11 r,AYj t u 1 1 t 1 vv rv- trfw 1 An Autumn Evening Gown Things You Want to Know Tli (toTrrnmcnt t Vik lVHrtinont I'rmnitMxc l.nlior. nn: p.f,t:: omatia. Thursday, octorur w. 1010. ffilcSi A ; k'--'-. ".. ---. '4 t l If im rnilr ;iiwn 1 not of velvet, half of It will bo thin yenr. l'or example, this frooU of mamlarln blue atln, embroidered In Bold, had Hlieves and a deep flounce of black velvet, the flounce falling above a Daughters of 7-1 S V-.i. v.' V ; -4 Miss Heatrtce Harraden. the EiiKllnh tiovelUU la a well liked In tlila country aa in eel native land. She la the ounteat dauKfvtor of ;he late Samuel Har raden of London, learned man who was an authority on muwlc and the fellow of aeveral leading- Kilentlflo socletie. iiirlqir har earlier years Miss Harraden found In he.r father. her sternest critic. She derived Die freateit benefit from his in IrHectual companlonehlp and baa been 5- rd to Bay, (hat. havlnn once passed . rouuh the fire of her father' crttlclsin, noihluit else mattered. .Via Harraden wao turn in London and received the first part of her education In Iresdeu. Afterward ahe worked for some time at Cbeltrtuham collide under Mis lk-ale, and afterward studied at Bedford c)llee. Londun. l.i i.i slie lec.lved the dogree of bfcchelor of aria from London university, not only In classic, but In mathematlca luiinu all tills buy Uiue Mis Harraden found leisure to do some literary work and to master the violoncello. She 1 nasalon aiely devoted to music. A gieai deal of unsigned literary work came from her pen. After taking her degree she wrote several short sioiles for magazines. Soon after she n Mr. I.ynn Union, the Un.lisu novelist, who gave her the warmest encoui atemenr Militant Blackwood also trengthened her V - :;:- Aft? t,- .. sT ......' ., .- 4 le.lj r' (4 Vi'IU I eo! utlon to write ynfoitunately. soon (jfter he had ac- oiml a tory from her called "Tim fm. Mender," Mis Hanaden fell verv ill and lost the use of li. r right hand through ie anUre failure of the ulnar ner by overatrain In writing and playing the 'cello, she was sent to Switierland. but on l..r i. torn fell III again, ruder the ad Vine aaiU caru of a piislUsu who under 1 r j i 1 'I i -1 x i J: ' . ."? .' . J .; ..:. ' f ? t s - ... ft.-,.. H 1 - . MManNwwMKM 1 4 ,4 , ' trulllntf iklrt of blue satin. The sleeves are close and lonn, and In combination with the niuure decolletage and jia 1 1 !y bared blioulders produce a quaint, old-fashioned effect. Famous Hen j . i'-: r i . V stood her nervous temperament ahe re- xalned a certain amount of vitality and was induced to resume work. Writing; was a difficulty, as sha was too Irritable for dictation and disliked the type writer. ' Ships That J'ass In the Night" was, then fore, written with the greatest dilficulty. Her maiiuscrii t a a neat and fine as rhailotle Bronte's. The book niado an Instant suciesa here and in Eng land, far eclipsing Miss Harraden' first success, a little book for children, "Things v ill Take a Turn." Her later works Include "In Varying Moods." published In 1X1; "Hilda Straf ford." in IviT; -'I'litold Tale of the Paat." a second book for children, published In l'.'7; 'The Fowler," in m; "Katherine Freiisham." In lmtf; "The Scholars Daugh ter." In l:m. and "Intel play." in lm. Miss Harraden mikes her permanent home in London, although she travels a good deal. (iip right, l.'io. tiy the N. y. Herald Co.) r Daily Health Hint J This wise old ad.ne was entant In Rome durlna' Ihe an, 1,'iit republican days: "If thou would.-t lengthen thy days, lesson thy lllHi J." rrjk-.rras. F.ich tar the millinery show Make.-, life se.-in smew tiat sunnier. In. hats can no lai Ker, ao They try to make them funnier. T. K. M i' rsistetii Adei Using is the Koad to Ulg licluius. on Tms tlii, o r 1 MOkE.OR AM I OREAMlNG? NO'. I'h NOT DRErVhA- NG ! "THERE IT fra nnnm lUUILMMJU Whow in Wur (krAbllv DID I GET HERE? OM'. wwjaj tl 4 i If anieii -ataMsMgimiMIM-ilMiici, 44 I AM I ON A riM H 3 I ; : I EL ? 