TIT E - OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JUNE
5.
1910.
(M fflHMTS F(D)M THE ITOME MffiggMAKEM. M
NE of the biggest problems of vacation
time Is the problem of clothes. This sea
son It is particularly difficult to solve.
There Is such a multitude of lovely materi
als and such endless ways of making them
that It Is bewildering to try and decide on
what Is practical and pretty. This season.
too, there Is so much offered that la bad, so
much that Is good, that It requires study to
know what to select and what to discard. There Is
ome comfort In this thought, however, that It Is not
probable that any one person can avoid making one mis
take at leiaat; either in selecting the wrong material or
the wrong style.
Success in selecting a vacation outfit lies in the power
of knowing how to adapt one's clothing to the locality
In which the vacation la to be spent. The wardrobe re
quired at a, fashionable resort must necessarily be
larger than one required at a more quiet place.
Every vacation wardrobe requires at least one tailored
suit. The newest suits all show the short coat. The
thirty-two inch length is still good, but much smarter
la the twenty-atx length. Some of the newest models
ara even shorter, tout twenty-six Inches Is a good com
promise. A treat many of the suits have the regula
tion, man's coat, showing the notched collar and small
revers, though the long rolling revers and the shawl
collars are quit as smart. In all the models the shoul
der seam la short, the plain sleeve head is used and the
coat I are form fitting.
Before selecting any of these coats a woman must
study her face, her figure, and more than all the fact
of how she wears her clothes. If she Is strictly tailor
made she is not Interested in the suit that must be
adorned with furbelows. If she wears straight lines
ahe knows how to pass by frills. If she looks best in
subdued colors pagan ones do not Interest her. She
goes through the task of selecting the costume with
confidence and serenity.
The argument that Is sometimes brought against this
marked Individuality of dress is that it tends to make
one unfashionable and conspicuous. It is more con
spicuous to be distinctly out of a fashion than to be
distinctly In It. Most women recognize this fact, and
all who do not wish to draw attention to themselves
observe H.
But the women who have failed to keep in the fashion
because of the strong obstinacy concerning what they
want to wear is a small minority compared with the
mass of women who choose whatever happens to be In
fashion. These are the women who will wear short
skirts when they should wear long ones. If long skirts
are In fashion the women who cannot manage them
will wear them according to rule. They have not
. learned the beauty of compromise In fashion and as
the result they spend a lot of money and yet never look
' well dressed.
; Another point of the new coat Is the disposition to
make the front longer than. the back, which is the dl-
. rect change from what we 'have had, and possibly not
quite so pretty. There is no doubt that the coat which
la longer in back than in front materially assists in
lengthening that sweeping line from neck to heel which
very one recognises as the foundation of a good figure.
wnen 11 la Droaen up ids graceiui lines are lessened.
The envelope flap decorated with cloth or black silk
covered small buttons is a. new trimming for these coats.
Ever since the days of the Immense dlrectoire pockets
. between the knees and the hips there has been more or
less ornamentation at these points. This flap Is usually
cut in with the back width of the coat, and lapped over
the front width, then flatly stitched down.
From the standpoint of design, the novelty In both
suits and costumes lies In the skirt- The new narrow
affects, banded in closely below the knees as well as
cut exceedingly scant are the newest models. The Idea
Is being much varied. There are some practical and
wearable interpretations. These skirts are really re
sponsible for the short Jackets, for It stands to reason
with so much of the novelty of the street costume ex
' pressed In the skirt the jacket must.be cut short to
reveal the new features.
Although the three-piece sulta have not been as popu
lar this season as formerly they are shown and worn
considerably. The dresses are usually rather simply
made, following out the general style tendencies.
Coats for traveling wear a:-e mnde full length, seven
eighths and three-quarter fitting styles, made of silk or
any of the smooth faced fabrics, cut slightly curving
In the lower part of the skirt to conform with the new
figure ne. In motor coats loose and half fitting models
are shown In mixtures and rough cloths. Ratine,
called also velour delaine, is the novelty cloaking ma
terial. AH these coats have plain coat sleeves. . full
length, cut strictly tailored style, sewn in plain at the '
armhole. For novelty styles a number are shown with
sleeve In one with the body, or cut with shoulder
In raglan style with large, deep cuffs.
