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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 5, 1911)
he Omaha Sunday Bee Magazine Page Copyright, 1911, by Amertean-Exstnlner. Great BrIUIa Rights Reserved. A- . Y:: X The Crinoline Over-Skirts, the Wicked Slit Skirt, the Old Victorian Frills and , Some Danger Sig- nanclng positive atrocities of attire! Thcro la, for one, tho tailored cos tume which allies tho briefest of coats to the tightest of skirts, to cut. In fact, that the curves of the figure at the back are followed and accentuated In a way which only succeeds in being entirely unsight ly, though I presume that their wearers will flatter themselves that they are being exceedingly and fas cinatingly Improper. Well, one can perhaps forgive Impropriety which is Just delicately suggested and therefore alluringly attractive, but there is no such ex cuse for the bold, hard outlines of these latest and unlovellest tailor costumes. Then, again, another "freak" fashion actually introduces two en circling flounces of black lace on a skirt of green mlrolr velvet, worn with a little velvet coat, there being. Indeed, a positive epidemic of this particular trimming, which is, of course, all right in Vn place, though In my opinion this place is with our stand that I do not wish or attempt to dictate I merely state my per sonal opinion, and, of course, follow and emphasize it In all my own models. So on this understanding I will further proceed to affix a danger signal to those other day and even ing gowns, whose slitting up from hem to knees, and sometimes even to the hips at one side of the skirt, is relied upon to create a vogue, or, at any rate a sensation, by two clever sisters, whose fame has hitherto been based upon a more praise worthy foundation and fashions. Day gowns are looped up with tas sels, to show deep and daringly transparent borderings or flounclngs of Jace, the incongruity and Ungrace fulness of the arrangement being made all the more glaring by the fact that the bodice part of these dresses reverts to the tight-fitting Two Horrible Examples and a The Modest Outline of a New The Grotesque Outline of One of "Luelle" Model. the New Walking Costumes. 5 1 . :-rj a!;Uv y .y'y,( I ' 0 Si 0 then I know quite well what form of neckwear you will choose. Next, as to the aforementioned and slit-up evening gowns, whose leg display is continued far above the knee, what can I. or, indeed, need I, say, about these, seeing that they are so obviously and entirely unsulted to ordinary wear, and that, moreover, no man worthy of the name would permit his wife or daughter to ap pear In public thus attired or, rather, thus disrobed! For, as shown by the mannlkins at one famous house, these srowas only veil the Bilk-stockinged left leg which is usually selected for such display by the merest film of net or cobwebby Ince. while some, again, In troduce a transparency of lace on tho front from the kneea to the ankles; Contrast. The 8IU-Up-to-the-Hlp Costume with an Enormous Chignon Coiffure. nals on the New Fash ion Road 4 r ' ' J J f it, t ' 1 1 i Th lhreat ot tho Crinoline. A New Parii Model with Wide Half-Lenjth Hoop Skirt Effect TT ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" j . ol London, and foremost creator r of fashions ''' in tne World, writes ekch weekthe faihion arucle for this newspaper, preenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women. Lady Duff-Cordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American establishment is at No. 17 West Thirty-sixth street. New York. By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile") bit 15 t dear departed great-grandmothers, or, at any rute, with our old aunta or any elderly dames who have solved the difficult problem of how to grow old gracefully by dressing la a dignified and picturesque way. Again, for the furore tor fringe I have no sympathy, especially aa it la being used without tho slightest discrimination, some people, in deed, seeming afraid to turn out a model which does not display this so-called stamp of novelty. Horrible, I call It, and so I. for one, shall have the courage ofmy opinions and use black lace not at all. whlls as to fringe. I shall, in the present as In the past, reserve It for the edging of sashes and the making of tasseU, perhaps, too, giv ing It one further chance by admit ting It as a possible aud when quite narrow even pretty trimming for hats. But, Indeed, it is for furnishing rather than sartorial purposes that fringe secures my entire approval, tta effectiveness as a narrow edging for inner silken curtains of emeraU greeu or hyacinth blue whose briL, ltant coloring it faithfully repeats being proved by many of the window draperies in my Parts house and in my own flat, t where always, also, there are outer cur ins of softly patterned tlesue or chlnta. However, in all this, pleace under. and long-walsted style and la fin ished oft with very high collar-band trimmed with fringe or edged with a tulle ruche, all of which details are in themselves tulte fatal alike to comfort and charm. By the way, have you realised the close connec tion between these two dualities? The waist line In the normal posi tionthe whole outline, in fact, of that natural and easy grace sug gested by the very name and in aured by the shape of the "statue corset" still constitutes my Ideal fig ure. while as regards tbe high and trimmed collar band. I beg of you all to beware of It, for It can, and does, add at least tea yeara to any worn an's apparent age. The down-turned collar of mellow toned lawn or lace, or the corsage cut in a deep round or V, remain a feature,of all my models, and I in vite you to atudy with careful and even cruel closcaess the contrast """""in me contour or your and neckt aa uprising free, ly from Sfcon a setting, and and as.vjjn the contrary, encased In a high, closely fitting and nniM bejewelled collar band which pushes up every atom of superflous flesh and fat into a hateful full ness and heaviness about your Jaw and chin. And ' n r 1 7 h-' III) hit . .7 i SM v ? ? - 4 ' . .J . ya hm faca 4fC 1 '1 1 ( t u I 1 ' 1 t I ! r - c , '( 6 -vf y si , ,,'. t v.. . j?!, ,V . :i , .. The New Shawl Drapings. The Fringed Shawl Covert the Back of the Model. 