1 AM! r,nl t U r A. l -'7 V- f V ' : " M! IS . V K N J 1 U V The Boss of the Establishment BY AMEHK MANiN. The Boss of the pBtabllshmcnt turned the key In the doorof his new home at Mountalnvtlle. He did not have to dodge anything as he entered a pleaslnt? re minder of the fact that he no lonijer dwelt In a New York flat. On his way up from the station the cedar hedges of adjacent homes had sent him perfumed messages of peace. Neighborly dows had waKged friendly tails and sniffed his garments with unqualified approval. The man who lived next door had offered blm a really good cigar. There was, In fact, no flaw In his happiness; nt least there was none until his ife, appearing suddenly in the open doorway, observed In the laconlo tonesof tragedy : "Mary's gone! She went this morning! She doesn't know ten persons In New York, but she said she was lonesome. I didn't pay any attention to her complaints and when I went down to the kitchen this afternoon I found a note from her saylnn; that she couldn't stand It any longer and that she had gone! And she has!" added his wife sorrowfully, "that's the worst of it." . "The best of It, you mean," the Boss retorted cheerfully. "I never liked her, anyhow." Thus llRhtly he deposed of an admiration of yeurs. "But you mustn't take these things so seriously." "My dear," replied the woman solemnly, "If you had the faintest conception of the Servant problem in surburban towns you would not speak so. We are to use one of your favorite, remarks 'up against If and there's no use pretending anything else." The Bos laughed derisively. "You've let some of these people around the neighbor hood frighten you," ho said. "The servant problem Is entirely of the employer's mak ing. Treat a girl properly and Blie'll never leave you." "How about Mary? I Just rave her my last year's suit thla morning and I mli;ht very well have worn It on rainy days. Bhe's a miserable, ungrateful thing!" The Boss' wife, as her lord perceived, was dropping tears of vexation and disap pointment. "I'on't you care about Mary," he urged reassuringly. "I'll bring you out a cook from town tomorrow. This servant prob lem Is all nonsense. There iBn't any. Give a girl good wage, a good home and de cent treatment and she'll stick until she dies and then her ghost will come back and Ret on the Job." "I hope you're rltsht," the Boss' wife an- Items of "Have 1 told you of the hot water rest cure?" a woman asked another recently. "No? I regard it a quite Invaluable, for it will relieve nervoua tension and make a woman look and feel fresh even after a busy day. "Hot water compresse are very refresh ing and toning In many different case of Illness. I am not prescribing for Illness. I use them when my eyes are tired and my brain feels dull In other word, when I am fagged. "I take off all tight garment and make my couch ready to lie on. A piece of rub ber cloth 1 put over the pillow and at the head of the couch a little table on which la a small ga stove with a basin of water. The stove is not essential, but It keep the water from growing cold. "Before lying down I sip a cup of hot water slowly. Heat In the stomach helps to take away blood pressure from the head Then I place a square of soft wblie flannel In the water, wring It and place the cloth at the back of my head, bandage faabiub. This lucaaa that the pad 1 on Hi I IT UST BE AN vj Ul I C117TH r j I A K r nk I1 L II SOMETHING! PE -CLARE I'll HAVc 0 GET UP'. WHOA! COME back. .HERE! WHOA!!!!'.'. ! I I ll 1 El 'A t-jf'- W W "TTlrWHOA! IF I HADj 1 Tina (3 YCXJT? NEW COOK. swered rather soberly. Her tone Implied that she knew he wssn't. "Of course I'm right," the Boss acqui esced eagerly. "It's funny how the most competent woman will be floored by the servant problem. It takes a man with some Idea of tact and diplomacy to deal with It. Don't you bother your pretty little head about Mary's successor any more. I'll attend to It," he ended grandly. "All right, I won't," his wife solemnly aurc-ed. But ahe spent all the next day wondering what measure of success would reward his boast fulness. It was 5 o'clock in the afternoon before she knew. At that hour her ear, already attuned to he country noises, detected the Boss' footfall on the piazza. After him lumbered something which made the tread of a baby ' elephant sound as if soft-pedalled. Suddenly the door was flung open. "Hero'a your new cook," the Buss an nounced triumphantly. The Boss' wife looked up from the desk at which she had been answering a dozen "Situations Wanted" advertisements. A young colored woman, very tall, very Btout and tremendously overpowering, smiled condescendingly into her face. "Ah'd like to see the kitchen range!" she proclaimed, with a hint of Iron beneath her velvet tones. She Inspected the range and promptly declared It wouldn't do. A new one must be Installed Immediately or she could a t stay. The Boss' wife promised this' Improve ment meekly. "Ah's not used to workin' In no kitchen without