THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: I JULY 0. 1911.
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Down of wblt chiffon
trlmmad with fllat n&
Tlnelnn lac com
bined. Th aklrt la com
po4 of two flonncta nd
pparcntly faatem at thr
Uft klde, nndar an olabo
rato trlmmlnf of palo Bin
paimBtrl Too ooat 1
a Xionla XTI. modal and la
of pal yallow Bilk bro
cadd oTr In a flowared
Aealgn la pala bluaa and
plnka, with aoft grn foil
richn ahapad oollar
with anda mad of filet
and Talenolannca lace.
Xiefhora bat lined la bin
TWt and trimmed wlta
the aama and pink roiea.
Pink and bine aUk Dlreo-
tolra paraaol, with lonf
pink and blna enameled
handle. Modal from Mar
pain taorolx.
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ARIS. Special Correspondence.) Evening
Kowna and evening; wraps are receiving
more attention than any other clothes at
present. Thla la unuaual for this aeaaon.
It la characteristic of moat of the former
that they have trains and In these trains
and the manner In which they are ad
justed to the gowns there are aome novel
ties. Whereas during the winter trains were transpar
ent, or nearly eo, these new ones are of heavy materials,
velvet, brocades laces lined with fabrics such as gold
brocado, gold or allver tissue and silks upon which are
raised velvet flowers.
Gowns of the most filmy chiffons and tulles hav
trains of changeable velvet. In which one of tl(e colors
appears an the lining. White is the predominating note
of the gown, but the trains rival in color 11 the tinta of
the rainbow, and aome of them are Just as illusive and
ahadowy. Some trains hang from the shoulders anl
are faatened there with clasps of gold, pearls, or other
atones, or if jewels are not desired there are choux of
tulle, or bows with scarf 'ends of chiffon.
In evening wraps of the newest make there la a
tendency to more fullnesa, which In a way justifies their
name, king's or queen's wraps. They look as If they
might be wrapped about one to cover but not -wholly
hide the costume beneata, for although ample they are
all of thin stuffs through which the gown can be plainly
een. borne are of lace, lined with tulle or chiffon, oth
ara are of unllned lace, but showing aome embroidery
about. the upper part and as a border. Some of these
last are beautiful and are costly, almost beyond words.
Beer has a model all of lace of the exquisite shade of
old Ivory which looka aa If It might be an heirloom from '
several generations. On th upper part, forming a sort
of bolero, la some delicate embroidery done in gold
threads, light. enough not to Intel-fere with the beauty
of the lace. The same embroidery extends across the
top of th sleeve, hiding any trace of an arm size, but
at the bottom, where the lace la gathered in slightly,
tnera la a band of heavy embroidery in quite a different
atyle. On the edge of the sleeve la a turn back cult of
orange silk and the aama band, but wider In both the
Ilk and embroidery, appears on the bottom of the cloak.
There la no fastening, for these looae fitting garmenta
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r supposed, and do, hang about one after the fashion
of capes, or If they are caught it la with alngl Invlalbl
hook placed well below the waiat.
A great many chiffon cloaks ahow large, aoft look
ing hoods mad of lace, or even of erepe or silk. The
ar frequently most elaborate affairs, partly covered
with embroidery, finished about their edxea with fringe,
puffs, or ruffles. Most of these hoods are really mor
like capes, for they aro long enough to reach the belt line
and they extend across the shoulders so as to cover
completely the top of the aleeves. They are graceful
ami especially becoming to a slight figure.
Uealde brocade and stripes ther are many coats seen
of changeable tufletas and of chiffon, both plain arid
changeable. Many of these are simply a foundation for
lovely embroidery, some of which is executed In silk,
others In ribbon, others In gold and allver and still oth
era and many In woola. These do not necessarily follow
any particular period in their atyle, but are Intended
solely as a charming note of color for any summer cos
tume. Those of chiffon are generally quite loose fitting
and sleeveless, being Ilk tunlcs.but much shorter. In
fact, they ara frequently worn over tunics, either of
muslin or of embroidered batiste, thus bringing into a
gown three distinct materials, all delightfully com
bined. With th advent of warm weather a great many voile,
taffeta, and light summer silk gowns have appeared
The voile ar among th moat lovely of all, for they
com in charming colorings and -many of them ar pat-
terned and bordered with most artistic and unusual.de
algna. Aa a rule they are made up over some contrasting
ehade of at lk or aatln and nearly always they ar
trimmed with lac and aatln. according to whether or
not they ar Intended to be dresay.
