THE OMAHA SUNDAY 13EE: 'AUGUST C. 1911.
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lARIS. Special Correspondence. 1 It la
PI quite time to begin to talk about lingerie
I dreaies, bathing suits, picture hats, and
I various other details that go to make up
the summer wardrobe. They are all im
portant adjuncts and require thought and
care In their selection, and it Is just as
well to be provided with a certain amount
of information as to what is really the
latest thing In materials and colors, to say nothing of '
styles of gowns and hats.
In the first place the lingerie frock of muslin, tucks,
lace, and .possibly embroidery is no more, or if it is '
seen it is so veiled with chiffons, so bedecked with
blossoms of every variety, silk, crepe, velvet, or what
one likes, so trimmed with fringes, grellots, ribbons,
and the many fancy motives that are now to be had
that the simple frock, which the word lingerie suggests, '
is absolutely lost sight of.
Parisian women have never taken kindly to crlipness
in gowns and Infinitely prefer the clinging fabrics to
those that stand tipon their own merits, or, 4n other
words, that have enough dressing to give that look of
freshness that Americans so greatly admire. There
fore, If one haa a muslin frock made In Paris it is
sure to be fashioned of any of the vBt list of ma
terials that are quite without starch and hang limply
to the figure. There is no denying that these have a
plcturesqueneas that is all their own and also which
Is a boon and a blessing to most women they do not
require constant pressing and even laundering.
The materials that are most in use this year for
dressy lingerie frocks are marquisette, which has quite
taken the place of batiste, voile, usually the cotton
variety, and cotton crepe, a lovely fabric, especially In
white. Of course there are other goods, crystalline,
Indian, a material something like muslin, but with a '
silk finish; old fashioned mull, which Is' beautifully
adapted to certain pronounced styles, and half a dozen
others that might be mentioned.
Marquisettes la so nearly allied to chiffon that it is
only by looking close they can be told apart, but
the former has far greater wearing qualftlea than
the latter and lends itself much more readily to em
broidery and to all the heavy trimmings that are so
much In use. It comes, it would seem. In every oolor, '
but If a proper shade cannot be obtained then It may'
be easily colored, taking any shade, no matter how
difficult or vague.
Marquisette gowns this season are being trimmed
with niet lace and with point de Flandre, these two
being more fashionable than the ever popular Irish or
Valenciennes. Occasionally one sees frocks in which
this last mentioned lace is combined with felt, the
result being extremely good and naturally making a
vast difference in the expense of the gown.
Doucet (and Jeanne Halleev both noted for their
exquisite lingerie gowns, are showing marquisette
dresses banded about their lower part with old filet lace,
that la nearly If not quite yellow In tint. In one model
seen the material above this band, which was half a
. yard deep, was lightly embroidered in cotton combined
with silk In two or three ahadea of cream white. Above
this embroidery, which was also in the form of a band,
the skirt showed two other bands, both of Valenciennes
lace, of a dainty pattern. The bodice of the gown had
no embroidery, but was made entirely of the two laces,
with Just a small bit of the marquisette on the under
half of the sleeves and under arm, to serve as a back
ground for the lac and hold it in place.
Another model of this same material showed a tiny
touch of color about the bottom' In the form of a
straight told of apple green chiffon. Over this hung a
flounce of point de Flandre and above this there were
aome motives of Valenciennes lace set Into the skirt to
take away the plain appearance at the top. As with
the other the bodice was nearly all of the two laces,
the point de Flandre being put on like a girdle at the
waist line and again as a short yoke at the top. This
frock waa entirely veiled with the thinnest of white
moussellne, so filmy that all the lace beneath could be
perfectly seen, and In place of a belt there was a sash
of chiffon, knotted loosely at the left side, with long
ends, the color being apple green to match the band of
the skirt.
Another novel change that Is being given to many
f these thin frocks Is the wearing with them of three
quarter length coats made of chiffon in some bright
hade. These are simply made, showing edjcs finished
with hemstitching with tiny grellots or with fringe, and
cut in kimono fashion with sleevea that arc ample and
that reach a little below the elbow. They ore loose, but
the high wast line Is defined by cording or Ehlrrlng that
holds the garment In place. Sometimes theso charm
ing garments are embroidered in bands across the bot
tom, which of course gives them a much more elabor
ate appearance, without really making them any pret
tier, and sometimes they have bands of lace of a dif
ferent character from what Is employed upon the gown,
and this is put on the underneath side like a facing. "
These last are most attractive. Frequently three or
four coats are made to accompany the some frock, the
colors most in use being purple, bright green, cerise,
and mandarin, and as the frock are always white one
may have by this a number of changes with small ex
pense and little trouble.