linoleum on the floor! I reckon Interest lor the Women Folk the pillow. Then I wring out another cloth and put tout over the top of my lace, press ing the material In closely eo It will lie over the eyes and touch the temples and face close to the nose. "As soon a the compress show a sign of growing cool 1 replace It with another, and I continue for fifteen minutes and sometimes longer. At the end of that time I get op and bathe my fuco thoroughly in cold water, to tighten the skin, which ha been relaxed by the nat treatment. Then I darken the room and lie down a,,itn for fifteen minute After that 1 am as fresh a can be. The treatment 1 simple, but as a rult It acts fa vol ably. .Most of tin- exhaustion a woman has Is from the nerves, find if they ure relaxed she lakes a fresh lease of life for the time." The maribou scarfs are so delightful tint it is impossible for the average woman not to covet their possession. The newest I fitted In the back with several ta.ls. an additional beauty, that women will w.ll lUfciy v- for. la buck or natural, a ' vlTUIt Iklv VA.aV-'fr .' I 1 1 1 r r ,i 4 fm- m i . (S t . .-r. l 3 :.l -II f llL t u w i i n l"i 1 r c w i i M , 'J I. - S -IF - UMP. BUMP iwhoa! lMATi JUST Wl'T BLAME THE LOOGE! I ATE A fWHAT I THOUGHT IF RAREBIT AFTFK. I TDUWENI 10 m WA OVEKAI iLODOE TO-fJII MAPE nE 1(1 NIGHT! JHvPREfn. I i'n.'laii ' i If . " 4 SXt He Invades the Kitchen and Starts Some Necessary Reforms. J I got to have some," she added. The Boss' wife promised a second time. Ana Cora such was -the nume uf the dusky giantess forthwith settled down to her work and cooked an excellent dinner. "She's a pearl a black pearl," declared the lady admiringly to the Boss. The Boss smiled In reciprocating admira tion and settled down to his slippers for the evening. Dozing comfortably over his evening paper he was nevertheless roused by his wife's mention of the new paragon. "She said she had arranged to spend the night at her cousin's after she got through her work, so I told her she might go," the Bosb' wife volunteered. "But she has no cousin In Mountalnvllle." the Boss protested. "She told ne at the employment agency she had no relatives!" The Boss rose and began to pace up and down the floor. "See here," he said, gazing through the door of the dining room, "she's got all the dishes piled up In the butler's pantry, and I don't believe she intends to wash them tonight! You go tell her that won't do!" "No," said the Bobs' wife firmly. "I'm afraid. You tell her she's known you so much longer than she has me." The Boss quailed. l "Why shou'ld 1 tell her?" he answered. "You know I never Irterfere In woman's sphere! Tell her yourself!" The Boss' wife, with chattering teeth but a set purpose, descended to the kitchen. Cora listened to her remarks In gloomy silence. "Ah don't believe I'm goln' to like it here," she announced. "Ah's worked for the best families In New York an' nobody never told me nothln' before!" "Perhaps you were a little abrupt," the Boss commented. "The girl'a new and you mustn't expect everything from her. I be lieve I'll talk to her. You've got a great deal to learn about treating' servants, my dear." The Boss disappeared Into the eullnnrv depths and the next moment the midnight Venus appeared In the living room. "AhVn goln," she announced, firmly. And then suddenly she turned to the Boss' wife. "Ah don't mind you, ma'am," she said, "but Ah refuses to take orders; from any man person!'" Cora glanced significantly at the Boss and added: "Ah'l ceiok breakfast and then Ah' go." And she strode from the room, shaking the chandelier a she went. "There's no uch thing as a servant prob lem, is there?" the Boss' wife asked serenely. But Die Boss merely glared and glared and made no reply. (Copyright, 1910, by the N. Y. Herald Co.) J maribou boa of four strands each, two yard long, trimmed with fifteen tails, costs il.'M. Without the tails prices besln at MOO. 1'eiur strands Jolud with strip of shirred rh.ff.in make a f is'inating scarf and, bought ready for wear, will cost from i u,niu. i ne Drowns, tipped with white. are a little more expensive, but they are mor effective. Pe t of Saxon scalloped I nens are of fered by a Urge Broadway ste.re at very moderate prlivs, considering material and workmanship. They are mad- from pure f.at linen with firmly buttonholed scal loped ciig, s, w th an o, ,-n ee,-t of em l ioidery above. The elollis conn- in both round and square shapes, in siz, s from six