f A MMT
J.' 'aris - Special Correspondence Befon, I t hi M ' "K i I ' It J'V L
P beginning a description of gowns, hats. I ' i I M M !A( I W7 i W f 'A I , M $ R xI rM y tPni i '&9fd'S
and the like I must devote a little space VI ; J J I f, W lh Zs ''I A fs At WWVM
to telling of a lecture which was given a , J) I ll4fl . I kC rm i t B 1 , .b, A Y ' h AS
i1" few days ago by a feminine literary light -.' -(p: I f U. .) " W I t fS ,J 1 Vf L lAfr7t
Srj' of Paris, Mme. Marcelle Lender. The loc- I I i Ji I i If V I '1 . fJ t 41 ' W YK'A K
tur. was given in the hall of Annal... i 'AT - &2?) I - 1 I l C-' 1'
ar.herdadwhUl.or Mk . t ' & If. V i . X S i ' KW b' .
subject!
ing place for the smartest and moat o 'to date Frenoh
women. Upon thla occasion, ' however, lime. Lender
did not choose any of the burning questions of the hour,
such as women's suffrage, co-education, the ballot versus
the ballroom, or any kindred topics, nor did ahe attempt .
to Instruct her listeners In music, art, or literature,
but Instead ahe selected for her subject the single
word "Chic" and discoursed upon that with all the
enthusiasm and knowledge of a Parisian woman of the
world.
The lecture lasted for fully an hour and was listened
to with almost breathless Interest by the 00 and more
women who were present, many of whom were pretty,
most of whom were chic, and all evidently willing or .
anxious to become still more so.
As for the fair lecturer herself, she was both pretty
and charming and. In addition to being the acme of
chlcness, she looked adorable and was dressed with ab
solute perfection. When talking upon such a subject
how could one fall to Interest when fitted out in a
Paquln model of white liberty satin almost covered
with' a tunlo of the finest of Jet and caught at the waist
with a celnture of dull old gold set with enormous
caboohons of green stones, a wonderful and beautiful
ornament There was a little gulmpe and elbow sleeves
of exquisite Venetian lace and, as a finishing touch -to
her toilet, wore a gorgeous hat of monster size. In
black, trlmmsd In white aigrettes.
But, besides looking lovely. Mme. Lender was dis
tinctly clever and gave her hearers much valuable ad- .
vloe upon the Importance of being chic and the man
ner In Which this most desirable asset might be .ob
tained. She told them that by a different . manner of
standing or walking her own smartest of costumes
could be made to appear quite dowdy and uneffectlve,
or, as It did look, Justvthe reverse. She showed them
how a hat could be put on to be chlo or Otherwise and
illustrated her ideas with her own splendid headgear.
Bhe told them how to be chlo when playing bridge,
when dining, when at the opera, or when at church,
and. In fact, there was no phase of life, walking, talk
ing, eating, and well-nigh sleeping, in which one could
not be chlo If she chose and would follow certain rules,
which, after all. were as simple aa A. B. C.
' Most of the advice given waa really good and was
practical as well, and In America, where nearly all the
women are naturally smart or. In other words, chlo
Mme. Lender would make her fortune.
But now for e'otbea. Next to foulards crepons prom
ise to be the iwt fashionable for summer wear, and
some lovely suwt: seen lately have been of this, both'
In silk and cotton.. Personally It seems to me that
cotton crepo is pettier and smarter for warm weath
er than silk, a'.!.ougb. gowns made of It are not so
dressy and are seldom quite so elaborate Most of the
newest' cotton material Is either striped or checked,
or, if plain, the goods Is embroidered by hand, which
at once puts frocks made of it among elegant toilets.
I have lately seen ons of these last which was un
usually effective, the ground being of cream white,
spotted at regular Intervals with large dots, also done
In white. These In turn were surrounded with French
knots of silk, done in the real china blue shade. This
embroidered stuff formed the entire upper part of the
skirt, but beginning at the knees waa a flounce of some
sort of heavy lace, the pattern of which waa worked
over at Intervals with several shades of blue. A sec
ond flounce of lace bordered the skirt snd between the
two was a third made of plain blue crepon and put
on without fullness. The bodice was a combination
of lace, the embroidered and the plain material, the
first forming a short yoke In the back and a deep one In
front, with a small shaped piece which showed Just
above the belt The plain blue was draped between,
but the under arm pieces and the sleeves were of the
embroidered goods, the latter being edged with lsoe.
The belt was narrow and of black satin and ths gown
was quite out of the ordinary.
Another, which waa striking, was a combination of
crepon and tussore, the latter being of a coarse va
riety. The skirt and upper half of the bodice were of
the crepon.1 In a string color, and the tunlo which fell
over thla was of the brightest shade of cerise tus
sore. This tunlo was cut In deep points "which hung
at the sides of the skirt and other points which came
up over the bodice In front The edges of all were
worked with hemstitching, done in black silk. .
