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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 13, 1910)
Omaha Candy Cooks Produce Sweets for a Western Empire , ...... V 'A : i UTTIMG- Oir C SO COL ATE, CovERIirq- . HH 'candy kids' til boost for Omaha, every Tday in the year," says Dave O'Brien, who heads the list of the aforesaid kids himaelf. On this subject the otherwise aolemn and sedate descendant of the Irish klnga la effusive, ebullient and enthusiastic; and this enthusi asm haB taken form In a candy factory, the newest in Omaha, that gives way to none in completeness In thia city. In these luxurious daya of the twen tieth century, one of the luxuries of life that is shared by every element of the community la produced by the ton daily.' The manufactured output of the four local candy factories now amount to $1,000,000 a year and the Jobbing trade In candy totale $1,600,000 a year. Jhese are the figureB of commercial record only. Tc Ithem muBt be added the Tery large output of the numerous candy kitchens that compound their own counter supplies In the line of sweets. These kitchens are controlled , by Greeks, mainly, and their output amounts to a greatmany thousands of dollars In the course of a year. Yet, the fact etanda out that there is not at the present time any large retail store in the city de voted exclusively to the sale of candy in Ita thousand forms. Making candles for the multitude, in a wholesale way, are the D. J. O'Brien company, the Dreibus Candy company, the Voegele k Dinning company and the John O. 'Woodward company. A scries of Interior views, taken In the O'Brien factory, which holds the very latest la candy-making machinery, will serve as typical of the lnduatry. All of the Omaha factories are complete, clean, costly and up-to-date In their fit tings,' and their product la In tuch growing demand that steady enlargement of capacity la the rule with all of them. 1 World Contributes to Making. To turn out the high-class product that carries the name and fame of Omaha over a great extent of territory, these candy factories draw material from many sources. The Ingredients and their containers come from the cane fields and the orchards, from the cocoa groves and the forests, from the cut treea and the flower beds, from the "goober" fields and the maple groves, from the artists and the paper mills of foreign lands, from the sugar mills and the molasses and syrup factories. The printer and the box-maker, the ribbon miller, the woodenware factory and the tin shop, also contribute to the preparation for' putting before the multitude the delectable confections that go Into homes of rich and poor alike. Sugar la the base of all candy, and while several kinds are used, there is one particular kind that Is absolutely essential. It la known as a hlgh-wlne augar, made from cane, and prepared by a special process for the use of confectioners. The granules are bjg and brilliant, sparkling like Jewels, and bave so surface Indications of relationship to the grades ordinarily used. This special sugar comes from Cali fornia. New Orleans still supplies the molasses used In certain kinds of candy. Brown sugar does not enter Into the making of candy nowadays. The pack ing houses now bave monopolized the use of this old time favorite "sweetenlnV Chocolate Making New Stunt Chocolate in the natural and the finished state Is the large Item la a candy factory, next to sugar, and where a factory makes its own chocolate largely, as the O'Brien company does, cocoa butter la likewise psed extensively. This butter has peculiar qualities of Its own, one of which is Its high melting point. It comes In large sacks which are lined with white mus lin, and is usually In the form of chunks much re sembling cheese. This is melted In Bteani-Jacketed kettles and is Combined with the ground chocolate bean, then run into a mixing machine, through which It passes twice before coming out iu the form of chocolate. To be guided through a series of floors given over to candymaking by a bouncing, buoyant booster like "Dave" O'Brien la quite an experience. Beginning on North Fifteenth street, la the Burkley building, in one room, with the front part given over to bicycles, O'Brien has grown up with the buslnesa; and, by the ame token, the candy business has grown with Omaha, until today the candy factories here compare most favorably with any In the country, both for equipment and product Any city would be proud of them. Between 400 and 600 different kinds of candles are made in Omaha. To produce these sweets for the sales counter requires the services of several hundred employes, men and women, all the year round. Just now is the busy time, all bands being engaged In getting stock ready for the Christmas trade. Especial attention is given at this season to high grade bo goods, the packages that sell all the way from 50 cents to $10 each. Here's where the artist and the rlbbonmaker tt a draw on the candy man's treasury. Pome of the fancy boxes are leal works of art, many cf the tops being Imported, some hand-painted. After the coatents have been taken from certain kinds of