is. I'.no.
I MINTS FIDE. TEE ME ME DRESSMAKER.
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THE OMAHA SUNDAY It EE :
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lATUS. (Special Correspondence! Juiit
we have thoroughly settled ourBflvci Into
the belief that all our gowns, whether for
street, afternoon, or even the most formal
occasions, are to be short, and that we
shall be able to spend this season In com
plete comfort, then suddenly from a clear
sky comes the news that one of the great
Withortttes lias put forth an edict that the long akir'.
Is to be taken back Into favor nud that the short frock
will only be smart for purposes of real utility or for
the young.
Sad as this announcement Is there does seem to bo
some truth In It, for it comes from no less an estab
lishment than Doucet's, famous for the most feminine
costumes that may be found In Paris gowns that are
soft and frou-ouy even when intended for everyday
wear.
I have recently seen two or three of these new cos
tume, one a so-called tailor gown, and the others built
on more elaborate lines, and all showed the skirts with
n Inch or two of material on the ground. They did not
exactly train, but In the back there was enough of an
Indication of one to call them long Instead of short
gowns. '
The one Intended for the street was of dark blu!
serge, of a rather coarse quality, and In weave mme
like a basket cloth than the regulation cord. The skirt
was close fitting in the back and showed a bias seam
to Its hem, with almost no fullness in Us entire length.
The front breadth was wide and had some extra full
ness let Into the top Just below the belt. This hun
straight to within a few Inches of the bottom, where It
was held in place by a pointed strap. This was of black
satin, nearly covered with embroidery done In dull faded
shades, half a down in all, and of a large, conventional
design.
On the coat, which was cut in simple half fitting style,
the same effect of pointed straps on embroidery was
seen, these appearing on the lower parts of the fronts.
There was also a long rolling collar and pointed cuffs
of the same, the latter finishing the sleeves, which were
long and pouched from the elbow down. It was a
graceful looking gown, probably rendered more so by Its
little train of about three Inches, which appeared sharp
ly in the back.
Another frock, also from Doucet's, was Intended for
the street, but this one was of a coarsely ribbed linen
In a deep shade of yellow. The skirt was scant and
quite long, and was made still scanter by two rows
of small tucks, going up and down, each edged with
bias bands, all of the linen. This trimming followed
the line of the skirt, being shorter in front than In the
back, where it sloped gently down three or four Inches.
On the bodice was shown the same arrangement of
tucks and bias bands, these, latter, as well as on the
skirt, being piped with the smallest line of black satin.
The fastening of the bodice was somewhat unusual, the
buttons beginning on the left side by the shoulder, con
tinuing to the hunt, where they turned and crossed to
the right side, continuing to the belt. There was a
plaited collar about the round neck, through which was
passed a wide tie of black satin, knotted In a smart
bow, and the ends of this were slipped through the but
tons, where they crossed in the center.
The third Doucet gown was pretty, the material being
foulard of a cashmere pattern, but all vague and In
distinct, the colors being green, mauve, 'and pale brown.
It had the appearance of being made in one' piece, the
waist and skirt being connected with several rows of
shirring, done on large cords. There were two rows of
this also on the skirt, one above the knees and the other
tar below, the cords being large and drawing the ma-
decided tinge of red. and the skirt was made i.f t.i.s,
having large black dots plentifully covering Its i.nfacr.
There was an overskirt of the same shade of linen,
but without dots, but this was bordered with a six
Inch band of spots, thoe being white. 'The bodice
was of the bordered material, coming up Into a sharp
point, front and back, where It lost itself under a collar
of plaited laic. There was a little under blouse and
klmnno sleeves and thee were of the bluck dotted ma
terial, the contrast of color giving the gown, a great
cachet.
Although linens are enormously, liked foulards are
by no means losins their popularity, and some of the
prettiest ond most useful costumes seen are of these
soft, wearable silks. The styles of these are almost
as varied os their designs, hut most of them show
plaltings, puffs, ruffles with ruched headings and cord
ll.gs, all of which add to their soft unit graceful lines.
In many frocks both plain and figured goods appear,
the former usually In flounces on the bottom of tho
skirts, and for a portion of the blouse. As always In
foulards, black and white Is among the most desirable
combinations, but rod and black, many of the new
shades of brown, and blues are being greatly used.
