AA MINTS' FOE THE HOME
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AHIt'- BrPV Corroepondcr.L-e.J A visit. .
to Prl tiieso days la a liboral education
on matters of dre. for all th world
here, and It gos without caylni; that tha
ffntilillne portion of It ! without exception ;
out In ita beat and newest. Wherever ona
goes, to tha racea. to the numeroua tea
rooms In the Bols. to the many restaurant
p
which are frequented only by the fashionable of this
city and elsewhere, there Is a porfect feast of color,
a res-alar orgy of clothes that look almost good enough
to eat.
Everything Is fresh, dainty, and delicate, for It Is a
season of soft effects, of filmy materials, of treat sim
plicity, and It really seems as If never before have
women looked so altogether alluring and attractive as
they do just now. Then, too, the gowne are, most of
them, so delightfully youthful, not only In their making
but in the stuffs of which they are made., thougu it Is a
youtiifulness that is tempered with discretion and 'a
. not used without Judgmer.t.
Periiaps the most noticeable costumes are those, of
lingerla. which the first really warm days brought out
In numbers, and at Chantllly on Sunday I saw dosena.
any one of which was an artlstio triumph. Many of
them are difficult to deaoriba. because of their simplicity,
their charm being In their exquisitely fine materials,
their beautiful hand work, and In the real laoa with
which they ' were trimmed. There were others, how-
' sver, that were distinctly new. and the wearers of thee
were r.a.-urally the observed -of all observers, and un
doubtedly objects of envy and much heart burning to
ethers of their sex.
Tfca latest In lingerie Is beaded, a etatement that
sounds lucongruoua, but these beaded frocks are really
ao pretty that on wonders that they have never ben.
thought of before. They are made of a sort of crpe.
jriuoli more transparent than crepe 0 chine in fact,
quite as much so as thin organdy, but with a sllgbtiy
crinkled finish not unliku cotton erepvn. The entir.i
urfac of the material Is sprinkled over with tiny
beads, some quite round In shapo, others oblong and
ail fairly near together. Thes beads differed on differ
nt gowns, some being composed of porcelain with a
dull finish, while others were of wood and painted. , '
White was the only color employed for the white
gowns, although I saw one dark, blue frock which was
beaded over In shades of oyster wh;te and gray. All it
tlrls material is bordered as well as dottsd with beads,
and these borders showed elaborate designs n.ade of
several alsed boads, none, however, especially large.
On charming model was mud over white liberty
satin, th foundation skirt having a narrow band of,
pal pink at Its ham. and another about half .way vp.
Just over these bands appaaied the bordering of tho
outside material, which hung loose from the waist "down
and was not caught or in at any place. The skirt,
however, waa as s.-ar.t as !t could be made. )r.tr.e
bodice, which was simple, scarcely miiro than, a round
beb waist, tha beaded border was usrd about tho newk
and, as a finish to the sleeves, th lining as on the
skirt being pal pink.
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Another, slightly different In sty!, showed a wid
bordr mad over a soft shad of magenta pink, an.t
two narrow beaflt panel down front and back, als.
vr pink. On the bodice of this there was a little quf
fichu shaped ooliar of silk ovt.r which was a loose
hanging collar' of all beads, rem told that all th
beads ar put on by hand,- which of cotirso Is one rea
son why all the gowns are so expensive, for, they are
m.ti. . contlv as the most elaborate roniectlona of em
broidery and reul lice. To be effective
ulaluiv made, and on I l'vo see.i
t.iey must lie
there ltus not
v.. r.iait or a ruTe a.id sircsl
ii-uie t'.an tii
smallest gati.erir.g at f.i w!t.
Th belts ar either a us: row baud f bear.fi. ,-
close'.y together, or else a folded satin ribbon Is uJ
to match lu color th bands beneath. Witn these U.t
there 1 frequently a short sash that Is tied lu at th
left aid and has th ends finished with a fringe of Loads
that exactly match thoae on the frock.
