A MINTS FOR
By Mary Eleanor O'DonneU
Jfovcl ffe attire h the OrxentaJ 3a.sh
iHKftE aro certain style of frocks whicn
P K I are always called -little. The size may
R I be the largest made, but It la a little
Jt ' I frock Just the same. it always ni a
chle simplicity, a demure unpretentious
nefts and Is not designed for formal oc
casions. Such are the little silk frocks
shown on the page today.
This fail these little frocks will be more In evi
dence than ever. In fact It Is predicted that the little
frocks, worn with Ions; coats, when the weather neces
sitates It. will be vastly smarter than the tailored
suit and blouse
Women' have come to realise the compactness and
comfort of the one-piece frock as compared with the
blouse and skirt and they are not willing to re
linquish It readly. When the one-piece frock U made
with the net gulmpe und undersleeves It has all the
' advantage possessed by the washable Mourn s.
The first thing; to consider In 'these little frocks
Is the skirt. Not since the time of 'crinoline h-
there been as much commotion mudc.ovrr the ques
tion of woman's dress as during the last few weeks.
Abroad we'll . known portrait painter have filled
columns giving their opinions on the shackled or the
hobble skirt as it Is cnmmonlr called her
But bobble skirts still continue popular, regardless
of the artists' laments, and their general adoption far
fall Is assured. In all the Imported models these
skirts are shown, though In a modified form. The
skirt when It first made Its appearance was a little
under a yard wide. It does not take much Imagination
to see 'that tho average American woman would not
long enthuse over a garment that wasn't wide enough
to allow her to take ao ordlnury step. So while the
fall styles see the reappearance of tho scant skirt It Is
built along more comfortable lines.
A popular model with it.- porters Is a skirt severely
tight fitting to bet. v the knees, where It Is finished
off with a bund, au-i plaited flounce started from
underneath this. t'I'i.sl.r plaited skirt caught In
with bands are also shown. In fact the new narrow
skirts cail for tho ingenuity of the designer, with
the result that there hus never been such a' variety
of styles In SKirt to sel.vt from h i this season.
Tho sleeves for the little frocks are short and
Usually finished In the simplest manner possible. They
are normally wide and not skin tlUL
The peasant blouse style Is smartest. These blouses
are bsually entirely anuam. The pattern (or tii -m
are extremely simple. They only require thai the
material bo folded over to tho required depth, a circle
cut for the neck unj straight under arm status cut
In one wth straight undvrsleove scam. , There -s
ally Utile sewing to do. The utulcruriii urama are
blUched up, as are the seams under the sleeves 4nd
the trimming niuy be as .iiuple or- as elaborate as
on eliooMu.
Th narrow skirt, the peasant bliue ur.d the
waist two Inches higher than inw-nial may he ao
to be the thrke distinct style feature that will donn.
i the fall fashion
.ugurdi.g transparencies which h ive been no pou.
lai lr,r ' IV Where i-onlliit-lice hi tilclr continued
vou '- !i'lT'ii cover continues popular In fan
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I'nder the nine Ileal arc Include I oilier tiaa.spai
encli F, f i.!-l . vi! marquis ate. nj net. T e n.iper
poslnj of different layers of cliiro-i or voiles Is be-i-onilng
iiuiio and more u feature Thcru la almost no
lyle .f walt-t r fniclt that has not Its' veil or cover
of transparent fahri..-
The touch of orlcntjllsin which enters Into many of
tho fashions of the moment Ik almnM wholly intm
diii'd throuifh the medium of fabrics prtnlel or woven
OMAHA SUNDAY BEE; ATT.UST
THE HOME.
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In re::il:i, i at h nc: e. or l'altley pitteiv.s and culor
' r ' Ha:idsjme r.uvellie In tliee materials are every
where featured.
This season Fashion Is moro particularly trying
In her exactions limn for n number uf yearj. The
rule of the short-walsted xown designed- for the
limited a i Ntoirmy that could wear It. Is nxain loom-Iru-
on the horlcon with the narrow, short skirt, th
collarUf Llouse. and the Immense hat. Tlut there
14. 1910.
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One Rtce Hodelxrx Spotted Sltc
Is otie help. " Let guwna lie fitted lo the figure,"
"ores t lie word from 1'arls. "but fitted softly." And
that Is Rood advice for all. Kharp outlines are a
mistake for stout and slender. A certain Indeflnlte
nesa of contour assists a large figure, for the reason
that it makes It impossible to Kage Its actual sise,
lot nothing reni'-u bulk so calculable as to see It
uncomfortably compressed Into tight stays or close
sleeves. Indeflnlteness serves slight proportions, also,
and obscures angles and deficiencies with wonderful
kindness.
