TTIFv OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MAKCII 12. 1011.
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BY MARY JBUEE,
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, a Tittxcoat TrJJ
Blade oL2-i FZ7xte5illjf. Tciac 0
TrimJnfi jvxthi. 2acJc iZi:
itttoM5, I?od.xce Is Veiled itrx -the
fled- and Cjpexrts Oyer trfj.z9tcoa.-t of
23 triHtr JFlvce Satin . The Bodice -Is
TvimtTved. vritlx aWhite7txlle Fx'ctxvr
im brci-iere(z injflaclc arxd J?lze.
Th.e Clio? fe Sleeve, h.ov Deep
Cx.ff of trii?ed. Gill
Special Corrponiloiice.l Trou
his? YfH, me are shIhk to w.ir them.
TIuto 1nn't the sllirhust iloubt atmut It.
Tluy are coming, one may almKt Bay
tiny have already arrived, and they are
so fusclnuiintr, to alto-etlier new and
rliic anU dllTt-rent frim anythinu that has
titm htiown ua for agea past that they
r taking 1 ke wlldriTe.
. Kveryhoily In allowing them. Worth the i-onventlnnal.
Diioet Hie ultra relintd. l'uuuin Uie daithliii? and linld.
l lret the extremist, aitd In fact all the lowf list of
thoe who are resiionsihle for fashions, whether good or
bad. Jt h the ttrangext mode to have had lta origin
In rails where a fashionable un'ragel la unknown,
where pretty wouien only care to wear the latest styles
In clotheH and to lo..ik iretty In thejn, and do not con
cern theiiicflves a braaa farthlnv'a worth whether or
not th.y have tho risht to vote or are slven any aort of
frumhiiie.
N'ow these dalnty rarialenne are to be the first to
wagtser aUout In Karmenls tliat their atrong minded
lstera of other oountrli would have alven much to
have been prl llred lo wear and which, during all them
years past they have been denied. It only goea to
prove that one may dare anything if only one keepa In
tiie fashion, for nothing else counts.
Humors that theve supposedly Impossible articles of
wearing appjrel were aixmt to iasue from the atellera
et lae great coutuncre liave beea la the air for some
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km
fewvweeka, but the correspondent of TBI Tribune hears
many each rumors, mostly of no value whatever, that
such a one produced no Impression. She remembered
the days of her youth when a divided skirt on the golf
links nearly created a panic, and when a delightfully
smart pair of knickers worn by one of Chicago's most
fashionable young matrons made such a sensation that
the young matron In question, unable to endure the
looks of surprise, even If mingled with those of envy
or adtnlratlon, was compelled to abandon her stunning
little garments and return to a more demure and con
ventional style of dress.
Therefore the Idea of a divided skirt or a pair of
trousers having the courage to appear boldly In the
Bols, the Chimps Giyseee or the Hue de la Palx seemed
so far out of the question tliaf1t was not worthy of
being considered. iFrench women In such masculine
raiment, never, so she thought, and conviction has only
come after a round of visits to the most elect.
Hechofr-Davld, it was said, had made the first divided
Fkirt for the crown prlnoess of Germany previous to
her Egyptian trip, a rumor that sounded fairly plausi
ble, as It Is well known that this pretty young member
of royalty has decided taste, buys her clothes In Parts,
and is chic and Independent enough to wear what she
likes. So to Bechoff-David In the Place Vendomo a
visit was made.
Kotli men were polite and expressed their Joy In being
.llo to say that they had the honor of the patronage
jf the crown princess, "a most delightful customer,
n ml one whom it was a pleasure to dress." Rut a
divided skirt, that they could not remember. They had
them and the "Jupe culotte " also, and these they would
lie glad to show, and did.
Divided skirts of all varieties were brought out for
Inspection, followed by trousered tailored coetumes and
those for afternoon and even for evening wear. Won
derful they certainly were, and curiously enough they
were feminine as well. They had all kinds of touches
of embroidery, sashes, apron fronts and draperies until
one almost lost sight of the fact that they were trous
ers. According to the gorgeous saleswoman at Paquln's
Mile. Polaire Is not at present wearing divided skirts or
tro.isirs, but that she eventually would do so she was
sure, everybody would wear them, they were to be the
thing and women who now shuddered at the mention of
these articles would, she felt sure, before the season
was over take to them as they had to the "Jupe sera,"
which as "Madame well knew" had created conster
nation among the grands monde when It was first pro
jected. '
Naturally the tailored costumes made with divided
skirts, or with cunning little trousers, will be the first
to be seen abroad, and these are being shown now made
of serge, of rachemire de lslne and other spring mste
rials The divided skirt or the trousers are Invariably
of satin, but not necessarily of a heavy quality. If It
is a skirt h Is narrow, the division coming up nearly
t the knees, and the lower edge finished with a facing
of some thick but soft goods.
If It Is trousers a tiny bit more fullness Is allowed,
and this Is then drawn In slightly about the ankles,
the material being first turned up underneath so that
the drawing In does not show. This gives them a
baggy look, whlob Is the thin required. Tbs upper
J
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WWk
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Atterrxxn ifovm
Silk. The Vnetet? Ia.rf
Is TladLe with Tzottxt?i
Qathezed. in Shdhtly
&rut Qvcite Sh.or't
In the fontanel Pack
Ave Iforuf Hixiel
SocLi.ce I5 Sh'dhtiy
BlowsecL over- a Belt of
Folded. Jfflacfc aiira ,
Which 15 Crvssed. iri
the Muck a rul ffwuli
AxvvctvI -to the Hcotit And Ktiotrtec.
cm tint Ififtit Side wih &3sh Ends.