In other lingerie frocks English embroidery snd lac
.r. th. moat Donular combinations, ana aunaugn
the
gowns themselves ar straight ana simy n.ir
th combination of th two materials ar qolt the
' t ... .llont model whii h had an undar
klrt bordeied with . Ergllsli- work, twelv
Uiches wide and lined y'lh dall blu tusaor o
or mo.-
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-that was a -litUe J-iikci- il.au .aUiir. Uvr this liaw
a tunlo of plain batiste having a bnrdor almost -a yar l
wide made of altevnuto raws of Knsllsh embroidery on l
Cluny lace. This was unllned, but around the wi!t
and bordering the sieoves was more embrolifery wh: i
showed th blue beneath. .
Irish' ipi e and point de Plunders are both greatly used
with Kr.illBli work snd both make beautiful gowns, If
belr a -icst!oa of taate a to which is the more effective-
There is also a strong liking for old fashioned
i5ittid r.-.ulln comblnud with the heavier embroidery
and for point d'esprlt with band of lCngllsh work be
tween. Ono dear littlo gown seen at Chantllly was of
pink dotltd . muslin, rather deep In color and banded
with ix.gllsh embroidery pure white In shade. This
one was on flno batiste and was put on like scant ruffles
having a little heading of niched up pink ribbon. On
of th dotted net had the colorings reversed, the foun
dation njateiial being white, while the embroidery was
done in soft pink on a background of the same ahadc.
In none of these costumes Is there any attempt to elab
Wa'e trimmings on the bodices, even the collars and
cuffs haiur ti.e simplest little affairs of lace, frequently
, not eve.i pJaJi-eJ.
;'.;r s tJiu-.i 3v ccsiumes, 1 owever, are not quite so
tvt- l.-i .i I ti.ii- details, although some of these do
vtinii ' l.i.'.'.pi r ' i:;.':i' t'-a'.r ccjnb'.nat'.on of material and
u!o,- :o h .vo thf.,1 Uie.r cachet. In thin staffs gray and
a tK.-ru oiikiie cf bronr.e are tii newest colors, and
t;, . ir.o..i:.i several gradations of the shades. It
T. .;u! J Min as if a.i gray gowns are, good and they ar
nearly a rii uch' wc rn as th ever popular white.
I kw a Doucet own of chiffon, gray dots on whit,
which was rnade with a skirt that waa quite full and an
Inch or two aove th ground. It was drawn In closely
bya hand. of brightly colored cashmere chiffon, which
cor.rtne.l th skirt at Its lower edge to within th neces
sary two. jar 3s, and there were two other narrow bands,
plnoed at eual distances apart, which also held It In.
There Mv;re sleeves and a shallow yoke of cashmere
chiffon, besides a r.arrow belt fastened with gold bu.-
OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JULY
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tons. The effect of this costume was further carried out
by a huge Charlotte t'orday bat made of the gray dotted
chiffon, drawn tightly about the head by a band , of
black velvet and trimmed at one side with a big droop
ing cluster of poppies, cornflowers, and wheat. It was
pretty and becoming.
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Another chiffon gown waa of a new shade callnd
" fog gray," wlflch la dark and has a sort of misty look
that Is particularly soft. It was a three piece costume
and was made with a skirt finished only 'with a broad
hem about the bottom. At the sides, however, begin
ning at th waist, were long openings, which tapered t j
a point at either end and were wide In their center,
and theee showed a lining of brilliant mandarin red,
over which waa an open network of fine steel beads.
On the coat, which was short, this same open effect
appeared under the arms, th remainder of the gar
ment hanging loose like a kimono. It was made en
tirely of network and fringe of. steel rads, lunl was
perfectly dasxllng In Its effect. The little blouna
which was worn beneath was nearly all of mandarli
color, there being only enough gVay Introduced to mak
It harmonise with th remainder of the costume. It was
on of th most stunning gowns I have seen worn this
season.
Bronx colored chiffon frocks are all combined wl;n
black, and frequently there is more than a touch of
whit to give them additional character. Thta takes the
form of embroidery, of Insertion of lace, or of satin
bands. These last ar striking, especially as the bands
ar usually white showing a narrow edge of black.
