THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JULY 16. 1911.
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ENNI&. golf, riding, swimming, canoeing
are now accomplishments rather than
faiis, and In prouort ion as they have be
come matters of course In the feminine
education the. i lnil.vH wonv have each
aei-ion become less frenklsh and mannish.
Practical and appropriate they must be,
but thai Is no reason for their not being
becoming, pretty, and feminine. While certain sports,
such as riding and motoring, require distinctive clothes,
the general tendency today la away from Individual
dress for etch sport and towards sensible, comfort
able out of door clothing suitable for any kind of out
door service.
To begin with, the woman who rides and dresses well
for It requires rather an expensive equipment to start
with, but fortunately well, made ridinfr clothes last a
long time, so a good riding habit may be mala to give
long service unless one gives it more than ordinary
hard wear. Finco the cross saddle has gained consider
able acceptance there Is more variety in the riding
wear offered than formerly.
One may have the conventional side saddle habit with
the universally accepted safety skirt, the divided skirt
habit, or the long coat and breeches habit, and there
are wealthy women who order all three style, adapting
their costumes to the place and occasion. This season
the long coat and breeches are the smartest thing to be
obtained In riding toggery, though the divided skirt Is
a close second. Nowadays in the west It Is practically
Impossible to hire a good horse if a side saddle is tu
be used, the owners declaring that poor riding and a
aide saddle riot perfectly fitted will ruin the back of a
horse in one day.
Ready made habits of all three varieties are shown
In the shops. Some of them are well cut and made,
while all naturally are much less expensive than a
habit made to order by a good tailor.
If a woman rides much and can afford to go to a
really expert tailor she will be wise to order her habit
there. The absolute severity of such a costume throws
alt the responsibility for its success upon cut and At,
and no ready made garment can do for one's figure what
a garment cleverly made to one's measure will do.
The coat and breeches suits In particular require
skillful tailoring, and unless one can go to a first class
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Utlor for such a habit It w.lll be wiser to choose
divided skirt if one Is bent upon cross saddle riding.
There Is a growing liking for tan' or dust color light
weight coverls and whipcord khaki for summer habits.
These certalnily show the dust lesa readily than the
dark cloth, but on the other hand they are not so be
coming or nearly so kind to a full figure. To supple
ment a good dark habit one of these cloths light In
weight and color or a linen habit, if one can afford
two riding habits, the linen of the soft, heavy, coarsely
woven variety that resembles crash but wrftch will be
cool yet keep lis shape and not wrinkle distressingly,
aa aome of the finer woven linens do. Is the thing to
choose.
Coats for riding are semi fitting as a rule, though for
the younger contingent there are box coats and Nor
folk. The long coat and breeches costume has, of
cjurre, a loosely fitted coat falling past the boot tops,
and when on the horse this coat is held, down to the
knees by straps, so that Its skirt divides and falls
smoothly on each side of the saddle and does not blow
back to show the breeches.
Unluckily these coat aklrta are not always well made
and adjusted, and if they do blow back the breeches
effect Is a trifle startling and extreme for conservative
taste.
feoft, unstarched riding blouses of madras, linen, or
India silk ere worn under the coats, or In the country
may be used with ridins skirts without the oat. The
riding blouse must be of the severest tailored kind and
may have a high turndown negligee collar for Informal
affairs, or a regulation riding stock. The soft India
silk blouse of admlraulo quality provided by the shirt
makers Is Increasing In popularity with equestriennes,
and; Indeed, for all outdoor wear.
Boots of soft tan leather are the coolest for summer
wear, though black boots are always good looking ex
cept with the ten habits.
The derby hat holds first place for winter and formal
equeatrlanUm, but the wldu brim sailor and the con-'
tincntal s lis pes are always popular In summer. English
women like rather a wide brim derby of straw, but it
has not met with great favor In this country, however.
Apropos of English riding, the fact that King George
advocates the cross saddle for women and Is having his
daughter ride aatrlde has given greater stimulus In
England to cross saddle riding, over which a mighty
war ba been waging over there for the last few years.
