THE OMAHA' SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER 1. 1911.
HEW AND OLDJ MILLINERY
Craving for Hovelty Eatiified by
Ancient Shtpei.
IfOBBT STYLES FROM TORTUS
a a trimming for
seems appropriate,
Italaaew mat of Color la Feetaera,
rienes. Artificial Flowere
. Rlbbeaa -Wide Brlaaa aad
Lena; rin.
To satisfy the Insatiable craving of tha
novelty seeker for something new, la a
difficult teak, but tha trade seems to have
accomplished It eeUafactorllv. It 1 true
that something new la often onljr some
thing eld revived, but that doea not ax
dude It from tha category of novelties.
a a matter of fact there la quite a da
j rnend for old-fashioned materials, eolora
and contoura. Thera If. for example, the
poke, and then tha new close-fitting tur
Tana with their monumental crowna hark
, ne bark to tha fortlea, although in those
day a beadsis. were not aa large aa they
are nev. Plsln felta ara again In rogue,
land vrl. .i!' promise to ba near tha top
of the i-. st sellers. It la astonishing how
many vclnur hata one aeea under tha hot
AuKutt Kim and worn with tha most aum
jrner (imnr. These are devoid of trim
ming;, having a slik cord only around tha
base of the crown, and are not only In
white or black, but In vivid eolora, eueh
aa purple and blue.
riumage plays the principal part In the
trimmings of the early fall modela. Breast
plumage giving more or less tha effect of
I fur la not by any ineana set aside, and
1 likely to ha very popular, eapeclally
for toquea, but the leading flrma prefer
.to ure lor.g, soft ronteaux for tha pur
I pose, particularly 'n variegated and
i ahaded colore. A very handsome toque
has the brim covered with six-Inch long
eonteeus of thla aort, showing" rather deep
mother-of-pearl tints, combined with a
i full crown of kingfisher blua velvet an J
handsome fancy In lophophora
Cleatera ef Rlbboata,
In Borne of tha toquea tha effect of p.
' full crown la obtained by loop of wtds
j molra ribbon, set tip erect In a, cloeter bo
i aa to conceal tha foundation entirely. It
la tha fashion to match tha ribbon to the
color of the dreaa or suit and to select
velvet of a, contrasting color often black
for tha velvet brim.
Cross-cut bands of silk or satin un
raveled at the edgee ara being used' by
many milliners Instead of ribbon for hats
trimmed with large bows, cockades and
poufs. ' Bhot material la usually choeen,
which gives a soft plumage In effective
variegated tonra. The felt traveling hata
aaauma tha form of the Panama, which
.they ara almost entirely superseding.
While and different shades of light
brown, chamois and gray ara moat seen.
.Thera Is a tendency to match them to tha
suit with which they ara worn aad a
favorite trimming Is a long conteaa made
. of leather emerald green, royal blua, or
white atuck In a band of velvet of tha
same color If green or blue ba chosen,
or elsa one of white leather.
Feather Trtaaaalagr,
At this season considerable attention la
always fastened on feathers, both ostrich
and fancies, and thla season la no excep
tion, for excluding some fruit aad a few
velvet flowers and fancy ribbon bow ef
fects, feathers are used almost entirely.
There are many beautiful ostrich ef
fects, sometimes another feather being
introaucea. a. new commnatlon Is os
trich and goura, for while paradise and
oetrtch are moat often combined, this can
not truthfully be regarded aa a new Idea,
One of the newest ostrich dusters la com
posed of one long full feather, which may
be curled or uncurled, and this bursts
Into a cluster of three or more tlpa at the
the end. Thla fancy la made, aa Indoed
most of them are, to take an upward
line oq a hat, but of course at an angle
and not perpendicular, although there are
.other feathers made to atand up a la
mlUtaire at the front or side of a tower
ing toque. There are many curiously
ehaped clusters of , email tlpa and flat
tened pom-poms, from the center ot which
a queerly twisted feather, usually un
curled and In two or more ahadea, arises,
Tiny and medlum-alsed tlpa are much In
, evidence, aa well aa lone; feathers, feather
bands, fringes and rtckede effects.
CwaafclMttoa Effects aaa Coles.