When this style of trimming Is employed for th skirt
th bodice ha Invariably a sailor collar of whit satin
10. 1910.
BKESSMAIKEM.
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Satz, zpimmzd
and the new and smart gairntlet cuff of the same. It Is
Impossible to say how smart thes chiffon costumes are
and yet they are so plain thut It U aUo Impossible to
say more' about them. They, are generally worn with
largo white lists most simply trimmed In black and ar
as notfceable as they are chic.
4c
Tunica are more than ever the rage and they are of
all sorts of materials and of half a dozen different
shapes. Those of chiffon are the most worn, and black
and dark gray are the prevailing colors for them. For
Instance, at Chantllly I saw one gown of blue and whlti
striped grenadine, the stripes going round the skirt, five
in all. and of graduated widths. It was mado with five
shallow plaits, each tacked beneath so that It appeared
narrow. Over It hung a tunic, having a long point front
and back and short on the hips. As a finish was a
double puffing, also of tlie chiffon, and ltwen was a
satin ribbon of soft mauve color. .The tunic was high
neck and sleevelets, a fashion much in vogue at pres
ent. It was loosely belted in at the waist and below It
the bodice of the gown, all-white, with one broad ba.n!
of the blue encircling It. rould be plainly seen. Th
sleeves, of course, were whtto with deep blue ouffs.
I also saw a dark gray chiffon tunlo worn over a gown
entirely composed of Valenciennes lace Insertions, th
real, and English embroidery. The tunic waa slashed
at the sides almost to the waist and was edged all about
with a broad satin band of the same shade of gray.
The slashings at the sides, which were wide, were tied
across with sashes of apple green chiffon, and under
the gray satin sailor collar of the garment appeared an.
apple green tie which was knotted in front and hung
to below tne waist
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For utility suits lor the street those' of str.ped sat'.n
or of taffetas seem to have entirely taken the place of
tucBor, serge, or the llpht weight fianneis that are
generally worn at this time of year. Every woman who
is not wearing the one has th other, snd it must be
confessed that for comfort they ar beyond criticism.
Of course one misses th tailored, well put together loo.c
that only costumes of serge, flannel, and even tussor
can be given, but on the other hand these little frocks
sre Jaunty and young and decidedly easy to knock about
In. Black and dark blue are the colors most frequently
chosen, although one occasionally sees red, dark green,
and bronze. '
Changeable taffeta has , th preference over that of
plain colors, and on many of the coats of these suits
a narrow piping of satin, of on of th two shades. Is
used for a trimming. These coats ar always short,
that Is to say. more than ordinarily ao, many of them
coming only two or three Inches below the waist. WIY.i
thete the real waist line is not adhered to and an ex
tremely short walsted effect Is given them by th lift
ing of this line. Most have a finish of soma sort -of
batiste collar, a sailor or otherwise, and deep cuffs adorn
the sleeves which are never, more than three-quarter
In length.
I have seen lately some good model In long coats,
or cloaks, and every woman In Paris Is always pro
vided with one, .and frequently several. A large num
ber are In satin, many ar of cloth, and soma few ar
In tussor, which, although not as fashionable this sea
son, always hss Its admirers.
The striped satin suits are made much more plainly
than are those of taffetas, most of them having as
much of a tailor finish as can be given to this ma
terlal. The stripes to be fashionable are broad, at least
the dark colored one Is, the white line which divides
these being about a quarter of an Inch wide, Skirts
and coats, both, sre generally trimmed with bands of
the latin going the other way, but otherwise they ar
plain even to severity.
One Paquln model Is cut In khnono shape, but with a
smaller and more modified sleeve. The garment Is
. slightly double breasted and fastens with enormously
. large gold ball buttons. Th sides of the coat coven tor
about half a -yard, and these openings are fasten d
across with gold buttons and narrow straps. 1 Hug turn
back cuffs 'and buttons trim th sleeves. Around th
neck Is an unusually large sailor collar with long shawl
shaped ends In front, and these ar of whit satin, par-
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