Wee Omaha SuNDAYSMMtemNE Pag Copyright, IMS. by Amerlcn-Exnilnsr. - Great Britain Right Rwrril "y i X '-f -:y ' A f ;L J : s I How She Here Is a Row of Gertrude Bryan's Valentines Drawn Especially by Her for This Newspaper. ch Figure Shows Just Thinks That Particular Man Ought to Dress, it you-.look just -ikc nay m uw uu wuircss nai way , She Might Consider. YUU as n&ti vaicnunc. lowHDreHIM' i Miu Gertrude Bryan at Her Every-Day Self. By GERTRUDE BRYAN niy husband shall not be cn cseur But II pe w N the-first place min't dress is aU wrong. 1 should like to form a league for the Sartorial Im provement- of Man. I've worn trousers for torn monthi now as Boy Blue, and 1 know Jut how I d drew my husband. All men look alike to me In even ing clothe. Mot men look alike In any clothe. When I look out at the audience every night I am filled with wonder. In the mane a man audience looks like one huge billboard mounted on black itllta, a streak of white amidships and sur mounted with an air of pleased complacency. Men are the Inven tors, the creators, the great original geniuses of the world why. then, don't they Jnvent something original and pleasing for their raiment, as women do. I know why, because men are really such coward. Wearing breeches 'changes a woman's outlook. What do 1 study nowadays as I walk .about town? Why, the haberdashers' windows. I pass the shops devoted to fluffy, ruffly things and sure at men's shirts and waistcoats. , 1 always wanted to be a boy; I'm sorry I'm not one in reality. But 1 do mls the lovely colors, the satins, the laces, the distinctiveness of femini nity and 1 can't see a reason why. they shouldn't be incorporated In men's wardrobe. - I knew Jut how J shall dress HIM MM 8 my hus band when I, set HIM. i , .i . I hope and pray, of course, that . , ' T .1 Li I . . . . y J ' 4 ' MiM Bryaa't Sketch of D.ncrag Mm U -. - T Dancing Man. Shoe. : let him wear plalnmneo smr. ... hall wear Jabot fronts, lacy one for evening, lawn ones tor after noon. If, on the contrary, he has a pouter rieon effect and slender legs. 1 shall have him wear Ml a . down the outilde seams of his trousers. This drewing of the leg Is of vital Importance to the man with the pouter pigeon front 11 counter balances the upper bulwarka. A pleasant variation can be given to the frill by colore. 1 hould lay It down as a general rule that men should use the same colors for their clothes as well dressed women ot the same toniplexloiMi and approx imately the same build do. Df course, a man by reason of bis dif ferent ehaiied garments en 09 thing differently. If my husband were bowlegged I ahould, for ex .ample, iblt that he aear very wide Dutch trousers, as I have 1 sketched them here. He could It ' he were so minded decorate the whole leg with flounces of various colored silks. It would be striking ; on him, but bad tat perhaps for a woman. ' ' ' K, on the other hand, my husband were tall, lanky, with the straw cow lick and a noticeable Adam a apple would I let him drea himself In -the vertical striped ult, low eollar: and pointed yellow leather boots that . that specie ususlly affectsT In- .deed, no. He should wear at least a " . modified high ruft . t i t n e gentlemen wore them In Queen , . Elisabeth's time and they were vast-1 ' ly becoming." All . his garment should be fluffy ' and loose, almoet, , Oriental. and of rich color He should wear a ban desn it I could make him. and at least a modi 0 ca tion of the tur- t A LL men look alike to me," said little r Gertrude Bryan, the boy-prl of "Lit tle Boy Blue." "When L get married, HE'S got to look different" t . "Face and figure?" we aaked. ' "Oh, dear, no! 'CLOTHES!" laid Mias Bryan. "How would you dresi men to make them look different, and especially how would you dress HIM?" we asked. "I'll write it and draw it for you," said she. Here it is: The Prettiest Girl-Boy on the Stage Describes Her Ideal Fashions for Men, Helps You with the Sketches Try 'Em if You Dare, and Maybe Be Her Valentine Suggested Bandeaux for Bald Head and Style (or a lain Neck, Drawn by Certrud Bryan. ; I want to remember the men I ban. ' I am perfectly serious. I may be revolutionary but please remem ber that every style I auggeat has been at one time or other a mascu line style, and who can say I am not right? Like woman, he ahould eeek to hide hi weak point and bring out his good. He should feign a virtue it he have It not- Every shape, every type ot man wear the same .open face clothes at night, the same shape In the daytime. At night, no matter what hi figure la. he hides behind the billboard -shirt, the. low cut waUtcoat Funny, ian't It, that meet, but how can I when tbey all drea alike. But when I meet a crowd of strange women I remem ber them easily. I say to myself - Mrs, 8 I the woman with the yellow gown; Mr. B 1 the one with the green, and so on. How much easier, how much bet- . ter, how much more sane it would be it men would follow my idea and .then I could ay. Mr. a 1 the , man with the cerise frilled trousers; Mr. B is the one with the gold- . en saih and the pearl bandeau; Mr. , R Ji the gentleman In the Vene- In evening clothes women go In for tlan point Jabot and the Irlnged the low cut bodice and man for the Dutch pantaloons. tiow simple it wouia mu om buh bow attractive! Here la a . tall, narrow-chested man. On his coat, instead of the modern lapels, I wouM have a shawl collar edged low cut waistcoat The more of his shirt a man show tn oeuer dressed he feels after aix o'clock and and well ao does a woman or something like that. " -..