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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 20, 1910)
THE OMAHA SHNDAY BEE: XOVEMTIER 4J0. 1010
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AH1K l-'pecial Correspondence. A new
Har ha arisen among the rank! cf the
Rreat Paris couturiers, and one who Is
likely fo overshadow many of his can
temporaries anil take first place In this
stellar constellation. He Is Paul Po'.ret.
whose gowns and costumes for several
seasons past bare been a conslant foplo
of conversation on account of the originality of their
designs, the beauty and Rorireousness of their materials,
and the wonderful combinations of colors which tbey
Mnny of his costumes are. novel ta a degree. They
sre boldly executed, carried out with the sure hand
of a master worker, who, certain of his own genius,
dues not hesitate to give It material form. Anything
thst has beauty evldenlly appeals to him and It does
not matter whether he harks back to the risys or the
P.oman empire- or seeks Inspiration from some later
source so that It has lines of grace and eje-satlsfylng
Unes are one of the strong points of most of Polrct s
creations, and It may be for that reason that so ma:"y
of the bcaut'es of the Trench stage are costumed by
him. The powns must fall In long and unbroken folds,
In undulating curves produced by draperies and fes
tooned scarfs, or In the shorter swerves that a-
wrought ty partiers, flounces, loops of velvet, or rib
boned knots. It all depends upon the woman who is 10
v "''fa TSWIUI-li jsw-
CfeaJCcotSV- Co3trtm.cn of Thxpee
SlicLaes of Yellow ChiffoijOize
VrjacdL Ore 2? the Other Azncl
Sfcovv-xiacf Oferxi.Ti?s orx T?ithex
Sxcle of -the Slxtr Filled a.
w-x'tli. CrolcL Jm. b T&ocie xrr Set
rvx.tlx Ojpls Tine UjpzxTT Pant
cf the BocLce ciTxd Sleeves Ave
of the 'EJm.'hvoiieT- Setyvith
Stones Z72tj?x? Atpc Tvmo
a.tr vines ifojo of tlue JBxcst.
nope i. fkom f-hx-ret
bo clothed aid whether aha ta tall or short, lithesome or
ihg reverse. Lines his jowns and wraps must have,
anil of the sort that will Impart the moat grace to the
individual figure, and these are as carefully studied
and laboriously thought out as If each and every one
ere a work of art.
Color is another characteristic Tor which Poiret Is
Mmoua, aud in his atelier are to ba found more curious
and undreamed of combinations than In any other
establishment In the length and breadth of Paris.
Nothing Is too daring for him to attempt in the put
ting together of colors, and the results that are ob
tained show perhaps more than anything els the
Unerring- eya of the artist. '
Tor hla use are prepared speclsl tones and shsdes of
tones so that In the making of certain costumes there
will be no hance of a false note being struck or thst
very detail of a gown shall not blend into one har
In some ronumn a dozsn colors ara employed, and
again a dozen kiiades of a single one of that dosc.t, and
ea -h to perfectly blended the one with the other thst
in their entirety they are a poem In themselves. Sucii
ornblnatiuns of reds run through an entire gamut of
lint, from the deep glowing shsde of the ruby to tiie
ralntly colored tinge seen In a sea shell. Greens and
blues are seen that remind on of the sea and sky
anke, and other tonea that are suggested by the plum-
ge of tld birds or the sparkle of priceless gems.
&om new colors have teen christened, by poiret and
ate only :t be found In gain. ems made under Ins
duectiou. others have been Inspired by a -httr-e
mingling of si.r.ries and lue gained popularity outlde
of mi tslablibhiucat. lor it Is sufhcient lo jy thi
flit ; ' I M
II1S1 V Till - li
:T' " - -mi ni ' ' T
b - - . " "MY 4 v 34 A
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v . A:A:. i :y
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1. i- A?OW
H i .
o)h.ovrx-ridi & S.rx'-t of J5Zacic"
Chxforx Vclvctr arxd- Sleeves
cirzc tjpipejp of- Ifodxcc
oflT?'tTiitzie'. J-x? the Centx'3 of
thus J5kcic is a fc(?e I&cbs ort
X.TX Pvcll Gold.- lopeu. FRonHirct
this or that is a " Poiret color" to give it ait Immedials
cachet. In this respect he is unique in a city where
dressmaking is a n'ne art.
