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17SCK illninesa and tha straight up anil ,
down attests rufe in fashion, all llnrl
this Hfitison 1a designed with tha Idaa of
eliminating; ' all possible flufDnaas. Ls
use has been found for the starched
white muslin petticoats this year than
for many aeasons back. .The narrow,
smart skirt that does not flare an Inch
from the hem Is responsible, for the shelving; of petti
coats. As there must not be the allajhtest evidence of petti
coats, the lightest materials possible are chosen:
voile, nlnon, marquisette, and chiffon are used
In ahort walking; length for wear with street dresses
said for evening gowns.-
But the woman who wants a soft, clinging petticoat
for general or morning wear cannot afford these One
materials. Instead, this season she is using pongee
stot the coarse grained kind for gowns, but a soft 1
pongee that comes In white and all colors, wears
well, and washes well.
The skirts are usually extremely narrow, as - care
fully fitted as the outside skirt, and trimmed with a
cant circular ruffle or wide tucks. They are out an
"Inch shorter than the outside skirt. Draw strings are
not uaed. Instead, the skirt Is carefully fitted about
the waist Una, to eliminate the slightest bulklnesa of
material there. Most of the petticoats, too, are made
to open up the front or the side, and are usually
glove clamped.
4 .
China silk and messaltne are also favored materials
for these slinky petticoats. These light, soft silks are
admirable petticoat materials, and when not adorned
with sheerest of flounces, are trimmed In many ways.
One extremely expensive Imported petticoat was of
the softest, lightest white sMln which had consider
able body despite Its softness. A deep, scant flounce
was act on the aklrt at the bottom, and over It fell a
uperb white fringe..
In a number of the models the flounces are aet on
with Inserts of lace, or with cleverly grouped tiny
tuck.
Combination garments are everywhere favored.
Ttaey are shown made of the finest batiste, cambric,
r muslin, and enriched by scant ruffles of lace or
flat embroidery bands. In nearly all of these gar
ments the seamless shoulder Is shown, as It Is In
night dresses, corset covers, and chemises. These
garments are nearly all made ' along the straight
princess lines.
The combination of corset cover, drawers, and short
gklrt leads. While there are a number of corset covers
ebown with fullness, many are closely fitted by darts,
as the combination la generally worn with tha idea of
giving one greater slenderness. Tha new drawers
how wide skirt portions, which are trimmed with
Aeep 'but scant flounces having practically flat lace
dges. The flounces are usually opened their entire
length , at the outer side, and the facing corners so
formed are elaborate with Inserts of Valenciennes or
Cluny lace. At the top of thle allt In the flounce la .
usually a large bow of soft ribbon.
Some, but not all, are cut with circular tops that
ts. two half circular ones, which, though fitting abso
lutely over the hlpe, flare quite a bit at the knees.
All the pantaloon akirts are made In thta way, and
ome of the more noticeable are finished at the top
with a three lneh band which shapes around the form
tike a shallow yoke, though really rising Into a belt
form.
s
Full length gowns for boudoir wear are nearly all
made In the classic princess form, with wide effect at
the waist, but with few, if any, gathers at the top.
These and the tea-gowns of the year are usually In
thin silk, or crtpe or in any of the clinging materials,
enriched by pretty undersllps of sufficiently strong
tone to show through the materials, snd with floes em
sroldrrie. In delicate, effective designs.
Borne of tlie quaint trimmings of the year are com
bined in the tea gowns. Shell plaits or those ruched
plaits which ar being revived from the fashions of
the fifties, often border at the foot and the front of
the gown. They are made in the old fashioned way,
f tWTeta, sometimes fringed at each side, snd some
times hemmed. Fringes of the long thin sort are being
utilised In the trimmings of these boudoir frocks. Thoy
usually edge berthas or fichus of silk.
Irish lace, especially the Carrickmarroaa variety, is
used freoly about the coreege portions of the more
elaborate boudoir gowns, and small round collars of
this and the heavy Boulogne lace are seen with the
majority of the gowns having Dutch necks.
Apropos of theta. ihe wearing of ribbon ties Is not
permissible with them. Quaint brooches, set with
cameoee or miniatures, or with some unpolished stones,
are the appropriate pins to use. or in lieu of these a
rosette of silk, or lace, er velvet Is worn.
Ajtother Important polat in these boudoir gowaa la
S
-" ', :".,' f " AlBrll iiA . I If r-3ertinSinTor-chii.Orn? o the
Silk 3--n&L Pr-i inces-s. jdtc-. lara
their inside treatment. They are all unllned and faced
at the foot, no matter how thin the outer roatorial,
with fine cloth to weigh them softly. The top of the
cloth is usually herringbone stitched Instead of be
ing 'hemmed. This method of finishing Is flatter than
the hern with the turned In edge and therefore much
better for a thin material. The cloth must match the
outer material in color as nearly aa possible, so that
It i will not be noticeable.