-.- Do and Don' t Exercises F. christian miller MIS is Ike' sixth of a strict of practical Ussons on health. and grace tspecuilly prepared for tins tens ' paper by Miss F. Christian Miller-P. C:I., ihe famous English health expert, . " TAKE your exercises with dls- i cretton.' . , 1 Take only thoae for which ', yon know. the. reason for taking and which yoa know are needed by and valuable to you. - - 1 Stop before yoa are tiled. The . Conn Institute, which. I repre ' sent, has for It motto one word: "Moderation. kWe do not believe ' in strenuooa exercise. Flve-mln- j body, making it over as new. In a reasonable time. 'Ten minutes daily are la moat ease better, but fifteen ; minute we believe to be- oaite . enough in " seme iastaace toe much. We do not believe in the . vigoroua exerdae of the gynna- . slum, because of the danger of their overdoing them, especially for dell cat young girl. . To rolling, which is practised so much In America by women who wish to grow tbln, I am opposed, because of it danger to the heart. I'nleas your heart 1 la all respect sound sad normal yon endanger year health and menace your life by rolling. Tba exercise ot lying with feet under a chair or the radiator or any ether heavy article and slowly raiting yourself into a sitting or exuding position I consider too great a strain upon the tendons .nod . muscles, and liable to cause Internal ; Injury. Neveraitempt it without cuthioaa to atop your fall. I will not alarm yotr by telling you all that might happen from this exercise' unduly or "bungllngly followed. Take toy advice. Don't do it at all I see signs ot hockey matches on the billboards on your walls. That is well enough for men, but It 1 toe violent tor women. It I a gam that should be for all time barred to women. , Hanging from suspended rings, a favorite pursuit in gymnasiums, is fraught with danger to wo me a. Young girls are especial sufferers from It. It throws moat ot the weight of the body on the abdominal region, causing pressurewpoa the delicate organs. The slightest un due pressure, even to slight, aa I have before told you. as a finger weight, always causes some degree of congestion. And congestion is always dan serous. A goad exercise for almost evsry ens Indeed, I will make no excep tions is that of rising on th tip to and slowly settling back again. It must be don wslL. Thcr must b no earelsesnee. If you rise front heel to tipto and sett Is down again from tiptoe to heal, doing the with military precision and regularity, counting thrss slowly as yon rise and three as you sett! back upon the htel, the extrcis will prove a most valuable ens In pel.'' ' -' , ' It may be truthfully aald that evsry exercise which really stimu late regular and safe deep breath ing Is a good exercise. There la no.mystsry about deep breathing. It la only normal breathing den more tlswly and with greater em phasis. ' ' I do net believe In breathing from th abdomen. It la sufficient for health and for the right develop ment of the figure to breathe from th chest, but do this thoroughly, weeping every cell clean. But there la a preliminary which seems so commonplace that I hetl-. tote to repeat it, leet you Joke-seeking Americans laugh at It. Never theless, I am too earnest a teacher to neglect my duty. It the cur tain at your window were stiff with dnst yon would not expect the air that contrived to pas through them to be pare. So if yon do net keep your nasal passages tree from ail obstructions the air yoa take Into your lungs will be Im pure, the blood will be Impoverished and yon will become anaemic. A great vocal teacher began his lec ture to 'hi class by saying: "Dis cover whether your air haft is clear by the simple expedient ot blowing rour nose. Do thin, not violently, like a trumpet call, out gently and easily blow down on nasal passage and then (he other. In order to clear them. Said he: The silly habit of pinching the nostril together and blowing by forced expulsion not only tends to Inflame the delicate lining of the nose, but often affects the eardrum." It was-this aam'e' authority'-on vocalisation who gave these instruc tion in deep breathing, the best I havn ever followed. Though de signed for singers, they are ot equally great value to laymen, - "Stand erect,' chest and chin ur and with the hand en hip. Raise the chest, but da this without In-haling.