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THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: .TT'LV 24. 1910.
t.MMTS F4M TME MdDME IDIRESSMAEEE,
The Newest h'm
Urn? ooMble .Sip
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a.ARIS. LSpeolal Correspondenca. The
llrst great dregs parade namely: the
Grand Prix at Auteuil, has jjat taken
placa under conditions so peifert that
l.othlng seemed lacking." There was bril
llant sunshine and heat, but so delightful
ly tempered tht any costurmi from cloth
to tulle was permissible. There were hun
dred of exquisitely garbed womfn, representing every
period under the sun. and there were thousands . oC .
other women, who, under ordinary circumstances, would
have passed muster in a crowd, who stood about spell
bound with admiration or filled with astonishment and
we.
Such a wonderful display of dress has seldom been
seen, certainly not for several seasons past, for in ad
dition to the vast numbers who were for the first time
creations designed especially for -them and executed
, by their favorite, couturiers, every dressmaker of prom-,
inence in Paris sent hia or her model, dressed from tip
to toe In the cream or what each establishment had to
' offer.
The variety was great. for--enuh one of these great '
artists by no means follows the regulation beaten track,
except in a general way, but cauli strives, to give soma
distinctive touch that will mark his particular costume ,.
from others. It may be a difference' In material, . In
color, in trimming. In out. or half a dozen other details,
but, whatever it is, it has Its due share of attention
and undoubtedly its followers. .
One most noticeable' fact was brought out by Sun
day's race, and that 13 that it is first and above all a
blnclc and white season. These two colors ptedomtnate 1 '
nd gowna in which the two were combined stood out .
as being among the smartest and most becoming. The '
most unusual materials were put together and iii the '
most ui;ej:pected lv.ai.n1!-. Velvet and ohiffon, fuv and
lai-e. linen ovid satin, the most filmy of tulle and tho
hsavlpst of hand worlc, braid. heads, bugles, and all the
vast horde of things with which one Is familiar, be
sides dozens that were produced for that occasion only.
Two new ntylos, Turkish and Egyptian, were introduced '
and each found favor, and equally there were directolrd
gowns, gowns of the second empire, Louis XVI. and
Louis XVII. gowns, and others that had no especial
nnmo or date, but for all that were fascinating and
charming.
as lingerie costumes were the most numerous they
may lie mentioned first, but let no one be deluded into
th belief that they are the simple muslin affairs of
rows of lace and cluster of tucks that. were the Ideal
ilil'i costurno of our earlleV days. They are. nothing
of the sort, for these modern ones .are as carefully
planned and as intricate in design as are the frocks of
: or late. Nearly all are combined with costly lace,
m Ktat many have chiffon, as well as lace, brought into
their composition and the most ultra of all. are part
lingerie and part velvet, and are perfectly lovely and
unusual. ' . '
One of these last was Ivory white In tone, the ma
teilal being marquesette, which hangs softly and I
susceptlMw of being trimmed elaborately. The skirt
wa neither full nor scant klrts, by the way, are
a iriilo .iuiier and had a knee wde straight band
of white panne velvet, In a gorgeous shade of . deep
vcream. This band opened down the left side of the '
front, over what looked like a petticoat of 'chiffon mada
with wide tucks. There were velvet buttons and satin
loops, but these did not fasten. Above the velvet bund
there were some Incrustations of filet lace with heavy
embroidery between, and the bodice and skirt were
Joined by an Insertion of the former.
'
The bodice showed a deep 'pointed yoke iri"front of
chiffon, with a high standing collar, and the sleeves
were of chiffon edged with filet lace. Other than that
there was llttlo on tUe bodice, but in the bncl, begin
ning at th neck, wis a panel of the material. whl?h
was fairly Wide and perfectly straight, bordered with
velvet. This was catigh.t slightly at the waist and
then hung to the bottom of the skirt like a broad sash.,
' It was odd and naturally smart.
