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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 20, 1910)
THE OMAHA SHNDAY BEE: XOVEMTIER 4J0. 1010 . , 1 jC 3 I If ". 1 M . i I I WW VlWI'Hy MWMWy I Is pan uj mm yfip P ( IT I WW AH1K l-'pecial Correspondence. A new Har ha arisen among the rank! cf the Rreat Paris couturiers, and one who Is likely fo overshadow many of his can temporaries anil take first place In this stellar constellation. He Is Paul Po'.ret. whose gowns and costumes for several seasons past bare been a conslant foplo of conversation on account of the originality of their designs, the beauty and Rorireousness of their materials, and the wonderful combinations of colors which tbey disp'ay. Mnny of his costumes are. novel ta a degree. They sre boldly executed, carried out with the sure hand of a master worker, who, certain of his own genius, dues not hesitate to give It material form. Anything thst has beauty evldenlly appeals to him and It does not matter whether he harks back to the risys or the P.oman empire- or seeks Inspiration from some later source so that It has lines of grace and eje-satlsfylng cols'. Unes are one of the strong points of most of Polrct s creations, and It may be for that reason that so ma:"y of the bcaut'es of the Trench stage are costumed by him. The powns must fall In long and unbroken folds, In undulating curves produced by draperies and fes tooned scarfs, or In the shorter swerves that a- wrought ty partiers, flounces, loops of velvet, or rib boned knots. It all depends upon the woman who is 10 v "''fa TSWIUI-li jsw- SfsJ!yIias II i I CfeaJCcotSV- Co3trtm.cn of Thxpee SlicLaes of Yellow ChiffoijOize VrjacdL Ore 2? the Other Azncl Sfcovv-xiacf Oferxi.Ti?s orx T?ithex Sxcle of -the Slxtr Filled a. w-x'tli. CrolcL Jm. b T&ocie xrr Set rvx.tlx Ojpls Tine UjpzxTT Pant cf the BocLce ciTxd Sleeves Ave of the 'EJm.'hvoiieT- Setyvith Stones Z72tj?x? Atpc Tvmo a.tr vines ifojo of tlue JBxcst. nope i. fkom f-hx-ret bo clothed aid whether aha ta tall or short, lithesome or ihg reverse. Lines his jowns and wraps must have, anil of the sort that will Impart the moat grace to the individual figure, and these are as carefully studied and laboriously thought out as If each and every one ere a work of art. Color is another characteristic Tor which Poiret Is Mmoua, aud in his atelier are to ba found more curious and undreamed of combinations than In any other establishment In the length and breadth of Paris. Nothing Is too daring for him to attempt in the put ting together of colors, and the results that are ob tained show perhaps more than anything els the Unerring- eya of the artist. ' Tor hla use are prepared speclsl tones and shsdes of tones so that In the making of certain costumes there will be no hance of a false note being struck or thst very detail of a gown shall not blend into one har monious whole. In some ronumn a dozsn colors ara employed, and again a dozen kiiades of a single one of that dosc.t, and ea -h to perfectly blended the one with the other thst in their entirety they are a poem In themselves. Sucii ornblnatiuns of reds run through an entire gamut of lint, from the deep glowing shsde of the ruby to tiie ralntly colored tinge seen In a sea shell. Greens and blues are seen that remind on of the sea and sky anke, and other tonea that are suggested by the plum- ge of tld birds or the sparkle of priceless gems. &om new colors have teen christened, by poiret and ate only :t be found In gain. ems made under Ins duectiou. others have been Inspired by a -httr-e mingling of si.r.ries and lue gained popularity outlde of mi tslablibhiucat. lor it Is sufhcient lo jy thi flit ; ' I M II1S1 V Till - li :T' " - -mi ni ' ' T b - - . " "MY 4 v 34 A !.. r iky i ' p v . A:A:. i :y ,. ! , III I I - i ' " i; r I 1. i- A?OW H i . o)h.ovrx-ridi & S.rx'-t of J5Zacic" Chxforx Vclvctr arxd- Sleeves cirzc tjpipejp of- Ifodxcc oflT?'tTiitzie'. J-x? the Centx'3 of thus J5kcic is a fc(?e I&cbs ort X.TX Pvcll Gold.