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SPRING SIGNS IN MILLINERY
Fancies and Freaks of Fashion as'
Seen in New York.
STUNNING CREATIONS IN COLORS
Helmet Hat. Counldered' "a reach"
and the Tailored Hat "a Dear"
t
Gvuip A Hoot Decorative
Cffect. '
Although the weather hardly warrants
foraaklag one's winter apparel, many New
York women have discarded their winter
hats and aro wearing smart looking straw
effects, even while carrying furs and other
winter clothes.
It seems to be the custom to have one's
first hat a tailored one. With few excep
tions the Kprlntc millinery seen to date
has been rather severe. Coarse straws have
been seen In decidedly bright shades of
blue, red and green 'Individually and col-
leetlvely. The NaHleon effects have
started out stronK. but It is predicted for
' them that with the' hot weather they will
suffer a setback and the shade hat be
more favored.
The hat novelty of the moment Is the
helmet hat In Its many variations. "Days
of old when knlfclits wera bold." are be
ing revived as far as hats are concerned
and all sorts and conditions of formidable
looking head-dnisi'S, peculiar to the days
m.han knighthood' was In flower, are serv
Ings as models for the up-to-date . Easter
girl's bonn,et.
This would argue fur a tendency toward
stiffness In the newest hats. This is true
tn many Instances, but. the soft cap-like
bats have won the hearts of so many
that they cannot be so Quickly ousted from
the field. There are many hata on this
order being shown and the shops report
them good sellers among the medium and
lower price goods. "No ding-a-Ungs" seems
to be the slogan of the trade in general,
for everything is being done to popularize
a more profitable style of headwear, and
one that will require some trimming.
Nevertheless a few straw ding-a-llngs are
finding their way to the market places
scantily trimmed -mm of yore, but it re
quires no stretcn or ine ihibi"iiuu i
know what kind of trade buy ana b
them.
Hrverslble Fronts.
It la always more or less a matter of
uncertainty tl ascerta;n which Is the front
of a hat. or at least since head sixes have
been ao constructed that they fit the head,
such has been the case, but now our per
plexity knows no bounds, for many hats
are reversible, looking equally well front
or back or other way around. Of course.
this la an aid to the saleswoman because
there are four chances instead of one that
a hat will be becoming.
l.ater on. sailors are to be pushed. Some
of those being prepared for after Easter
wear are enormous, and have a tendency
toward flatness, although many brims roll
upward. It is the fashion at present to
decora le lb under brim. There are alili
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no bandeaux,' the trimming being applied
to t ho. brim. Jn some instances the brim,
if not the entire hat, will be veiled with
allover lace. A novelty much In vogue for
this purpose Is an open meafT'vellliiK made
of fine hair braid. This Is decidedly ef
fective in black over a. color, say for ex
ample, bronze or even a burnt straw. A hat
veiled in this way requires practically no
other trimming other than a smart knot
of ribbon, or a simple flower garniture.
There Is no tendency to over docor&tlon
this season. To be sure when flowers are
Ubed to trim they are frequently plied on
In a bewildering assortment of' kinds and
colors, both hot house and field flowers
being used side by side' and in the most
astonishing color combinations, but with
this and a few other exceptions the bats
are comparatively Blmple.
V The Flame la the Thin.
Ostrich, particularly in colors, is being
much used. The manner of its mounting
is many and varied,, but the preference ap
pears to be for back trimmings or for the
feather to face across the crown, If the
hat is a low one. It will be noted that
uncurled feathers axe very much in the
limelight, particularly In colors, whether
they be high or neutral. Smart retailers
report a big demand fur ostrich trimmed
models. Ostrich trimming always suggests
11 large or at least comparatively large hat
and yet this st-asou has given us some
small and medium sized ostrich hats,
which are very acceptable to our sight.
There is for example, the narrow brim high
crown model,, which is at present well
lked. nd often leather trimmed, and
there are numerous Napoleon effeyts that
could not be termed large in comparison
with the enormous platter hats also In
evidenue.
Much has been said and written on the
subject of coral, meaning not only the
color, but the beads. It Is catching the
public fancy and will be a fad that will
last into the summer at least. The best
trade do not take as kindly to the b ads
as do the other class, but the color Is a
favorite and most becoming one when
judiciously used. It is good In combina
tions of blue, grey, ecru and purple aud
Is stunning with black and white, singly
or In comb'nat'.ons. Although the sea
son cannot be designated as a one color
season, for which the trade offers praise,
it has a leaning toward coral and all
warm pink shades, and toward blues and
purples. Indian colorings, notably in
straws and beads, are also enjoying a
run, while there is a decided reluctance
to relinquish black and white.
Tailored Hale.
Among the tailored hata there are many
in this last combination In mllan and
black velvet, black mllan and white wings,
and black hemp with bows of straw hav
ing a border of white it the bow Is black
or vice v
Lengths of "straw ribbon" in all colors
are to be bought in the retail stores
there being just enough for a bow In
each length. The straw Is very soft and
pliable and Is usually about five or six
Inches wide.
