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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 14, 1910)
A MINTS FOR By Mary Eleanor O'DonneU Jfovcl ffe attire h the OrxentaJ 3a.sh iHKftE aro certain style of frocks whicn P K I are always called -little. The size may R I be the largest made, but It la a little Jt ' I frock Just the same. it always ni a chle simplicity, a demure unpretentious nefts and Is not designed for formal oc casions. Such are the little silk frocks shown on the page today. This fail these little frocks will be more In evi dence than ever. In fact It Is predicted that the little frocks, worn with Ions; coats, when the weather neces sitates It. will be vastly smarter than the tailored suit and blouse Women' have come to realise the compactness and comfort of the one-piece frock as compared with the blouse and skirt and they are not willing to re linquish It readly. When the one-piece frock U made with the net gulmpe und undersleeves It has all the ' advantage possessed by the washable Mourn s. The first thing; to consider In 'these little frocks Is the skirt. Not since the time of 'crinoline h- there been as much commotion mudc.ovrr the ques tion of woman's dress as during the last few weeks. Abroad we'll . known portrait painter have filled columns giving their opinions on the shackled or the hobble skirt as it Is cnmmonlr called her But bobble skirts still continue popular, regardless of the artists' laments, and their general adoption far fall Is assured. In all the Imported models these skirts are shown, though In a modified form. The skirt when It first made Its appearance was a little under a yard wide. It does not take much Imagination to see 'that tho average American woman would not long enthuse over a garment that wasn't wide enough to allow her to take ao ordlnury step. So while the fall styles see the reappearance of tho scant skirt It Is built along more comfortable lines. A popular model with it.- porters Is a skirt severely tight fitting to bet. v the knees, where It Is finished off with a bund, au-i plaited flounce started from underneath this. t'I'i.sl.r plaited skirt caught In with bands are also shown. In fact the new narrow skirts cail for tho ingenuity of the designer, with the result that there hus never been such a' variety of styles In SKirt to sel.vt from h i this season. Tho sleeves for the little frocks are short and Usually finished In the simplest manner possible. They are normally wide and not skin tlUL The peasant blouse style Is smartest. These blouses are bsually entirely anuam. The pattern (or tii -m are extremely simple. They only require thai the material bo folded over to tho required depth, a circle cut for the neck unj straight under arm status cut In one wth straight undvrsleove scam. , There -s ally Utile sewing to do. The utulcruriii urama are blUched up, as are the seams under the sleeves 4nd the trimming niuy be as .iiuple or- as elaborate as on eliooMu. Th narrow skirt, the peasant bliue ur.d the waist two Inches higher than inw-nial may he ao to be the thrke distinct style feature that will donn. i the fall fashion .ugurdi.g transparencies which h ive been no pou. lai lr,r ' IV Where i-onlliit-lice hi tilclr continued vou '- !i'lT'ii cover continues popular In fan TIIE umm9r A--: V7 ".'X fa: rrM am I'nder the nine Ileal arc Include I oilier tiaa.spai encli F, f i.!-l . vi! marquis ate. nj net. T e n.iper poslnj of different layers of cliiro-i or voiles Is be-i-onilng iiuiio and more u feature Thcru la almost no lyle .f walt-t r fniclt that has not Its' veil or cover of transparent fahri..- The touch of orlcntjllsin which enters Into many of tho fashions of the moment Ik almnM wholly intm diii'd throuifh the medium of fabrics prtnlel or woven OMAHA SUNDAY BEE; ATT.UST THE HOME. ' 7 -Mm , 7 arc'? - &k -1 'f--e -.c a . 1, "t 1 t ,Ai :- '11 Clir'4xia$ In re::il:i, i at h nc: e. or l'altley pitteiv.s and culor ' r ' Ha:idsjme r.uvellie In tliee materials are every where featured. This season Fashion Is moro particularly trying In her exactions limn for n number uf yearj. The rule of the short-walsted xown designed- for the limited a i Ntoirmy that could wear It. Is nxain loom-Iru- on the horlcon with the narrow, short skirt, th collarUf Llouse. and the Immense hat. Tlut there 14. 1910. PKESSMAEflEEL M i 5 MM is I 4U' ' f d . " ' ' . 'M ML . v w ft."'' . t , ft i. ' 4 f . f 4 ..... 4. . I, One Rtce Hodelxrx Spotted Sltc Is otie help. " Let guwna lie fitted lo the figure," "ores t lie word from 1'arls. "but fitted softly." And that Is Rood advice for all. Kharp outlines are a mistake for stout and slender. A certain Indeflnlte nesa of contour assists a large figure, for the reason that it makes It impossible to Kage Its actual sise, lot nothing reni'-u bulk so calculable as to see It uncomfortably compressed Into tight stays or close sleeves. Indeflnlteness serves slight proportions, also, and obscures angles and deficiencies with wonderful kindness. Few of us are satisfied with our type, and so, It would seem, we try to make up to ourselves for our appearance by assuming the manners of the style we admire. Oo Ideal Is, of course, our opposite, and the result of our Imitation Is often grotesque Indeed. And not on'y do we act the part of another, but