Recently from Polrets workroom came gowna that
have been named by him as showing their especlsl
characteristics. There is a vampire gown made of
blackest chiffon trimmed with the fur of monkeys und
showing oi either shoulder a huge buckle consisting
of a single green stone.
There Is the gown of "Kvil Thought," a brilliant
red affair, showing beneath lis slightly draped skirt an
other oni! of black satin and having on its bodice soma
touches of black fur and some gold embroidery.
H has also tha gown of "Good Intentions," a com
bination of blue and pink trimmed in silver.
The gown of "Jealousy," a wonderful mingling of
many shades of yellow, with ornaments of opals.
There Is a "Rosa" gown, what Ita name denotes,
only marvelously carried out with petals and leaves
of the flower..
A " Heart's-ease " costume, which is fashioned to rep
resent a single beautiful pansy, aud many others which
might be mentioned.
There Is one gown wnich Is perhaps even mora
curious than all these others. It Is the gown of
' Sleeping Passions," why and wherefore no omo can
tell. It has a deep yoke and long kimono sleeves made
of ermine, pure white and of beautiful fur. The neck
la cut low back and front, and In the center of the
back is a single blazing ruby. The skirt is of chiffon
velvet. Jet black, and without trimming of any sort.
Skirt and bodice are connected only with a seam, and
the violent contrast between the fur and elvet is the
most striking thine to be imagined.
In cloaks and wraps, too, Poiret shows an Individ
uality all his own, which no one else has. Ilia gar
ments a-e all long, some dressing well on the floor,
and all vivid in coloring.
There Is one called the Caucasian model, which is
of brilliant red velvet below, trimmed with a band ot
black lynx, while above It fhous the same colored vel
vet striped in yellow. The two pieces of the gsrment
are connected by a band of embroidery twelve or four
teen inches wide. This is dona on cloth cf gold with
occasional raised motifs of go!o passementerie, and
the colors ;f the bscUground are a mixture of many
strong shedas. bhie, c icons, oranges, and the like.
About tlin nerk. on Ilia long sleeves, and down the
front is more fur. and when the cloak is thrown back
is ben a lining of roal purple velvet. It Is really a
rcjial looking garment.
There aro n unlike cloaks, intended for young girls'
ear, soft gr.iy on the octsida snd a material like
' pink ai d while marble below. There are cloaks
modeled fler some worn by Kuyptlmi besuties of the
da.vs of i'liaruuh with oiaint devices partly covering
tje eur.:uce of the material. Some are fur trimmed,
o!h"ts have ornaments and Kird'es of stranga design?,
heavy iih intal and stones. All re odd. as It ia In
lei.Ued l.iey should ' be, for tuila s jtEviei.il ia th
foa.-zlet Chxfoii 7Liirixfiiri Over-
t w -a- rvrv t 0 3 .
fuza Mo itrstT?e to it. Jze LJiiffexi.
csrx It- Jbne ix JfZsdc? Got &ilfcs
These Bex$ of &a.Sj Jj3.gSa2n.s,
Witches a.Tixi Other JDevxcreS . The
J?odce Is of ' -Blanch- &aizn,Qizxtre
F73JL-tx.3izd There Are Lorxi Cords
o f ULactC Chtm-ilLr axiri. &t-s &ich
Haxuf at -the eft- Side of iheW&vst
prevailing mode to be "in style," they are slill unique
nough to make them stand out from ail other models
with which they are grouped.
The skirts of the gowns are all narrow to a degree
and any woman who ia not bitumens itself had better
not 'attemp: them. The waists of all are short, soma
showing the line directly under the bust. When drapery
is used it is wound about the figure to make each curve
and line noticed, and if there are tunics and over
draperies then they are of the most transparent stuffs
Lrx iren ton3
Ji'c Str-xpert Velvet and.
Shows Sxlvex Et-rbx?oxcfs2riy
arid There in at Silver Cbz?d
Ahovctr the Wciist-
HoiCL FrR0t Fbxcetr
and the robe Ler.es.Lb them simply molds the figure and
fits it like a glove.
It may sound fearful to wear these Poiret creations.
BUTTERFLY DESIGNS IN DRESS.
Asa symbol of the evatieseence of the passing mode
no better object than the butterfly could be found. But
whether or not it is a humorous allusion to the fleeting
and ev er-chanfiing fashions that the dress designers in
Paris have chosen it as a hall-mark of tiieir early winter
efforts In novelty need not be decided here. t-ufTlce U
to say that the butterfly is the prominent lte:n. at
present, upon the smartest list, the most charming
dresses, and in the case of any number of ornaments.
