Fail and Winter Tailor Styles
Another season is upon ns, and worn
ankind the world over is asking: herself
the old, old question, "What are to be
the styles this Full?" And particularly,
"What is to tie the style in the tailored
emit?" "Is it a three or a two-piece cos
tume? What kindiof a skirt will we
have? Is the coat to be long or short,
belted or loose fitting, and most impor
tant of all is it to be real tailormade,
or a coat and skirt too far removed in
point of cut and trimming from the
simple man-tailored coat suit to be
claused as a tailormade?"
These and like queries are agitating
feminine minds at tlve moment. And
well may they. For the tailormade is
the "piece de resistance" of every wom
an's wardrobe and the garment that de
serves her first and best attention.
Long before any of us had thought
of the Fall, and even before many of
our Summer wardrobes had reached
the stage of completion, designers had
come to a definite understanding on the
ubiect of Fall. lOio. suits with this
result. The tailormade this season is
to b a tailormade, that is the strictly
man tailored ooat suit smartly and sim-
olv cut and beautifully made.
We are to be emancipated from the
fancv coat suit which invaded the fash
ion world last Spring and allowed to
return to the simple effects. So strongly
has the tailormade costume established
itself in the regard of the American
woman, and the American man as well,
be it noted, that it is now considcreJ as
a national street costume in this COUn
try. Even Paris lias taken up the plain
tailormade for street wear, and of
course London can always be counted
on for approval of an idea which our
English cousins really originated.
A simple, smart tailor coat suit, cor
rect millinery and accessories, and mi-
ladv fares forth with the utmost conn
dence that she is fittingly garbed for
any occasion of the morning or after
noon. The general suit outlines of the Fall
and Winter are these: Slender silhou
ette, hiplesj etfect; coat slightly fitted;
coat length 32 to 34 inches, with occa
sionally a .16 the suitable length de
pending on the hight and general build
of the woman ; skirts short, clearing the
ground 3 to 4 inches, this again de
pending on the figure and aee of the
wearer: skirts narrow, either quite
stralRht with a broad box pleat in back
or front or both, or in some of the
many new banded-in etiects described
below: material, fancy mixtures and
nlain dark colors in serge and cheviot
weaves, very tittle trimming and that
of the simplest nature.
The Question of Coats.
The main and most striking feature
of the new season's coats is their sinv
nlicitv surtDlicitv of outline or siihou
ette which is the later and more ap
propriate fashion term. There is sun
olicitr in the trimming scheme alst,
indeed any trimming be used. Where
trimmings appear they take the form c
buttons cleverly and judiciously used,
alone and in company with small braids
preferably soutache. Wide plain braids
are simple and smart. Tiny metal
r fahrvc covered buttons, scarcely
1 larger than the proverbial pea, in groups
of half or a full doren, ane set on the
back edge of the double slits at the back
of the coat. If of fabric these often
times match the colored lining, as in the
case of a blue serge lined with dove
gray bin, the buttons being of the lin
ing material, a rattier neavy graae 01
surah. Again these buttons are grouped
on the collar, in this instance of shawl
shape and rolling to the bust line. Some
models roll to the waist line, though
the opening at the neck extends only
to the bust. When this is the case two
or three large buttons accomplish the
fastening, llip-length coats is the dic
tum this season, and since we have so
successfully taken off our hips and in
cidentally years of our age, with proper
corseting, there is no reason to expect
anything but universal approval of this
length garment the youthfulness of
which is its chief attribute.
While the majority of coats are cut
on semi-litting lines, there is no sug
gestion of looseness in the new models.
On the contrary, every good line of the
figure is brought out by perfect fitting
without exactly defining it. Some mod
els have a peculiar bias cut under the
arms which tends to narrow the figure
perceptibly at the hip line. This and
other tricks of cut will make many new
friends for the tailormade suit this sea
son.
Sleeves are still of the regular coat
model, with a turnback or applied cuff,
with and without groups of buttons or
namenting the back seam.
Skirts Show a Change.
Skirts are a matter of individual
choice, so long as they complete the
straight, narrow silhouette of the figure
prescribed by Xanie fashion. One may
take the handed skirt as .Paris calls it
the cuff skirt one designer designates it
which is the high style note in skirts
for Fall, the new narrow gored or the
pleated model. These last two because
of their conservative shaping will doubt
less prove the more universal.