It Is Trimmed -with 'Filet t,a.ce
end fas cz Crui-tnipe of Thin Tvelle,
Tine Slee-rets Hav a Slide Out ft
dad I see Jfz ffles
part of these costumes, whether they are of oversklri
form, or a tunic, fit closely about the hips, and are mads
in the same way as would be any other costume In
tended for the street. Dark blue serge of a coarse
loose weave Is the most popular, and the tunic or over
skirt Is generally trimmed with braid.
The coats, which form part of the dress, are all short,
scarcely covering the hips, and they are loose box
affairs, natty and smart. Some are braided and many
have large plaques of embroidery done In bright col
ored wools, put on In unexpected places. Boleros, too,
will be worn with these skirts and trousers, and these
are made somewhat differently from those of several
seasons ago. Most of them are short walsted, much so
in the back, and the trimming Is arranged on them to
give them a still shorter appearanee. (irellots of wool
frequently edge them and from beneath silts In the
front may be seen the blouse of bright chiffon, or of
embroidered net.
Bee Idas blue serge and other self toned fabrics, they
re showing some of Chess suits made of black and
white checked goods made over a skirt, or trousers of
black satin. The check Is usually of the broken sort,
Uiat U not too pronounced, and they are severely plain
ill ' jm-, 1
In their finish, a touch of satin on the collar and cuffs
and that Is all. These make the most sensible every
day costumes that can be Imagined and they will un
doubtedly take.
For afternoon wear there are all sorts of silks and
satins to be seen, but the newest and prettiest are those
of changeable taffetas. They are shown In all combina
tions, dark, light and medium, so that they can be as
dressy as one likes, or as simple. Trousers seom to be
more favored for these gowns than divided skirts.
Partly to rover them are long panel shaped pieces, made
of the same material, but trimmed In various ways.
These extend from the mounded waist, back and front,
the panels being half a yard, or more wide. They are
edged with ruchings of silk, sometimes pinked out and
put on full, with narrow fringe, with grellots or with
lacs, both gold and silver. Occasionally these panels
are embroidered as well as trimmed, or they will show
some embroidered motive put on to the front, one well
toward the lower edge and another at tk line of the
waist In the back.
The bodices are similar to those of any other gown,
which may be made with the regulation skirt. They
have gulmpes of the thinnest lace or tulle, fichus of
batiste, trimmings of lace and above all embroidery.
They are Invariably short walsted, but mane are pro
vided with wide sashes, which pass twice about the
belt, are knotted either at the right or left side over the
hips and then hang half way down tho side.
Chiffon Is going to play an Important part In the
fashioning of the "Jupe culotte " and this material com
bined with silk Is being shown In some simply lovely
frocks. White silk taffetas, trimmed with scarfs of
black chiffon, black and white striped draped In brilliant
green chiffon, black, over which hang floating ends of
bright royal purple, are some of the combinations seen,
and each as one looks seems better than the other. The
fulotte are always of the silk, and once In a while
these are veiled but lightly, with black or white muus
selHie de sola
New articles of attire wtilch these divided skirts and
"Jupe culolte " will bring Into unusual prominence are
shoes and stockings. Already some of the dressmakers
are paying attention to these and are showing the
proper foot covering to be worn with these gowns. Silk,
satin, linen, batiste are the materials most seen to be
worn for dress occasions, and It Is Imperative that In
color, at least, they shall match the gown.
The style most In vogue showa a sandal effeot, pro
duced by straps, reaching a llttre above the ankle. The
straps are narrow and they are caught with tiny buck
les, or with roeettes so small that one wonders how
they are made. There are two strapped models to he
seen, one having a number of strapa, the other only
three. With these last the stocking st once takes an
important place, for these then are frequently of a
different color, or of a different shade of the same tint.
With some of these dress shoes gold dotted stockings
are worn, or those upon which are designs of golden
flies, stars, all small and set rsther close together.
Still more to carry out the Illusion of a sandal these
strapped shoes are not provided with the regulation
French heel, but with one that is much lower, although
It curves well under the foot. The vamps are longer
than ordinary, the Idea betas; to five a slender, long
&
'Tciiloir'ed Cb-Sttixrxe Showing Troupers
cf PZs.cfc 5"itzr Ainct Tctmc And. Co3.tr
of Jkvk Blue Setrp e .The Ttmc and.
toaf aw Trimmed Vfith &2acl Jfraid
And the Co.tH-3-s Triangle Shared'
7Totif of J3pilli3.nt Wool Embroidery
en One Side of -the Front. The Coot
arid Sleeves Ojrerx at the $ ides and
Show a JOKMe Fbw of Jfccttons. Cf
appearance to the foot. In slippers too this same Idea
holds good, these being made long and pointed with low
or medium heels. They sre, however, covered with em
broidery, most of It beautiful.
Small hats seem to be the only ones suitable to b
worn with " Jupe culolte," and to go wltu thee they
have brought out some miniature turhans made of wido
straw braid, or of other straw that is supple, and Is
shaded. This lut Is new and Is especially well adapted
to be worn with changeable silk fmok.s.
The trimming of these hats Is either some fancy
feather ornament, whl:h Is put on at one side, and
stands somewhat away from the brim, or It Is a single
ornament of metal, paaseftnenterle or embroidery, which
decorates the hat directly In the center. With all nf
these little affairs the hair shows over the . f orehead
and at the sides, and some are so small that In the back
they admit of a row of little coik-.-.. rew curls being
seen.
Another' novelty In the glove line has the hand por
tion of undressed kid and from the wrist to the elbow,
or above, a close fitting sleeve of black or white lace.
They are lovely and as they can be made to be oist
expensive will probably be the rata