IT
10
THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBETi 2, 1910.
The October Bride and
Her Pretty Negligees
"Being beautiful In one's boudoir In so
absurdly simple, with the wealth of dis
tracting negligees to choose from In the
shops, that the wonder In that so many
women spend hours In their own company
looking like frumps.
Thus spoke little Hetty, the bride-to-be,
looking contentedly nt herself In the nor
ror. fiver the top of a bewitching; chiffon
affair, all sfoam with frothy frills of
creamy lace, and defining her pretty figure
In an indefinite way without emphasising
any particular curve the unmistakable
hall-mark of Parisian workmanship.
The negligee wan made of accordion
peach pink chiffon over satin of the same
delicate shade and across the shoulders
were tossed two wide strips of cream lace
which fell below the hips at back and
front In rounded tab effect. A satin girdle
passed beneath these lace strips, pointing
upward nt the back to a point between the
shoulders, where there was a flat bow of
four loops of the satin. A cascade of Val
enciennes lace matching the shoulder
straps fc 11 down the front and the accor
dion pleiited chiffon sleeves fell back to
reveal Inner sleeves of lace. It was surely
a neglige de luxe and bespoke Its 1'arls
origin In every line.
"Did you send to Paris for It?" asked
somebody In an awed whisper; but Hetty
Hrlde-to-be denied this gaily.
"Indeed, no," quoth she, "all the big
shnp have departments which send to
Paris for things of this sort. There may
be but a dozen models brought over each
season, but they are gems, and. of course,
one may re-order; or, If you are a well
known customer the Paris buyer will keep
you In mind when the trip Is mndo and
bring back something especially pretty for
you. Here's another beauty."
She whisked out of the pink chiffon dream
and Into one of pale blue chiffon Into
which were set wonderful motifs of blonde
silk lace. This negll.-e was not accordion
pleated, out was cut In beautiful flowing
lines, which, while outllnglng shoulder and
arm, gave plenty of room at the foot,
where there was a six-Inch flounce of accordion-pleated
chiffon set on with an In
sertion of the lace. "No matter how nar
row skirts are, ' explained Hetty, "a neg
ligee should have a flowing grace and free
dom about the feet. I've seen 'smart'
kimonos banded In like the gowns, around
the bottom under narrow hems, but 1 don't
care to mince arouna In my bed room Ilka
do Cio 8nn In Madame Butterfly. A neg
ligee Is supposed to be the epitome of
grace, and mine are going to live up to
this ideal."
The blue chiffon one certainly did. It
was dropped over a lining of thin blue
llherty silk Just the color of Betty's eyes
and the fastening was arranged at the bust
with blue satin loops over two Jewels of
turquolso buttons with rhlnestone rims.
"Hut." 01 lected one of Betty's brlde.s-mnlds-to-be
who was sitting on the bed
munching fudge, "one can't be beautiful In
one's boudoir In such negligees all the
time. Suppose one for Instance, In rinsing
out a luce Jabot, or drying one's hair by
the raldator what about Paris negligees
then ?"
"Ho," assured the bride-to-be. "I've plenty
of that sort, too." She disappeared In a
closet and emerged with a garment over
each arm. "These are warm and prac
tical' she asserted. "This oneof pink
French flannel Is Just a room gown to
slip on over your nightie after your bath.
You see It Is cut on straight, simple lines,
with only a bit of a curve In to the figure
at the back and the sleeves are nice and
loose and comfy. I buttonholed all the
edges In white myself, and made the cord
and tassels iit of twisted pink and white
"worsted." The fastening In this little
flanivd gown was made of pink ord loops
over pink crochet cuttons and the gown
opened In double-breasted fashion. Betty,
who had looked deep Into the negligee
question, explained that ribbons are not
used on smart negligees any more for
fastenings; all the hand-made French gar
ments close with loops and buttons.
The other "warm and practical" gown
was a most attractive model of Persian
patterned challls showing tones of blue,
orange and old Dutch pink, and It was
fashioned In the Russian style with one
front crossing to the left and the sleeves
cut all In rne, with no seam at the shoul
der. There wax a border of deep blue satin
and though the negligee had no girdle, the
lines curved In gracefully In seml-flttlng
style to define waist and hip at back and
sides.
