TRE OMAHA SUNDAY I1KE: MAltCII
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ITS
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cAn Effori s Baina flfade torfeestaZIjsA Ae
Skirt and Sleeves. TAis Tendency Is Shown in FA 2
(Town Which Is Buili oP Foulard cf the PoPuTarDuII
3Iuq Shade, Veiled 'i n ChiFIon ofiheSame Tone
YrtJ Idun TucAs Are a Feature of&Ae Trimming.
HE woman who marches with the mod la
now deep In the work of planning; her
il summer outnt. me first thing she must
I reconcile herself to Is that the waist 11 n
Is not, as was predicted, to go back to its
normal position. Far from moving to the
lower level, so strenuously advocated hy
French modistes, who had pinned their
faith upon the revival of the Ixmts XV. fashions, the
waist line seems bent upon going upward.
Apart from the short waists, which always seem to
throw the whole figure out of proportion, tlie newest
modes show already a great many good features.
In skirts everywhere is an Indication to greater full
ness shown, not only In the region of the hem, but also
Immediately below the waist line, thus insuring a cer
ts i.i amoui.t of comfort
All the smartest tailor costumes are arranged with
coats that extend only a few short Inches below the
waist. There la a fancy, too, for onesided effects, a
tatch pocket on the waist line on the left and none at
all on the other side, a collar of decided erratlo tenden
cies, widening only at one side Into revere and a slant
Ing fastening In front, fastened with tortoise shall but
tons, set close together.
At the back, though all these coats are short, the
effect secured Is of long and graoeful lines, a sugges
tion cleverly devised by a flat straight panel which
begins between the shoulders and meets the skirt panel.
Thus the grace of the long coat la retained and at the
same time the craving for novelty Is satisfied. The
sieeves to most of theee suits just cover the elbow and
are finished with cavalier cuffs.
In the evening and aeml-dress frocks everywhere the
revealing straight skirts are shorn n. In a word. It Is
the simplicity in line that Is to rule. Even the coiffure
must match the figure, and not over-weigh it. Thus
the head must have the simple lines of the Greek
statue rather than the cumbersome one of the mush
room. To the rumor of the Turkish divided skirt but
lit tl consideration should be given; It Is simply a fore
runner of the fuller skirt tendencies. -
With these fashion points In view, one should take
into consideration the fashionable silhouette for sum
mer. The summer silhouette conforms to the human
form divine. The humps and ridges and bulges and
ripples of other days are not to be thought of. The
tratght, flat effect is the thing.
In fabrics it promises to be a silk summer, though,
of course, such material as serge. lightweight cheviot,
tweed and suiting novelties axe to be. as they always
are, In good etyle. but even with these materials a silk
thread will be found running through the more high
priced grades. It la generally In self color, but it is
there If you will only stop to look for It.
In colors, blue everywhere leads. Navy blue heads
the list; following oloeely upon it come the many nov
elty blue shades, king's blue, all the peacock blues, the
dull blues, the grey blues, the old fashion baby blue
every possible shade ct blue Is to be smart this mm.
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Blue yIkss3J2nz wiiJi Thnminas
lEoiij?? Straw 7ri mined wiiA Poses
SrewXan? Handled Sarasols
mer. Following close after the blues are the whites.
White serge promises to be a positive fad this sum
mer, and white will be much used In combination with
delicate colors, such as white with light blue or with
pink, ecru pongee shades and the grays, so light that
It Is almost pearl.
The pat green, the bright emerald green. Is featured
for the fashionable evening- shade and Is shown In
chiffon or marquisette over cloth of gold quite fre
quently. This green Is also shown combined with white
or with black.
Before making the selections fog your summer clothes
sit down for a few momenta and take stock of your
clothes, an Inventory of your failures and successes.
Make a mental note of bow well you look In one thing
and how 111 you look In another. .Think over the kind
of neckwear that is most becoming- to your face -and
the evening frock that has the least becoming decolle
tage. No woman can liope to be well dressed If she does
not bring an analytical mind to her clothes and a re
trospective one as welL No matter how simple a
woman dresses, if she la well turned out you will find
her, upon Intimate acquaintance, e woman of settled
convictions and wide knowledge about clothes for her
self. She may not be able to talk about this new etyle or
that epoch In clothes or the origin of fashion, but aha
Is quite able to Inform you what kind of a collar should
go under her face and whether her brow or nose can
stand a theater cap and if her evening gown should be
cut square or V. And, mind you. any womaa who
knows tilfi has the fundamental principles of right
dresflntf. T'he woman who simply knows how to follow
a good trnl of sty is or buy what is offered as the
latest Xu iio . tlie woman to whom to go for advloe
about clothna. The woman who knows herself, her
limitations and possibilities. Is the woman who gains
the reputation of knowing bow to dress.
When you are planning your summer outfit don't con
sider what looks well on the other woman. Oo over
your own wardrobe carefully and figure out why some
of your gowns were characterless and failures, while
others were Individual and a success. Which frock
do all your friends tell you Is most becoming? Put
1. on and stand between two mirrors and look at It In
a new light. View It for line.
There Is always a reason back of any success in
frocks. Take the lines of hls successful frock and
adapt them in the future to others. Carry them well
in your mind as a settled conviction of what you can
werv Unless a woman Is color blind and line igno
rant she knows the minute she tm not looking her beet
In a wrap or a frock.
Often a collar of a blouse will ruin a frock or a suit
because it Is dull In' tone and did not supply that nec
essary touch of color near tV face. All these are Im
portant facta to think about when planning the au-ui-ner
outfit.