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ASTER parade of spring wardrobes is merely
a reminder that summer is at band, and
tbe summer gown is 'waiting; in the shops
for the inspection and purchase of tbe
discerning shopper. This year these gowns
have a charm which is different with each
BE
gown. This is a year when no one style is
featured at the expense of all other styles, but when sev
eral distinctive ideas find distinctive expression in the
different gowns sent out by the foreign experts. It is,
in a word, a season when woman is given an opportunity
, to express her own taste and discrimination in the selec
tion of models which please her.
A visit to the Brandeis stores and an inspection of
the imported models, of which the above pictures are
typical, emphasizes the fact of the pleasing variety from
which woman may choose and still be gowned in the
latest mode. A few general tendencies, however, are
observed. The low, round neck effect, the elbow length
sleeve, particularly the kimono sleeve, "predominate.
The tunic effect in skirts continues popular, though the
later novelty, the flounced skirt, is sqown in some of the
most attractive gowns. In this skirt the flounces extend
from Ihe hem to the knee, or Just above, and they are
three inches wide and laid on quite flat, without fullness.
The flounces are either of the principal material or of a
contrasting one. For instance, a satin suit will have
flounces of braid, or lace, or velvet.
Many of the lingerie and other wash dresses have
hems of velvet in some pale color, and tbe elbow sleeves
are' finished in this way, also. The velvet is merely tacked
on and can be removed when the gown goes to the
cleaner. The gowns are simple in line, but elaborate in
material and embroidery. One of the chief novelties,
showing the reign of embroidery, is a lingerie gown of
erable activity and some beautiful ribbons
are being shown. A very effective one
about seven Inches wide was a fine faille
having a veiling of chiffon over It, leav
ing a half-Inch border at either side. This,
like many other fashionable ribbons, comes
high, but ribbon trimmings are wanted
these days and when a New York woman
wants a material she usually guts It, no
matter what the cost. The Idea of using
Ione ri
buslne
pielly
one ribbon over another Is also good for
ess. to say nothing of being ver:
tiy. iwo-faced ribbons are having a
THE OMAIIA SUNDAY BETO: APRIL
HARGARET BELLY- DEm-
-COSTZUTE WITH JACKET, ntlET
chiefly by the use
novelties ror
sale and iake
Trade Review.
stunning bows. Millinery
Dear Fasting.
"The late Archbishop Ryan," said a
rtitladelphlan. "used to rebuke In Ient
those whose fastings and abstinences were
more a matter of form than a matter of
discomfort.
"I once heard the good archbishop tell of
two plump gourmets who were dlHCUssing
duiing Int their favorite fast dishes.
" 'Trout,' said tbe first. wiUi a sigh, 'has
16, 1911.
thin batiste, embroidered with a colored thread. The
Bulgarian blue, or the coral color, are most popular. Tbe
silk slip worn with such gowns always matches the em
broidering in color, as do the shoes and stockings to be
worn with them.
Another of the gowns is indicative of the favor in
which' the bead embroidery is held. The Indian bead is
used to outline the color in tb,e embroidery. The beauty
of the gown is increased by the use of torchon lace, as a
flounce on the skirt. The beads are used In embroider
ing both marquisettes and voiles.
One gown, which is embroidered in light blue, has
turquoise blue beads to emphasize the color. .
However, it is authoritatively stated that this is to
be a white summer. White coats are to be given first
favor and white gowns are to be given preference by the
discerning dresser. Touches of color w ill be added, but
of embroidery.
tne summer are one-piece dresses o
white corded silk. The silk used is supple, and though
the gowns- are tailored, they are made with the low,
round collar, and very short kimono or magyar sleeves.
The popularity of the round collar and the kimono
sleeve extends to the waists. Tbe newest of those shown
Is the "Tunic-Waist." These waists are usually made
Empire shape, and the tunic is quite long, giving a grace
ful effect. Those made of all-over embroidery are most
attractive. They are made invariably with the low,
round neck, and short sleeves. They fasten all the way
down the back, with tiny buttonholes, or they sometimes
slip over the head and button on tbe top of the shoulders.
Plain tailored waists of white china silk are in great
favor for both spring and summer wear.
The black velvet sailor collar is a touch which adds
to the smartness of the tailored wash suits. Silver but
tons are another latest fancy.
gone up, thanks to th high cost of living
and the Lenten season.'
" 'Yes,' said the other. 'Isn't It terrible?
Oysters, terrapin, teal duck, wine, cavter
everything Is dearer! Indeed, I often won
der these days where one is to get the
money to fast with.' "
Why bv Though! No.
"Was your husband a bear
In Wall
street?''
"1 think so." replied young Mrs.
kins. "He certainly ailed like one
ho got home." Washington biar.
Tor-
hen
Shopkeepers, Dressmakers and Hotel
Keepers Smiling.
CORONATION
DRAWING CARD
Many Thousands Expected from the
lnltrd States, the Colonies and
Continent and All -Will
Ilrlnir Fat Pocket boohs.
BY LADY MARY MAN WARRING.
I-ONDON, April 15. (Special to The Bee.)