Out of a box Betty lifted a lovely affair
of thin white albatross over blue silk which
she told us bad also been bought ready
made and which she Intended to keep for
occasional days of Indisposition for which
something especially becoming In the way
of a boudoir gown should always be at
hand. Thin levely negligee, being of wool
albatfross. was warm enough for winter
wear and the silk lining added to Its warm
cosiness. The edges were hemmed with
blue featherstllchlng and broad, soft blue
satin ilhbons fell from neck to hem In
front, at either side of a frill of white
mechlln lace. The sleeves opened from
in, lor to elbow on the outer edge and
were caught together with , blue ribbon
knots over a ruffled undersleeve of lace.
"Sleeves," observed Betty, oracularly,
"make all tho difference In a negligee. This
gown looks like Paris partly because of the
sleeves; but It Is really an American pro
duct and was quite cheap. It pays," she
went on, "to buy a really good negligee
garment one made of good materials and
In good style, for these garments change
little from year to year and they may be
dry-cleaned to look like new."
Betty brought out, then, some fetching
little Jackets which Bhe called "breakfast
eacques," one of which was made of gay
oriental silk In a Persian pattern with a
plain silk border; and the other of pink
challls dotted with white. They were made
alike, with seamless shoulders and sleeves
gathered Into a little cuff below the elbow,
und the front of each lapped over and fast
ened with cord frogs on the Persian Jacket
red silk frogs and gilt buttons, and on the
pink Jacket pink cords and pink buttons.
White lace frills down the side of the front
opening and In the sleeve edges daintlficd
the pink sacque Vlll further.
Reserved to the last was a sumptuous tea.
gown or really a tea coat and skirt made
H of green messallne satin and cream lace.
coat wsieof allover lace put together at the
seams with entire deux of cluny, and this
coat was set over the green messallne, the
whole falling Just below the hips and al
most to the top of the flounce on the skirt.
A broad, soft sash of pale green satin rib
bon threaded In and out of the lact coat,
starting at the bust line, and passing be
nenth the arms to the back of the waist
where two long ends hung below a buckle
TT green enamel. The Jacket had loose,
straight sleeves In elbow length, with
turn-back lace cuffs In which were Inserted
link buttons of the green enamel.
Very practical, but not to be classed
among the dainty negligees, was a traveling
kimono of natural pongee silk with long
sleeves and a border and cuff trimming of
polka dotted blue foulard. This kimono
closed with blue frogs, and there was a
"Bleeping car apron" to match with a scr
ies of pockets In which all the belongings
of the toilet could be stowed away and
easily got at while standing In the crowded
dressing room of a Pullman. When not In
use the apron and its paraphernalia could
be rolled up compactly and tucked away
with the soft kimono.
Fall Neckwear Fresh and Stylish
The Dutch neck seems to hold Its own
despite what the dressmakers and the
fashion scribes say about Its unbecoming
ness to the average woman, The fact Is,
that every woman loves herself In aj
Dutch neck, and if she cannot convince
herself that In t she Is beautiful, she Is
certain that theV effect la at least artistic
and picturesque. The rounded-out bodice,
is moreover, so delightfully comfortable
that It Is not to be wondered at that
women cling to it affectionately; and these
Dutch necks promise to be In favor all
winter If the new neckwear Is taken as an
augury.
The new neckweur Is ho pretty that one
scarcely knows where to begin to describe
It. Frills there are galore, but theseare
mitde of softest materials like mulls and
Persian chiffons and lie so flatly on the
material of the bodice that they do not
destroy the graceful lines of throat and
shoulder. There are little square embroid
ered collars with pleated lace frills all
around; and there are little Irish lace
round collars, with pleated mull frills all
around. Sometimes there are two overlap
ping pleated frills set on the same lace
collar.
And, always, there is some sort of pretty
little bow set at the front of collar or
frill; and always there are dainty cuffs
to match the collar exactly. This collar
and cuff combination Is the smartest no
tion of fall costumes; and often very
simple little frocks Indeed are lifted to
distinction by a handsome set of lingerie
collar and cuffs. The cuffs may be worn
at the wrist, or below the cuff on the
shorter sleeve, and In the laundering they
areJust a thought sttffer than the very
soft collar. Hand-embroidered collars with
cluny lace edges are matched by these
smart turnback cuffs, and sometimes when
there is a little bow of black velvet at
the meeting of the collar, there are also
similar bows on the cuffs.