4" f , The Revival of the Victorian Frills. A Paris Model. and actually, too, there Is at least one model which gives a back view of the wearer's nether limbs by the Introduction of a sort of window cur tain of lane to the skin-tight sheath of velvet, which, being continued for all the length of the skirt Jn front, gives an amusingly accidental effect to this unexpected development and display. It is all, Indeed, calculated to dis gust rather than to allure, for once more let me impress upon you the faRclnatlon of the mere suggestion, which makes one look and look again, by always giving: just a hint and a hope of the further revelations which are never forthcoming! But when all Is shown and, In fact, forced upon one's view st the first glance, all further, interest is sac rificed to an immediate and merely momentary sensation (and not an entirely pleasant one, either), so that, to put the matter on Its very lowest level, the new skirt defeats its own and only possible aim. There are, in fact, only two points about the sllt-up evening gown in which it is preferable to the day dresses thus designed and disfig ured, these being the addition of a slight train which makes a back ground for tho limbs deprived of their ordinary covering in front, and then, asrnln. the further following In their straight, blgh-walsted line of tbe mervellleuse and Directolre modes, which, in tbe case of the long walsted, high- collared afternoon gowns, are merely parodied. H am going to talk about some fashions other than my own. because I tellers that never has there been a season when a woman Is so apt to make a mistake as this one. It has been said that the crinoline wilt be revived. It cannot be. That atrocious style win have an end more Ignominious than the degraded harem skirt cud the cxtromu hob ble. ! have seen no well dressed woman, no woman whose name stands for gentlewomanly dressing, wearing eveu a modification of it. liut here I Dhow one such l'arls modification. The upper skirt is full and flares out at tbe bottom a good two tut be away from the under skirt. Here, too, is au ex'reme of the flounce, relic of the ancient Vic torian days, which will. In Its ex tremes, make woman look like a (urlauded Maypole. And so 1 want to talk about these dangers. Don't think I'm aylng all other fashions but mine are bad. That vould be foolish and untrue. But you should U. warned at extremes. If you are willing to accept my guidance on this same new and rather bewildering road (which is anything but a straight aud nar row one), I can, 1 think, save you from some certain delays and even some possible disasters, and Insure you speedy and safe arrival at that goal of "charm" which is. I hope, tbe destination and alu of oue and all of you. For do I not remember the pain ful and pitiful sights which con stantly met ray eyes at Trouvllia and Duauvllle, where one expects to find fashions at their best, but where last month I could only dis cover them at their worst? Everything was hopelessly exag gerated, and the most extreme styles of all were worn by the very women to whom they were most entirely uasulted and, therefore, un becoming. Fat. middle-aged dames by the score there were who had encased their stiffly corseted, but stilt bulging, bodies tn skimpy skirts, which, being made in high- -walsted style aud finishing directly under the bust and blouse, gava fk.m the appearance of hitting la and overflowing a barrel! Then, protruding from the other end of these same barrels were thick-set. stodgy ankloa and un gainly feet, whose tlze was still further accentuated by a contrast of color between shoe and stocking, the whole lll-proportloued editlce being crowned by an enormous hat, which hid the neck and sometimes even broke Into and disfigured the line of tbe shoulders. And there is. as I hinted, every prospect of thlugs becoming worse, for. Instead or devoting their best energies aud Ideas to riving further variety to the preseut and pretty styles and therefore making them possible for tbe great majority In stead cf merely for the fortunate and fascinating minority some of our leading modista are doing things which I consider unworthy of their name and fame, and. In or der to cause a merely passlug sen sation, are creating and counts- Why the .t I .- km - iV-jM m W German Grown Prince Cannot Go Hunting Again rj-su the Crown Hrinco vutn Two Leopard Cubs Hs Killed In India. WE Crown Prince of Cermanr and his wife will ao on no more hunting expeditions In the wilds of India, If tho German Reichstag has anything to say. It was all very fine for these young People to take their trip through India. China and the Far East last year, and they had a good time, bringing back many trophies of the hunt, which decorate their palace la Berlin but "Never again!" Of course, every precaution was taken to keep the royal pair out of danger, but one more than one occa sion the least slip of a hunting ele phant, or one spring cf an enraged tiger, and the heir to the German throne would have been no more, The statesmen of Germany have given some thought to this matter and they have decided that It Is tak ing too great a risk, so now when the Prince wishes to go hunting it will be la the game preserves of his own country, where the game Is driven up to him, and that game la not very dangerous. It may not be so exciting as hunting tigers in In dia, but Is far aafer for the Empire, and that Is the chief consideration with the public men of Germany. It has even been suggested that soma laws should be passed to pre vent tbe heir to the throne from tak ing such unnecessary risks, for one mistake or miscalculation might mean the upsetting of the entire suc cession. It cannot be said that tbe Prince himself la in favor of these restrictions of his liberty, but the Emperor agrees with bis advisers and he is accustomed to being obeyed. As the German nation studies these pictures of the trip which their future Emperor and Empress took around the world they congrat ulate themselves over and over again that no fatal accident oc curred. The German people would be unwilling to eee the young pair start on another trip like it. Borne Americana have doubted the wisdom of tho long trips even around their own country which Presidents have been taking since Roosevelt set the example. Only lately the Presidential train was ssved from a terrible accident only by the driving away cf miscreants about to blow up a bridge over which that train was to pas. It Is not a pleasant thing to sub mit to all these restrlctiona, but Im portant personages dare not rUk aa much as ordinary ladlvlduala. I If"? UL- Y, -; The Crown Crinceas as bhe bnared band's Hunting Perils Her Hue