About twelve inches from the bottom of the skirt
wide eyelet holes were worked Into the crepon, and
through these a black velvet ribbon was passed, which
THE
FflM THE BWDME
fV ii Roe Colored Chiffon QovriJ j rtA &W' tA tfii
o Whitrc ibext7V Satin.
. w-i . -W -r- -s-
Wariww' rpfetr FV?xTaCe. l9jperr ZLt-
MOptL FROM
was lied in big stiff bows on either side where the
points of the tunlo fell. It made a most attractive
trimming. The sleeves, kimono shaped, were of crepon
and untrimmed, but there was as a finish a little round
collar of yellow lace, with a Jabot of the same, and a
black patent leather belt with a gold buckle.
In checked crepons one which I have seen was so
simple that it can scarcely be described, but it was
Just the sort of a costume to be worn at the seaahore
or any other resort and would, always look well. The
background was white barred off with hair lines of
soft yellow, which formed regular checks. The skirt
and bodice were connected by cordlngs, several rows
appearing around the waist line. This allowed a good
deal of fullness to ahow In the skirt and at the bottom
this fullness was drawn In by two puffs, five or six
Inches wide, and the same distance between the two.
These puffs were made of batiste of a rather deep
shade of yellow and were gathered In full, giving a
brilliant line of color. Going directly about the cen
ter of the bodice waa the same full puffing and the
large kimono sleeves were drawn In Just above the
elbow by the same. A plaited collar of net with a
smart finish of three black satin bows completed the
bodice. . . . ,
Another summer resort costume was also made of
cotton crepon and was one of the most stunning that
I have seen. The ground was nattier blue and there
OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JUNE
Veiled, in Black. Chiffo,
a Af r 0
of -thus J3bdi.ee. of
were quarter inch lines on this
black, which formed huge plaids-
of red, yellow, and
The skirt was fin-
tshed with a wide bias band of black and blue change
able silk, which lapped over on the left side and was
fastened with three large Jet buttons.. The upper part
of the ooatume waa made like a Rusvlan blouse and
waa quite long. It waa entirely bordered, down trie
left aide, as well as about the bottom and the neck,
with a Mas band - of silk and Urge buttons of Jet also
fastened this. ;
The sleeves were put In at the armalze and were
large, with . deep ouffs of silk to finish them, and there ,
waa a gulmpe and standing collar of Irish lace etalnod
a coffee color. The girdle which. held the blouse at
the waist was of black satin, with a chou of the same
at the left aide.
Chiffon, tollle de linon, snd silk crepon sre the three
materials that. are considered the most fashionable for
gowns for occasions of ceremony and each one In turn
has something especially to commend It There la per
haps nothing that la so altogether satisfactory as chif
fon, for It seems to lend Itself to any afyle of making".
It may be draped,' tucked, puffed, and ruched to any
extent and look aa airy aa a cloud, or It may be fash
ioned on the most aevere of lines, covered with em
broidery, beads, or bugles, and be almost as gorge
ous aa real lace. Equally, when its freshness la de
parted, there Is nothing that .has a more bedraggled
12. 1010.
DMESSM AMEEL 1
appearance, and It is at this particular stage that oiw
gives the preference to the more substantial goods.
The silk crepons this season are delightful and come
In a great variety of colors snd designs. Some of the
prettiest are In cashmere effects, but softly tinted, no
that they may be made up without veiling, whlc'i
Is not the case with many cashmere silks and even
chiffons. Gowns made of these are generally trimmed
with plain chiffon, or with liberty satin In a harmonis
ing shade. Lace also Is usually employed upon them,
and frequently this Is tinted to matrbAthe plalnxcolor
or Is a few shades lighter.
Simplicity Is the rule for these costumes, aa It la for
many that are being shown this year, but they all
have some small touch which marks them aa coming
from an artist's hand.
One lovely gown from the establishment of Jeanne
Hallee was of a cashmere designed silk crepon, two
colors only being used, dull gold and a dark but brilliant
green on a background of a softer shade. The pattern
was a large and oriental looking one. Bordering the
skirt which had a certain amount of fullness In It
waa a knee wide flounce of black satin and fastened
Gorrrx of iatrjJer Tk.t-tczm.cct JBl3.cz
ci-nd White Rixla.Yci th.e Ujpfaex?
Bu?1rof trhe Ski.rt Veiled xn White
Tbiatr J)'Esixiv. 'Bodice oFbiLzndt
Thin t V 'Bapcit- AZ2ot Mack Ch i fjbn .
Ifcse CbloxyecL Ribbon, jfcums th.e
Ge.Tttex'S of the Clnocx on trlrze
Shit. Iiaxtfe Black Ha- Trimmed
ixi"Wkdtet HziJc 3jnd ffavive Flowers.
IMPS. Fltotl KlVAlM
with dull gold ball buttons. A wide Satin band als.
strapped and fastened with buttons appeared on the
bottom of the sleeves, which were short and large,
and In place nf a belt or girdle there was a band i
links of dull gold about the waist caught with a supern
ornament. The gulmpe. which was deep In front, was ot
fine gold lace over tulle and a high standing collar ol
the same.