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HOWKRS of tiny white porcelain bead. Yc V " ' . i ' . n J sW NC 17
! which look as If they had been rough cast VtV skSV . V " ' " Js ViV
over the material and by some mysterious jf ' V kS. - ' ' , OkAlX
VmV agency caused to adhere, to the background. F "V evs ' V.-Yw - fyi&r HfcN
"7 are a feature of the trimming effects In f i ' i S? ' ' '' ' I ' ! : X
Kii'-i? the newest blouses. That this tiny mlnla- jg J tL8 f W w .
"""JJJl. ture- hailstorm Is sewn bead by bead to the g "SI aSSSSiS8' tC !i , ,. 5 ' v
material II adorns nils one with admlra- g f J - y'..::"" f ? X
tlon for the patience of the needlewoman. g f ' v - , TtX1 '
Those wee round porcelain beads are particularly at- g V ' MrTrrfP1 t I V ' .
tractive In Hie pastel pink coral shades massed In soltd g X Turnri Tnre X """
form of broadiands tipon a white baikground and there - &irForr Hr X
re few iroro charming evening coraagea than a black g J a, Tf ' ' r
liet one sew n with soft yellow beads In flower and m Wj. . Jfca V 4 ,
folla.ge design and frkiKed to match part of the toilette M I f w L :-...-
In which black and gold are blended cleverly. Then, m I r V,l ..i-i;.:: 'J3rv,
too, there are many shndes of blue beads used. "m 13 jr B jt-, v
There have been svasons w-hen the separate blouse i' Cfyt ' ' " 1
was on the whole more elaborate, but never has there 'v' vV 6 aj3l. i ' J R
been a season when It has been more effective. yf " -. V : s 1 Z m , , B
The collarless blouse Is still with us. Though chla J , ?i . ' ' -. A Jpto? J ;' i t .9
Parisian! have taken up the collarless models from Jr . ? , y ... ' i . ij
the start with enthusiasm there are always women even J : . -'' t.l 544 I yy. I T 4, 1 j
In Paris who refuse to adopt unbecoming modes and jT ''''''$'-&$r'' '' I I .11 :' .j y a 'Sf1 V I
Jn America there are plenty of well dressed women who -k SC . ' ' .' Jt? ' 1 1 Vtiill " Vjf vL? 0, 4 V
liave Uiem mcdined by the add '"V J
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The bodice of ottoman nlk. It has a
binding of velvet about the neck and bands
of the same around the upper part of the
Jeeves. Small velvet button extend down
the outside of the sleeves and the center of
the front. This bodice ii unlined and is
J'ld at the waist line by ft bead of velvet
4 and rjf. .ilk. There are two small velvet
I ruettes (a front.
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rather than display an unbeautlful throat In the piti
less light of day.
A walk through the shopping district on any bright
afternoon will make the casual observer wurti that more
women were blessed with a knowledge of their limita
tions. When the collarless blouse Is becoming It Is
charming, but few women past their teens wear It well
1m connection with a ..Inter street costume with revers.
collars. It makes one shiver with apprehensions of
pnuumonla to see the stream of frigid blue necks ex
posed to winter gales this season. And even where
the effect of a low neck tailored costume Is attractive
from the front view, often there Is nothing to soften
the hard line of the tailored collar against the bare
neck around the sides and back. The ordinary tailored
coat worn with a collariess blouse la a lamentably un
becoming thing from every point of view except In
front.
If one fancies the collarless blouse for winter wear
the hard collar line should be softened by a lingerie
frill or lace collar falling over the tailored collar and
coming next to the throat. There are a number of such
collars In all grades of fineness.
The peasant line and thej veiling idea have strongly
Influenced the designers for the late winter and early
spring blouses. Nine out of ten of the prettiest models
shown for spring ore of chiffon, silk, mousseline, or
marquisette. The Idea Is not new, but the treatment
Is, for the blouses follow the frock lines, and the best
looking of the veiled models are exceedingly simple In
line .And have most of their elaboration. If elaboration
there la. applied to the foundation, while the sheer
veiling either hemstitched or beaded is arranged in the
most pronounced simplicity.
The peasant model continues the prime favorite. Often
the Bheer veiling material is cut plain, though some
of the models have little plaits on the shoulders. Some
w,Jht trimming finishes the round or I' shaped neck
and the sleeves and usually dainty little underaleeves
and a shallow, collarless guimpe are to match.
Sometimes when the collarless effect Is not desired,
instead of Introducing a guimpe the veiling chiffon or
mousseline Is run on top to form a perfectly plain
yoke and a collar, semi-transparent, of course, and per
haps relieved by a line of white or cream at the top.
Often as many ha three veilings of chiffon are used
In order to secure a desired color scheme. One of the
best looking costume blouses seen was made to wear
with a black broadcloth ault and was of black chiffon
over brilliant radium blue chiffon and this was over
American beauty chiffon which In turn veiled white.
The bordered chiffons are used for some attractive
little blouses of simple line, a surplice arrangement
with the modified peasant sleeves being a design often
choaen for these materials. I'erslun or cashmere silk
eiled in plain chiffon, cashmere chiffon veiled In plain
chlffcn and cashmere chiffon or mousseline In exquisite
soft tones without veiling are popular blouse models
and much Is done with charming antique printed cot
tons or cretonnes veiled In plain chiffon or made up
without veiling and softened by net or lace collars snd
frills and touches of black In cravats, buttons, pipings,
and other trimming.
The newest models In the handsome handmade lin
gerie are composed of heavy soft handwoven linen, beau
tifully embroidered In the open work and combined
with the sheerest of lace.
There Is a wonderrul unity in the up to date sleeves,
nearly all of which are cut along the peasant Hue.