to twelve Inches, pr cewl from 7 to 22 cents. Center piece measure from eigh teen to thirty-six Inches and e-ost from :w cents to 1 i,. (Hal tray covers, beginning at inches, are 10 cents each, and go up to 30 on's for size 11x20 inches Scarfs are cluhte-n Inches wide an 1 vary in pr.ee from w cent tu ft accoidiug tu sliu. The Department of Commerce and l.nhoi' Is a sort of iiiiiyall for bureaus ami gov ernmental activities which do not fit 'n elsewhere. Corporation control, labor af fairs, Immigration and n.iturallz.itlon, census taking, statistics eif commerce, the interests of manufacturers, the welfare of navigation, the safety of steamboat traffic, the warning of mariners, fish propagation, const and geodetic .survey and the regu lation of standards of measurement, are some of the tilings with which the depart ment deals. To the bureau of exirporatlons Is as signed ihe dulv of examining the opera-1 tlons of Interstate corporations, other than I comtmin carriers. This bureau uses as Its "tig stick" a weapon which Herbert Knox Strlth, the commissioner of e-orporatlons. terms "efficient publicity." The bureau examines the records of all corporation doing an Inters. ate business, and In lm pirtant cases voluminous reports showing all the dotal 1 of a great business. Notable examples of this are Its Investigations of the Heef trust, the Standnrd Oil company and the Tobacco trust. It also has In-ves-tlg.-ited the steel and Iron business of the country and many other Important In dustries. Most of the big prosecutions of trusts have been based on data gathered by this btireiu. I'pon the bureau of labor has devolved the task of gathering statistical and other Information relative to labor problems. It does not aim to remedy the Ills of the laboring man, but to gather data which will enable other agencies to act intelli gently in trying to cure them. The bureau's reports deal with labor's relation.' to capital, its hours, Its earnings and means for promoting the material, social and moral prosperity of working men and women. Ha data relative to the relation of wages and prices constitutes one of the basis upon which the tariff legislation of the country Is formulated. It ha studied such questions as working men's Insurance, benefit funds, the employment of women and girls In telegraph and tele phone work, retail prices, child labor, In dustrial accidents and charity relief. It also has investigated the relation of dusty occupations and tuberculosis. The bureau of Immigration and natural ization has charge of the coming of aliens Into the United States and of their effort to become full-fle-dged American citizens. One person In every three In the I'nlted States Is an Immigrant or the child of an Immigrant. Frequently 6,000 Immigrants arrive in one day, and upon some occa sions the average Is 5,000 a day for a full month. This gives the Inspectors only two minutes to each Immigrant, and a question must be asked and answered every second. Only one Immigrant out of a thousand la excluded. However, the lines of restric tion are being drawn tighter every year. The head taxes collected from Immigrants more than support both the Immigration and naturalization uervices of the coun try. As the law now stands an Immigrant may come Into the l"nlted States If he is not afflicted with a loathsome disease or Is not likely to become a public charge. The statistics of prisons and eleemosynary Institutions show a large proportion of alien Inmates, and the Immigration service hopes to have the law changed so that all who are "economically undesirable" may be excluded. The total money brought into the United States by Immigrants amounts to about $17,000,0u0 a year, or nearly $113 a head. The heavy Immigration from southern Kurope Is attributed mainly to the promo tion of the steamship agencies of Europe and the professional money lenders. They make large profits out of the Immigrant business, and even If they have to carry some of the Immigrants back, It still leaves enough profit to make the business worth while. The immigration service wants a law requiring all steamship com panies to make oath that they will not encourage Immigration, with a refusal of clearance papers as a penalty for Its vio lation. One of the most troublesome things with which the Immigration service has to deal Is the smuggling of Chinese Into the United States. Sometimes they slip In from Canada anl Mexico In sealed refrig erator cars or In the refrigerators