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The Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Pag
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This Is All About These Dresses and
Some There Wasn't "Room
BY
Enough to Show."
LADY DUFF-GORDON.
r
"N sending you pictures and descriptions of
my newest creations for mid-Winter
wear, 1 bare endoavorod to select theme
-which I think will be of the most 'general
intercut. It U a hard tank, for there are so
many to choose from that I roally don't
know which to hold back, and yet there Isn't
room for all.
I am not at alt In eyuipathy with fixed
modes for specific seasons, but because the
towns and bata which I am sending you
will be worn within the next month or two I
have referred to them as mld Wlntor styles.
Unfortunately photographs can't give tho
color of the fabrics and the colors are a
important I 1
Let me first describe the "only" town. I call '
it the "only" sown because the fabrlo from
whicn It Is maue la the only piece of its kind
available. It was made specially for the
gown, which 1 apt to remain the "only" sown
of Its kind for a Ions time to come, although
the same design might well be worked out
with material of a similar character.
This fabric la a seal-brown satin brocaded
In purple velvet flowers. Nothing could pos
stbly be richer or more beautiful. The bodice
and fichu are Of dull gold tissue, a detail
which adds to the regal effect of the costume.
The petticoat is of purple chiffon bordered
with a band of dull gold lace, and the elab
orate brocaded trala Is edged with blue chlf
fon and gold lace. The train Is lined in a
beautiful shade of emerald green, a very suit
able foil for the purple in the gown. The
"only" gown would lend dignity and grace to
a queen, and I feel that it is perhaps one
of the most successful of my creations.
The old gold tone In the flchu is again car
ried to the neck in a necklace composed of
oil gold be. No other Jewels of any kind
are worn wltb this costume.
The simple headdress to be worn with the '
gown consist of three bands of narrow blue
ribbon arranged as seen in the picture, wltb
a small bunch of flowers at each side.
Perhaps the most useful of this seasont
millinery is the reversible fur hat. made a
any two kinds of short-hatrod fur, the bios
popular combinations being gray squirrel am
seal. The utility of this mode lies in tin
fact that the hat can be used ai two dlktlnci
hats, the gray crown with the aeal facing or
the seal crown with the gray facing.' The
small bunch of fruit is pinned to the hat and
snav be readily removed to reverse the hat.
The furs In this picture are an exquisite
set of white fox comprising stole and one
of the various latest enormous muffs. The
very latest word In white To this season will
be a gray tipped hair, of which the set shown
In the picture is a beautiful example.
While we are speaking of hats I want you
to take special notice of the very pretty crea
tion shown in the center of the page, which
Walking Suit Irt
the New Rust
Colored Ratine.
"Continental Hat,
with White and
Black Pom-poms.
(Copyright.1911,
by American-Journal-Examiner.)
has been named the "double-decker" because
of its shape. Its principal feature consists
of a superimposed crown of smoke-colored
inallne.
The hat proper In of black satin with
three email pleats running completely around
four Inches from the edge, above which Is a
band of fur. There are also three pleals
around the brim and a cluster of small light
velvet bows at the right side of the hat,
which tend to relieve it of all severity. It
Is a hat which will bo much worn this sea
son and one which lends luelf to all sorts
of modification In color and design. '
For simplicity in design and economy In a
walking suit nothing could be more desirable
than the one of which I am sending you a
picture. It la of rose ratine with mauve col
lar and cuffs. The blouse la of chiffon of the
same color. Although cut on rather severe
lines, It has a very smart effect and- will be
much seen on the boulevArdea.
The hat which goes with It Is of the contl.
nental variety. It is of soft felt turned up at
the aides and ornamented with large black
and white pom pons.
If your eye has been attracted by the fetch
ing Quaker afternoon gown shown at the left-
felt and fits close to the head like a Turkiah
fea. A wreath of tlnv knitted colored flow
ers around the brim relieves If of Its severity
of outline and also adds a touch of qunintness.
And now for a description of the munning ,
Cleopatra gown It is of purple chiffon em
broidered with thousands of rblnestones In .
various fclzes and tiny pearls over white satin.
A blue and purple sish round the waist ter
minating In a roBette and hanging down tho
left side gives the appropriate Oriental ef
fect and offsets the garish whiteness of the
white satin. The double necklace of rhine
stones and sapphires Is worn on the shoulder,
leaving the neck quite bare, and reaches to
the waist. An added touch is the single
strand of rblnestones wound around tiie coif
fure in two complete circles.
You will note that there Is no appreciable
widening of the skirts, for you see I never
permitted or perpetrated a "hobble" model of
the most accentuated sklmptness, and that In
the tailored costumes for walking wear they
are still short enough to clear the ground,
though lengthened and often fur-bordered-draperies
are a feature of some of the after
noon and reception gowns.
Aa to the evening dresses, they can how
PhotoS
WHITC'
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The "Quaker"
Gown and Hat,
Twe New
Creations.
(Copyright. 1911
by .American- .
Journal-
Examiner.)
tit
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Another "Luclle" "Quaker" Gown, with the New s
Fur-Trimmed "Quaker Bonnet."