The armhole fur the last couple of seasons has been
quite In eclipse save under the arm. for if the sleeve
and shoulder are r.ot cut in one trimming Is often applied
so as to give that effect. In the majority of the models
the underarm section of the bodices is cut high and a
gusset let into the unders'eeve so that there is no larg
armhole and the free movement of the arm is not in
terfered with, but other models show a slightly en
larged armhole with draped or bloused effect.
Other dressy models are made of tapestry In pastel
colorings, veiled with chiffon In harmonising shade.
In rainy of these models the narrow lace yokes and
undersleeves are made by shirring this soft material
over gold or silver cord.
Band trimmings of every description, braided, em
broidered, and appliqued, are the Idol of the designers
at the prescat Unii. Even laAie dglngi are used la
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The bodice and overs kirt are made in
one piece. The waist line, which is hih, is
marked by two narrow velvet cords. Just
at the bust is a wider band of velvet which
extends entirely around the corsage. . The
upper part and small short sleeves Are of
iy?imri-wQ3 of GoZD ,
ban'd style and nets of all varieties are cut Into bands
and used as lnsertinga where there Is a necessity of
matching the lace of the yolte and sleeves. The em
broideries are wonderfully rich, whether In silk, metallic
threads, or in beads. Never have such stunning trlm
mlngf been offered In the shops. Gold and silver are
used lavishly In all forms of trimming, but as a rule
the metallic trimmings are In soft dull tones and achieve
richness and beauty without being garish or barbaric.
The ecclesiastical mania has taken a new departure
and now it Is the monk's habit tht Is being Imitated.
We have the Franciscan girdles and Capuchin hooda
and the kimono waist models are decidedly monkish
when they are gathered In at the waist line with knotted
ropes of gold or silver. The Franciscan celnture has
now entirely superseded the Japan
ese sash, for most women, unless
slender, object to the broad backed
effect which the obt gives and after
a trial have discarded it in favor of
the heavy knotted cord. This fash
Ion has revived the4 wearing of the
Jeweled crosses formerly so much in
vogue.
The prediction that the Persian rage
would wear lUelf out during the fall
reason has not been fully verified,
although there are evidences of Its
waning hastened by the cheap Imi
tations of the more elegant fabrics.
The passementerie motifs and cords
and tassels In Persian colors, how
ever, are among the smartest and
prettiest of the newest trimmings.
The shortened waist line Is a feat
ure of tiie spring blouses. Some
times this Is produced by having ths
ihortened waist line under the arm,
with a straight back and front.
Others have the shortened waist Una
at the front .and the side, with
straight hack, still others have the blouse trimmed to
give the empire effect. A few of the more extreme mod
els have a peplum starting from about two Inches above
the normal waist line.
Now a word as to adapting the blouse styles to the
Individual figure: Remember that a f)gur that la large,
with an overdeveloped bust, Is a most difficult one to
adjust to the graceful expressions of the peasant type.
Nc matter how low the bust of the corset Is cut, as
soon as the hips and the waist are laced Into place, the
figure above the waist spreads out and grows larger
with the flesh that Is pushed up from below. In In
stances of this kind brassieres are apt to make matters
worse when worn over the corset. The bust and shoul
ders t sucli a figure must be reduced, for with all the
natural ease of the new blouses there must be no hint
of fullness In any part of the costume.
The onl satisfactory arrangement for a person
afflicted with such a figure Is to wear a corselet te under
the corset of the variety which has a broad elastlo
scross the buck and la laced In front. This corselette
Is laced tightly at the top, allowing the bottom to be
easy, to hold the buat down to Its lowest natural posi
tion. According to the present fashions there must be
absolutely no curves, the flat straight figure Is what Is
considered sinart. The back of the corselette holds
the flesh down on the shoulder blade In the same way,
doing away with that awful dread of all women the
middle aged back.
Over the corselette Is fitted an extremely low bust,
long hipped corset. As the upper part of the body by
this arrangement depends In no way upon the corset,
the top of the latter may be fitted aa closely as Is
needed to prevent the outline from showing through
the dress.
No woman should follow blindly a fashion. She
should change and chop it to suit her especial needs.
Kvery gown created is designed for a model who has
certain lines, certain colorings, and certain Individ
uality of walk and carriage. For a woman of opposite
complexion, hair, and eyea, of a different build and with
an entirely dissimilar nxinner of holding herself to
attempt to wear a gown built for a woman of the first
type is absurd but It Is done all the time. Hundreds
of copies of blouses, hats, gowns are aent out to women
as different frout til mnilal am -m 4
The trouble with the styles of tho present, which
lisve tended to much controversy lies not in the fashion"
themselves, but In their exaggerations. The fashions
are fundamentally more artistic than we have seen
for years. ,
The first necessity Is to study one's silhouette, which -can
only be done before a full length mirror, wheT
very angle Is shown. Many so-called well dressed .
women content themselves with the vlewn they get of
their frocks ,ln a glass which shows only half of their :
figure, or In the plnteglnss windows of stores as they
jiromenade. With this scant Impression snd the knowl
edge that their gowns are firmly made and fastened
In the back, they believe themselves perfectly gowned. ',
The truth la they don't know whether they are or not, '
not having seen their pictures In the entirely.
There is moro Ignorance shown In regard to the sil
houette than one would Imagine possible. The woman
who Is accustomed to see herself full faced does not
reallr.o that to the world generally she turns her profile .
or n three-quarters view and she must remember that
la dressing she should not dress for herself alone.'
Study face, figure, complexion, hair, and how you
carry yourself If you would get the most out of your
clothes snfl aboi-e all don't buy something because lt
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Bodice of thin Liu- r Ki
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veils gold lace and velvet and it is finished
t the waist by twu inch band of velvet