One of the moat pleasing of the boudoir gowns shown
was of simple Japanese form, modified and rather scant
and was hand embroidered about the edge, and also
over the bust and shoulders. It was made of the
sheerest batiste and was to be worn over a similar
garment of Chinese silk in some pale tone.
'
No boudoir outfit would be complete this aeaeon with
out several caps breakfast caps, boudoir and curl
caps. The latter consists of a cap with a coiffure built ,
in it.
A cap I recently saw was made of the whitest,
crlspeet muslin. It waa so white K waa blue, and It
was slightly transparent to show arrangement of the
was slightly transparent 10 snow arrangement or me
hair underneath. I afterward Earned that the coiffure
la built right in the cap and that the cap is pinned
on, hair and all. when you dress for breakfast or for
early callers. However It is managed, it is certainly
a success. Through the sheer cap I counted puffs,
curls, and a coronet braid.
The all silk morning cap la an Improvement on all
the others, and as It is tha newest thing of all you
may want to know about It It la a morning cap, and
,t m enu,.,!, of oft glossy silk. It is lined with
satin of the same color and It Is slightly padded to
make it keep Its ehapev It is called the Virginia cap,
though why Virginia t don't know, aa no southern
woman ever went to such deception.
The secret In the Virginia cap. Ilea In building It of
silk that exactly matches the hair. ' If hair is a deep
brown, the cap must bs of the same shade of brown.
If the hair shades a little, one Is compelled to get
shot silk shading a little into red. When the cap Is
pinned on the head at breakfaat time it looks more
ltke the real hair than the hair itself, and what a
comfort these caps are.
I have a blond friend who has a cap of yellow silk as
deep as gold. The cap ! made In soft fashion to lis
upon the head In little folds. When she gets it un you
would never guess that it hid hair that had not been
dressed.
There is another new cap In the feminine wardrobe.
It is made like the dunce hats that come In paper
mottoes. It, too, must be of silk or satin of the color
of the hair, and is to be worn when you haven't
donned the switch and pempadour.
The whole art of putting on these caps lies la
placing becomingly. Put on In the wrong wsy, they
are grotesque.
A cap worn at bridge parties Is made of fur. It
might almost be called a toque except that a toque le
a hat, and you nmr see these fur caps in the street
or anywhere exoopt at bridge parties. They are of
aofteet fur and apparently ahapeleea. . The top is laid
in artless fold v. s plnuad to the head in a thorough
fashion, which lr;i ) It down almost to the ears and
eyebrows. At one silo there is a long and picturesque
willow plume. This saay sound odd, but to any one
who has seen a bridge cap of this kind worn at a card
party where hats are nermlaViible It conveys much that
Is pretty.
One trouble with the up U that most women da
THE OMAHA' SUNDAY HEK: NOVEMBER
j Asm . . : f
r ' V ' Ml 7
Fin.xsh.edi in Front wittx. L&z&s
CVa.va--. Sho2rtr Sleeves Opcxx on.
-f -L, &UnrJl-1fi to -ow- Tfi'rthAmAm
f3- ? "T A?Wi?r Sl&mqoYm.
3i Liinen. TxxTii7xt&i xt. 'Vxleradennfs.
not know how to n.ake up for it. They wer it badly.
I have seen caps put over a head of balr that was dull
and glosuless. The hair must be kept clear and lively
and the cap must be merely regarded as a trimming.
Caps would be more successful If women better
understood their own color scneme. If your cap is
trimmed with pink ribbon It means that your cheeks
must be pink. Few women past their first prime have
pink cheeks, and for that reason they should avoid
the vivid pink touch In their caps. The rose colored
shades will be found much kinder.
.
In night gowns the slip over models are most
favored, but any number of attractive models are
shown fastening down the front. In many Instances
there Is a tiny plaited frill of narrow width applied
to both aides of the front plait. A fancy collar made
of the material, tucked, edged with Valenciennes lace,
usually extends in two points, both back and front.
Narrow tucked cuffs, edged with a frill to match the
front trimming, finish the aleeves at three-quarter
length.
A novelty shown is the princess night gown. It Is
semi-fitted to the high empire waist line, and faatens
in the back with small pearl buttons. Fullness is
supplied by a circular cut of tbs bottom section, elab
orated by inserting and lace.
A great many of the night gowna shown this season
have tha embroidered Initial on them. The close fit
ting waist line in the empire effect Is obtained in
some modele by the use of ribbons run through head
ings and Insertions, with bows and long ends as finish;
but the straight cut, loose model, with no suggestion
of waist line, but falling In soft, straight folds. Is the
sty Is most in favor.
Ad Improvement noted during the last year is the
long, unboned coreet skirt, wtiich It Is predioted has
come to stay. This long casing improve the contour
of every flgurev whether the body Is slender or etout.
13. 1010.
but, of course, the latter receive the greater benefit, as
it accomplishes the desired hip reduction.