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5 OP&Iue Foulard and Du7 flue'
SiZ&. One oftAe Smarl dzpanese
TanascJsjn Oriental Cchrs fs
Carried. MacA1 Satin Thmps
Then there Is the eternal hat question. Hats that
are worn now lack the enormous brim that droops at
th'i back and completely hides the neck. Among the
smaller hats coming to the fore the b el met shape seema
to lead. Hats of this type were launched at the end
ing of the winter eeaaon and are being more and more
used In the early spring millinery. The early helmet
ahapes had rather large, high, round crowns and nar
row brims that slored down from the base of the
crown, and then frequently curled up all around. In
thu newest development of this shape the brim slopes
down from the crown and Is pinched into a little peak
in front, while at the side It Is much deeper.
The lateet innovation in hat shspea Is the removable
crown, which Is attached to the brim by means of
hooks and eyee placed at the front and the back. These
were brought out In consequence of the strong vogue
for flowered crowns. Where the latter Is desired the
crown Is removed and a wire crown covered entirely
with flowers Is substituted. Turbans and crowns made
entirely of flowers are a strong fashion note. June
roses are favorites for the purpose, with violets not
far behind.
J'oul&rds and Tunic Jl re That uivd
2Tt AH ihe ffisA Orade Imported q
Models ,i
Another striking millinery note is the envelope bat.
This without doubt Is evolved from the Napoleon or
blcorne bat The brim. Instead of forming two points,
one at each side, forms only one at the rlgfU side front,
as It Is turned up at the front, left side, and back.
Inclosing tho crown like an envelope. The back portion
of the brim is much higher than the front and Is fre
quently lapped over the crown and edge of the front
portion of the brim, forming a pointed corner at the
right front. The tendenoy to place the trimmings at
tiis back Is everywhere shown. There are two modes
of arranging the trimming. In one the trimmings are
more or less upright, in the second the trimmings are
placed horizontally. I watched a young girl buying a
liat the other day. This fair Angelina placed first one
model and then another upon her fluffy yellow hair,
viewing herself at all r.gles tn the mirror. She was
thinking not so much of what she wanted as of what
Algernon would like.
It Is Algernon that complicates the problem of the
summer hat. For there is always an Algernon. Kvery
Angelina Is thinking of an Algernon as she critically
views the effect of a willow plume or blush roses. And
so this little Angelina, as she petulantly pushed aside
a tulle toque and took up a big plume laden affair, won
dered a bit wearily Just which would most Impress Al
gernon. 4c
"Algernon likes dashing girls," she thought as she
fixed the plume wreathed picture hat at a becoming
angle above her saucy face. "I have sen him watch
them on the street." She gazed meditatively at the ex
pensive beauty on her head.
"But then," she further meditated, taking It off and
putting on the smart little tulle toque, " I heard him
say once that Alice Markhain always dressed like a
lady and not like an actress, and Alice always wears
smart little hats. Now, I wonder " she gazed long
at the refleotlon In the glass with the snug little, hat
resting on the soft, yellow hair.
The saleswoman changed wearily from one foot to
anoher.
"Perhaps you would' like this." fche offered Angelina
a mammoth straw hat, bristling with wings.
Angelina took it Indifferently and put It on. She
didn't look at her reflection at all. Trying It on simply
helped to pass time while she was deciding. The sales
woman brought a half dozen more hats and Angelina
obligingly tried them on. She had a mountain of lints
about her In the course of fifteen minutes, and all the
time she was wondering which Algernon would like
better the big one with the plume or the little one with
the single large rose. Finally she tried the two on
again and gaied long and earnestly at her reflection.
She looked dashing In the big one. demure In the little
one. Poor little Angelina! She could have wept, not
being able to decide Juet which one Algernon would
favor the more.
"I I don't think I'll take any," she finally faltered.
She had come to a decision. She would wear her old
hat a bit longer and take more careful notes than ever
before of Algernon's tastes. She would draw him out.
She would comment on big hats and little hats, on
dashing girls and demure girls. She would know for
sure. She was perfectly willing to be either. She went
out with a light atop and happy face.
The saleswoman slapped the hats back on their
stands with subdued muttering.
And Algernon? Bless you. he never thought of bon
nets. Moral: Dress to bring out your own good points and
not to please the taste of a husband or sweetheart or
anybody else.
Beads are used to a great extent on all materials
games, silks, linens, cottons, and wools. Often one
bead la placed atop another, a large one, to simulate
the petal of a flower.
Pointed toes, high heeled shoes of black varnished
leather with gayly polished tops bright green, blue,
and violet, with stockings to match are eagerly
adopted by the women In search of novelty.
A high turban, meeting In a point at the top and
t rimed with a straight aigrette, has been so popular
In the midwinter that 1t is not surprising to note Its
return in fascinating straw form.
Foulards, mohairs, granite cloths, and real Indian
cachemlres, wov en with the traditional dark hairs' al
tered over the surface, are now being turned Into smart
tailored costumes and other daytime gowns in the ate
liers of the designers.
A pretty novelty In wrist bags is made of embroid
ered peacock eyes, cleverly worked so as to reproduce
the glistening, changing oolor effects of the real feath
ere. Fringed with iridescent beads, it Is lined with
rich silk of the same lovely changing tones.
The silhouette in the new gowns remains much the
same, the skirts are narrow and the kimono sleeve Is
slightly raised in the gowns as well as in the newest
French tailor made suits, and in these nothing is more
noticeable than the short, Jaunty length of the coat.
livening gowns have changed their colors. There has
been a deUded adoption of vivid colors. The lovely
"dead" shades have had their day.