Another lingerie gown which hsd some novel features"
was of white batiste, bordered with a wide band of
cashmere, patterned chiffon. (' n this band, portion of
the design was embroidered over in heavy silks and
chenille, the same colorings brine used which were all
faint and dull. At the extreme lower edge of the band
were five row of narrow silk fringe, mauve, yellow,
pink, green, and white, on Jut above th other, and on
th bodice, which had old' fashki1c bretelle over the
lioulders, there were the same rows of fringe.
A beautiful all white gown was made of batiste, in
princess style, but loosely fitted. Pown the front and
back were narrow' panels' of the plain material, and the
sleeves also were plain, but every other part of tha
dreus was covered with soutache braid. This was put
on in straight lines, but of Irregular lengths, and the
braid was sewed on to the material on end, giving. It
quite a new appearance. There was a tiny yok of filet
lace on the bodice, which reached only to the base of
the throat, and at the left side of the back panel there
was a flat bow of lace and one long tab which hung
nearly to the bottom of the skirt.
:
There seems to bo a great craze for adding sashes
or bows with ends on some part of the cown where U
does not seem to be needed. Tlley are put on without,
any rhyme or reasilri. In tie' bi:'ck, lit the side,' or in front
and one etui only. U . allowed t-I.ajig. Sometime -ttieito-atihes
take the form of a straight length of ribbon,
usually moire, to on 'side' 6f which Is stliclieJ a fiat
fold of tulle or chiffon. Thl .1 lu.a totally different
color from th sash and the gown as well, and seewi
to have no connection wlfh' either.' Sometimes the" sash"
. consists of two short end, ojie .falling directly over- the
other and from under a folded perfectly flat piece or
ribbon.
Th ends of these ar trimmed with valval are. called
"grelots," queer shaped little ornament made of col-
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o Whatc CHxfrxx. TH Bait Is of Ihtent Je.ther
and 3a.fftn Cblozped. Oxrxietxnnited. with.
GblcL Btttoxi3.0n the Bodice a Clvctny Ua.ce
Over a Peep Shacle of ftafenta. Reci.
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F&3ock Blvte Ckiffon Gvm. Combined with Bnbtvultrrd
Vet and Tmmmrst tm thtt Bnoliiy unlU Blix Try
Thee Ta.imlWfe(ofSrnboxdery-oventh0
&hoxxlder3 and on the &leeYes.Jia.t of Mack Straw
Strut Velvet Ifim-rtieci yvxtn White L,.ce ' f '
the latest Fhsh
Homes fn Mf uftnimnap
ored silk over tvood. th latter snowing through the
crochet of the silk. These are new and give a touch
Wiat ! particularly smart. Another fashionable sash
is made of tulle, in black or any dark shade, and put
on to the- dress absolutory straight". ' There' 1 Only one
used, about ten Inches . wide,, and, .the .end , U. trimmed
with bead fringe of the same color.
Lingerie nd -chiffon costume 'in 'tflacV 4nd white t.r
possibly, the most striking of any that are being shown
this season. They ure ' fashioned in u manner to give
emphasis to. the material and color both, as part of
the gown will be made of one and part of the other, in
equal halves. For instance, a princess model will be
made of black chiffon, which extends from Just below
the bust to the knees. This Is mounted on to a founda
tion of thin black Liberty, veiled in muslin. The en
tire upper part of the corsago and sleeves, and the skirt
frnm the knees to the-ground is of white batiste cov
ered with superb embroidery done in cotton.
The lining of this part of the gown Is white, and
as all the foundations ore made separate from the ou.
nlil, where the twu colors Join, there Is a folded ribbon
v. ith bows and short, end on the former. This ls .tU
ways In some marked color, ponceau red, a new shad
c.f intgen'.a pink, or apple green, which, when vrth-d try
f-e outside gown. Is n. in h f-nftuner?. I have seen sev
eral 1 reiki run.lt in practlcully the same style and ail
beautiful.
I have also seen a stunning model In which the colo.s
were released, the black appearing nbout the lower half
of the gi'Vi!, with tii white above. Tills wa In blaeie
rhlffon. laid Ii five Inch folds from the knees to 'h
ground. Jietwetn eaeli was a row of hemstitching and
Ids connected that phrtlon of the skirt with tie upper
part. of thii Kown. This was wlrite sale de nlnon, upon,
' v.iih ii uiro huge Juts in black placed far apart.
