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NEVER was Paris so enthus-1
iastic over furs, and fur
trimmings, and Amrrican
furriers are already dis
playing the new coats and "small
furs," as muffs and neckpieces are
called, in all the familiar pelts as well
as in some new skins which are just
making their bow to Dame Fashion.
Women are discovering the value
of these wonderful enhancers of cos
tume and of beauty, and fur coats and
fur sets figure largely in the plans for
the fashionable Winter wardrobe.
Experience has taught womenkind to
buy good furs the sort that will
keep their luster and beauty through
more than one season; for there is
nothing so hopelessly shabby as a
shabby set of furs. Worn shoes are
not a circumstance to worn furs; and
better far an inexpensive fur muff
and neckpiece, smart in shape and
fresh in quality, than a once hand
some fur set matted with time and
showing unpleasant mangy looking
bare spots along the edges.
Clever women, who have discov
ered their own particular fur the fur
that brings out the colors of eyes,
hair artd skin to perfection, and that
flatters both complexion and figure
lines as only the right fur can stick
to this fur season after season; buy
ing a new garment when necessary
and utilizing the half-worn fur in
trimmings. These fur trimmings
promise to be extravagently fashion
able this Winter. They give an air
ri luxury to the simplest costume and
when applied on velvet, iney are es
pecially beautiful and appropriate.
fortunately, the skirts are now so
narrow that very little of the fur will
go a long way, and a discarded muff
and boa will nearly trim a whole cos
tume.
Great care should be exercised in
buying furs. By clever processes of
dyeing, commonplace and inferior
sUins are made to resmble fine pelts;
but the life of such furs is brief and
if the skin, often made up of little
scraps saved from the edges of large
fur garments, does not soon pull
apart, the hairs wear off and the color
becomes dead and lusterless. Only
first class furriers, on whose word
one can rely, should be patronized;
for in furs more than anything else,
the ordinary purchaser must blindly
trust to the dealer. At any rate, an
investment which represents as sub
stantial a sum as a handsome set of
furs or a fur coat should not be made
without some thought and delibera
tion. and one scarcely expects to
"pick up" in a morning's shopping
trip, the furs which are intended to
do duty tor two winters at least.
As a general rule a good set of furs
should last through two seasons very
satisfactorily and perhaps well into
third, if sent during the Summer
months to be relined and repaired in
the worn places, and perhaps to have
the shape altered a trifle.
This matter of shape is another
thing that has great significance in
furs almost as much significance as
the Quality of the pelt. This year's
shapes differ very little from last
year s; except that the neckpieces are
even larger and the muffs rounder
and more barrel-like. A hundred
years ago the bigger the muff, the
more modish the lady, and it seems
we are getting back to this idea
Nowadays, also, the bigger the muff,
the more wealthy the lady, for the
huge round affairs do take a deal of
fur, and very often two handsome
pelts are combined; like seal with sa
ble or skunk, or broadtail with mink
or chinchilla. The new "rand
mother" muff is anywhere from three
quarters ot a yard to a yard lontr and
the lining conceals a number of han
dy litle pockets in which may be
stowed away miladi'i purse, vanity
outfit, eardcase and half a dozen
other trifles.
Not all women will earrv the hnire
gradnmother muffs, however, for
many women Insist upon clinging to
the semi flat, round muff which is so
easily carried, end which may be
tucked tinder the arm when one wants
to make change in one of the trying
pay-as-you-enter cars: or be crushed
between one and the back of the seat
at a theater. The grandmother muff
might, indeed serve as a footstool;
but one cannot imagine disposing of
it in any other way in one of the
crowded theater stalls.
Whether barrel-shaped or semi-flat,
the new muffs are deligtfully light in
weight and the lighter weights, the
heavier the price; for the best models
are made of the finest, softest skins
on a foundation of chiffon or light
satin, and the padding is of fine eider
down. Even the satin linings are
thinner and lighter than used to be
the case.