of din. ing cars. At other times they come hidden in coal bunkers, chain lockers, forepeaks, and other unexpected parts of ocean going vessels. The immigration bureau esti mates that one-half of the Chinese now In the United States have no right to be here under the law. There la also a division devoted to the naturalization of Immi grants. Another division seeks to furnish immigrant with Information which will In Dainty and Modish arc Hats Seen in New Autumn Display It certainly will be a woman's own fault If she wears unbe ooiulng millinery this sea son. Never before, perhaps, was seen such a dlvc-slty or shapes, all equally modish, a is present in the new fall display. Ivtiige hats ore worn, but so are small ones. The drooping brim on the mushroom order is correct, but not mure so than the brim that flares off the face a little to the left or directly In front as considered becoming to the wearer. High crowned hats, suggesting large Inverted bowls, are been by the side of hal crown a flat as a saucer, while narrow brim and deep, broad, scoop brims vie with each other for favor. At present the popular shape Is the me dium mushroom medium In every way. The round crown Is not too high nor Is the brim too deep. The trimming la moderate. It will be a twist uf velvet around the crown caught Into upstanding loops at the left side, finished with an ornament, eir If the ornament Is very handsome, It Is often the hat's sole decoi ation. The newebt In the larger shape has u wide brim that scoop both back and front, the latt'-r being supported by a bandeau resting upon the hair, which brings the brim eier the face in front. Taken all in all the hat Is riot unl.ke a modified Dolly Yard, n, larger, bjt showing the same co quettish hues. Another M.ape that Is n w has a fairly low clown and broad brim, slightly droop ing. The tiluimJug cousist of u wreath made fiom uncurled ostrich feathers, show ing freinds of the feather on one side of tlie qiill only. In some way the ends of the feathers are almost brought together U form circles, which are then sewed In wreath i ffect. When plae'ed on the I at, only a little of the crown and about two inches of the brim are visible. Only a tall, stunning looking w'uiian should attempt such a piece of millinery, but every woman who sees )t will covet It, whether becom ,ng to her or not. A very smart hat In a moderate size hows the lines wf the Napoleon. The crown Is round and the brim. In three t e llons, tallies up sharply on e.ic.'i side and at the back. The trimming ceinslsts ef a plume paitaing directly over the crown duce them to go to section of the country where they ran be readily assimilated and used In the economic development of the nation. The bureau of the census Is now a per manently organlzeel Institution which gath ers statistical data on every sort of ub. J'ct. In an ordinary ear It prints nearly toon pages of statistical information. Its Inquiries relato to such suh.lee-t a mar riage and divorce, religious bodies, inanu faetur.Ks, vital statistics, etc. In the cen sus years it gathers the statistics of iku ulatlon. agriculture, mines, quarrle and manufactures. This retiuires 8.10 aupervl sii s and tlvOnO enumeiators. In the work of tabulating the returns, Jo.ooO.Otm popula tion cards are us.d. and ao.OnO.OUO family cards. There are punching machine which punch from one to holes In each card. One hole tells the line of the person for which the card stands, 'another the color, another the marital condition, etc. After the cards are punched, they are fed Into tabulating machines, where an electrical connection s formed nt each hole which tells Just what information each card con tains, i ho machine then records and tabu lates this Information. The statistics of agriculture are prepared on adding ma chines. The statistical abstract. Issued by this bureau, is the finest comendlum of governmental ftalistli-aJ Information In the world. The bureau of manufae-tui cs Is the agency fur the collection and dissemination of In formation with reference to foreign trade opiiortunltlM. Operating In conjunction with the consular service It gathers every sort of information that will enable the Amorlcan manufacturer to extend hi for eign trade. The bureau of navigation hit charge of the enforcement of the law reference to the Oeration of the Izt.OiO ves sels In the American merchnnt marine, with the exception of those law which relate to steamboat Inspection. Thla Inspection Is made