Among the materials that are most favored for sepa
rate skirts are the black and whitv checked worsted, fine
serges In navy and black, and the lighter shades of
olive greens, as well as those of the new hairline stripe
In white and black, black and white, blue and white, and
in brown and white. Light gray homespuns are also
popular, as are white, serge, white duck, while unJ
colored linens.
Khaki In its original color will be used foreveryduj
skirts, and It is most economical for it does not begin
to show the soil as does the white separate skirt. It
Is not dressy and cannot be worn in the many ways that '
a smart white linen skirt can, but It is not Intended
for this kind of wear. '
All the wash skirts of the season open from hem to .
hem so that they may be washed and ironed easily.
When plaits are used on these wash skirts they are
shallow, side, not box, and put in the skirt above the
knee in narrow groups. These Inserts are not regular
In their line around the figure. They are placed here
and there, as though one had no exact knowledge of "v
space or distance. This gives irregularity to skirts,
which is not a bad method as it makes them differ one
from another and keeps them from the air of precision
that Is not always attractive.
The skirt for every day wear during vacation days is
of the six or seven gored mode), with each of the seams
definitely outlined by a quarter Inch lap, which is well
stitched down. The back Is the old fashioned habit
variety with the seam straight up the middle and fasten- i
lng at the left front. A more fashionable model has a
shaped panel down the back Instead of the two gores
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joined up to the middle. Onr none of these skirts
is there any attempt at decoration.
When a skirt has to stand constant tubbing It
has to be studied out with attention to every de
tail. The flare Is everywhere eliminated. All are
cut three inches off the ground and finished with
a three inch hern. There Is an Introduction of
tiny pockets on models that fasten down the
front Instead of at the side. These are slant
ing and nave no flaps and are put up well towards the
waist. .
A placket of any kind la at Its worst In a wash skirt
No matter how carefully ironed, the edges of the placket
rarely remain even. The hooks and eyes are usually
off or they are broken and rusty. The woman who
makes any pretention towards style never uses this
means of fastening In any skirt that is to be tubbed.
She uses buttonholes and buttons at the sM or the
middle front, The buttons are more often of pearl than
cloth covered. The latter do not wear wall, for the
cloth over the mold soon wears out. Tha question of
losing th pearl buttons In the wash Is alao a vexa
tious one. The invention of a button that la clamped on
when the skirt Is worn and taken off when It goes to
wash has, however, settled these bothers.
The. blouse to match the suit U thoroughly popular.
The separata wtatte wash waist la also a fixture. It is
tucked and plaited this season and shown with long,
three-quarter and short sleeves. It usually has a frill,
sometimes detachable, down the front The ones that
fasten down the back are worn, but those fastening down
the front are by far the smarter for Informal wear.
Stzit oi- Gre.e.n Sh3.rrt-urxd.
feet pvz'-tlx Txx rn rrrixJt-i 3 3 ot
'BlacK aond. White,. Jsr
wn fastening down the back are mor
but the law of fashion says sternly that
blouse should be made of different color
from the skirt
Women need many little muslin frocks during the
warm months. Each year sees the need more grati
fied. It has been found a convenient and practical
way to dress In summer and the woman with a good
seamstress has discovered that the making; of several
muslin frocks in the house Isinot necesarlly an expen
sive matter. The new muslin dresses for this occasion
are still made in the one piece effect, but they are near
ly all put on a belt and worn under a belt or girdle.
Striped, sprayed, and sprigged designs are the favorite
ones for these charming little frocks. They are usually
on a white background and wash better than muslins In
solid color.
The hst of the moment for traveling and general wear
is the sailor. Its trimming Is usually a swirl of gray
and blank tulle, deftly trimmed and arranged In a
series of loops, slightly wired, which are placed at the
back. Another popular model for Informal wear is the
eoft straw, modified snd chastened colonial model. An
other is the East Indian turban. Another has a large
brim which slopes downwsrd until about two inches of
the edge, when it suddenly rolls up all around. In addi
tion to this general roll the brim Is usually turned up
sharply at '"one point or another. This hat, like the ma
jority of this season's models, sits low on the head.
Veiled effects are still used, particularly with white and
black lace. Flowers of Innumerable varieties are used
(n abundance. The French wreath of-smnll flowers ll
''considered the smart thing In floral trimmings.
In traveling- bags the rage for black continues. Thli
season thera are more novelties than ever offered ll
enameled leather, In dull finished black seal and walrus
Bags built along the kit style are considered muel
smarter to carry than the suitcase, though there art
occasions when the suitcase is mucli more practical.