Few of us are satisfied with our type, and so, It
would seem, we try to make up to ourselves for our
appearance by assuming the manners of the style
we admire. Oo Ideal Is, of course, our opposite, and
the result of our Imitation Is often grotesque Indeed.
And not on'y do we act the part of another, but w
dress for the part as well. Our willowy friend is so
plcturtsque in her narrow skirt, peasant blouse, and
frills; surely If we wore the same our short, dumpy
fmure wouiil almost resemble hers Hul while we
n:ny hypnotize ourselves. Ihe general public keep
a level head and reads our secret longing to be ill
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In every wrong line ot Our dress. No, there Is no
help for It; nature has cast u In a certain mold, and
those are wlseBt who learn to make the best bt lt
Bantlng systems may aid some and diet kitchens In
crease the weight of others, but both theso are out
side my province. Still, any case Is far from hope
less, and the inbst discouraged may raise her head
If only she Is willing to act like herself and dress
according to her needs.
The ground principle of dress Is "line." Color
counts for much, material Is Important, but line is
.essential. Given an Instinct or a trained sense ' for
beauty of llnc and a dressmaker can evoke Rrace
In almost any figure; let her lack this sense and she
will distort perfection. Mistakes In dress will con
tinue just as long as we are willing to be puppets
In the hands of our modistes.
Let us start with the large figure and see what'
suggestions, In short space, can he offered her. In
the first place she should flee for her life from the hob
ble short skirt. Every Important line of her costume
should suggest length. T,he style of her gown should
be chosen with a view to long lines that can be
emphasized by trimming. This trimming Is made
' more effective In its purpose If It end at or near
the hem of the skirt In some pronounced fashion, as
In a braided design or in some way suitable to the
material used for ornamentation.
The reason Is simple to find: Observe any on
coming toward you across a room. Your eye natural
ly Is focused on the face, 'still It take In about two
thirds of the figure. If. you -place any conspicuous
ornament just at the point where the eye ceases to
observe, the figure seems to stop there; but If you
emphasize a lower point, unconsciously, the eye
realize that the skirt continues down beyond what
It can see and gives you credit for the length It only
suspects. Any motif or embroidery on the bodice,
if at all striking, should come well down on to
chest, as this has the effect of making the neck
appear longer; but If the figure Is noticeably devel
oped, it is best to avoid a large ornament altogether.'
Long lines are, of course, eislly 'secured In a bodlc
by means of a vest or plastron, but the width ot
either Is a nice consideration. If It I too wide or
too narrow It has the effect of Increasing the breadth
of the chest It Is unwise to divide this surface Into
three equal parts by a vest or plait that la Just on
third of tho width across. If lighter In color than
the material of the gown, vest, or stole should be
In width less than a third of the chest surface; If
darker, owing to the use of brld or embroidery, It
Is advisable to make It "u" ilttlu broader than one-third
of this surface.
Perhaps the most essential line for a large figure
Is one which starts from the middle of the shoulder
seam and runs slightly diagonally forward to th
waistline. This line may bo accentuated by braid
ing, Insertion, tucks, or velvet ribbons. It may ap
pear as the outer edge of a -plastron, but It Is al
ways effective In diminishing the width of the cheat.
W'hll dlroctly horizontal lines In material or trim
ming are disastrous to a stout figure., an oversklrt
with a dip In front, thus giving a diagonal lln at
the lde, Is often becoming, but the point of th over
sklrt should coma below the knee.
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In treating a large figure It Is wise to emphasize,
though not to exaggerate, th width of the shoulder
and to have a skirt us flaring as the fushlon will
allow. In this way the hips are by comparison
diminished In size, und the hips are perhap th
greatest problem that a stout woman has to con
sider. It Is hot sufficient, however, to choose suitable
lines for your gown "alone; the size and shape of the
hat play an Important part In the artistic scheme
of the costume. If the crown is fairly hlirh and th
trimming upward In Its tendency, the result will be lo
lengthen the face and throat, which la, of course, de
sirable. As a rule brims that surmount a large face
Khould be carefully considered. The height of your
hat crown Is determined by the length of your neck
and will best suit you If It gives height from the
shoulder 4ip; the brim, on the other hand. Is regu
lated by the width of your shoulders and has a func
tion In lessening the width between them.
The .difficulties ot the slender, even the unduly
ifienilor. tlgurea are comparatively simple. I'ersonally
I do not believe In making a great effort to lessen
In efTect one's bright by a atylo of dressing. A tall
' i man, even though she he tliln. Is attractive If
only she be graceful, and I would rather spend my
mind and strength in acquiring a good carriage and
supple movements than In racking my brains for
means to disguise my five feet eight or nine Inches.
To t lie stout a final word: Be quiet In your dress.
Inconspicuous In color. Make lines do their perfect
work and do It gracefully; be comfortable, but abov
ail. loo!: sal
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