A word anent the banded skirt; li
to 2 yards is the accepted width of the
hrench model. Put the average Amen
can woman in a skirt of this width and
she looks ridiculous. We cannot take
this French skirt without adapting it. It
must be widened proportionately to our
figures. Mademoiselle is petite. Her
figure is round and compact, her hips
A Separate Coat Season Ahead of Us
The vogue of the dress "the little
dress," as the smart dressmaker rather
endearingly terms it, is directly re
sponsible for the popularity of the
separate coat.
Last winter in Paris every woman
wore one of these "little dresses" and
a handsome coat of velvet or seal, im
itation seal or muskrat, if we term
it correctly, trimmed with skunk
bands and heavy cord ornaments and
buttons. This with the dress of vel
vet constituted the highstyle Paris
ienne costume of 1909. High style in
Paris one season means high style in
America the next. Accordingly we
may expect to see much of this class
of costuming this winter. Manufac
turers of separate coats have gone
for 1910-1911
small. She has youth in every line and
curve, therefore the two-yard skirt. But
the typical American woman must adapt
this new style. The American is larger
of frame, athletic, the product of our
sane and healthful out-of-door hie.
With her greater height and hip meas
ures she must increase the skirt width
proportionately.
Very clever types of the banded-in
skirt are brought out by American de
signers; pleated models have wide bands
halfway between knee and hem; foot
bands slightly circular, the spring of the
circular band being more becoming to
the American figure than is the straight
narrow band. There is also a straight
band with inverted pleats at side and
back, which is very good.
Skirts are of course short, anywhere
from two to three inches from the
ground. Here again we have an Ameri
can fashion adopted by our friend, the
l'arisienne. The French woman was
wedded to trailing skirts, but the last
few seasons she has taken up our Amer
ican fashion of short skirts, and even
wears them more emphatically short
than we do ourselves. Furthermore, she
wears the short skirt for dressy cos
tumes, as well as for the street, but that
is another story.
Fabrics and Their Colors.
Dark blue serge in narrow and wide
wale, basket weaves and cheviots come
first in the list of materials. Black will
have its following, but blue, particularly
a dark, rich black-blue will be the popu
lar favorite, with browns and dark
greens as second choice. Linings will
he plain or striped or Persian, printed
foulards be relegated to the past Sum
mer.
Novel bone and wood buttons will di
vide favor with some new and unique
buttons of composition in various colors,
odd in shape, and sometimes set in metal
rims. A smart touch of red or emerald
green on blue suits will find a repeat in
the buttons and the lining.
Marish mixtures, browns, grays and
ereenisn grays are classed as the sea
son's novelties. These homespuns and
Scotch worsteds straicht from the hand
looms of the "Land of lads and lassies,"
are however finding their greatest use
in smart top coat, the story of which
you will find elsewhere on these pages
in heavily on pile fabrics, velvets and
plushes making them up into attract
ive garments sufficiently moderate in
Crice to please the vast majority of
uyers. The most appealing virtue
of such garments is their adaptability
for both day and evening wear. This
fact alone will give them great popu
larity.
Coats.
Many mediocre imitations of seal
will be forced upon us with clever ar
guments on their quality and durabil
ity. Beware, fair readert Nothing
so cheap and taudry as a cheap imi
tation. Unless one can afford the ex
penditure of a fair sum of money the
velvet garment is far the wiser choice,
and infinitely more satisfactory from
the point of looks as well as wearing
qualities.
Coats for Real Service.
We Americans are practical people
and we like practical clothes. In this
day and age woman is an important
factor in the business affairs of our
country, and it behooves the designers
of women s clothes to consider her to
no small degree. Then there are her
more fortunate sisters who though in
clined to the frivolties of life demand
practical clothes for traveling, auto
mobiling and like occasions.
I he topcoat familiarly known as
the ulster in days gone by is a de
cidedly chic affair this season. If is
designed for good, practical service,
of course, but its practicability has in
no wise interfered with its smartnesss.
It is beautifully and sometimes smart
ly cut, and its perfection of tailoring
is the hall mark of good style.
Scotch Mixtures the Favored Ma
terials.