The newest models are designed In a manner to give
excellent service, as the tendency of the cloth to tear
or to pull out when in a sitting position has been con
sidered and the corsets are constructed on lines which
eliminate this fault. In some cases there is a cut out
section In front and a band of webbing so cleverly in
serted that it acts as an abdominal support for figures
that are really slender, as well as holding the flesh
firmly In place for the stouter woman.
Another use of the rubber gusset is made In the bust
and It too has been found a practical improvement, aa
the sitting posture la more comfortable for the stout
woman If the bust Is allowed to settle well into the
corset.
The use of these elastic webbings on tha corsets is
becoming more and more common. The chief objection
to them is that the elastic has a tendency to loee Its
elasticity. The new webbing, however, appears to be
much more durable, less susceptible to changes of tem
perature and capable of remaining firm and strong aa
long as the corset lasts.
To glvs the correct figure line, straight boned goring
Is used instead of the transverse, and for slender
figures it is not as close together as In former models.
There are many novelties shown in corset material
In embroidered and brocaded effects, but fabrics for
corset making In which the average woman Is In
terested are the weaves which are soft and fine, but
strong enough to give good service. Batiste a&d Im
ported and domestlo coutlls are staple fabrics, always
in demand.
In trimming there la. a tendency to get away from
the full ruffles and laces, embroideries, silks and rib
bon are used in scant proporttona
A new finish which Is perfectly - flat. Is a fitted piece
of cotton net which follows the top edge of the coreet
and extends In a pointed finish on either side of the
front. A flat cotton braid Is used to work out an ef
fective braided pattern, and makes an attractive finish.
Although the rumor has gone forth Hint the next
corset models will show a smaller waist line and de
cided curve of the hips, the fashionable woman and the
fashionable shops still cling tightly to the straight,
uncorseted figure effect the return of the short waist
line being partly renponsible for this,
The new corsets are longer from the wniat line.
Fortunately the new figure lines conform more to
those with which nature has endowed most of us than
has been the case for some seasons. The shorter
length of the upper portions of the new corsets allows .
plenty of freedom for the lungs. But the fact that
the corsets are so much lower at the top makes It
almost absolutely necessary for a woman of medium
or stout figure to wear the brassier, or bust sup
porter, in order to preserve the smooth figure line
and to obtain the trim, natty appearance.
Thers Is another type of figure which requires the
bust supporter for an entirely different purpose than
that of reducing or confining the superfluous shape to
the prescribed lines. This form usually haa a low.
bust so low that between the swell of the bust and
the shoulders are deep hollows, plainly visible, not
only on an evening dress, but on any dress that la
not padded. This defect was partly remedied by the
high bust corset when that was in good vogue. With
the low corset the bust supporter must force tha flesh
into these hollows so naturally that a low neck dress
will show only a perfectly smooth surface..
This is best accomplished by the supporters which
lace in front and extend to n a the wulst line. The
lacing, being adjusted from the bottom, will push the
flesh up to exactly the position desired and hold It
there without the rigidity of the high bust corset.
This type of figure must not be confounded with
the angular type that require padding, but la usually
fleshy and well rounded everywhere else. The only
line that needs correcting is the one from the top of
the shoulders to the waist line.
An entirely new design in brassiere is made of net,
lightly boned, and adjusted by draw strings. This
garment is shapely and wears satisfactorily. The net
is of a coarse mesh variety, sufficiently elastio to
adapt Itself to the natural lines of the figure, but
stayed In such a manner that the form Is kept in per
fect shape.
' Borne of the beat styles In brassiere are made and
trimmed like corset covers, so that there Is no neces
sity for an extra garment. The fronts are so boned
that they can easily be slipped out before they are
sent to the laundry, and they can Just as readily be
replaced. A further desirable Innovation ts the re
inforcement shield that is sewed to the under arm
Just where the friction of the under arm Is likely to
rub the material tbln. so by this simple addition the
garment will wear much longer.
In buying a corset or a brassier don't buy a slse toe
small for you, under the impression that you can lace
yourself into it. Every piece of both garments Is cut
in proportion to the slse, and If you choose a slse
smaller than the correct one you simply throw every
line of the corset or the brassier out of Its place, and
the consequence is a poor fitting corset; and your
gown, no matter how well made, will show the effect
of the poor corset. A good fitting corset will make
Itself evident even under an old fashioned garment.
The manufactured corset Is usually more satisfac
tory to the wearer than a custom made corset, for
the latter Is usually made to fit the Imperfections of
the figure, while the manufactured article Is cut te
hide the defects.
A final word: Do not Invest In a number of corsets
at one time. Have two corsets, one for common and
the other for dress up wear. It Is the same with
uuderweer; a large supply of underwear is only an
anxiety. If not looked after, they frequently grow
yellow, or a vagrant, disrespectful mouse eats large
pieces out of them. Styles, too, alter frequently In
corsets and underwear, as they do In outer garments;
also the human figure alters from time to time, and
. the garments are hopeless.
Have a comfortable supply of lingerie, but do net
accumulate.
t