w dress for the part as well. Our willowy friend is so plcturtsque in her narrow skirt, peasant blouse, and frills; surely If we wore the same our short, dumpy fmure wouiil almost resemble hers Hul while we n:ny hypnotize ourselves. Ihe general public keep a level head and reads our secret longing to be ill V ?r-., . ..II f ; ftrn f V vf k 4 I if 4 .i,..? siv.iV 1-v S . . :(, ..; In every wrong line ot Our dress. No, there Is no help for It; nature has cast u In a certain mold, and those are wlseBt who learn to make the best bt lt Bantlng systems may aid some and diet kitchens In crease the weight of others, but both theso are out side my province. Still, any case Is far from hope less, and the inbst discouraged may raise her head If only she Is willing to act like herself and dress according to her needs. The ground principle of dress Is "line." Color counts for much, material Is Important, but line is .essential. Given an Instinct or a trained sense ' for beauty of llnc and a dressmaker can evoke Rrace In almost any figure; let her lack this sense and she will distort perfection. Mistakes In dress will con tinue just as long as we are willing to be puppets In the hands of our modistes. Let us start with the large figure and see what' suggestions, In short space, can he offered her. In the first place she should flee for her life from the hob ble short skirt. Every Important line of her costume should suggest length. T,he style of her gown should be chosen with a view to long lines that can be emphasized by trimming. This trimming Is made ' more effective In its purpose If It end at or near the hem of the skirt In some pronounced fashion, as In a braided design or in some way suitable to the material used for ornamentation. The reason Is simple to find: Observe any on coming toward you across a room. Your eye natural ly Is focused on the face, 'still It take In about two thirds of the figure. If. you -place any conspicuous ornament just at the point where the eye ceases to observe, the figure seems to stop there; but If you emphasize a lower point, unconsciously, the eye realize that the skirt continues down beyond what It can see and gives you credit for the length It only suspects. Any motif or embroidery on the bodice, if at all striking, should come well down on to chest, as this has the effect of making the neck appear longer; but If the figure Is noticeably devel oped, it is best to avoid a large ornament altogether.' Long lines are, of course, eislly 'secured In a bodlc by means of a vest or plastron, but the width ot either Is a nice consideration. If It I too wide or too narrow It has the effect of Increasing the breadth of the chest It Is unwise to divide this surface Into three equal parts by a vest or plait that la Just on third of tho width across. If lighter In color than the material of the gown, vest, or stole should be In width less than a third of the chest surface; If darker, owing to the use of brld or embroidery, It Is advisable to make It "u" ilttlu broader than one-third of this surface. Perhaps the most essential line for a large figure Is one which starts from the middle of the shoulder seam and runs slightly diagonally forward to th waistline. This line may bo accentuated by braid ing, Insertion, tucks, or velvet ribbons. It may ap pear as the outer edge of a -plastron, but It Is al ways effective In diminishing the width of the cheat. W'hll dlroctly horizontal lines In material or trim ming are disastrous to a stout figure., an oversklrt with a dip In front, thus giving a diagonal lln at the lde, Is often becoming, but the point of th over sklrt should coma below the knee. . In treating a large figure It Is wise to emphasize, though not to exaggerate, th width of the shoulder and to have a skirt us flaring as the fushlon will allow. In this way the hips are by comparison diminished In size, und the hips are perhap th greatest problem that a stout woman has to con sider. It Is hot sufficient, however, to choose suitable lines for your gown "alone; the size and shape of the hat play an Important part In the artistic scheme of the costume. If the crown is fairly hlirh and th trimming upward In Its tendency, the result will be lo lengthen the face and throat, which la, of course, de sirable. As a rule brims that surmount a large face Khould be carefully considered. The height of your hat crown Is determined by the length of your neck and will best suit you If It gives height from the shoulder 4ip; the brim, on the other hand. Is regu lated by the width of your shoulders and has a func tion In lessening the width between them. The .difficulties ot the slender, even the unduly ifienilor. tlgurea are comparatively simple. I'ersonally I do not believe In making a great effort to lessen In efTect one's bright by a atylo of dressing. A tall ' i man, even though she he tliln. Is attractive If only she be graceful, and I would rather spend my mind and strength in acquiring a good carriage and supple movements than In racking my brains for means to disguise my five feet eight or nine Inches. To t lie stout a final word: Be quiet In your dress. Inconspicuous In color. Make lines do their perfect work and do It gracefully; be comfortable, but abov ail. loo!: sal 4 : . . -.v. r .'I : t i ? j Iv w )