A set of mourning neckwear that is ex
ceedingly chic shows these little bows; the
collar and cuffs being made of white net
trimmed with a border of black silk ribbon
and then pleated, and the little bows
being of the black ribbon. Another very
smart mourning set has a Dutch collar
and turned back cuffs made of heavy white
net, the deep hems forming a double layer
of the net around the edge. This set
is not pleated but fits daintily over the
bluck frock; and there is a bow of pure
white crepe set at the front of the collar.
Persian chiffon pleatings are Immensely
rounded-out necks and elbow sleeves are
finished with these smart frills of Persian
patterned chiffon. Sometimes there is a
shallow, high-collared yoke of cream net
or lace when the lew bodice Is not liked.
In a Fifth avenue shop this week many
of these Persian neck frills are being
shown with novel necktie bows in butterfly
styl": the wings of the bow being made
of handkerchief linen and the colors set
on with a washable paint In the rlclv
shades combined In the Persian pattern of
the collar.
For the women who adhere to high col
lars, especially In the winter months, there
are new stocks of Irish and cluny Insertion
with graceful Jabots to match. Jaoots and
the sldo pleatings which the French call
pllsse. are to bo exceedingly fashionable all
winter, for no more becoming and satis
factory way of dressing up a simple blouse
has ever been found and women will be
slow to relinquish the distractingly pretty
frills and fluffy Jabots. Some of these
J atots fall directly down the front of the
waist, below a bow of satin or of velvet
ribbon; others are designed to fall to one
side, like the pleated frills which are set
along the side oienliig of the waists.
The touch of black Is dominant In all
fall neckwear, and even the high, stiff
linen collars which are worn In the morn
ings with linen shirtwaists are seen with
smart little neck bows of black velvet or
taffetas. One of the newest neckwear no
tions Is the black satin collar and cuff set
t ilmmed all around with pleated frills of
snow-white lace half an Inch or an Inch
wide. These black and white trimmings
will be much used on winter frocks; and
there are also smart, high stocks of black
satin with satin cuffs to match, both
trimmed with narrow edges of white
pleated lace.
The sailor collar Is much like on Indoor
gowns; though these broad collars are
rather easily crumpled under the coat.
Sometlmea the collar of fine hand-emhrold-ered
batiste edged with cluny lace4 Is
caught to the frock by means of big crochet
buttons, one set at each corner, and these
are removed when the collar vists the
laundress.
Mallne neck bows always add an airy
touch Of dressiness to the costume, and
these bows are altnost Invariably becoming.
Black mallne bows are considered chic tn
Paris, with large black hats, and with som
ber mourning costumes these black mallne
bows are particularly becoming and soften
ing In appearance.
Very quaint and old-tlmey are the fichu
effects of lace and muslin that are the
latest Importation from abroad. Some of
these fold up In regulation fichu fashion
to be knotted softly In front; others have
a broad sailor collar In black and the
ends gathered In flchu-wlse In front. All
f them are fascinating bits of detail and
likely to be warmly accepted because of
their practicability and becomingness. Of
course it goes without saying that they
must be worn with a very simple frock
and they are positively wonderful In dress
ing up an old frock or simplifying the
making of a new one. So far we can
expect to see them only In dresses designed
particularly for Indoor wear, but later they
will appear In some of the charming,
youthful dancing frocks of the winter.
MISS TRUE'S LUCKY POWWOW
Looked It Ranrh of Hostile Indiana
In the Ke and Won
Oat.
Time was when the Potrero Indians In
southern California were Just about the
toughest proposition that the bureau of
lrdlan affairs had to deal with. The agency
wa peopled by a band of lawless, riotous,
whisky drinking redskins, who got off the
reservation on the slightest excuse.
These days It Is pretty nearly the Ideal
agency. The Indians are so proud of their
prosperity and pearefulness that they In
vited Commissioner Leupp to come up to
visit them and let them show hlm what
they had accomplished.