Paradise ia very fashionable, particu
iarly In colors, and thla. by the way, Is
true also of ostrich. There are bush at
fects of curled paradise, aa well aa tha
beautiful drooping tails In natural and
artificial coloring. Paradise must take
tha place of aigrettes to a certain extent;
although there are some olever Imitation
aigrette, blondlne for example, numldl
ana peacock. One of tha latest novelties
ta a metallised paon or peacock feather.
It Is prettiest In steel and bronae cover
ings and Is used lavishly on many cf tha
smartest French hata. There are beau
tiful willow novelties in all the accepted
colorings of the aeaaon, for the demand
for willow la very strong.
'Goura Is being shown and la having
quite some aale in gray and in dyed col-
. re. vulture, too, is in the limelight It
Is used both curled and straight and. of
ouree, while much coarser in texture,
baa much the appearance of ostrich, par.
. ocularly when curled.
Quite aa Important in their sphere are
wings. Very large ones are favored, aa
may be -eeea by a glance. White wings
i as well. It is a fad to use eeveral wings
of Individual color together, rather than
' have several colors appearing In the aama
wing.
Wide Brlaa Hata.
a large number or the hata are very
much wider than they are deep. Well
Mgh thirty inchea of breadth Is attained
by some of the very largest which do not
measure- much more than half that from
front to back. Sometimes the brim
wider en one aide then the other and the
wider elde ta often mora pointed than the
ether. When thla la the case one aide
may turn up while the other curves down?.
- but not always to the same extent The
crowns of such hata are almost Invar
lably domed.
One ot the largest ahown la In the vary
darkest shade of fslaa brown, tha velvet
with which It ia covered la stretched
without an apparent fold (the few necea.
sary to model It over the crown being
hidden by the trimming) two birds of
raradtae minus their long tall feathers
being attached to one on each aide
against tha crown. The same arrange
ment la extended to a similar black vel
vet hat only In thla case the bodies of
the bird are suppressed and the rest of
their plumage la made up Into the shape
j of wings.
Trlsssatags for the rail Bet.
In the previous Issues mention haa been
made of fringe. Now, aa a rival for
chenille fringe we have allk fringe and
trtage of tiny beads, such aa adorn the
age ef a lamp shade. In Just the same
way la It used on the bats, although allk
and chenille fringe appears around and
over tne cromns aa wsil Jmo, too, there
ward tb ranks ef fashion, it Is still
fad. White worsted
black velvet hardly
yet it la used.
Wide silk braid la used aa a binding aa
ell aa trimming la also -In evidence.
White allk braid, the kind usually asio-
clated with the dresamaklng Instead of
the millinery trade, ta used on velvet and
velour hats, white on black or a deep
urpla, blue or green being smartest.
Sometimes a band of braid la put over a
Igh crown, giving It the appearance of
being divided. Thla la a curloua effect
one ef the police helmet crowna.
hlch, by the way, la a popular crown;
buttona are a natural accompaniment to
thla braid and are usually used right In
the braid. New York Millinery Trade Review.
The Bridge,
"Mr friend." said tha preacher. "I wish
to talk to you about your Immortal soul.
ave rou Gone anything to Insure your
ntrance Into the Kingdom of Heaven?
,et me warn you
un, saia the man wno was truer try-
ng to get hi fiftieth million unlnter-
upted. "J don t wlah to diaruaa the mat
ter with you now. I'll croia that .bridge
when I come to It.
'But, mv friend, the trouble la that you
re not going to come to It unless sou do
some traveling In a different direction
rnm the one In which you are headed."
memo Kecoro-iiersld.
Forelga aad Itomesnade Bread,
FitlKon aavs he will rive mnt xn
bread alon while In Kurope. He likes the
orelgn bread because It 1b not eo white
as oura. He cites the wonderful tltecov-
ry that herl herl was canned In l.'hlna
hy polishing the rice nnd he would have
s return io a darker bread In which the
xternale of the arum of wheat are nra.
served. Ir. Orahnm, who Invented Gla
um bread, had the same Idea and iih
comparatively . young of dyapepnia. We
re .are With while bread and noeled
potatoes. Many rolnied people keen
emthy in the ninth without rutin ....
termelon rind. Brooklyn Eagle.
SALAMANDER : ODD REPTILE
New Spteiei of Batrtchian of Which
Pliny and Othen Loved to Write.