A fancy arose for wearing butterfly brooches and
pemlanta made of trnnslucent ensmels set mlth gems,
and then, still more wonderful, came the butterfly Im
prisoned in crystal, snd used In various practical and
ornamental ways, from a paper weight to pendant.
Nest into publicity came the butterfly's connection
with drees, und the new developement of the old idea
is the phsse we are Invited to welcome now.
The hutteifly is noticeable under the fresh regime
inasmuch h entirely different materials ace used for
talking Uiiaiiiiel, tinted huru, gold, silver, and plati
num, with a setting of precious stones the obvious
means, l.i fact, wiiereby the butterfly can be ivpresenttd
are set aside now by lace, fur, and embroideries.
A beautiful hat made of black peau de soie. with b
large, low crown and a wide und graceful brim, was
In the front of the hat was placed a single large but
terfly made of tailless ermine bound with black peal
ds soie, the sole ornament the model boasted. It was
daring but very effective decoration, and the fact that
the butterfly was more like a bow than an Insect was
in its favor.
The Incongruity of a butterfly made ot silk and fur
would have discounted the success of the scheme had
too close a r&umhlatice to nature been attempted. It
was the suggestion of the beautiful fly that was so
acceptable and so convincing, and th suggestion was
secured by the shspe of the bow, which was like the
butterfly wings, and the poise thereof, which was that
of the creature at icsi upon a flower
TheHVkrny9xre'oVrn. Zaote oi.
WbacJx; Chiffoi with Pee p
rionjcv ttxr About -fcfxe
P Vorzx Dee-p Copsele ir Tort of
CtliffoziTjexxTizneci With. tZze
Same Fzjiz3, the its trexrxx
Qr?eetrx cLibmeS. Witlx ThzJ
13 Shoivn 3L fiat jMOsjcte,
srxti.T-etv of JTcnlccy Sl&tt
tyhzCh Ahrrvoyt- CbxCLLa
the Fce- Tt Is Txr.xnmeoL
Ovizx Eadh EIirv-j!z Ebseties
hf Velvet- tv-iM? Gold Ornaments
xt-i xjn.e centres .
MOPE l Frl l-bi
but on the contrary many of them are must altistio.
The lnplier of them has the courage of hla convic
tions and cares not a jot for the conventional nor for
what Worth, I'aquin, lrecoll, or any other of his con
temporaries may bo doing, in many respects Ms Judg
ment Is infallible, and in the selection of colors aim
materials he never makes a mistake. Every particle
of material used In his establishment Is woven for
lii mi. and all of it la soft and supple, while most of it la
thin, almost if not quite transparent.
A word may bo gaid of the manner In which these
models are shown, and their environment for this Is
slso unusual. The establishment la housed In a superb
mansion In the Faubourg Ht. Honor, and one enters H
through a large and imposing court. There is an en
trance hall finished In orange and blue with a wonder
ful paper frieze on the high celling of queer lcailess
trees, riiggej mountains, and an orange moon shining
down. The eletrlo lights are wonders, looking- like
coarsely wrought chunks of glass, semi-transparent,
through which shlno oiane lights.
Where the munlklns walk nothing is lo be seen but
Kelt), and of most gorgeous shades, carpels, hangings,
furniture all of material as rich as can be obtained.
The room, which Is ei.ormouftlv large and aulted.
opens out through long i'lench windows into a garden
of great size, which one i onics upon unexpectedly i:i the
hesrt of Pari!'. Thin Is tilled with spreading tre,
beds of blooinl"? flowers, and there are winding paths.
Also there are pieces of statuary, garden seals, aid
vine covered trellises win-re one may sit.
When the day Is fine ail the josiuines intended for
out oT door wear are shown tn tlii garden, the manikins
walking in and out anient; the trees, up mid down the
graveled walks and chatting among themselves as If
only up'Mi pleasure bent. It is like a scene In borne
sumptuous theater where one can sll at ease and watch
ail the characters In their various costumes playing
each her particular part.
The owner and originator of it all ia quiet and un
assuming. He passes In and out among the epeclatuis.
mostly unnoticed, and talking seldom if at all.
As yet j'olrel is i ot much known in America, but
his day will surely come, and it Is safe to predict thai
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