Tills chage has been wrought by a woman
who weighs i less than 109 pounds, but
who can ride as well as any cowboy, w ho
can shoot w hen It Is necessary and who has
a fund of grit that simply made the Po
treros recognize that she was their master.
She Is Miss Clara D. True. According to
Hampton's Commissioner l.eupp discovered
her dow n In New Mexico w hen he was look
ing about for a particularly strong man to
take charge of the Potrero agency.
He found that the pupils In Miss True's
school and their parents were so peaceful
and were bo far advanced In farming and
Irrigation and fruit raising that he came
to the conclusion that she was "the par
ticularly strong man" he needed.
When Miss True first went to the Po
trero agency all the warriors were Indig
nant over the Idea that a woman should be
sent to rule them. They did not propose
to have any such thing, so they called a
council of war about a week after she got
there to devise ways and means of getting
rid of her.
The ways and means that they had In
mind, by the way, were not of the gentlest.
They were all talking and gesticulating at
once, when In walked Miss True. She was
not a particle afraid of them, or at least
If she was she concealed it, and she set
about to tell them that they might as well
make up their minds that she was going to
.... . . , .- iK,m 1 1
stay and that the nesi mini
do was to do Just as she said.
The conference lasted Into the night and
when It adjourned until next morning Mis
True very calmly wrapped herself In
blanket and lay down to sleep right In tha
midst of the braves, who were plotting her
undoing. That carried the day for her, be
cause of her sheer courage won whert
nothing else would have availed.
Miss True set about to bring order out
of the chaos which she found around hert
and first of all started to put out of busi
ness a ring of liquor sellers who by stand
ing In with the of'.iclals, had been selling
whisky to the Indians. They had reaped
enormous profits and had defied all th
other agenra on that reservation and they
were probably more responsible for tin
lawlessness there than any other cause.
It took Miss True twelve months to put
them out of business. the argued, leo
tured and faced attacks of various kinds.
She received many letters telling her sha
was going to be killed and at one time was
shot at from ambush as she was returning
from delivering a lecture
Another time sre found her pillow riddled
with shot ax a warning to her. Shortly
after a mob of drink craxed champions of
the whisky ring came to her home to at
tack her there. She took a revolver In
each hand and held them at bay.
Of course there could be only one result
to this campaign: she won out. The whisky
ring gave up Its efforts so far as the
Potrero agency was concerned." Indeed so
stimulating was her success that In various)
other agencies where similar conditions
exist those In charge are now carrying on
a slowly but surely winning fight against
the redman's worst enemy.
Then she achieved another victory' over a
gang of cattlemen and land thieves who
had been using the Indian lands as If they
were their own.
All this time she was teaching her Indian
charges how to till the soli so that they
would get more out of It and by 1W7 she
had transformed the Potrero agency into
one that Is now pointed out as a model of
what the government can do when It really
tries to help the Indians.
Ak-Sar-Ben
Visitors
Welcome
WSJ
fashlonable with the new frocks of lteht
ino skirt was of the messallne, with rows wool, or silk and wool fabrics. The bod
of lace set between fine tucks In a deep Ices of these frocks are built on the Ioobc
flounce, and lace motifs above. The tea seamless shoulder, peasant lines and the
ap-'-iiT.v non
Unusal Enticing Hair .Bargains
PURE HAIR SWITCHES.
iv.il naiui tu
yo $2.00
CLUSTER PUFFS.
A beautiful cluster of 30 puffs, made
from the finest of pure hair, you
cannot match this bargain anywhere
for leas than our regular selling
price of $8.00, this week J Aft
we offer It for only lUU
Cluster of 20 puffs, made from first
quality pure hair, our regu- rn
lar $5 value, Thursday only. QUJ)
Cluster of 15 puffs, of first quality
pure hair, an article which we regu
larly sell for $2.50 and guarantee
a good value at this price.
This week only . . . .'
wavy, pure hair, first quality
nair swucn, regular 13.6
vaiue, ror only
$1.00
22-inch pure hair, wavy switch,
regular $5.00 value. This week
only
20-inch natural wavy, pure hair
switch, our regular $7 value.