to asoertaln the aea-worthlneaa of vessels, the safety of their bollors, tholr proper equipment with life preserver and other protective appliances. Nearly 400,000, 000 passengors are carried annually on boats reporting to this bureau. The lighthouse board look after the lighthouse's and lightship of the coast of the United States. The bureau of fish eries has thirty-five hatcheries, and eighty four Bubhatcherles, auxiliaries and egg col lecting stations, it propagate three spe cies of marine fishes, five specie) of river fishes, seven of great lake fishes, and fif teen of Inland fishes. Over 3,000,000,000 fish and eggs were distributed last year. The bureau has done much for the preservation of oyster Industry. One-half of the world'a total production of oyster Is gutlu-red In the Chesapeake Bay and It tributaries. The oyster feeds on diatoms, microscopic, animals of the sea, and the government has been, growing these diatom for the benefit of the oyster. The coast and seodetlo survey surveys the harbors and coast line of the United States, establishes Its Mexican and Cana dian boundaries, issues charts, pilot charta, tide tables and notice to mariners. All the Information we have abbut the depth of water In the various harbors of the country and along the coast is gathered by this survey. The bureau of standards has an Im portant function to perform. All mechan ical progress depends upon accurate meas urements. There must be Instruments for recording the Imperceptible Jar of a dis tant earthquake, the millionth part of a degree of heat, etc. Thla bureau keeps all American standards of measurement. The parent measurement of length In this coun try is an exact copy of the world's na tional standard meter at St. Clouds, France. It 1 kept In a room perfectly ventilated, carefully lighted and of an even temper ature. The steel tapes used by the coast and geodetic survey are made of Invar and have only one-twenty-eighth a much ex pansion through heat a steel. The stand ard by which they are tested Is kept packed In ice in an underground laboratory. The standard of measurement of the bu reau are as accurate for all other kinds of measurement as those for length. In addi tion to Its work In maintaining the standards by which all American measures are reg ulated, the bureau of standards tests every thing that the government uses, from the electric lights with which It offices are lighted to the Ink and the paper upon .which Its records are kept. It also does testing work for private concerns upon the payment of established fees. By l-KEDEBIC J. HA.SKIH. Tomorrow The Oovernment at Work XL Tb Smithsonian Institution. from front to back, the quill secured by a handsome ornament set with mock Jewels or a knot of velvet, or sometimes both. A hat with crown of white isatln and brim faced with black velvet was trimmed with a black plume starting from a knot of royal bluer velvet pinned with an ornament In dull French gray silver mounted . with the topaz. The little frill of lace peeping from the brim of the hat seems to be absent from the smartest and most expensive mlllnery, but the mob cap with frill of lace to b placed on the head before putting on th but Is often sold with the frllle-ss hat to be worn or not. us preferred. These cap are taking the place of the evening hat and are retain, hI If worn to the theater, as they are unobstruslve, therefore unob jectionable to others. Velvet Is used for covering more than ever, black velvet espeelally. In trim mings, feathers predominate. This Is al ways a favored decoration for winter hats, but more are seen this year than ever. When the feather Is not straight, un rurled and alteigether skeleton like. It Is very handsome, always wlllowed, and some times twice. Two of these will form the entire trimming of one of the large hats. KLJZAlii;TH Derision from the Beach. The man who doe not need credit Is ths one who most often get It. If the necessities of life keep on increas ing In price, It will soon be cheaper to llv on the luxuries. It 1 not hard for the man who speaks only kind words to swallow them. A sensible girl would rather that her lover have a business plant than a family tree. , When wemien get on the police taff, what will become of the plaln-eiothe cop? Kiss. should alway be taken at their face value. Woik and failure are often the parents of success. Children are not the only persons who need guardians these day. The poor man seldom ha to prov his honoty. Jud(