Fox will be as popular as ever. No
other fur is more becoming to the
complexion than this feathery pelt
which has a charming way ot natter
ing the skin and making it look milky
white. Much of the black fox offered
n the shops is simply our plebian
cousin the red fox of the fields, clev
erly transformed by an expert dying
process. Raccoon is also dyed to im
itate foxfur. Manv of these imita
tions are very satisfactory indeed, and
when a smart looking set is desired
at an inexpensive figure, dyed fox is
a good choice to make.
White fox is very beautiful and
very scarce; and a handsome white
fox set is sure to be costly. Ihese
snow-white pelts are lovely on young
girls whose flawless skins can stand
the severe test of the white fur
against the face; but elder women
wear the white fox only in the even
ing, when it is extremely fashionable
on evening wraps. A white coney
evening coat, trimmed with white fox,
and accompanied by a huge white fox
muff is a sight to remember for many
a day even if one may not, one's self
ever hope to possess such a luxury.
Ermine also is reserved exclusively
for evening or for afternoon car
riage wear by women of best taste
and is never worn with dark street
costumes. A fastidious woman
would as soon appear on a beach of
a midsummer morning decked in all
her diamonds, as to shop of a morn
ing in 'town in her ermines.
The poioted foxes are supremelv
lovely for those who can afford
them; but as verybody knows most
of the "pointed fox" furs shown in
the shops are really pointed by hand,
a genuine 6et of pointed fox being
worth from two to four thousand dol
lars. This fur pointing is an art in
itself. The white hairs must not onlv
be carefully inserted in the skin but
must give the character and show the
design of the natural pelt. Only the
softest and whitest badger hairs are
used and these are inserted one by
one in the skin and glued fast. To
point a Sitka fox pelt requirts two
days labor by an expert.
In the brown furs, skunk is by far
the leader. This erstwhile humble
and not beloved pelt has risen by
leaps and bounds to the pinnacle of
favor, and alasl the price also has
risen by leaps and bounds, until an
imitation seal coat trimmed with
skunk boasts a price not to be sneered
at. Hudson seal is another of the
brown pelts which is extremely fash
ionable; and this imitation of genu
ine seal is often almost as soft, vel
vety and beautiful as the real skin.
Hudson seal is really only another
name for French rat, and this imita
tion sealskin is used for some of the
richest of the new fur coats and
wraps.
Another brown fur is fisher, which
sprang into sudden favor last season
because of the whim of a Russian
lady of rank. Fisher is a most beau
tiful fur, soft and velvety and with
mottled shadings over a deep, dark
brown at the heart of the fur. Mink
is always good provided it is of fine
ouality; but this fur is perishable. It
fades quickly and for this reason is
not an economical fur for the averaee
woman. Some of the. matched mink
coats are rarely beautiful, and there
are tremendous barrel muffs to match
them; but the price is almost prrthibi
tive to any but the wife of a pluto
crat. Cheap mink should be avoided
like the plague; for of all the furs,
this one is most impossible in its Imi
tations. Fur neckpieces grow larger and
larger. Some of them are almost pel
erines and hang down the back as far
as the waist. On the other hand
there are pert little raoat ties which
cross over the coat collar in jaunty
style; and with these the muffs are
quite as big and luxurious as those
carried with the huge, luxurious neck
pieces. A great deal depends on the
way those "small" furs are worn.
Some women will go through a whole
winter carrying the muff in a demure
or precise fashion at the end of the
arms, while other women will find a
hundred ways of expressing coquetry
with this implement, which is placed
beneath the chm, beside the cheek;
looked over, stroked in meditation
beneath downcast lids; or shaken in
saucy pettishness. A muff has quite
as many ways of saying things as a
parasolor a fan if one- but knows
how.
The neckpiece last Winter was of
ten slipped around to the side so that
the fastening came on the shoulder
instead of directly in front, and this
fad seems likely to be followed this
year also. I he French manner of
crossing the fur stole in front and al
lowing the ends to hang over the
shoulders toward the back will also
prevail in this country. Beware of a
ugnilied neckpiece hanging straight
down in front with tabs falling below
the waist. This effect is sure to be
mature and matronly.