It Is calculated that this will be one of
the most prosperous years London has seen
In several decades. Toward the latter part
of June money will veritably flow like
water. The government will have spent
II.ikiO.OOO on the coronation, a big sum
wiihln itself, yet only a trifle when torn
pared with the amount that will be spent
from all sources.
Probably 25 00 people, at least, will come
from the continent, from the colonies,
India, the United States end all quarters
of the earth. Many of these will be Im
mensely wealthy, and with their expendi
tures in hotels, on amusements, In pur
chases of pictures, antiques, Jewelry and
clothing, their total outlay will run into
millions. Then London has her own wealthy
citizens, who will spend Kvlshly on clothes,
In entertaining, at theaters and In a dozen
other ways. And lastly there will bo an
Immense concourse of London holiday-
inkers and provincial visitors.
It Is estimated that 1,004 wealthy visitors,
many of whom are Americans occupying
houses here to entertain duiing the coro
nation season, will spend ".O.iO0.00O. Ksti
mates place the total amount that will be
spent at $-i0.4"i5.0uo. The estimates are
placed that In, Ox) wealthy Britons will
spend $50.000,0u0, or about $5,(100 each.
First I.rveo Day Met.
The first court has been fixed for Tues
day, May 9, and It is to be almost exclu
sively diplomatic and official. The whole
of the corps diplomatique will attend, and
the only general presentations will be of
women who are entitled to the privilege of
the entree. All the members of the loyal
family who are In KiiKland will be. present
at this court. The second court, whic h Is
.to be held on the following night, will he
for presentations from the general com
pany. The third and fourth courts are to
be held later In May.
The presentation of the former Miss Viv
ien (iould at court is already a topic of ani
mated conversation In the powerful Ameri
can colony.
A Htrlkint; feature of the coronation
season will be the large number of Ameri
can peeresses who will take u prominent
part in the festivities. Chief among them
will be the duchess of Marlborough, form
erly Miss VamierMU. and Lady I'ecles,
formerly Miss Vivien (Joiilil.
Aiurrlrau Money on Tap.
Lut the list of American hustesses who
will give great parlies during Ihe coming
season Is almost endless. There are the
n
1
U
duchess of Roxburgh, the countess of
Craven and Lady Leith of Fyvle. Lady
Maidstone, a member of the Drexel family,
and Hon. Mrs. Cecil Bingham, once Mrs.
Chauncey, one of the most popular Ameri
can hostesses In I-ondon, whose unexpected
marriage to General Bingham took all her
friends by surprise.
The duchefle of Manchester is another
hostess who la planning big entertainments
at her house In Grosvenor Square. Te coun
tess of Ancaster, also an Anrlean. Intends
to give some big coronation parties. The
young countess of Granard, formerly Bea
trice Ogden Mills, U a favorite with the
royal family, and will certainly be In th
forefront of coronation hostesses. Count
and Countess Laszlo fizechenyl will coma
over to swell the gathering of the Vandor
bllt colony In I-ondon for the coronation.
It Is estimated that Americans who enter
tain duiing the coronation season will be
among the most lavish spenders In Ixmdon
and their homes will be the scene of many
brilliant social functions during the coro
nation period.
A Inrge number of Irish, and Scotch pre
sentations will be made at the courts which
are to be held at Dublin ?astle. and at
Holyhead house In July, and this arrange
ment has considerably reduced the num
ber of names on the lord chamberlain's
lists.
Investiture of Wales.
Official arrangements have been an
nounced for the historic and poetical cere
mony of the Inv&stlture of tho prince of
Wales. The ceremony will take place July
13 at 2:30 o'clock when the prince will ba
Invested of governmental authurity by King
George V.
The (ueen will also be present. Their
majesties will arrive off Holyhead on board
the royal yacht, ami at Ihe appointed tima
will proceed by train from Holyhead to
Griffith's corner sttiticn.
The king will tieiform the ceremony of
Investiture, and the religious serVlce will
bW conduc ted by the bishop of liagnor and
a representative minister of the Noncon
formist church. There will be singing by
a choir of 400 voices.
De ftotrral on Hand.
The Maruuls de Soxe.rul has been an in
teresting visitor to HandliiKham an la
termer years, when he was a favorite at
the late, court, being in uttendaucn regu
larly at the parties given by King Kdwaid
and iueen Alexandra and was well re
ceived. It will bo remembered that at the
time of the young king's ascension to the
throne of l'urtugal that monarch was re
ported to have desired return to Portugal
as his right l.;ind man. hut that, at the re
0,uest of Kind Kdward and yiiecn Alexan
dra was allowed to remain In attendance
at the court of St. James. Who knows bet
what ih history of the lll-la'ed house of
Ilraganza might have been differently writ
ten had he been allowed to return? Ths
marquis hit really been bo long In residence
in tins country that, he muM feel more at
home here than on his native heath.
any rale. It Is tiiinh more pleasant te
spend one's i lines in the company of a
hostess like tjueen Alexandra than dodging
bombs and fighting revolutions In Portugal.
t