(Copyright, 1911, by Amerlcan-Journal-Examlner.)
hand side of this page, you will be eager for
more particulars. It is of blue crepe de chine
with white embroidered muslin collar and-elbow-cuffs
and a very chio Jabot of white
satin edged with black. Doth bodice and
skirt have three box plaits and fasten at the
side with fifty buttons and buttonholes of
the same material. The belt Is of blue with
covered buckle. The long row of buttons Is
very decorative and the gown is really a
most effective one for afternoon wear.
The bat shown in the picture la made of
blue silk and mallne of the eame shade as
the gown and In shape Is very much like a
mop cap. There are two bands of skunk
around the hat, between which, running com
pletely around the hat. Is a band composed
of vertical pleats. There Is a bunch of pink
and blue flowers at the side. A frill of soft
white lace edges the brim and protrudes from '
underneath It
Perhaps the most unique model shown on
this page is the black horisontal striped vel
vet afternoon gown. The material Is abso
lutely new this season and Is very fetching.
In this design the wide border is carried down
the side with a band of velvet and embroi
dered buttons The black silk tett!coat is
mounted on chiffon and is revealed by the
opening at the riant side of the gown, which
extend nearly to the knee.
The beautifully-made collar is of net and
j oint de Venice, which Is let into the bodice.
The elbow sleeves are edged with black vel
vet. The hat worn with this gown Is a smart
new Quaker hat. It U made of black ailKy
"Cleopatra Gown" An Evening Dress Which Lady Duff-Gordon Thinks th
of Her Advance Fashions. (Copyright, 1911, by American-Journal-Exam!
e Great
Examiner.)
V
boast of distinct and decorative trains, which,
however, being made separately from the
. suoutr akiru, will interfere not at all with
the wearer's comfort cr her near neighbor's
convenience at theatre or dance, seeing that '
they can easily and instantaneously be picked
up and thrown over the arm, almost after the
fashion of a scarf.
I would also wish to add a word about th
most suitable footwear, for, to besin with the
new tailor costumes, boots with a psent
golosh and "uppers" of colored suede or cloth
to match the dress ar. quite the most suit
ably sirart ard becoming cmnletlon for tho
short-skirted costume and Infinitely preferable
to the shoes which t.o often combine two
colors and leathers and introduce a further
contrast in the stocking, and in not one of all
these tones follow the coloring of the skirt,
so that there is no' continuity and conse
quently no charm In the scheme.
' Sucli a boot as I have recommended, how
ever, secures the unbroken line which makes
for grace, while for any woman who cannot
afford to have a special pair of boots to match
each cofctume, the next best thing is to choose
the gray ante'ope tops, which will accommo
date themselves to amicable companionship
with almost any . colored costume. White
topped boots are undoubtedly smart, but only
when they are of altogether Immaculate
freshness and when, too, they encase the
slender feet and ankles to which alone any
form of fancy footwear la really becoming.
Then for afternoon gowns there can always
be recommended the glove soft and fitting
shoes of suede and antelope, finished off in
front with a tiny flat bow or else fastened up1
one side with wide silken lacings, their color
a soft gray or else a faithful repetition of the
dress tint. Of course, for evening purposes
the palest possible pink satin shoes and fiebb
colored silk stockings are in six out of every
dosen cases the most suitable and fascinating
wear, these same six cases and costumes be-
Ing those which further display semi-transparent
petticoats of flesh pink and Sower fes
tooned ninon and lace between the opening
oversklrt, this, as 1 need hardly remind you.
being a form of skirt which I have favored
for several seasons, and which, I fear, is re
sponsible for these latest developments.
But, indeed, as regards feet and footwear,
there is no need to say anything to the Amerl
can woman, who seems to be specially fa
vored by nature In this respect, and, further
more, to have the good sense and taste to
make the very best ot her precious posses
sions of exquisitely small and dainty feet
and slender ankles. So that to her I have
really to offer congratulations rather than
counsel, though her EngU-h and Contlnen-.
tal cousins, being less iKky, will, I hope,
read more and learn wisdom.
In themselves and 1 say this most emphat
ically the fashions which after a contlnoed
success of two seasons still prevail are tho
most entirely attractive which have fallen trt
the feminine lot for a hundred years or more,
only and beroris the stumbling block they
insistently demand a graceful, slender figure
and, if not actual youthfulness, at any rate
that appearance of Juvenility which is always
suggested by thU slender straiuiess of con
tour. It I Indeed the day of the woman with a
good figure, and she who is endowed by na
ture and a clever corstlere with a slim and
sinuously graceful shape can score constant
and complete triumphs over the woman whose
beautiful face has hitherto filled her less well
favored sisters with despairing envy. But. fall
ing this particular aad perfect form, consider,
able discretion and modification should be
exercised aa regards the choice and style of
dress, though, indeed, it would seem that few
women are so clearsighted as to see them
selves a others see them, and therefore
realize their defects, while the average dress
maker, too, has not the courase to open their
eyes and in their mutual interestto insist
on the selection of something really suitable.
Wherefore It is that one sees so many cari
catures and so little charm.