TUm(Y THEORIES BEGABDDTG IT
One Old Writer Claims Wool of the
Ileptlle Is Asbestos, aad Another
Kays Salamander Is a I.Uard,
Wltboat Wool or Hair.
WASHINGTON, Sept. M. Nearly even
one knows something, of the maetodon
and mammoth and -other great pre-hls-toiie.
animals, but whst of the smaller
ones? Take tha life history and traditions
of that little batrachlan, the aalamander,
described and figured hy the ancient
naturallsta, Aristotle, Pliny, de Thaun,
Porta, Marco Polo and Browne, aa well
as by those of the present day.
The aalamander I not an especially at
tractive animal, simply a small amphib
ian, resembling a Heard, but without
acalea, having a moist skin, colored in
spots, or bands of yellow, orange or
brown. In Ita early life It has an aquatic
(larval stage, but in later life It puts aside
such childish things aa gills, and, de
veloping lungs, becomes air breathing and
behaves tike an ordinary reptile. For its
habitat it chooses dark and damp places,
where It leads a quiet peaceful life, feed
ing on aquatic worms. Insects and very
small animals.
One must go bsck to the mediaeval dity
for the flrat reports of this animal. The
ancients all agreed that the salamander
was a mall reptile, a lover of cold and
wel, never venturing from Its lair except
In rainy weather. It waa believed' by
some that, possessing a frigid and moist
nature. It wss only necernary for a sala
mander to come In contact with a fire to
extinguish It, Just se lf Its body were
truly made of Ire. while others held that
it lived and thrived In fire two very ad
verse beliefs, confused hy nearly all early
writers, and yet left uninvestigated for
centuries. The first resisting charm waa
even accorded to certain gnomes and
sylph, as well as to the fslr water
nymph, I'ndlne. And so, In fable and
mythology, the salamander existed for
years; considered both flre-troof and flre
extlngulnhlng. Eventually, a scientist nemed ' Pliny,
more practical than his confreres, de
cided to find the truth of the matter; se
curing a salamander he put It Into the
fire, where the early victim of scientific
research waa Immediately consumed,
while the fire continued to burn. Thla
satlafled Pliny that both the theories
were unfounded, but ha waa unable to
convince tha world at large, and so the
tradition obtained.
When asbestos was first discovered it
waa thought to be salamander's wool and
was msde Into cloth and wearing apparel,
capable of being cleansed by fire instead
of water, a rather advanced and sanitary
process for that period. But Browne
loosened this theory somewhat in his ex
posure of vulgar errors, when he declared
the salamander to be "a kind of lizard, a
quadruped without woole. furre or halre,"
making such a wool gathering most
hopeless undertaking. It was Marco
Tolo, however, who finally demonstrated
that the real fire-proof substance was as
bestos, asserting at the same time that
the salamander murt be made of this ma
terial; a mineral and not a beast.
At one time the salamander had another
less acceptsble power, that of poisoning
whatever It toucheJ. . sntmate or inani
mate. TTi.a tradition . did not last long,
and today it is known that this animal
la perfectly harmless.
To those Intereeted In the scientific
study of this little reptile, a paper writ
ten by Dr. Leonhard Btejneger on three
batrachlans from Panama and Costa Rica
will appeal. This paper la publication
1.S57 of the proceedings of the Vnlted
Htatea National museum, and deals with
two curious tree toada from Panama and
a brand new salamander from Costa
Rica. This modern animal, a little over
two and a half Inches In length, hes a
smooth brown skin, somewhat striped In
lighter shade, a wide, flat head, and a
long cylindrical tall. Dr.. Stcjneger, the
author, has named the new species after
the collector. Mr. C. Plcado. who discov
ered it In La Estrella, southeast of Car
tagoCosta Rica.
GERMAN AND ENGLISH HELP
Experienced Hoaseworkere Demand
aad Secaro Aaaoal Privileges.
For years and years the hard-working,
cheerful, faithful German servant girl
has been held up as a model. The French
have been called too smart, the English
not smart enough; the colored maid has
been declared to be laiy, but the sober,
conscientious German has been consid
ered to he a model that all maids should
follow, but now, eo a New York paper
says, the German servant girl Is demand
ing fancy prices, and from working early
and late and expecting hardly any time
out, the In said to demand some part of
every evening, and those that demand
least stipulate for all of Bunday and two
or three work-day evenings. Borne also
desire to be sdd rested aa "Miss" Instead
of their Christian name. Others again,
but anything so revolutionary can hardly
be believed, demand that they shall eat
at their employer's table on equality with
the family, and it la asserted that eo
great Is the dearth of servants that this
demand Is acceded to.