This season's cotton crepe Is much prettier than any
that has been brought out before, being wonderfully
fine In texture and soft and delightful to the touch. A
great many gowns of this are being combined with
English embroidery, ut not the heavy sort, the new
kind being fine and almost transparent. Crepe gowns
show tunics of thla embroidery, with bands of the
same about the bottom of the skirts, and these tunics
and bands are sometimes lined with brilliant shaded
chiffons, or with brocaded silks that are vividly colored.
Other are embroidered with wools having all the
tints that are to be found In tapestries, for It Is In
tapestry designs that the work Is executed. Most of
the trimming Is on the skirts, for the bodices of most
of the soft lingerie gowns are such small affairs that
- there la little room for decoration. Another embroidery
that Is frequently employed for crepe and for voile as
well Is an Imitation of that which Is seen on old India
work, embroidered shawls, gowns, and the like. It Is
one of the most effective of any that Is used, being
done In coarse cotton and somewhat raised, but In
fairly small designs. A favorite method of using it la
la panela, a single one In front, or two narrow ones
at the sides, or In the abape of a tunic, the bodice and
klrt being fashioned toother and then embroidered
to give thla semblance.
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Gown of white crepe, showing puffs on the
skirt and embroidery on the bodice and sleeves.
Touches of deep purple velvet on dceves and
at the neck. Model from Paquin.
In colored lingerie gowns there are some marvelous
two tonoil effects being shown, and if not two toned,
then some combinations that are quite as pronounced.
One model seen at the races won of voile, the lower
part of the skirt being of huge black and white plaid,
while the upper half was of equally noticeable stripes,
also black and white. The plaid half extended to the
knees and opened over an underskirt of apple green
chiffon, the opening being In front and also to the
knees. The striped upper half was finished down tho
front with a series of strtps of black satin, an Inch
or two wide and three Inches long,, either end of each
strap being caught with green buttons. The stripes of
the skirt went round the figure, but the bodice of the
same showed them going up and down, with sleeves to
match the' skirt. The finish of all was black satin with
green buttons and chiffon, and worn with a black and
white hat It stood out conspicuously among a great
many other conspicuous toilets.
Another black and white frock was also striped, and
very wide ones, and showed a skirt that was quite
plain but for superb bands of point de Flandre lace to
finish the bottom. The yoke was of the same lace
and so was the lower part of the sleeves, which were
long enough to come down over the hands. There was
little to say or dscrlbe about the general make of the
gown, but It was made noticeable by being lined, lace
and all, with cerise chiffon and being worn with a large
hat and bag to match. The former waa of dead waits
straw, with the brim covered with lace and the crown
trimmed with a wide band of cerise velvet, tied in a
big flat bow at one side, while the latter showed the
lace covering red chiffon, or silk, and hung onto the
arm by long red cords. This having the bag made to
match the cotttume Is the newest thing In bags, and they
are being carried now made of every sort of material
dotted foulard, crepe, silk serge, lace over chiffon, lace
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Rriprik rn1 PifPH rhifTnn vp?1?nr svViit mull Prnnt A T?1anr 1a trims fit futtttm
of the tunic and the sleeves. Velvet sash ends embroidered in silver. Model from. Lafaire.
Gown of yellow filet lace over cerise colored .
marquisette. The underskirt is plaited. Bodice
of tulle and lace with taffeta fischu of cerise
color and sash ends in back. Model from
Martial and Armond.
rimmed chiffon, linen, llnon, and. In fact, anything and
everything that can be thought of. All, without re
serve, are suspended from long oords. and these may
oe of a color, of velvet r;bbon or of gold or silver
cords.
Parasols, too. must now absolutely match the cos
tume, and for this reason there has never been such
a variety seen, both as regards materials and decora
tions. The latest shapes show long handles and much
curved as to the ribs, more In style like the old fash
ioned Dlrectoire shapes than any others, and there la
nothing too elaborate for tho trimming of ta, from
real lace to flower or pearl frlnae. or from m
to puffs of tulle or changeable silk.