boxes, they are available for the toilet table, being riada especially with that ead In view. Under the randy and the wax paper is silk and satin llnlag, fit resting place for gloves and handkerchiefs. Rome of the boxes are very costly In themselves before they Hie i . TACSXNQ the candy are filled with choicest sweets, the tops alone costing anywhere from 10 to 60 cents. Extra large tops cost much more. Some Pertinent Statistics. For instance, the O'Brien factory uses 170,000 yards of silk and satin ribbon during a year and putf Into the finer boxes candy tongs to the number of 100,000. Of gold seals 600,000 are Used during the twelve months, and twelve tons of wax paper to line the boxes. Of labels, 100,000 a year are handled and pasted. A factory like O'Brien's will use 3,000 barrels of sugar In a year, while the Woodward factory the largest west of Chicago will use considerably more. Of chocolate coating the O'Brien factory uses 160 tons annually, and It Is the only concern In the west now making Us own chocolate. Twelve tons of shelled nuta are required, a ton of hoarhound herb, and fifty barrels of Maraschino cherries, In the production of which, for the candy trade, Cleveland and Cincinnati seem to have a monopoly. These come fifty gallons to the barrel, and a brief discription of how they are incorporated in candy will prove interesting. The cherry is first dipped in cream, which is really sugar in the form of "fondant" Then the cream-covered cherry Is given its chocolate coating by hand, at tables where a long line of girls do the dip ping. ' The acid quality In the cherry cuts through the cream in time, and when the sweet-tooth bites into the delicacy It is at once flooded with what is practi cally a cordial The "wine ffop," at one time so popular, but now forbidden by the pure food law, was prepared in the same way. It was melted sugar flavored as desired, then set on a tray or la a mold. As the sugar hard ened on the outside, the center was still liquid, of course, and when the chocolate or other coating was put on, shutting out the air, it remained liquid until eaten. ' Many Candy Cooks Here. "Candy kitchen" is a term used with good reason, for there are candy cooks Just as there are meat and pastry cooks. Fifty candy cooks are employed in the Omaha factories all the year round. In the big fac tories they work with thermometers, but if these In struments get out of order, the cooks can still gauge their cooking by the touch, and some old-fashioned candy cooks still insist on using their fingers to test the, "grain." In cooking sugar for candy the grain must be destroyed, and that's why beet sugar cannot be successfully employed. The grain comes back, and granulation is the result. Cane sugar gives the smoothness and body necessary to make high class candy. In a candy factory using modern methods the "four seasons" are kept eternally In mind by the candy cooks. They must vary the work In handling their materials by the season, in order to get the de sired results. No candy is made to keep any definite length of time, but weather and surroundings affect It quite materially. Good chocolate candy will keep a year without deteriorating to any appreciable extent "The American people are looking for quality to day," Bald Mr. O'Brien, "and they are willing to pay for It, in candy as In everything else. I recall one class of goods we wanted to put on the market, which, some retailers thought wouldn't 'go.' Yet we sold 4,000 packages In one month. My statement as to quality governing sales today la proved by the fact that the high class box goods are In growing demand, while the sale of what was formerly known as groc ery store candy has fallen off to almost nothing. The chocolate goods are the favorites today, and I neTer get a consignment of chocolate beans but what the fact Is recalled that Cortes and bis followers used them as a medium of exchange with the Indians, Just as furs and glass beads and other trinkets were used later on. South America is still the ground from which we get this one great Ingredient for modern candy. 'The exact nnmber of small packages put out by the Omaha factories In a year would astonish the man outside of the business, but from this factory alone we send ont probably 2,000,000 separate small pack ages la twelve montha. These are packed In larger containers In varying number, from five to thirty." Much Machinery Used. The machinery used In a modern candy kitchen, spread through three or four floors. Is slmost be wildering In its variety, and It all costs big money. OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: XOTTrBEU 13 rt ' i im mm mm i armmmmmmK Myijiniiiiiiiiiinimmi.il n iimnmu wctm mmi " 1 1 . n ,, "wmmmnwm m n mummmmmmmmmmmm g "w t I , ; ' 1 1 f - Im" f : -"" -1 i . I -r .,. ' , 1 i ' i; i i'l J I - 1 - tV . - I Hi ' ( O ; -. J-' I"" , ' , . 4 ... j rfLn H lliiiiiiiiiiiii ii II l in ni i ii ii m m mi ii n ii ii'mnmi iiiiiiiihimiiii uuiiiiiiiii ii in n 'n "'" I ! r'" " n jj r j , T - v,,-rr , . - .r75'".. 7"' '-.