Long coats of seal and broadtail
are showtj, with luxurious borders of
fox or skunk. Ihese are for carriage
or limousine wear. The favorite fur
coat for street wear is a jaunty hip
length jacket which fits the figure
rather closely and crosses over in
front to fasten at the left side in the
Russian fashion. These coats are
most youthful and graceful, and have
a girlish air that will be sure to make
them popular. One sees them in seal
and imitation seal, with skunk trim
mings, in pony, in caracul, in Persian
lamb and in broadtail. They are also
shown in matched mink and even in
matched chinchilla. With them will
be worn jaunty velvet turbans with
fur brims, or Persian-silk draped tur
bans with a fur edge.
Persian silk linings veiled with chif
fon make some ot the shawl wraps
for evening and carriage wear very
luxurious. Many of these dainty,
shaped fur wraps are shown by the
smart furriers, who call them theater,
or bridge wraps. Delmans, pelerines,
victorines and all sorts of quaint, old
timey shapes are built of the furs,
with borders of longer haired pelts;
and dainty pleatings of velvet ribbon
are set along the edge between fur
and lininar.
A new pelt which is immensely
fashionable in wraps of this charac
ter, is the Australian opossum. This
fur is very like the chinchilla in gen
eral effect, though not as blue gray
in color, having a browner tinge. It
is also much more serviceable than
the perishable chinchilla; and less
expensive too; genuine chinchilla be
ing now very rare and costly.
One of the new Dolman wraps of
this Australian opossum is built in
the peasant shoulder effect, with t
long, graceful line from throat to up-
per arm, and below this a "ruffle" of
the fur really a shaped flounce with
the marking set the other way falls
to the waist at the back, while in
front the garment extends to the
knees. Matched by a huge grand
mother muff of the same fur, this
opossum set is not only quaint and
chaming, but extremely handsome.
This fur is used also in dressy
scarfs and muffs for evening use;
strips of the soft, fluffy fur being at
tached to thin, soft silk or chiffon,
and the big muff being formed in the
ame way. Such a scarf and muff are
feather-lieht and as soft as thistle
down. Broad collars of the opossum
are alo put on rich seal coats, and
the effect is very good, though many
women prefer the darker collar of
skunk fur.
4
DIRECT FROmI
MAKER TO WEARER
We buy the raw furs, tan and dress them
and make them into the garment. This is
the reason that we do such an enormous busi
ness. Satisfaction guaranteed in fit and ma
terial. Prices always the lowest.
4
t
Special Prices on Ladies1 Coats
French Coney Coats, up from $20.00
Marmout Coats, up from $40.00
Near Seal Coats, up from $35.00
Krimmer Coats, up from $50.00
Genuine Otter Coats, up from $150.00
Genuine Beaver Coats, up from $75.00
Genuine Seal Skin Coats, up from $250.00 -
SPECIAL
Russian Poney Coats, 52 inches long. This is the most pop
ular garment of the season. We make special prices of
this line, up from $45.00
Special Prices This Week on Neck
wear and Muffs
Beautiful French Coney Set, pillow muff nnd neck piece,
up from $5.00
Russian Lynx Sets, up from. . . $7.50
Japanese Lynx Sets, up from $20.00
American Lynx Sets, up from $90.00
Black Fox Sets, up from $50.00
Japanese Mink Sets, up from $15.00
American Mink Sets, up from $75.00
Canadian Marten Sets, up from $8.50
Black Marten Sets, up from $45.00
Blue Wolf Sets, up from $20.00
Black Wolf Sets, up from $20.00
Australian Chinchilla Sets, up from $75.00
Hudson Bay Sable Sets, up from $100.00
Russian Sable Sets, up from $150.00
Visitors in the city will be welcome to make this store their
headquarters, and have their packages checked.
Repairing and remodeling done at moderate prices.
Coats and neckwear of special design made to order!
Go EC
SHU
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1
EEMT !
....Practical Furrier....
Established 1886. 401-3 South IStti Street
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