But there la a preliminary which
seems so commonplace that I hetl-.
tote to repeat it, leet you Joke-seeking
Americans laugh at It. Never
theless, I am too earnest a teacher
to neglect my duty. It the cur
tain at your window were stiff
with dnst yon would not expect the
air that contrived to pas through
them to be pare. So if yon do
net keep your nasal passages tree
from ail obstructions the air yoa
take Into your lungs will be Im
pure, the blood will be Impoverished
and yon will become anaemic. A
great vocal teacher began his lec
ture to 'hi class by saying: "Dis
cover whether your air haft is clear
by the simple expedient ot blowing
rour nose. Do thin, not violently,
like a trumpet call, out gently and
easily blow down on nasal passage
and then (he other. In order to clear
them. Said he: The silly habit
of pinching the nostril together
and blowing by forced expulsion not
only tends to Inflame the delicate
lining of the nose, but often affects
the eardrum."
It was-this aam'e' authority'-on
vocalisation who gave these instruc
tion in deep breathing, the best I
havn ever followed. Though de
signed for singers, they are ot
equally great value to laymen,
- "Stand erect,' chest and chin ur
and with the hand en hip. Raise
the chest, but da this without In-haling.-
Yea will be inclined t
arch th back by stiffening th lum
ber muscle. ' Dent do 4t-
"Slowly Inhale through the nos
tril In flv short, separate, alien
dent whlarle inhalations, until th
lung r filled to their utmost ca
pacity, yet avoid the elightcst strain.
"Paus . for three mental counts
and then slowly sxhal while nun
tatty counting eight. - "
"Take another breath In the earns
way. end Increase th number of
count during exhalation by two,
making ten. Thie number can grid-.
rally be Increased until twenty or
even thirty counts are reached. But
top when you begin to grew dixzy." ,
When instructor tell yoa to ex- '
pand the cheat powerfully at the
start they do wrong, for yoa must
never force your chest outwards.
As constitution vary, and as no two
physical structures sr alike, 'con
sideration mast be shown the "na
tural drawing power of the lungs.
which differ in Individuals aa the
draughta of a large and email ahip.
Too must use your own judgment at
to the number and length ot the
"deep breaths you draw. The test
la whether the breathing reels fairly
natural and th effort is not unduly
with frlnxe. 1 should be careful to
choose color toharmonlz with hi
eye and hair.' A man with dark
blue eyes could wear the most rav
, lsbing blues and grays. A man
! with red hair could wear vivid pur-plea-
and greene. The fringe coo
turn would be mvlsblngly done la
rich purple velvet.
, The sash costume could be de
veloped In hundreds ot ways. Tears
ago, in the days of the blazer men
wore ahashes. X hey wear them la
Spain, in Mexico and in Carmen to
day. A very tall. Blender man might
wear a green velvet costume, the
fabrlo falling in soft fold. He could
. wear a red or gold sah wrapped
' many times around his walaL Hf
trouaer should flare widely at th
bottom like the old caballeros, and
- his cuffs should have the same wide
. flare. The effect ot sash, folds and
curves would be to soften hla lines
and make him. so distinctive. No
one could ever fall to recognize him
again. . ,
Vou begin to see the principal ot
my idea. The aash should never be
worn though by a man ot em boa-
, point. . , -
When I look at the poor necks of
the fat men I weep. It la all so
wickedly foolish. Behold them In
their high tight collars! Or in their
low, loose collar I They shoud never
wear collar. In my new styles
for men I have designed a charming
coatume for the fat necked man. It
ia the low cut combination coat and
waistcoat They are of a dignified
repression in color. Tbey are made
together and tbey are cut as low
as the Individual dare Then
' ahould be ripple upon ripple ot
- very narrow lace edging to th
- bodice and lace ahould fall heavily
- over the wrist, concealing the
pudgy hands. I personally prefer
black or blue velvet for tfala cos
tamo because both make all stoat
people look smaller.
The elongated, narrow man who
yearns ior op and down stripes and
- who- looks lankier than ever In
modem evening clothes ahould
adopt what I call the section cos
tume. Thi coatume 1 literally
made of lectione about two inches
deep going around the body in
, concentric rings. The coat start
with a fall of twenty rings In a cane
like eollar. very wide. The coat ia
one nerie of these tuck; they ran down hi.
wide cape-like effects at cuffs and bottom of
trousers. This costume developed m bull
blue or dark maroon WIU make him look
touter. Scalloping the edge of th tuck
will relieve the monotony and tend to cut
aa inch or two from his height. No man
should loo to be tore than six feet taiL
Do yoa think I am Joking? Let me as
sure yon I am not For the life of me I
-dont see why men should go uniformed
and not be able to dress Individually and
attractively. I should also havn men dress
according to their occupations, their pro
. fessloos. Of course those only while at
- their occupations.
There Is the problem of the bald-headed
man. Every bald-headed man looks alike
from the rear, and nothing ia ever done to
make the bald head ornamentaL What finer
setting could there be for the bandeaux than
the hairless dome? Ton never see ooe ban-
- dean suit like another, and they are so dis
tinctive. Mr. K might wear one ot
emerald velvet with rhlnestone clasps; Mr.
P might shine under a gold band with
deep clujtera of grape falling over hi
ear there ia a limit to their charm and
1 variety. If yoa think it impossible I pray
M - : ;,'-V'
III r "! ' "" "' '"" - x
1 ii
TV fmm. . " V fMere ev
e-r m
Mis Gertrude Bryan as Boy, Proving She Knows What She's
- Talking About.
' yoa look in your histories and see what won
derful bandeaux the gentlemen wore in
Nero's time. The bald head would then be
come a -thing of beauty, a glorious setting
- for fashion s art I also have in mind adap
tations ot the turban.
Again, all men's shoes look alike. Wo
men do not Must women have the call on
everything pretty? And it ia very discon
certing for a girl to find that at a dance the
haa carefully, smiled on men who do not
dance! The non-dancing men should be
allowed great latitude in their foot gear, but
all should be forced to wear long uncurled
point to their shoe. A girl could then tell
at a glance whether he was a wall-flower'
. or a floorwalker.
AU this and much more I have learned
from my acquired trousers. I hope it will
be enough to start yon men thinking and
yea women, too. Once again, believe me I
am not Joking. Man is about the only ani
mal on earth whose costume Is less attrac
tive than that of the female. He should
wake up.
in hie fringed trousers, his tucked, seal
toned and flounced coats and v:
low cut necks snd billowy laces Jewelled K"d el
bandeaux and silken shoes I see him cominx Trousers a Bow
Into being! Oh, happy, happy vision! Legged Man
Should Wear