- lopeu. FRonHirct this or that is a " Poiret color" to give it ait Immedials cachet. In this respect he is unique in a city where dressmaking is a n'ne art. Recently from Polrets workroom came gowna that have been named by him as showing their especlsl characteristics. There is a vampire gown made of blackest chiffon trimmed with the fur of monkeys und showing oi either shoulder a huge buckle consisting of a single green stone. There Is the gown of "Kvil Thought," a brilliant red affair, showing beneath lis slightly draped skirt an other oni! of black satin and having on its bodice soma touches of black fur and some gold embroidery. H has also tha gown of "Good Intentions," a com bination of blue and pink trimmed in silver. The gown of "Jealousy," a wonderful mingling of many shades of yellow, with ornaments of opals. There Is a "Rosa" gown, what Ita name denotes, only marvelously carried out with petals and leaves of the flower.. A " Heart's-ease " costume, which is fashioned to rep resent a single beautiful pansy, aud many others which might be mentioned. There Is one gown wnich Is perhaps even mora curious than all these others. It Is the gown of ' Sleeping Passions," why and wherefore no omo can tell. It has a deep yoke and long kimono sleeves made of ermine, pure white and of beautiful fur. The neck la cut low back and front, and In the center of the back is a single blazing ruby. The skirt is of chiffon velvet. Jet black, and without trimming of any sort. Skirt and bodice are connected only with a seam, and the violent contrast between the fur and elvet is the most striking thine to be imagined. In cloaks and wraps, too, Poiret shows an Individ uality all his own, which no one else has. Ilia gar ments a-e all long, some dressing well on the floor, and all vivid in coloring. There Is one called the Caucasian model, which is of brilliant red velvet below, trimmed with a band ot black lynx, while above It fhous the same colored vel vet striped in yellow. The two pieces of the gsrment are connected by a band of embroidery twelve or four teen inches wide. This is dona on cloth cf gold with occasional raised motifs of go!o passementerie, and the colors ;f the bscUground are a mixture of many strong shedas. bhie, c icons, oranges, and the like. About tlin nerk. on Ilia long sleeves, and down the front is more fur. and when the cloak is thrown back is ben a lining of roal purple velvet. It Is really a rcjial looking garment. There aro n unlike cloaks, intended for young girls' ear, soft gr.iy on the octsida snd a material like ' pink ai d while marble below. There are cloaks modeled fler some worn by Kuyptlmi besuties of the da.vs of i'liaruuh with oiaint devices partly covering tje eur.:uce of the material. Some are fur trimmed, o!h"ts have ornaments and Kird'es of stranga design?, heavy iih intal and stones. All re odd. as It ia In lei.Ued l.iey should ' be, for tuila s jtEviei.il ia th foa.-zlet Chxfoii 7Liirixfiiri Over- t w -a- rvrv t 0 3 . fuza Mo itrstT?e to it. Jze LJiiffexi. csrx It- Jbne ix JfZsdc? Got &ilfcs These Bex$ of &a.Sj Jj3.gSa2n.s, Witches a.Tixi Other JDevxcreS . The J?odce Is of ' -Blanch- &aizn,Qizxtre F73JL-tx.3izd There Are Lorxi Cords o f ULactC Chtm-ilLr axiri. &t-s &ich Haxuf at -the eft- Side of iheW&vst notSLPRon Poixetr i prevailing mode to be "in style," they are slill unique nough to make them stand out from ail other models with which they are grouped. !1 f.t The skirts of the gowns are all narrow to a degree and any woman who ia not bitumens itself had better not 'attemp: them. The waists of all are short, soma showing the line directly under the bust. When drapery is used it is wound about the figure to make each curve and line noticed, and if there are tunics and over draperies then they are of the most transparent stuffs XI Oh "Good Lrx iren ton3 fEateBltue Ji'c Str-xpert Velvet and. Ch-iffon. TheFlnontoftlteBoUike Shows Sxlvex Et-rbx?oxcfs2riy arid There in at Silver Cbz?d Ahovctr the Wciist- HoiCL FrR0t Fbxcetr and the robe Ler.es.Lb them simply molds the figure and fits it like a glove. It may sound fearful to wear these Poiret creations. BUTTERFLY DESIGNS IN DRESS. Asa symbol of the evatieseence of the passing mode no better object than the butterfly could be found. But whether or not it is a humorous allusion to the fleeting and ev er-chanfiing fashions that the dress designers in Paris have chosen it as a hall-mark of tiieir early winter efforts In novelty need not be decided here. t-ufTlce U to say that the butterfly is the prominent lte:n. at present, upon the