The ultra smart top coat which will
do duty as a. street garment over
DEAR MADAM:
The fit and quality of your clothes are of vital importance to you and to every
other well dressed woman. You surely want your clothes to be of good quality and
perfect fitting. Our garments are noted for their superior fitting and qualities and
for the extraordinary merits of our workmanship and materials.
All our suits, skirts, coats and dresses are made here in our own factory ou the
second floor of our new building, by expert tailors under our personal. supervision.
' Kvery garment represents full value, and our prices are lower than you would have
to pay anywhere else for similar garments, because we manufacture them ourselves
and sell direct to you, thus saving you the middleman's profit. A full and complete
stock made up in the latest approved styles and materials always on hand.
Made to your measure garments are our specialty. "We make to your measure
suits, skirts, coats and dresses, at prices that are less than you would have to pay
elsewhere for inferior ready made garments, and you are sure of getting perfect
fitting garments made up according to your own ideas as to style and materials.- A
complete stock of the finest dress goods always on hand to select from. We also
make garments to your measure from your own materials. Stylish looking, perfect
fitting, snappy garments are what you want, and you will find them here.
As a special inducement to you, in order to have you give us a visit so that you
may convince yourself that the above statements are correct, we will allow you a
epecial discount of ten per cent on any suit, coat, skirt or dress that you may pur
chase from us between now and the first of November, if you will bring this adver
tisement along with you and present it to us. This discount we will allow you from
our regular selling prices. This offer also refers to any made-to-measure garment
that 3-ou may order from us during that time.
Don't delay, but take advantage of this offer now and save money on your fall
clothes, and have perfect fitting, snappy, stylish looking garments.
The Novelty Skirt Co.
214-216 North Sixteenth Street
simple little dresses of serge and fine
worsteds in stripes and checks, as an
auto or traveling wrap, is built of
a natty mixture a Scotch mixture in
brown and white with trimmings of
velvet. Designers have taxed their
ingenuity in the matter of trimmings.
Very frequently the coat material cut
on another way of the goods forms
the trimming scheme. Such trimming
is applied plain or outlined with a pip
ing of velvet. The one detail manu
facturers seem to universally agree
upon is the collar. No matter what
its formation, its width or its length,
it is so moulded that stormy weather
will see it buttoned snugly about the
wearer's throat
Though the brown mixtures rank
as first favorites one may choose from
black and white and green and white
the same models made in the brown
toning. Large buttons are a feature
of all these garments. So also are
the pockets. Some are set in with
flaps of contrasting material or color,
others are of the "patch" variety,
quite long and set somewhat nearer
the back this year in an effort to aid
in narrowing the hip line.
The Coat Silhouette.
Right here let it be remarked that
the new coats, like the new dresses,
do not flare. They describe the straight
silhouette, which is fashion's dictum
this fall. One of these models is
styled the polo coat. It is plain to
the point of severity, of soft, warm
fabrics, with deep "patch" pockets and
big pearl buttons for trimming. Then
there is the rug coat. Have you seen
it? To see it is to want it. It's such a
novelty, but withal so emart, and
make one's figure look so youthful
that its success cannot be doubted. Its
material is a two faced, plain and plaid
steamer rug, the plaid on the inside of
the garment proper and on the outside
in the collar, cuffs and pockets. It
hangs perfectly straight and close to
the figure with the fringe at the bot
tom, and fastens with low rolling revers
below the bust line with four large wood
buttons. Blue rugs with red, white and
blue plaid back ; gray with gray and
IT
white, and brown with brown and white
plaid are the three choice combinations,
though it must be confessed, the blue is
by far the most attractive.
This Season's Black Garment.
Some very good black coats in moire,
heavy soft satin and bengaline weaves
are seen, these for early wear, and black
broadcloths and rough weaves for later
on. Black is the fashion this year, hance
these black coats are doubly important.
Black is always practical, since it may
be worn to advantage with a dress of
any color, and can, if a suitable mo.lel
be chosen, be made to icrve as a semi
dressy as well as a street coat.
One unusually h-ndsonie wrap of this
character shows the three-quarter
sleeves cut in one with th; coat body.
The coat is somewhat shorter in the
front, curving up from the skirt hem in
the back to the knee where the last
button of four between this point and
the bust line, fastens the g rment. It
is lined throughout with old blue satin,
and the wide roll collar and high cuffs
are of the same.
Sit M l
ul