H ;t
Another silk which Is being shown for rather dresiy
toilets Is of nearly the same quality as foulard, b'lt
with a different finish, and this does not come In pi'
ternod effects, but In plain colors or changeable. Pirnn
gowns are being mude of this, combined with chiffon
and lace and are frequently beautifully embroldered-
T saw one of these frocks at Zimmermen's which w.n
almost Ideal, the color beln; the before mentioned
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terial In well. At the head of each cord was a line or
a lovely shade of pink satin, which seemed to brln
out the other colors and give them life and character.
The waist was corded and Bhirred and so were the
sleeves, both on their lower part and about the arm
Ilea as well, the effect being exceedingly quaint and )
unusual. There was a deep guimpe and short under- '
sleeves, and both' were made of tulle, of a Boft aha. In
of brown, finely tucked.
A number of linen gowns are being Bhown. the ma
jority being skirts and coats and dressy In style rather
than plain. One attractive gown that I saw at Francis'
was all white but for the collar and cuffs of the coat,
which were of the most stunning combination of colors
In tollle de Joey. These were deep reds and blues on a
brilliant yellow background, the design being In har
mony with the colors and bold and dashing.' There was
other trimming on the gown, but this was all white, a
sort of Insertion of heavy net Incrusted with shaped
pieces of linen, a single row on the skirt, and the same
on the coat and sleeves.
' Colored linens, which last season were little seen, are j
again taking their place among the most desirable or
frocks. Some of the new shades are adorable, be Ins
bo pretty In themselves that they require little or noth
ing In the way of trimming. There Is a new color,
which la called "brown bread," a soft and delightful
shafte, which la neither tan nor brown, and which U
especially suited for morning frocks. There are sev
eral new shades of blue, most of them rather bright, for
this is a year of bright colorings, and there are some
wonderful reds, covering a wide range, from a' bright
burnt orange to the deepest rose.
Most of these linens any of a heavy quality, the
threads being large and round, and equally they have
ine soilness, witnout wnicn no material is rasnionaDie r Tt' tt
this summer. The Btyle of making these linen suits 10VV21 Of liS-COCK CoiOjrCd Foixla.Td.
differs little from those of serge or any lightweight Witlj VlotXtt.Ce 3lCl Sle&YeS oi thfi Sjm
material, for few of them are Intended to be laundere I , . . . .7
and In consequence they often show trimmings of silk ijpPXtlKle Cl V2tn. 13. rp& White
or satin and gold and silver braid. One charming frock. POtS,Jndex?slteStt 0fL3.Ce 3Sn(X
a creation of Beer's, had a half yard band about the TTrnrt-tn -p- f-w fP d V - ft
skirt made entirely of braid, gray and -liver. There was VttSriAXTkQ CVtilS Ol SdJTie YeTf Full
a bodice to this costume, which was nearly all of the rletedL. FJ&Sted Colls. oi LbC& With
braiding, with sleeves and small pieces under the arm Ttg o Hlxrlr V Tt- X?t-. ra...
of the linen, and in place of a belt there was a long V Vt. W 7 &11CK F&teiXt
sash with ends of gray chiffon, with a round plalte t iyCa.TrCX Celt: .
collar of the same. rf HOOKL RfVrERU ff
Another which came from a new establishment, thv v"
Klalaon Mongv, was quite remarkable for Its originality, .ovtu bread shade both In the mlk ami chilToa. I'll
and in addition It was exceedingly smart. Thecolor wai skirt waa of the former, being trimmed with a wide
a shade known as rosewood, a shade of brown with 4 band embroidered in many shades of deep purple, green.
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White Foxxlar Govnx Cbver-ecL with
'.pt(ose Kq Dots JncL Havinrij Tbrrlm
Vesidxx Finished wit2xa Five Inch fiaurf
Jffe5tf "RedL.ThR Lower Rlit -Uo.
Sb'lT't' Is Tz'xmTneaL with vvM.'f
11 Of La.ee Com bined a J.it-fcT Sv7 Z
ChoxxKof Black T veils with Handsome
I&ixne stone Bixclcle xrx the -nr
Bliick Watt- Tui.mm.eei in Shaded Jfeoi
age Black Plcmes3jnd Bla.ckChiion
tlOOtL FRO MAtGANB J.A CKOIK V
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and yeil'W. i'ruiii this bund came anoliier
cliiffuii laid in tine tuckn up to the wuisi. where they
Iliilehi-d under a belt of ull the bhudes or tile embroidery
made of tulle.
