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"HB vogue for natural effect has Invaded
the fur atylea this aeaaun, and every
where the call 'for the undyed fur la
heard. The prlcp.a of all furs this season
are governed not by any particular kind of
fur but by the color and beauty of the
undyed pelta.
Practically every kind of lielt Is used
among: which are skins tha.t for the last few years have
bean listed as old fashioned the badger and the fisher,
for example. While the latter was shown to some ex
tent last season It did not by any means become what
could be called popular. Unquestionably It makes a
handsome' trimming. If striking, as the yellow and
black coloring Is rich in tone.
The badger la used this season almost entirely for
neck scarfs and muffs. A novelty of this fur was a muff
of heavy satin, with a wide band of badger wound
and there Is little of this effect seen In the more ex
pensive garments.
In regard to the fur sets there Is every Indication
that this winter will see still greater uso of the neck
piece and muff. In the expensive ones contrasting furs
are used for bands snd borders. Among the Innova
tions In neck pieces Is the shawl collar. This style of
neck piece Is graceful, warm, and comfortable to wear
as well. The collar Is made wide In the back and over
the shoulders, ending with tapering tabs with silk tassel
finish. The popular length extends to Just below the
waist line, but extremely long ones are also shown.
Other broad shouldered effects are gained by the use of
veral skins In whole animal effect. Joined In a manner
to fit over the shoulders snd finished with taba orna
mented with heads and tails.
The medium priced sets are all made In styles similar
to the more expensive one.i, but of course thedifference
In the grade of fur used controls their cost All kinds of
stoles and collars are seen, and no particular style
seems to predominate.
In regard to the animal arrangement this aesson,
usually two beads are Joined In the back with a bunch
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around It In a manner which allows the fur to conceal of large loops of wide satin ribbon, snd extending over
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tne foundation. The head and the tall were used as
trimming. Fox Is everywhere shown and Is smart In
deed. HUver fox Is expensive, of course, so It Is not
found In any of the medium priced sets. But there Is
any number of low cost fur sets shown In black fox.
Lynx, marten, moleskin, and chinchilla are also fash
lonahle. Australian opossum and skunk, too, are shown
In all the new fur modea. Astrakhan Is gaining In favor,
particularly the popular priced sets In the finest moire
grade.
The trend of style follows closely the costume fssh
lons, which require long, graceful lines and rich, effect.
In regard to the fur coats of the season, while there
has been a persistent effort made to force the ahort fur
coat. It has not met with favor. Everywhere the long
coat is being demanded Instead.
The actual length of the season's coat Is largely a
matter of personal taste, as It Is shown full length and
also made several Inches from the edge of the gown.
The preferred cut seems to be the straight line modal,
which practically allows no curve at the waist Nearly
all of the highest priced models have a wide band of fur
extending around the bottom edge, making a border
which In some cases slIglAly draws In the fullness.
These coats are shown In plush and caracal, pony,
Persian lumb. coney, French seal all the short haired
furs are used. Moleskin and lynx form a new combina
tion of furs used In coats this season. The use of con
trasting pelts for collars, cuffs, and sometimes a band
at the bottom of the coat. Is another Interesting
feature of this season's furs
The linings of fur coats and sets are by no means un
important features. Many high prl ced fabrics sre usej.
such ss rich brocades, some of which have designs
worked out In gold thresd; then there sre satins, both
plain and in brocade. In the finest quality. The demand
fur linings In Persian effects seems to have spent itself,
the shoulders, a broad flat stole reaches knee length.
Another attractive style of animal arrangement la
where the two skins have the head of one animal
lapped over the tail of the other, thus making the front
finished with head on one side of the flat stole and
the tall on the other.
In still another style two animals sre Joined in the
back with one tsll and two paws extending over the
shoulders nearly to the waist line and end with a head
on either aide.
. The mors simple style of curving the fur around the
neck, with the head of the pelt on one side and the tall
on the other, lsmore commonly seen and Is good style.
Many of tha neck pieces are lined with sstln In puffed
style, but In a number of cases soft chiffon Is used in
veiling effect.
Empire scarfs are seen In the high grsde models and
are rich in appearance. They are wide and are cut per
fectly strslght. reaching to tha waist line in the back
and ending In the front Just above the hem of the gown.
Trimmings are applied at tha ends in the form of con
trasting fur bsnds with a large, flat pillow muff trimmed
to match the scarf.
The muffs of the season are the "barrel" and trie
" semi-barrel " The large, flat muff Is equally good
style and Is usually ornamented with animal head and
tails. The rug muff Is not seen to any great extent
this season. An effective style Is the use of two skins
arranged around the muff pillow, which i just the jilse
required to allow the heads and tails to meet. Other
excellent results are obtained by the use of bands of
fur combined with contrasting fur, chiffon, velvet and
plush.
Furs of all kinds are strongly favored as trimmings
for costumes and suits. Skunk. oposum, badger, mole
skin, snd chinchilla bands are used at tha bottom-of
skirts, snd frequently edge tunics, collar, cuffs, snd
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Coax of22eoai-ta.zl Tkvsiin
Blue Opossum .