Many refuse to take service where there'
are children or dogs. Others who Insist
on the mistress giving them written
promises that specified privileges shall
be secured for them. Can thla be? Has
not the "scrubbing Oerman"-used not as
a slur, but a proof of her reliability
been' a synonym for fatthfulneaa and a
real love of work for these many' yeara?
The situation Is reported quite' as acute
In Sweden. Norway and Denmark, where
the aervanta are aald to have organised,
with offices at Stockholm, Copenhagen
and Chrlstlania. These are their de
mands: "The suppression of all night work;
servants to knock off at 9 in the evening
and to res) until 7 next morning.
"Extra pay for aervanta should they be
requested to work after 9.
"A night out from S every week. Sun
day off from 10 In the morning every
fortnight, and a fortnight's summer holl-,
day, the regular wages and In addition
board wagea to be paid. .
"Increase of wages when the work of
the house is satisfactorily performed.
"The servant's room to be light and
warm and to be so situated S3 to catch
the sun."
Brgllsh maids are still as hard working,
patient drudges as ever, and as poorly
paid. A young woman who has charge
of eighteen rooms in a residential hotel
works from 6 a.' m. to 9 p. m., and adds
to her other tasks that of serving as a
waiter at two meals a day, and is paid
the equivalent of $1.37 a week, cannot b
said to be properly treated. But there
la eo much poverty In England, while a!l
classes In Germany are Increasing in
prosperity.
f
Murphy's Mall.
'' A freckle faced girl stopped at the pont
offlce and yelled out: "Anything for the
Murphys?"
"No, there Is not," aald the postmaster,
"Anvthlng for Jane Murphy?"
"Nothing."
"Anvthing for Ann Murphy?"
"No."
"Anvthing for Tom MurphyT"
"No."
"Anything for Bob Murphy?"
"No. not a bit."
"Anvthing for Jerry Murphy?"
"Nothing at all."
"Anything for Lire Murphy?"
"No. nor Tat Murphy, nor Denm?
Murphv, nor Pete Murphy, nor Tsui
Murphv. nor for John, Jack nor Jim
Murphy, nor for any Murphy, dead, liv
ing, unborn, native or foreign, civilised.
Kavage or barbarous, male or female,
black or white, franchlsed or disfran
chised, natural or otherwise. No! there
is positively nothing Individually, Jointly,
severally, now and forever."
1 The girl looked at the postmaster In
astonishment and said: "Please see If
there Is anything for Clarence Murphy.M
Mack's National Monthly.
No Chansre la Teeth Style.
Be careful when you say anybody hag
pretty teeth, now. For the chances that
they are false are about twice as greats
as they were ten years ago, according to
J. B. Morris. Mr. Morris Is salesman for
a dentintry supply concern of New Torlt
which sells false teeth to dentists vpo
special orders.
"The false teeth trade Is growing." he
said proudly. "I think the figures would
show ttbout twice as many sales as there
were ten years ngo. I think the reason la
that more candy and confections are be
ing eaten.
"This is one business in which styles do
not change much. My line Is much the)
same aa it was when I first went out. The
only difference is that the tlntlngs are be
ing made finer and closer matrlrlngs to,
real teeth are on the market." Kansas
City Times.
""'M"M-"MM--"----' ----
CALLS FOR BETTER METHOD
President Tft Warm Country to
Look to Intensive Farming'.
MUST COME TO SUSTAIN PEOPLE
Wltala Fifty Years Poamlatton Will
Be Doabled ana Crop Yield Will
Not Br Great Eaoagh tra
der Preaent Conditions.
STRACUSB. K T.. Sept 1 -Speaking
here tod-ty, Preatdent William 11.
Taft emphasized the need of methods of
farming and sounded a call for an In
creased "back-to-the-farm" movement.
In part he said:
We have tody In thla country, in con
tinental United States, about 1,(00,000,000
' acres of land. Of this, 873.000.000 are In
cluded In the acreage of farms. In the last
ten years that acreage did not Increase
more than (5,000,000, or a little over 4
per cent In that aama time our popu
lation Increased 20 per cent Of - the
873,000,000 acres, 477,000.000 are im
proved farm land. The S7.000,000 in
cludes woodland and unimproved land.