The bodice was partly uf silk and partly of chiffon,
and there was a gnat deal of embroidery mi it. but
lightly done, so that it did not look in the least heavy
or warm. In place of the uauul lace guimpe and sleeves,
these were made of purple tuilo over a palo wliade r
brown, and there was a little fi-MliiR about each mado
of fine uld faahionrd blonde lace.
Beside gowns this material id among the lies; for
evening wraps and coaM. for they may be fashioned
from any dark color anil still possess what an evening
wrap requires a dressy appearance. One of these late
ly sevu was of ch4i)tfeublv silk, Nuttier btuu and black,
the Btyle being an old fashioned pelerine shape, with
rttlier a high waist shirred in, long, large sleeves, a
deep rolling collar, and wide cuffs. Tho trimming 011
!t consisted of several rowj of narrow cerise velvet
ribbon, put 011 plainly about all the edges of the gar
ment, the lower one and upper one showing a fringe
of X.itiler blue silk. The wrap waa unllned. but for
Hiiinethini; to be worn fur summer evenings It was
perfect.
Another new coat, which. huweer. Is not Intended
for tne name purpose, is being shown by I'allot, and li
one of the novelties of the season. It Is a real Louis
XV. Jacket, and It Is (mended to be worn with any
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Ai-be,Trxoo3rx Govmoi- "Voile. Am. IWo
Sha.cZ.e.3 o I&.kri Coloxykiledirom
the Krue.es Up with. JzTxjexre Green
Chiilorx Ther?e Ave Toixch&s oS
c&jaanese rnbroioL&r'y' oh-ike Bodice
and a. Crix.im.jpe, And Sleeves oi Old
Yellow X,3lc2. hosel from secr cf
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Kind of lingerie gown or with a simple fropk of chlff jii ,
that Is all selfrcolored. These coats are fairly long
and are cut with deep hip pieces put on with a seam
and having on either Bide huge pocket flaps. They do
not fasten in front, but are so cut and pressed that they
fit Into the figure In front and hang loosely at the baK
and sides, with Just a slight curve. The sleeves come
somewhat below the elbow and are finished with wide
cuffs; the revers In front are much pointed and enoi
utously large, reaching over the shoulder.
The material of which these are made is moire, an I
of any color that may bo wished, hut the model that 1
saw was a stunning shade, " coque de roche," not red
nor yet burnt orange, but something between tho two,
and wonderful when worn with white. On -the pocket
flaps of this, as well as on the cuffs and revers there '
was some embroidery done In black and silver, and all
were edged with a half Inch band of black satin, which
made them still more pronounced.
Chantecler has Invaded the domain of blouaea, anil '
there are several new fancy waists which have been
named after this play. The most unusual Is made of
chiffon In a yellow brown shade, lined with white and
covered with nne Chantllly lace, over which is the
design of the cock. On the lift sldo of the blouse one
of these Is larger than tho others, and this Is em
broidered in silks in all shades of red and green, with
touches of black and brown. Just above the cock ap
pears a tiny sun made of small gold head 3, and all
thin embroidery la so exquisitely done that It la a real
work of art.
The chantecler red blouse Is nnolher which Is finding''
favor for wear with tailored costumes, especially those
of dark blue or brown. It Is made of various ma
terials, such an crepe, ninon, cliarmeuse, and chiffon, and
its popularity Is In Its color, which ia wonderful, ao soft
yet brilliant.
Of course the Chantecler hat has had lt day, but there
Is a new variety of that shape which has lately ap
peared which is among the best shapes of the year.
It Is a little like a cloche, but not so drooping at tho
sldo or front, and at the back the brim Is turned up
slightly so as to show the lining beneath. This Is
always of two shades, red or white, and either of velvet
or straw. The hat Itself is of rough straw and soft,
und the colors are usually dark blue, black, and white.
The trimming of these consists of huge bows made
of velvet, which are placed directly on the top of the
crown, the bow part covering that-and the ends falling
down In front and back. IteiJ velvet bows, black velvet,
and sometimes white, are used, and I have seen some of
which the bows were of white silk on which were lar:
tpols of black. They are not intended for dress ha'.s.
but rather for morning wear, but they have a lot of
style and are generally becoming.
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