Ft.-c'Tz'xmtma on Tailored Suits Are "Expected.
to few a. Treyrte-trLcloL: 3 V3pe-
revers. Small pieces of fur inset in the trimmings
afford a new note much admired.
A new fur shown for trimming purposes Is the un
dyed muskrat. It appears on tailored auits aVd wrapa.
This fur, which Is of whitish gray cast with dark brown
ish center stripes, faces cuffs and forma large collars on
cloth snd velvet suits. It has somewhat the coloring of
grebe feathers, but Is of deeper tones of cream, gray,
and brown. It Is not expensive and it has the merit of
novelty.
Furs are used to some extent In trimming indoor
dresses, too. For this purpose leopard, red fox, 'broad
tall, caraoAl, golden fitch, opossum, raccoon, and fisher
are all used. Motor coats are invariably trimmed with
these Inexpensive furs.
Among the novel Ideas in furs are suits made entirely
of fur. With these the three-quarter coat Is shown.
The edge of U.e narrow skirt Is deeply faced with fur,
the, three-quarter cost meeting this and giving the
effect of an entire garment.
Late Notes of Fashion from Abroad.
Jacket styles favor ahort. Jaunty lines, cut with
straight seams, having less curve in under the arm than
has been the nature of the semi-fitting coats of the last
three seasons.
The novelty of the winter for tailored suits Is ratine.
It Is a roiinh material. It Is raised wool tn plain or
d;fTerent colored threads and comes in stripes or In a
diagonal weave.
I.ortg coats of plush or fur will bs worn quite as
much as last winter, and they will be plain, buttons
forming their principal trimming, and perhaps a collar
of some other kind of fur.
New silk stockings sre In "tone" shades rather than
distinctive colors. (J 'in metal gray silk stockings with
any kind of suede shoes are f ushlnnahle. Moat of the
new stockings have dainty flower "clocks."
Little girls sre wearing Little P.ed Riding Hood rapes
with puckered hoods, only they are not merely red hut
every color imaginable to match the sashes and ribbons.
They are made of French flinne! or chiffon cloili. only
the hood being lined wltii thin silk.
The sleeves of the most dressy wslsts sre almost ex
clusively composed of a rap and a closely fitting uiuler
slieve of some sheer material, usually the same ss that
of the yoke of the waist. Much braiding and embroidery
Is used around tha outline of the yoke and the ede of
the sleeve cap.
Among evening garments there are torn regal crea
tions in black and white. One of tha most beautiful
of those I have seen was a wrap of black velvet
heavily trimmed In tailless ermine. Broadtail, pure
white ermine, and ermtnette are among the modela
shown.. They are all lined with beautiful brocades n
metal effect snd In velvet and satin In high coloring.
In some of these fur mantles tha gold and silver linings
of brocade are plainly visible through the sleeve open
ings and are often formed into sort of an Inside sleeve.
Before selecting one's furs this season there are a few -points
to remember. The first is that no greater fallaoy
exists than to say any kind of fur becomes anybody.
This season, when almost every kind of fur Is worn,
there Is no excuse for one selecting an unbecoming fur.
The thing to remember la that certain fura will suit
only certain people. - The sooner a woman recognise
this fact the sooner will furs become an aid to her
beauty. '
The hair of the blonde Is a mixture of red, yellow, and
brown. As a rule, the skin Is lighter; that la, It coo
tains not so much orange, and the tints) of red are
lighter. Nature, therefore, obeying the law of har
monious contrast, makes the blonde's eyes blue, com
plementary toyhe orange In her hair.
The brunette's skin, on the other hand, has more
orange In It, and hence a color that would be favorable
to one would be antagonistic to the other.
Better, from a purely artistic point of view, a cheep
fur which does suit Its wearer than real sables in which
she would probably look her worst.
For those who are aallow, whether they be brunettes
or blondes, or between colors, or nondescript, gray Is by
far the safest choice. Oray, while It tends to whiten the
yellowness of skin, also deepens anything there may
be of roxe In II is or cheeks. The blue gray, however,
should be avoided, as II has, owing to Its coldness of
tone, a tendency to reduce the too vivid tones of those
who are floridly Inclined.
The brunette shows to best mlvantage In the lighter
shades of mink, sable, red and yellow fox, If she has
the olive or Hallow skin. If 'he has red and brown or
a red and cream complexion she can wtur with success
every variety of golden brown and light brown,' gray
ami blue tray, and black gray fur. Mink, marten, sable,
or chinchilla will be found especially becoming.
T'ne blonde of the pink and white, golden, or golden
brown hatred type cun wear with success all white furs,
all black furK, and where the eyes' are dark, chinchilla
and blue fox.
The siilta'illlty of the fur pelts must be carefully
Miidled and considered If one would appear at her best
in furs, for furs either make or mar one's costume.