Finely dotted vollea in all the pal tones ar fashion
able mad up almply for morning frocks. They ar gen
erally trimmed with band of aatin and th bodlcea ahow
gulmpes and underaUevaa of fin lace, thla being Ut
still continue to be more frequently seen than anything
else. Black takes the lead of all the colors, but It la in
almost every case combined with quantities of white,
which completely takes away from any too somber look.
Th hat which has been christened for the queen of
England Is a most ohlc and delightful little affair and
only departure from strict simplicity. White voiles,
with stunning borders, ar made over whatever may be
th palest tint in th border, an especially good model
showing a aklrt draped shawl fashion, the two points
hanging on either aide of the fronta and the back show
ing one single point in the center. This atyle showa to
good advantage all the border and la also used for most
of the bodices.
In most of theae gowns aleevea of lac ar ahown
and these ar cither transparent or are provided with
tha. thinnest lining of mousaellne. Lightness is the prin
cipal effect aimed at In these voile gowna and to accom
plish thla the most supple of satin is used for lining
them, and moat of th bodices are free from whale
bones, belts, or anything of the nature. In fact, soma1
of them hav their bodlcea mounted on to chiffon In
place of aatln and if thla Is not sufficiently heavy two
thicknesses ara uaed.
Taffeta la having a great rage, aa much If not mor
than did aatin laat year. In spit of all tha efforts of
th majority of th dressmakers to Introduce all kinds
of shades Into these silk frock, black and dark blue
down having aa
underskirt of black
crepe da chine,
-r.ounted oa a
f o a a d atloa of
whit allk. Th
upper part, la of
b 1 a o k chiffon,
through which tha
white lining
ahowa, and thla la
banded la white
taffeta. Tha lowor
band of taffeta
ahowa a bias fold
f black velvet,
and a almilar fold,
but wider, appears
oa th anderoktrt.
The aeck aV
ci th
fi'a'hd
waa probably choaen out of compliment to he wall ,j,0TM
Buunu iicuiictiiuii mr an eons or smau neaa coverings. -
It Js a capote shape with a rounded crown snd droops h. ?
at either side like a helmet. There la the tiniest possl- ,uk trlazm. 1A
ble brim that turna back, It Is really .nothing more than wld rlrdl li
an apology for a brim, or an excuse for a line of velvet oombinati
or colored straw , to relieve Its severe line. The trim- or,p d, ct.i!I-05
mlng la alwaya the same, no maUer whether the hat la j. Mo4 w
white, black, or any pale color. It consists in a shaped Bt- m
aigrette, which extenda across the front from ear to
ear.
jt js quit high In the center, nine or ten Inches, and
. orly four or Ave at the sides and is shaded from deep
yellow to white, the tips only being of the latter color.
It actually, does resemble a big. lovely, soft crown
and ts fluttering to any face, framing it In these gently '
waving feathery plumes. The prettiest of the models ar
of whit straw with a line of black velvet to mark th
brim an)ia whit with velvet to match they ar charm
ingly youthful looking snd smart.
White hats are the things of the moment and tha new
est trimming consists of imitation feather made of
M
tulle, lace, and mousselins. They are quit out of th or
dinary and also they are quite impossible to describe, for
they must be seen to be appreciated. Borne ar a light
and fragile looking aa thistle down, th tull or lac
being finely plaited and held la place by Ipvlalble wires.
Oowa of Ivors' whit satin, ahowlng a aklrt with )
fall pjrt train.. Tualo mad f Uay eoral bead,
ttpoa which is embroidered a sta dslg-a la errata!
beads. Th sdgs Is aoishad with a crystal bead frtag.
Th upper part of th toads showa a fichu shaped ra
ver, with collar ta the back, mads of ohUToa sad edged
with colored coral velvet. Tha long arm sixes ar
bound wlta th sam velvet. Ta elbow sleeves and
under bodies are of Melln lacs. Modal front Seohof.
David.