-h . . . . i 'llf... f 'A - . ft' ' .' ' ' r ' .: ' .: " ; . . -7- i i.r-s r.i , . n ' i i - . - - ' - -I - . - -. .. - y L II ' v ifm"''""1""'''""""""""""""'" 1 " 1 r"rTinBBnBBmniMiiTTi """" 'wwrwriivr'' -rTTssiBwlii i ' T "' " r. Here arb kettles, mixers,-printers, depositors, starch bucks and starch cleaners; and here It may be noted that the use of starch enters largely into the handling of candy after it comes from the kettles and mixing tables to the printing machines and depositories., All the starch is brushed off before the candy Is packed, except in the kinds of candy where a light coating of starch is necessary. Molds, "printers" in the factory vernacular, are used for shaping about everything made, and tbe.v turn out tremendous numbers of separate pieces every day. These pieces, on trays, are placed in a drying room for a certain time; then the candy passes to tables where nimble fingered girls give each piece whatever sort of treatment it is entitled to, carefully, but rapidly. Certain grades, like butter scotch, cara mels and Maraschino cherry chocolates, are wrapped by hand, each piece separately. After being wrapped it goes to other tables, where the inspectors look It over and see that the wrapping is properly done. These Inspectors also see to It that the candy which is not wrapped is perfect and unbroken before It is allowed to go to the girls who place it in the fancy boxes. Care, cleanliness, system, are the three watchwords of this packing room, one of the busiest scenes in Omaha. Every box that leaves a packing table Is "Just so" be fore It goes Into stock. Slabs of Sweets. Candled rose and violet petals are kept handy to Battle Hymn The story of the writing in Waahlngton of "The Battle Hymn of the Republic," by Mrs. Julia Ward Howe, whose death occurred recently, was beard from ber own lips by Francis Colton of Washington. He met Mrs. Howe while he was on duty as United 8tates consul at Venice. Speaking of her, be said: "More than two score years ago I first met Mrs. Howe in Venice. She lived near the consulate, bo we often met. I greatly admired that wonderful woman for ber st-ong personality and brilliant intellect I appreciated what she had already accomplished In the first half century of ber active life. She was at the zenith of ber marvellous career. "It was on a beautiful moonlight night in Venice that Julia Ward Howe and I sailed out into the Grand Cana toward the Adriatic A couple of intimate friends accompanied us in the gondola. The inspira tion of the surroundings suggested, many interesting subjects of conversation, and we were all only too pleased to listen to Mrs. Howe. "Suddenly someone, speaking low, said: 'Mrs. Howe, won't yon please tell us what Inspired you to write the "Battle Hymn of the Republic?"' She was Bllent for a time, as if ber mind and soul were wandering away, far away, across sea and land to the spot where that wonderful revelation had come to ber. Then she told us the story In a solemn, subdued tone, as if again she was under the influence of that spell when, years before, she stood in 'the Presence' to re ceive that sacred message known ever since as The Battle Hymn of the Republic' "Her story in brief was this: During the war of the rebellion Mrs. Howe wa staying in Washington at a time when everything was going wrong on the national side of that great conflict Our armies were largely la the hands of incompetent commanders. Recruiting was slow and publie Interest chilled by the prevailing lethargy. President Lincoln, usually so calm and untiring in bis conduct of the wsr, was 1010. the packing tables for use in the extra fancy boxes. In one room on great tables are Bpread out hun dreds of feet of sweet slabs, butter scotch, fudge and caramel. These slabs are cooled, rolled and cut into the desired sizes with surprising rapidity and exact ness. Close by are the girls who handle and prepare the pieces for packing. The ordinary size goes seventy-two pieces to the pound, and the swiftest wrap pers will handle 125 pounds a day, one piece at a time. "And that's moving along," as Dave O'Brien says. The humble but rich looking gumdrop is made up literally by the ton every day in Omaha candy fac tories. Of old, the gumdrop was a small thing, but today it is a generous mouthful. It is standard, like the hoarhound and licorice drops. The gumdrop goes out in palls; and Wisconsin, by the way, draws a big wad of money from the metropolis of Nebraska every month for palls. Nothing known in the candy line but can be found in these big factories, In every shape and form, and as unlimited expense is the rule in catering to the candy taste, so the candy eaters never fall to respond when offered something new. The candy factories cook and put on the tables of Omaha and its trlbuary territory a mountain of sweets every year; and the multitude tackles that mountain, not with bands and machinery, but with teeth and eats it, without making any wry faces, with nary a kick; in fact, with exceeding Joy. "Where does It all go " was asked Mr. O'Brien. YWell, you can say with absolute truth it goes of the Republic greatly depressed. Indeed, this depression extended over the whole land, centering fatally In "Washington. Mrs. Howe