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TIIE OMAn A SUNDAY BEE t 'JUNE 4. 1911.
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Mr. Eugene Carroll Kelly, famout as an
American fashion artist, is now in Paris and
has agreed to make for our Sunday edition a
series of fashion drawings. The first of the
series appears today. Mr. Kelly will feature
the very newest note m Paris modes. Every
woman who is interested in the subject of clothes
will be more than interested in Mr. Kelly's ob
servations of the present season's styles.
fP
A.RI3. Special Correspondence. The pret
tiest (own seen at a recent midsummer
opening were those of taffetas mad with
JjL I Utile loose fitting coats and trimmed with
IWtwi snfl puffings and niching of the same. The.
ill V in! fln,shln ucn M th Delts ties, collars,
rf ' , II cults, and occasionally pockets and sashes.
"wo EnntciivB, ior own oi mom inowta
several colors smartly combined, or were embroidered
or dotted "with large French knots.
.There waa one mandarin costume that attracted'
great deal of attention, although It was rather simple,
showing a plain narrow skirt of dark blue silk serge,
with a short tunlo of the same, hanging over a blouse
with pulled sleeapa of chiffon In the same tone. The
tunlo waa confined at the high waist wrtfa a belt of beau
tiful Chinese embroidery, and there were a collar and
cuffs of the same. The girl who showed this) frock wore
moat fascinating hat in the real mandarin shade of
straw and perfectly round with drooping brim. Across
the crown waa passed a black velvet ribbon whloh waa
brought down on either side and hung just over the
ears, the ends being finished with large acorn shaped
ornaments In black and yellow. It waa quite new Idea
In hats, and striking. ,
Another midsummer opening was held at Chary, and
It waa one of the innovations of the week and as thor-y
oughly French as waa possible. It took place in one of
the numerous attractive halls with which Paris la pro
Tided, which waa fitted up with a small and perfectly
appointed theater. Here was performed a one act play
which lasted an hour, the mannequins of the estab
lishment being the actresoes, the play Itself having beea
written especially for them.
The action supposedly took place throughout a day,
beginning In the morning when the pretty young women
appeared In peignoirs and room gowns until they were
dressed to attend a ball at night It was all wonder
fully clever and gave a great opportunity for the wear
ing and showing of charming models of every sort,
from tailored costumes to the most elaborate of even. ng
dresses. It also gave the Invited audience of some hun
dred women a chance to sea the latest things In fashion,
comfortably seated and with nothing to obstruct their
view.
Afterward, like a real entertainment, there was
some delightful music, which a mandolin orchestra
furnished, and everybody was provided with tea and
all sorts of refreshments. As an advertisement It was
far and away better than anything that has been tried
by any of the Parisian dressmakers.
As for the gowns, some were delightfully pretty
and original. There were tailored suits, some made
with short boleros, but not of the old fashioned kind,
for these hung loose, more like little capes with
sleeves. Instead of collars and re Vers, hoods or
double capes finished the neck, those with hoods being
chic, and. furthermore, giving an opportunity for
bringing In a touch of some brilliant coloring in the
lining. Ttrere were other boleros, too, which we fie
belted In, but fully three or four Inches above the
normal waist line. These were quaint in appearance,
for their lower edge showed a finish either of ruch
Ing, puffing, fringe, or grellots, and sometimes of these
last over a puffing.