This week only
28-lnch switch of first quality
pure wavy hair, our remilaj
IS.00 value. Tills week only....
sv-mcn, regular $10 value, first
quality, pure hair wavy
switch. This week only
Switches In odds and ends, measuring 32
and 3"4 Inches. Fine-it a?1 L' a At r
quality of hair to be ldlOZD
For halrdresslng, electrical facial treatment, massage, shumpoo
lng, chiropody, 'phone for appointment. We carry every accessory to
stylish hair dress at reasonable prices. We make wigs and toupi'B.
IVEoniieif,
1411 Farnam
Phone Doug. 2333
XAZX. OlOEXS.
You may order any of these artlces
by mall and receive the best of atten
tion. Address Dept. li, and send
sample of hair with order. We taaue
a free Illustrated catalogue. Write
for It.
hvS
111?
mm
is
.50
$5.00
F 16.00
$8.00
I have been in this
one line of business
righVhere in Omaha
for the last 20 years.
My record of fair
dealing and honest
values during those
20 years, is irre
proachable; you can
rest assured that
merchandise you buy
here is absolutely de
pendable and will
measure up to every
thing I say for it. My
reputation of 20 years
stands behind each
sale.
Art of Present-Day Hair Dressing
The halrdresslng of today, while too ex
treme 1-4 some -forms Is, In its most artis
tic arrangement, the most generally be
coming style we have had In many a day.
Its very simplicity Is its chief charm. And
it is Just this simplicity which takes years
from the head, likewise from the face, of
the wearer. Its classic lines defining tha
well-shaped head give an appearance of
youth never possible with the pompadour
and the high coll on the crown of tiie
Fashions in hairdtessings do not change
with as much frequency as dress modes,
though It must be acknowledged the
cimnges are more radical. Women are
loath to give up a style to which they have
grown accustomed for something radically
new. Kven though the close dressing,
minus "rats" and "rolls." hua been worn
by many American women for almost a
year the first one of these coiffure.
landed In America last June on the person
of a returning American girl one still sees
an occasional pompadoured head and, how
uunormui u aoes look! Only the wearer Is
unconscious of Its grotesqueness.
siiiicw 101s new uresmig came into vogue
bringing with it ad enormous business to
the hair-goods people, many varieties have
pein seen some not altogether becoming
It la true, for there Is always a class who
go to extremes and do the utmost toward
killing a fashion.
Despite this fact, however, the "swirl'
dressing continues to flourish and to grow
to 11 notea. i"or we are beginning to add
puffs at the back, taking care, however, to
preserve the simpler contour. A late varla
lion or the peasant dressing, and one by
the way which should be attempted only
uy tne young, and pretty maid, la that
which parts In the center, waving softly
to the ears where the back hair, If It be
long enough, or "one's separate" hair. Is
arranged In soft colls. This dressing .
particularly becoming to a round girlish
face and never should It frame an oval
face. For tvenlng wear, a string of tiny
roses Is banded across the part and brought
down to lose Itself tn the ear colls.
To return to the puffs. The hair shops
report that they tie II three times as many
puffs as twitches, and theyare continu
ally over aold. One very good reason for
this Is that puffs are far less expensive
than a switch. In certain staple shades,
one can buy a very good looking cluster of
puffs for as low a price as $3, a long
Kwltch of the same quality costs $10. llalr-dresjK-rs
are more than pleased with this
vogue of puffs, because of the limited
supply of long hulr in the market.
Tin- puffless, switch-bound head Is a lit.
tie too severe for the great majority of
American women, but puffs and band, to
gether are admirable, Accordingly many
American women cover the crown of the
head with puffs and swath the rest of the
head, ullowing the front hair to puff out
Softly and make a pretty frame for1 the
face. The tag lock, at the ears are curled
and allowed to cluster around the ear. Sep
arate curls of this kind are on aale In the
hair emporiums under the name of "pin
curls." A scunt whlsp of curly hair about
llvo Inches long when pulled out of curl 1.
fastened to the points of a long Invisible
wire hair-pin, the head of which Is ea.lly
and comfortably thrust through the coif
fure. These same pin-curls are used for
the fashionable bang when one does not
possess such a feature naturally.
The mode of arranging the swathed and
puffed head ia very simple. If one's own
hair be lung enough it la first combed back
softly from the face, straight or parted.