The Improved land in farms has In- -creased
about 63,000,000 In ten years, or
come It per rent, but this, It will be
seen. Is not equal to the Incrcaae In pop
ulation. " i .
Now, If our population increases aa
rapidly aa It has heretofore, we ahall In
fifty years have upward of 200.00ft, Ono
people in thla country to support on
this 173,000,000 acres, much of which Is
probably not capable of producing a
great deal. There ate some (0,000,000
acres of swamp land that can be drained,
and there ' are iS, 000,000 acres of land
that can be Irrigated; but with all these
It Is perfectly palpable that within tha
life of many who are born now we shall
be pressing the limit of our self-support
from the soil unless some other methoa
than the mere extension of area ba found
for the increasing of our crop produc-
tlon.
Must Adopt TKwf Method.
In the next one hundred yesrs. If this
Is to be a self-sustaining country, we
must adopt new method or farming and
. pursue them with eagerness and Intelli
gent enterprise There has been, aa wa
know, a movement from the farm to the
city. How can these present evils that
threaten the progress of our agriculture
be remedied? How ran the movement
from the farm to the city be stopped?
How can proper labor be secured upon
.the farm? Is there no remedy, or must
we change our nature aa a people and all
become a manufacturing nation and look
for our future supplies to some other
source in distant countries which them
selves are looking forward to a limit
upon their production.
I am an optimist and believe that sit
uation, however threatening or immed
iately discouraging, have in themselves
elements that Justify hope of better
ment. The increased price of farm pro
ducts has Increased the value of the
farms and lias made more certain the
profit of. farming.
Todsy, with Improved roads, with sub
urban railways, with the telephone, with
a rural free delivery, and I hope eoon
with the parcels poat the lift of the
farmer will approximate much mure
nearly that of his city brother than It
ever has in the past In addition to all
these elements that are working to the
restoration to the farms of Increased ef
ficiency In their management ia the edu
cation which Is being given In the coun
try, and on and near the farm., in scien
tific agriculture
Better School raolUtiss.
In the States we have long had agri
cultural colleges. Now the are being
supplemented by agricultural high
achools, and by what are called tha con
aolldated rural Schools, all of which
have the effect to create much more
than heretofore a cloaer farmer commu
nity, and to give growing youth a knowl
edge of agriculture and a prospect in
the high prices of fsrm products of an
adequate return for modern farming on
proper principle. This will give to the
brothers who etay on the farm a much
more certain prospect of a good income
and a comfortable living than tuoae who
eek to Join professions or to engsge in
business In which the chances for the
profits and a comfortable livelihood for
the individual are growing less, while
those upon the farme are rapidly in
creasing. The promotion of this movement of
vocational education of the embrvo
farmer In the sons of the present farmer
is ae high a function as any government
department could perform, and that is
what la being pressed forward under the
' "i eru-unure in every estate
In this nation. The vocation! .,'..
be Increased In every btata
..... ' ' .-a.- ' W
fW 1
must
V
- A
K i
r "
President Taft Pleads for Method of Increasing Crops
We must adopt new methods of farming and pursue them
with eagerness and intelligent enterprise1 President William
H. Taft at Syracuse, N. Y., Sept. 16 1911.
Tim was the keynote of the president's plea for more
sMensivc farming. He sounded a note of warning to
the country a warning that there must be less thought
of extension of area and more thought of scientific
methbds that will bring greater yields from land now
under cultivation.
The almost virgin states of the west, he said, must
be developed so they can support a population that
will be doubled within the next fifty years." "The de
velopment must come if this country is to be self-sustaining."
There has been a movement from the farm
to the city; now we must have a movement from the
city to the farm. It is now on. The embryo farmer in
the sons of the present farmer must be impressed with
the conditions and must be taught how to increase the
crops and keep the land fertile.
Action in line with that which the President urges is being taken by the
Omaha Land Show
Esperts here will demonstrate how to make western farms pay better produce
bigger crops and yet conserve the productivity for later years. Men will show farm
ers how to do just the things that lYcsident Taft urges should be accomplished.
t
Coma to th3 Big Show and Learn How to Make Your Land Produce Better Crops
: )
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