Ch-3-tioeczble Blue 3-tn.dL ire Tkffeta. Gown.
Veiled ixiFUck Bd 'White Chi fori
lrxrnmed With, gnxxds of the ilK Ccn.tr
of the 0re.r a. Chiffon JJlovtse:. Ifed
Sti?a.w Has Ttixnmcoi Ajovtxxd. arid. Benea.th
with White looses: : hopcl pnon -bchha
This material formed the bodice to above the bust,
where It was. met by two or' three folds of black chiffon
which went acrons front and back and In points ove
the sleeves. . These Jast and a little' short yoke wer
in point de Flander lace, all finished with a narrow fold
of black. To this gown was added a black moire sash,
one end only, on one side of "which was a border o
ponceau red. . '
A black and white combination worn at Sundr- ' ra.-
was much admired, and deservedly so, for it was on
of the prettiest costumes there. The material was
sort of gauive, a trifle thinner than chiffon, and soft, am
with tiny hair lines raised on It that looked like bead
that made broad stripes, and all-, pure white In .tone.
The 'skirt, which was slightly full, wis plain except for
a band of the material going the other way.
Starting at the top of the little square neck, both
front and back,' was a narrow panel of black chiffon,
which extended in an unbroken line to Iho hem of the
gown. At the left sld of the back panel was a ribbon
also black, which hung in two ends, one above the other,
ajid each finished with " grelots " In deep red, over a
yellowish wood. There was a little beautiful fllot lace
on the upper part of the bodice and the sleeves ulso
were made of )ace. They reached to the elbow and
'.were finished with three folds of chiffon, ona In deep
red, one In royal purple, and the other In black. (
The coetume ' was worn with a huge whit hat In
rice straw, the under portion being faced with Chantilly
lace and trimmed on the crown with a monster cluster
of purple Iris tied with red velvet. It waN worn by a
manikin from Margatno Lacrolx, and as I navo said was
one of the smartest gowns to be -seen.
There Is a decided revival of dotted muslin, a ma
terial which ) certainly pretty, and summerlike, but
which has been out of use for some time past. Now,
however, It has come back with a rush and I to b
seen in all colors and In. fascinating frocks. One In
pale blue had t'-ny dots closely sprinkled over It, and
was made up with tollla da Jouy and Cluny lace. A
broad band of the latter- trimnjed the' bottom of th
skirt and directly above this was an equally broad band
' of , tollla de Jouy In Pompadour ' colorings and design.
A narrower insertion ; edged this, the trimming ex
tending well above the kntes. The. bodice was rather
Blmple, a good deal of doited muslin appearing In It
and the trimming, of course,, being lace and tollle de
Jouy. ... " . .
'
Another In pink had lis surface covered with large
dots and was trimmed with quantities of filet lace and
exquisitely embroidered batirfte 'Both pf these wore in
a decided yellowish shade, which formed a pleasing
' contrast with the pluk. . To oorrlpMo the costume there
was a wide tulle :lsIi In durlc innuvu bordered with
several rows of narrow fringe lii ull the shades of pink
apd mauve, and the hat worn wa of -yellowish la-?e
trimmed with two feathers, one in shaded pluk and
the other In muuve.
Yellow dotted inualln also Is fashionable, particularly
when combined with any shade of violet or purple, and
I have seen several models which were exceedingly
effective of yellow muslin irlmiued In purple tlbboin
or -in chlfiuB o that cole;- and cream lace.
i;:
Next to black and white purple ms to be the most
liked color, Hnd I pveirirU that all the tones of purple,
. tojn, the Jntrcae. and Jjfllllant royiil to the soft hluo
mauve, will be greatly used this coming fall und win-'
ter. purple 'clilffiTn' costumes trimmed with lace are
. being . shown. , and .Uieae. are all strong In color and
most noticeable. Home of theau gowns are trimmed on
thetrfctuttdutlirn in other 'colors, such a deep red, pink.
, or backh tUlfl .triniruing .hcJns. band of ribbon, or em-
breldory much raised and pronounced In pattern.