It Is then divided tn half at the base of tha
head, and crossed. The next step la to
pin on the puff cluster at exactly tho
proier angle. The crown arrangement Is
most becoming to many, but there are cer
tain types that look best with the puffs ad
justed closer to the neck. After these
have been pinned firmly in place the long
ends crossed at the back are brought for
ward and bound securely ever the front
hair.
Sometimes when the hair is sufficiently
lont, one side is tied In two soft knots
over the ear. This treatment is very new
and attractva.
Large shell pins that formerly r.r.Ke..
themselves In clusters of two on eaeh side
of the head, the lops pointing upward, aro
now set on but one side, tho heads set In
opposite directions. The circlet of shell
which pins flat against the head Is a newer
ornament which is very good. These like
the long pins are in plain and Jewel set
shell.
Where the hair la amply long and thick,
an attractive arrangement may be easily
accomplished without the aid of switch or
puffs, if the chevelure be not naturally
wavy and fluffy the front hair should be
waved from the forehead to the nape of the
neck pushing It up from the neck a trifle
and pinning It securely so that the hulr
covering the crown of the head will not
draw too tight. The ends cun then be ar
ranged In the same manner as with the
puffs. If the hair Is long but not thick
one of the hair-covered wire caps can be
brought Into use with satisfactory results.
Curls while not as popular as puffs are
worn by the younger element of society.
Clusters of three or four corkscrew curls
are charmingly tucked In at the side of
the puffs, esM daily when the coiffure Is
dressed low. Hair which curls naturally
Is extremely attractive when drawn into a
knot of faslnatlng smal curls that danca
and bob with every move as though In an
effort to break the silken or velvet bonds
that hold them securely In place.
Hair ornaments are many und various.
For day wear nothing moie decorative than
shell ornaments, or a velvet band Is per
missable, but for evening one may choose
from a charming array of metal effects as
well as ribbon and flower novelties. Black
velvet bands over which trail wreaths of
tiny pink roses are effective on blonde
hair, while the metallic and Iridescent
bead effects are better suited to the dark
lustrous' chevellne of the brunette.
Tha care of he hair Is vastly im
portant these days. It should be kept light
and fluffy and absolutely free from the
slightest suggestion of oil or dandruff. If
It Is Inclined to this state a teaspoonful of
borax and frequent washing will do much
toward softening and drying out the oil.
On the other hand, If the hair Is too dry.
a Judicious application of btilllantine put
on by rubbing It into the palms of the hands
and then smoothing down the hair, will do
much to keep It In place and give a pretty
natural luster.
letter Than Bes.tr.
A distinguished bearing Is the greatest
asset a woman can have. It counts more
than beauty, says the New Orleans Pica
yune. It counts more than fine clothes, for
fine clothes worn by a woman with a
stooping, uncertain carriage lose all their
effect. There was a time when a woman
was taught to carry herself well. She was
taught to walk Just as she was taught the
other feminine arts and graces; It was part
of her education. She practiced before a
long mirror, with a book on her head, to
acquire the proper poise. Up and down, up
and down, until by force of habit she had
attained a graceful bearing. The French
woman Is taught to show tho top of her
collar; In other words to hold her head
high. One clever woman In New York
makes a specialty of teaching women to
see themselves as others see them. She is
a paid critic who tells a pupil all her
faults with the frankness of a member of
the family, fur which she charges a good
round fee. When she has finished the
pupil walks well and has a fine carriage.
The Art f Present Day
Hai
Pay a visit
toKatherine
Giblins
superb
Manicuring
and
Hair
Dressing
Parlors
N
OT an ordinary establishment by any
means, but one wherein is installed
and employed the most modern
electrically operated devices possible. Lux
uriously appointed suites where the ser
vice rendered is noticeably different from
the usual kind. The service is exceptional,
but the prices arc the ordinary ones.
Your patronage solicited by
reason of merit,
Katherine Giblin
Suite 827-30 City National Bank Bldg.
Telephone HourI lOtll.
An exceptional? fine line of hair goods,
twitches, toupees, puffs, etc., minufactured to
order and to please.
Our Aim
Highest Quality at
the Lowest Price
We carry everything in
hair goods from a 25c
pin curl to a $50 switch.
In our Hair Dressing
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