But to return to lingerie gowns, or rather now to
those of somewhat heavier materials w'oh are Intended
for morning wear. There Is for the moment a perfect
rage for frocks of natural colored pique and for all
the shadea bordering on the yellow tones, some being
distinctly this and quite brllllont These show me
skirts of pique with tunics or little sleeveless coats of
English embroidery la the color of the gown. The
Lmbroldery
again, the line or the waist is marked by Fomo em
broidery .Jone in colored cottons, with a tourh of the
same on the bodice beneath. There is always some
sort of a dainty little Jabot, or a knitted tie of
satin or chiffon, to finish the low cut collar at the
throat, and occasionally a touch of Home lovely lace
appears at neck and wrists. The.se little gowns are
thoroughly practical and are cool and comfortable.
The skirts are nearly always ankle length and nar
row, and If they are trimmed at all It is with a narrow
band of embroidery, or an equally narrow Insertion of
English work.
When a sleeveless bolero Is used Instead of a tunlo
the under bodice is generally of a contrasting color, or
It Is of tulle embroidered In color or trimmed with
lace. These boleros are cut away In front, showing
some sort of handsome ribbon girdle, or a sash of
chiffon, the ends of which are finished with tassels or
embroidered motives. Worn with a smart hat In black
or white, boots of the same shade a the dress, and
accompanied by a parasol and bag to match, the effect
of these costumes Is of the very best.
In bathing suits one may aay there Is little that
Is new and different to tell of, but It Is a alngular fact
that with the advent of the culotte costume the culotte
bathing suit has disappeared. Now every one la made
with skirts and those of a more than -moderate length.
Borne reach quite well over the ankles, and these show
the slit up sides such as are to be seen upon many
tailored suits. In fact, the bathing costume of today
does not differ greatly from those planned for street
wear, except, possibly, as to their material. They show
tho close fitting culotte. knee high or to the ankle .as one
pleases, beneath; a narrow skirt, scalloped or slashed
and trimmed with flat folds or bands. The bodices are
short walsted. with cords to mark the line, or with
neat belts of leather In a color, or In black or white
combined with a color. Kevers finish the fronts, and
sailor collars, or vestment shaped ones, aa the case
may be, are seen falling over the back. Most of th4
costumes are In plain colors, dark blue, black, deep
red, blue and gray, and the materials are generally
taffetas, silk serge, or satin. There are some alpacas
to be seen, but they are not nearly so well liked and
the actual cost of theee is nearly as much as the others.
Changeable silk In dark colors Is also much used and
makes some chic looking bathing dreBses.
It Is doubtful If the real picture hat of this season
has yet arrived, for thest! usually do not appear until
summer frocks of the lightest description are being worn.
There are, however, many large hats being worn, any
one of which Is sufficiently picturesque to be attractive.
The shape so far most seen, is slightly wider on the left
side than the right and raised the least possible bit.
White straw Is decidedly preferred to bhsck or any
color, and many of them are trimmed all In white or
In the palest colors. There are myriads of flowers to
be seen, and they are apparently tossed onto the ha pi
without regard to size or color. Some of these com
binations .are charming, because they look so unstudied
and also because the flowers are the most beautiful
that ran be Imagined. Crepe and velvet flowers are
combined together, and there are some made of tulle
that are simply delightful, so delicate and fragile look
ing are they.
Tulle In various ways trims a number of large hats,
some showing the crown quite covered with many little
upstanding frills, or with puffs, through which ribbon
Is drawn. Then there are Imitation ostrldi feathers
made of tulle, aigrette that are as light aa thistledown,
huge bows dotted over with tiny flowers, or with seed
pwarls, that are very dainty looking. Most of the trim
ming la arranged at one side, or well toward the back,
and all Is made to stand as high aa possible.
There are some glorious ostrich ylunies being used
on big hats, some of .which aro about the crowns, or
Stand nearly 'erect In groups at the back. Both the
willow plume and those showing only a slightly droop
ing feather are fashionable, but shading has quite taken
the place of those In single colors, no matter how
handsome they are. The shading are not always of
one coloring, but combine two sjjJ sometime mora. -