Batiste collars and cuffs, simply covered with em
broidery, trimmed the necks and sleeves of these,
and when worn with small flower decked hats or those
of tulle and velvet nothing could be smarter. Striped
cheviots and silk serges were the materials most fre
quently used, the latter having quite taken the place
of the popular satins of last season. In spite of all
efforts to Introduce new and odd shades In these silk
costumes, dark blue and black have established them
selves too firmly as favorites to be displaced. Three
out of every four costumes were In one of these two
colors, and the only odd shade which seemed to find
admirers was a deep biscuit color, which, wb.n
trimmed with either black dr white, la smart
One of the models seen at Chary, was of this char
acter, the material being a satin crpe, yellow, through
which seemed to run threads of pink. The skirt was
plain, close fitting, and Just touching the ground, and
over it hung a short tunlo In a delicate shade of old
pink silk muslin. This waa quite covered with em
broidery done In fine yellow silk braid and an equally
One one of silver, but the pattern was spreading and
Irregular, so that the underdress could be seen well
This dreas was Intended for afternoon, and there waa
a dear little chemisette of the pink musllif, finely
tucked, and made with a square Dutch neck, with a
narrow embroidered band to finish It n
In evening frocka the variety this year seems to
be greater than ever before, for they are being shown
In half a dosen different periods and In Just as many
styles that are typical of no one time. There are
gowns with detachable trains that have been named
the Josephine, and others called the Mine. Recamler
that look like a scarf that is loosely caught and then
allowed to trail along the floor. Borne of thee, are fin
ished with tassels, others are trimmed with bullion
fringe, and nearly all are more or less embroidered.
Jhk!?,Y.qU"Ue Chlfron ov'" lh,t trimmed
with broadcloth, a mixture that seems odd but when
properly p-t on has much style. There are gowns
4 la Greek with etunnlng girdles of seed pearls that
k "... th fl00r nd oth" whlca clasped on
shoulder, ana at th. w.l.t by beautiful cam.o. o, by
cut crystal ornament, that ar. changeable like the
gowns they trim.
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tratlon of this and an attractive one. The gown waa
of bright cerise chiffon, made with a mounted skirt
In which appeared a good deal of fullness. At the
bottom, however. It was as narrow as the regulation
width, and In place of a hem waa an outside facing
of fine white batiste, which served as a veiling for
the chiffon. Above this waa a wide insertion of the
thinnest batiste, showing English eyelet embroidery,
and scattered at Intervals over this were large star
shaped motifs done In cerise colored silks.
The bodice carried out the same Idea, the principal
part of It being chiffon, which waa trimmed with
banda of plain batiste and at the top and as a finish
for the sleeves appeared the Engrllsh work.
Another odd combination waa shown in a costume
seen at Rlvan's In which the skirt was of coarse white
linen trimmed with several narrow bands of 'blue, yel
low, and blaok striped silk serge. Instead of a bodice
there was a little coat, close fitting about the hips,
and short The stripes went up and down as far as
th. waist line, and from there they were put on the
other way like a wide shaped flounce. It is the first
model of this kind seen, for usually the coals are
made In plain colorings with striped or checked skirts.
It seemed last season as If every conceivable kind
of bead trimming had been thought of and that noth.
Ing more oould remain that might be called a novelty,
but the latest In this style of trimming is Imitation
beads which are really prettier than the real. These are
made of ootton and In many sisea and some are plain,
while others are oorrugated. They are extensively used
on voile and crpe gowns and make simply charming
trimming, being much softer and more becoming than
either glaas or porcelain. Then, too, they can be had In
all shades. Including black and dark ones, and for trim
ming white gowns black cotton beads combined with
white are stunning. They are generally put on In large
patterned effects, or In bands to edge Insertions of lace.
They are, however, of various styles, some showing
patent leather vamps with buckskin or kid uppers, others
having leather vamps but with uppers of heavy corded
silk, and some women wear nothing but silk boots,
black for the vamps with uppers in fine ribbed or corded
silks, but all white. They are most fetching, but of
course they are an extravagance, for the keeping of
them clean alone is a serious matter, for with those
of silk there 1. nothing but to send them out to b.
cleansed, and this must be done at least every other
day.
Castor shoe. In white and In all the pale .hade, are
being shown for wearing with linen costumes, and there
are also linen shoes, those of surah, of taffetas, and
even of voile and crepe. There are allk shoes covered
with English embroidery and these are not dress affairs,
but are Intended for out of door use. Irish lace and
diet lace shoes are also being ahown as being the proper
thing to wear with summer toilets upon which these
laces appear. In shape these are all somewhat alike,
either fastening In front with ribbons, or showing a
long tongue with a smart flat bow at the top of the
Instep. Cuban heels are more fashionable than are the
long favored French heels and many light colored shoes
show heels of bright leather, red in all shades, bril
liant green aod deep orang being most seen.