In regard to motor appart!. practical dust coats and
bonnets are shown at reasonubla cost. Most of the
coata shown ore In serviceable woolens, tweeds, or
homespuns or other qualities of woolens that will wear
well and show the soil but little. The plain serges and
pongees and linens make up prettily, but they show
every spot and muss terribly too. Itftxed tweed is a
much better choice. Most of the coats ere made tx
close double breasted and como across the chest and
high on the neck, even though It may ordinarily run
back In big revers. Even In summer one finds days
when -warmth and atorm protection are needed, and
such a ooat, even if llslu In weight, will. If a sweater
Is worn beneath, do duty until lato in tho fall and for
early spring.
A mohair dust coat is perhaps the most practical and
durable thing for hot weather use. but of course it
hasn't the cachet of silk coats, though by good tailor
ing It may be made a good looking garment.
There are many bonnets designed for hard and dusty
motoring. The best from a practical atandpolnt are
the ones cut with a cape to protect the neck. These
usually have a fullness over tho coiffure aud closed
phirred boiuer ever the face. Many of them have the
flat pieces of Normandy suggestion, giving piquancy to
what would otherwise be a full hood.
b'weaters show much more variety this season than
they once did. One may have them in any length from
hip length to full length and In many shapes loose
coats, cut, belted, and Norfolk. The usual choice Is
vA. S&itrxsxble. Rainy -Pay Costume
a length reaching well down over the hips,
but the longer sweaters brought out pri
marily for motor wear are In much favor
Collars, cuffs, and pocket edges brighten
many cf the sweaters and the smartest of
the hand made models show thfse trimmings
knitted In coarse silk whose coloring Is, of
course, much more effective than that of
wool There are sweaters de luxe made en
tirely of this heavy rllk, and these are attain
ing great popularity In Paris, though only a
couple of models of this type are featured In
the shops here.
For tennis there are many smart little tub
frocks with railor effects. These little frocks
are suitable for general morning wear and
are entirely comfortable and appropriate fof
tennis. The skirts of these frocks must not
be tiK) narrow to permit freedom of move
ment. The loose short sleeves, the low collar, the
large waist are all featured on these prac
tical and good looking models! There are
some one piece frocks shown, and In these
ti e armholes and sleeves allow free play to
" the arm or.d jet are trim and neat.
Ihere are ffparaie tkiits and blouses ga
lnre for tennis or Rolf wear. A favorite model
for such a type cf blouse Is the Norfolk. H
is really a coat ratther than a blouse and Is
usually made In linen with contrasting collar
and cuffe. Tho whlto linen model, with col
lar, cuff, and si nrf of scarlet or of dark blue
silk and belt of patent leather Is much
worn nlth plain skirts of white linen, but
collars and ciiff'J of linen are also e! liked.
The bloune in fitted and belted so looeely that
It lifts with the raising of the arms, et falls
Into place again as the arms are lowered.
White ferge, while not so serviceable for
rough usago as the tub stuffs or mixed
tweeds, Is altogether charming for outing
wear, provided one canceep It clean. There
are pretty ready made suits and one piece
frocks ard reparate skirts of serge offered
at a price so reasona-hlo that it does not seem extrava
gant to have two or three of the kind and so be able
to spare one easily during its trip to the cleaner's.
The simplest of these white serge frocks buttons all
the way up the front. Made with sailor collar and
short sleeves, and worn with scarf or scarf and belt
of relieving col.r. this is attractive, chic, and service
able If the material Is good and tho frock well cut This
same simple model can be made to have in additional
touch of smartness by collars and cuffs of hemstitched
chiffon in color made to lie smoothly over a broad flat
collar and cuffs of the serge or of white silk.
Outing hats are of many hi-pea and kinds, and on
the wholo are more attractive and varied than usual.
Any of the small, close toques are popular and many
of them ate dustproof for summer touring.
The newest lingerie collar for a smart simple frock Is
shaped like a small cape or kerchief, extending aeveral
Inches owr the shoulders and almost reaching the
waistline in the back. In front the ends are cut In deep
points.
Little boleros are chic. They are slightly full and
many' are edged with ruffles and frills of silk. They are
cut low and fastened at the waistline, and are cool and
lovel y.
For the frock of linen there Is a bag made of white
or colored linen to match, either daintily embroidered
or perfectly plain, the only ornamentation being the
owner's monogram.