smartest list, the most charming dresses, and in the case of any number of ornaments. A fancy arose for wearing butterfly brooches and pemlanta made of trnnslucent ensmels set mlth gems, and then, still more wonderful, came the butterfly Im prisoned in crystal, snd used In various practical and ornamental ways, from a paper weight to pendant. Nest into publicity came the butterfly's connection with drees, und the new developement of the old idea is the phsse we are Invited to welcome now. The hutteifly is noticeable under the fresh regime inasmuch h entirely different materials ace used for talking Uiiaiiiiel, tinted huru, gold, silver, and plati num, with a setting of precious stones the obvious means, l.i fact, wiiereby the butterfly can be ivpresenttd are set aside now by lace, fur, and embroideries. A beautiful hat made of black peau de soie. with b large, low crown and a wide und graceful brim, was noticeable. In the front of the hat was placed a single large but terfly made of tailless ermine bound with black peal ds soie, the sole ornament the model boasted. It was daring but very effective decoration, and the fact that the butterfly was more like a bow than an Insect was in its favor. The Incongruity of a butterfly made ot silk and fur would have discounted the success of the scheme had too close a r&umhlatice to nature been attempted. It was the suggestion of the beautiful fly that was so acceptable and so convincing, and th suggestion was secured by the shspe of the bow, which was like the butterfly wings, and the poise thereof, which was that of the creature at icsi upon a flower TheHVkrny9xre'oVrn. Zaote oi. WbacJx; Chiffoi with Pee p rionjcv ttxr About -fcfxe P Vorzx Dee-p Copsele ir Tort of CtliffoziTjexxTizneci With. tZze Same Fzjiz3, the its trexrxx Qr?eetrx cLibmeS. Witlx ThzJ 13 Shoivn 3L fiat jMOsjcte, srxti.T-etv of JTcnlccy Sl&tt tyhzCh Ahrrvoyt- CbxCLLa the Fce- Tt Is Txr.xnmeoL Ovizx Eadh EIirv-j!z Ebseties hf Velvet- tv-iM? Gold Ornaments xt-i xjn.e centres . MOPE l Frl l-bi but on the contrary many of them are must altistio. The lnplier of them has the courage of hla convic tions and cares not a jot for the conventional nor for what Worth, I'aquin, lrecoll, or any other of his con temporaries may bo doing, in many respects Ms Judg ment Is infallible, and in the selection of colors aim materials he never makes a mistake. Every particle of material used In his establishment Is woven for lii mi. and all of it la soft and supple, while most of it la thin, almost if not quite transparent. A word may bo gaid of the manner In which these models are shown, and their environment for this Is slso unusual. The establishment la housed In a superb mansion In the Faubourg Ht. Honor, and one enters H through a large and imposing court. There is an en trance hall finished In orange and blue with a wonder ful paper frieze on the high celling of queer lcailess trees, riiggej mountains, and an orange moon shining down. The eletrlo lights are wonders, looking- like coarsely wrought chunks of glass, semi-transparent, through which shlno oiane lights. Where the munlklns walk nothing is lo be seen but Kelt), and of most gorgeous shades, carpels, hangings, furniture all of material as rich as can be obtained. The room, which Is ei.ormouftlv large and aulted. opens out through long i'lench windows into a garden of great size, which one i onics upon unexpectedly i:i the hesrt of Pari!'. Thin Is tilled with spreading tre, beds of blooinl"? flowers, and there are winding paths. Also there are pieces of statuary, garden seals, aid vine covered trellises win-re one may sit. When the day Is fine ail the josiuines intended for out oT door wear are shown tn tlii garden, the manikins walking in and out anient; the trees, up mid down the graveled walks and chatting among themselves as If only up'Mi pleasure bent. It is like a scene In borne sumptuous theater where one can sll at ease and watch ail the characters In their various costumes playing each her particular part. The owner and originator of it all ia quiet and un assuming. He passes In and out among the epeclatuis. mostly unnoticed, and talking seldom if at all. As yet j'olrel is i ot much known in America, but his day will surely come, and it Is safe to predict thai before long i
