THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: 'SEPTEMBER 3. 1911.
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jvzth. Skilov Coll And Cuffs in Tfihbed. S . M I fc? ; : ifl
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mmoat reaionable and tba mott harmo- I HlilfTflCln I I m " -' '"m I
nlom and graceful of any fashions ever 1 VfuCJf I I r - ii:s V V T T"
created for women. P.WV V iWVtKT-. I I r f9i)lfk "ff 1
i . f. Nowaday! women look real. They W&rHmUii ' I I V
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HE fashions or today are on a whole tha
H 1 mot reasonable and the mott harmo
I I nlous and graceful of any fashions ever
JL I created for women.
Nowadays women look real. They
seem "to have real anatomy. When one
remembers the bustles, polonaises, bal
loon sleeves.' high busts, warn walsta.
and other such atrocities one begins to realise that the
modern gown, which tends towards simplicity of line
and follows the outlines of the human body. Is on the
right road to common sense and good tste.
Another Important point la that the fashions of thla
season are adaptable to all types of flguro.-. It 1 a
pity, however, that so many stout women lo not real
ize this and continue to compress themselyea nto tight
fitting clothes, thinking, no doubt, they loox smaller,
while the effect Is quite the contrary
The styles of the last few seasons are designed prin
cipally for the slender and the tall; in fact, for three
years the styles have been made for the slim, slinky
figure, and the fat have no consideration shown them.
What's to be done?'
Be out of style, or else create a style all your own
if you are a sensible victim of avoirdupois.
The atout woman can dresa to look her best if she
will. "It take thought, courage, and a rigid simplify
ing of tastes.
If you wish to be a woman who doesn't look her slie
bere are a few things to do:
Recognise your affliction from the start.
Don't Indulge In the fond delusion that you are
velte and have not been putting on pounds at a beauty
ruining rate.
Then take your stand In front of a mirror and look
at yourself long and hard. Be sure you do It under
standing. Look at yourself Just as If you were an
other woman.
tiee yourself a others see you; gulp down th aad
fact that you have spread some and then begin adjust- '
tnent t the new conditions.
Having acknowledged that you are fat, say In the
next breath. " Well, any way. I am not going to look
It. so there."
Make up your mind that bright color, tight fitting
Uses, lying In bed In the morning, sitting -when you
74
"Velvet; Tlte icaxr rhos -the Yew ihot
CUcKe :
should be standing, the eating of candy and sweets
must be things to do away with entirely.
You must reconcile yourself to atralght lines, sub
dued colors, smooth materials, and simplicity, await
ing that great day when some kind modiste will re
member that there are a few fat women as wall as
long, lank, lean ones. -
Quod corsets are an absolute necessity, regardless
of . the no-corset movement that Is sweeping through,
the country. Then skillful cuts will do much to make
the' fat woman look' as If she weren't, but rigorous
self-dental la what is really needed. As most women
would rather buy sllmness than earn it, this isn't
always pleasant to hear.
None the less, exercise and diet are the only stand
bys for the woman with the hankering after willowy
lines,
Turn the other way when you come to a mirror,
learn not to mind when your friend make side re
marks about your increased weight, and Ufa will be
fairly comfortable.
In regard to the all Important costume, tha tailored
suit, a great deal of attention is given to the strictly
tailored models. They are made this season with Uitle
trimming and usually show the notched collar and
small revere similar to those on a man's coat. They
fasten down tha front with four or five buttons and
soma show. a alight cutaway effect instead of the
qua re cut coat of the laat season. These coats nearly
all measure from twenty-atgbf to thirty inches. The
skirts are usually plain, narrow, and but few show the
panel back. ,
Wfctfle there are coats cut ou at tha waist ltae and
Th-nee- Txece 3vc.its Are 3tiH Tbrtilar.
This 7ibdjsl 3hovirs Ttewest Developme-ni?
in Blot, ses.. The Skirt Is Fringe Trimmed
having a fitted skirt or peplum attached, as well as
coats that show some odd cuttings of the aeama, there
promises to be a big demand for the straight line seml
flttlng coat; this is particularly true In medium priced
goods.