was possessed of dread and foreboding. "It was on Just such a still moonlit night as this which now surrounded us on the Venetian lagoon that Julia Ward Howe had reachedthe depths of human doubt and fear, and had retired exhausted to her couch, leaving the windows of her room open, looking out on the moonlit avenue In Waahlngton. "She told us that ber mind was so burdened with sorrow for ber country that for hours she knew not whether she slept or not, but finally a vision seemed to envelop all ber faculties. "Slowly the vision, call It inspiration or revela tion, as you will, was outside and beyond herself. It took form in prophetic words and lines and verses, till she could not longer remain quiet. She arose and went to ber table standing in the window and, hastily, by the light of the moon, wrote down the mes sage as she bad received It Then she retired to ber bed and slept soundly till daylight. When she arose and dressed herself she was oblivious of what had passed in ber hours of slumber. Passing from her room, Mrs. Howe saw some writing on ber table, which she took up snd read. She told ns that she was as much surprised as possible in reading these verses in her own handwriting. With scarcely a cor rection the 'Battle Hymn of the Republic' went out to the country. "The nation was thrilled with this wonderful hymn, which bo awakened and encouraged the people that It was sung from coast to coast "It stirred up such a frenzy of patriotism that young men by the thousand fell Into line and marched to the front, while the veterans in the field caught up the refrain and sang It to battle and victory. The Battle Hymn of the Republic measured by the fierce enthusiasm it created, was equal to thou sands of soldiers armed and inspired to battle for borne and country." Washington Star. E everywhere. The Omaha factories supply a large seo tlon of the west, and we make a great quantity of alt kinds, yet candles made elsewhere are to be found la Omaha stores. If we could make more candy w could cover more territory, but as it is we supply Ne braska, Wyoming, parts of Iowa and Kaunas and send, a greaf deal Into other states. West of Omaha 1 would be hard to strike a town where candy made la Omaha cannot be bought. The World Its Field. "Traveling men to the number of several scorn leave Omaha on missionary work In the cause of good, cheer. When I think of the Joy and gladness they spread among the little folks the thought brings a good deal of satisfaction and really gives as much real satisfaction as anything else connected with the business." Mr. O'Brien gave utterance to this expression wltoi considerable earnestness, and the trip through the Omaha candy factories indicated that their owners and managers take every possible precaution to make sure that their product shall rank as high as that put out anywhere. The best materials to be secured la the wide world are used, worked up by the most ap proved methods and with the latest In machinery. Extreme care Is used in the handling, daintiness oC packing and neatness of finished package. Contin ual watchfulness is the rule to keep the factories clean, and the work Is done In rooms well lighted an 4 ventilated. And, speaking of rooms, every Omaha randy fao tory has Its hot and cold rooms, the first for drying the newly made confections, the latter for keeping It In Just the right condition to make it pack well and) keep fresh and wholeaome. Cool Rooms Paradise in Summer. No one works long in the hot room at a time, fos It Is much like the similar apartment in the Turkish, bath, except that the hot air is dry. But in the cool rooms hundreds of girls work all the year round . and they never take cold. In summer these cool rooms are the most popular to be found in any manu facturing establishment A current of cool air, sup plied automatically, is continually passing through, and its temperature does not vary In the coldest day of winter or the warmest day of summer. Those who Imagine the making of candy is a slow pie proposition should visit any one of the Omaha fao tories when they get the opportunity. They will find; that science has a large hand in the work; that hygiene is studied to a fine point; that compounding and mixing is a nice art to produce high grade candyj and that eternal care is s necessity if success is to be achieved. It would be difficult to estimate Just the cost of. producing a pound of any given kind of candy, since a hundred different Items must enter Into the calcula tion; but every candy-maker Insists the business la done on a close margin of proflt It is a "quick business, that cannot afford to carry surplus stock, where everything made must be disposed of rapidly. That the consumption of candy Is growing by leapt and bounds is amply testified by an inspection of the Omaha factories. And Uncle Sam and the various states bave made laws which assure a generally healthful product; but, aside from any requirements of law, the candy-makers who have a reputation to sustain see to it, by every, resource they can command, that their goods shall possess a quality which will make the buyer "com back for more."