- Yea will be inclined t arch th back by stiffening th lum ber muscle. ' Dent do 4t- "Slowly Inhale through the nos tril In flv short, separate, alien dent whlarle inhalations, until th lung r filled to their utmost ca pacity, yet avoid the elightcst strain. "Paus . for three mental counts and then slowly sxhal while nun tatty counting eight. - " "Take another breath In the earns way. end Increase th number of count during exhalation by two, making ten. Thie number can grid-. rally be Increased until twenty or even thirty counts are reached. But top when you begin to grew dixzy." , When instructor tell yoa to ex- ' pand the cheat powerfully at the start they do wrong, for yoa must never force your chest outwards. As constitution vary, and as no two physical structures sr alike, 'con sideration mast be shown the "na tural drawing power of the lungs. which differ in Individuals aa the draughta of a large and email ahip. Too must use your own judgment at to the number and length ot the "deep breaths you draw. The test la whether the breathing reels fairly natural and th effort is not unduly wearying. with frlnxe. 1 should be careful to choose color toharmonlz with hi eye and hair.' A man with dark blue eyes could wear the most rav , lsbing blues and grays. A man ! with red hair could wear vivid pur-plea- and greene. The fringe coo turn would be mvlsblngly done la rich purple velvet. , The sash costume could be de veloped In hundreds ot ways. Tears ago, in the days of the blazer men wore ahashes. X hey wear them la Spain, in Mexico and in Carmen to day. A very tall. Blender man might wear a green velvet costume, the fabrlo falling in soft fold. He could . wear a red or gold sah wrapped ' many times around his walaL Hf trouaer should flare widely at th bottom like the old caballeros, and - his cuffs should have the same wide . flare. The effect ot sash, folds and curves would be to soften hla lines and make him. so distinctive. No one could ever fall to recognize him again. . , Vou begin to see the principal ot my idea. The aash should never be worn though by a man ot em boa- , point. . , - When I look at the poor necks of the fat men I weep. It la all so wickedly foolish. Behold them In their high tight collars! Or in their low, loose collar I They shoud never wear collar. In my new styles for men I have designed a charming coatume for the fat necked man. It ia the low cut combination coat and waistcoat They are of a dignified repression in color. Tbey are made together and tbey are cut as low as the Individual dare Then ' ahould be ripple upon ripple ot - very narrow lace edging to th - bodice and lace ahould fall heavily - over the wrist, concealing the pudgy hands. I personally prefer black or blue velvet for tfala cos tamo because both make all stoat people look smaller. The elongated, narrow man who yearns ior op and down stripes and - who- looks lankier than ever In modem evening clothes ahould adopt what I call the section cos tume. Thi coatume 1 literally made of lectione about two inches deep going around the body in , concentric rings. The coat start with a fall of twenty rings In a cane like eollar. very wide. The coat ia one nerie of these tuck; they ran down hi. wide cape-like effects at cuffs and bottom of trousers. This costume developed m bull blue or dark maroon WIU make him look touter. Scalloping the edge of th tuck will relieve the monotony and tend to cut aa inch or two from his height. No man should loo to be tore than six feet taiL Do yoa think I am Joking? Let me as sure yon I am not For the life of me I -dont see why men should go uniformed and not be able to dress Individually and attractively. I should also havn men dress according to their occupations, their pro . fessloos. Of course those only while at - their occupations. There Is the problem of the bald-headed man. Every bald-headed man looks alike from the rear, and nothing ia ever done to make the bald head ornamentaL What finer setting could there be for the bandeaux than the hairless dome? Ton never see ooe ban- - dean suit like another, and they are so dis tinctive. Mr. K might wear one ot emerald velvet with rhlnestone clasps; Mr. P might shine under a gold band with deep clujtera of grape falling over hi ear there ia a limit to their charm and 1 variety. If yoa think it impossible I pray M - : ;,'-V' III r "! ' "" "' '"" - x 1 ii TV fmm. . " V fMere ev e-r m Mis Gertrude Bryan as Boy, Proving She Knows What She's - Talking About. ' yoa look in your histories and see what won derful bandeaux the gentlemen wore in Nero's time. The bald head would then be come a -thing of beauty, a glorious setting - for fashion s art I also have in mind adap tations ot the turban. Again, all men's shoes look alike. Wo men do not Must women have the call on everything pretty? And it ia very discon certing for a girl to find that at a dance the haa carefully, smiled on men who do not dance! The non-dancing men should be allowed great latitude in their foot gear, but all should be forced to wear long uncurled point to their shoe. A girl could then tell at a glance whether he was a wall-flower' . or a floorwalker. AU this and much more I have learned from my acquired trousers. I hope it will be enough to start yon men thinking and yea women, too. Once again, believe me I am not Joking. Man is about the only ani mal on earth whose costume Is less attrac tive than that of the female. He should wake up. in hie fringed trousers, his tucked, seal toned and flounced coats and v: low cut necks snd billowy laces Jewelled K"d el bandeaux and silken shoes I see him cominx Trousers a Bow Into being! Oh, happy, happy vision! Legged Man Should Wear V J