Titi dressier suits show considerable trimming on
large collars, revers, and cuffa, and frequently on
skirts. Velvet and satin are uaed largely for this
purpose. Novelty velvets, particularly In striped ef
fects, are aJso shown. Plain and fancy braid as well
as braid ornaments are much In demand, particularly
in black, though many are dyed to match material.
The new woolen embroideries in East Indian effect
nd colorings are seen on many of the high grade
goods.
A noticeable feature of tha dreasler types of cos
tumes Is tha odd cutting of tha seams. By clever
manipulation of tha smears the designers are able to
get up a variety of coats which are smart and ex
tractive looking.
Soma of the Imported model give the allghtly ahort
ened waist Una In the back or in the back and tne
aides.
Among the novelties being tried out are the separate
bolero Jackets made of transparent material. They
were tried out last season and they met with poor suc
cess. It remains to be seen whether they will be
adopted this season.
While the regulation coat aleeve Is used largely in
both tailored and deml-tallored suits, some of the best
houses are also employing the kimono aleeve. or a sleeve
with a kimono cut set Into the armhole. The latter
sleeve is made from three-quarters to seven-eighths
length and is finished with a deep turnback cuff.
. In tha plainer suits, serge, fancy cheviots, and wor
steds, in mannish effects, are most desirable. There
is also a strong tendency to favor broadcloths, par
ticularly those with high luster finish. Handsome vel
vet suits are featured in both plain colors and novel
striped effects, aa well as Bedford cords.
On the page is given an illustration of a smart deml
tallored ault. It haa the short Jacket showing tha
broken . lines .and a alight cutaway effect. It has a
aallor collar finished at the shoulder line with small
velvet revers. The sleeve Is In kimono effect, with
outside finish on shoulders. It has a narrow skirt
floss is a new note In trimming.
An attractive frock of a three piece costume Is also
shown. It has a twenty-eight Inch coat with the back
gathered In at waistline, full length regulation coat
sleeves with draped revers of white satin, large but
tonholes velvet bound, and simulated underskirt with
tunic trimmed In fringe with a ten Inch slash at the
side. The material is permo in brocaded pattern. The
waist is of white satin paitly overlaid with blue tulle
and the girdle of the same material, arranged to fall .
aver the skirt top.
Another attractive three-pleoe model was made with
the bodice having a crosswise arrangement of stripes
overlaid with chiffon. Hand embroidered collar, lace
edged, with low front finish. Straight line skirt finished
with a foot band, back panel sash, end a fancy short
coat of broadcloth, long shoulder line with set-on
sleeves. . Tha. materials were a combination of plain
and striped materials.
In regard to blouses to wear with tha tailored cos
tumes: The chiffon variety is shown in many designs,
and soft finished crepes, silks, and satins, too, ara well
represented. These waists are made with low neck
finish and short transparent sleeves, or in styles
finished at the throat wlt.i a blonde net gulmpe. In
some cases a lace. Jetted, or beaded peplum extends be
low the waist. When these models are worn the ap
pearance of a separate blouse is eliminated, as they
have tha effect of tha soft transparent waists now so
extensively seen in gowns.
While allover laca is being shown, there Is a strong
tendency to veil tha lace. Fichu effects, all .kinds of
fancy collars, revers, yokes, high collars and cuffs ara
made in both heavy and Una qualities of lace. Macrama
lace is meeting with favor, but Is used sparingly on
Diuuaes, owing 10 us neary appearance, tsoin imita
tion and real Venice, baby Irish filet, and cluny of
the coarser variety ara used.
There Is a tendency to favor brighter colors that was
nuinu inmi si-ason, put l.ie waist maicning me suit will
dominate the market, however.
And now a word about color: This is most important.
Most women made a serious mistake when selecting
color for. their clothes. They do not consider their In
dividuality. They often choose a color only because It
Is fashionable. One must consider complexion, hair, and
eyea when selecting colors.
In regard to the accessories for the tailored ault:
There Is a revival of Jabot pins of various kinds, chiefly
tha long barred type; then there is a fad for shell
oejneo pins. Leading Paris dressmakers are employing
cameos as buttons, or as a single fastener on surplice
effect walsta. As used in Parla the caineos ara in round
or oval button form, equipped with ring for sewing to
tba garment.