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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (May 8, 1910)
The Omaha Sunday Bee. AT BIT WOMEN rAOxs ova to kxoxt. JABT IKYZK DRAMATIC faccs ona to xiokt. Vol,. XXMANo. 47. OMAHA, SUNDAY MOKNING, MAY 8, l'JH. ' SINGLE COPY FIVE CENTS. 1 : 1 arTijESv ' V'V.. Ik J . Vf fowpoiTitsSMsonSwtePMasals The 'tfS'A' . 1 1-1 t- f KreetaiaiKiilW5J flaxiAles Ave. Shown iMlk.i- ' ; i fcrOT Bla-ck and. White Chiiioxi Tbx&sol.Fx? xn$e, o&Bl&cTxlh. ARASOL. makers have evidently considered that it was their turn to produce some thing weird and queer, and admirably have they succeeded In their-wnbltlta. The materials employed are wonderful ly pretty. It Is the new shapes that are o awe inspiring;. Take,; f of Instance, the square parasol . fliat has oftly touf -rtbe and Is edged with a fringe. Then, there. Is. the, oblong parasol, the fourteen rib parasol 'with big hall tips matching in color the silk covering, the aeroplane, the pagoda, the canopy top, also parasols having a five Inch perpendicular edpe which are called - lampshade parasols. All these forms are radically new and In the most expensive lines are heavily decorated with em broidery. Red parasols of all descriptions are prominently fea tured, as are also combinations of black and white. Three frequently have borders or bands of Persian or Dresden design. In fact Persian effects are prominent with all colors, parttculurly so with white taffetas and the natural pongee coachings. There are a great many pongee parasols shown. Aside from the plain coach ings, both lined and unllned, the pongees are made up embroidered, both with border pattern and allovers. They are also shown with a narrow silk border of plain colored silks, chiefly green, brown, and red. which Is hemstitched on. They are also finished with wide bands of fancy silk of a harmonising shade set midway of the widths. All white parasols are exceedingly smart, too. Light shades of tucked liberty silk or chif fon shirred and Inset with lace or net are shown In ninny designs, handsome Venlse being often used on the sheer materials, with or, without supplementing and embroidery. Coarse white net. boldly embroidered in white, with sometimes glinting interwoven threads of gold, appear among the expensive models, and there are less costly parasols of coarse white silk net which have the net smoothly laid over white silk or satin and bordered by a deep silk fringe. Covers of Tteavy white silk have exquisite designs printed on of flow ers or birds In softly blended colors. Borne of these designs repeal In each panel to form a deep border and are lovely beyond description. Splendid effects, too, are produced with Persian designs, either deep regular borders or panel designs. There are parasols entirely In Persian silk design and coloring or In the Persian silk with a border of plain color. Among the best of the covers into which the Persian Idea enters is the natural colored shan tung with wide borders of Persian design, chiefly in oriental blues, yellows, and blacks. Red parasols of all descriptions are prominently featured.- -The ribs of most of thesa are finished with gold tips a little larger than the ordinary size. 'When the parasol Is closed a gold ring about the width of an ordinary wedding ring Is drawn over the tips, this ring being tied to a cord which Is wound about the handle at the point where the tassel Is attached. This device not new. to be sure makes an admirable sub stitute for the usual strap, which It excels both as an ornament and In a practical way. The woman who understands the art of looking pretty thinks over the matter some time before she decides on the style, of parasol and the coloring to choose. Aim-ays when buying a parasol Consider the lights It gives. A green or blue parasol may be good for the eyes, bu) either shade has a most disastrous effect on the complexion. The rose parasol, unless softened with a sheer white lining, makes the face look scarlet and brings out strongly the dark circles and lines about the eyes. Rose Is exceedingly trying to the complex ion unless you are young or the skin unusually clear. No woman should put rose next to her face unless she Is sure more than sure that her skin Is the proper pink and clear white which It demands If one would wear it successfully. Another parasol point Is to carry the chin up. The average woman with a parasol over her head and her chin held low will have an aged look that mould surprise one who does ot know this little trick of pretilness. Another trick is to repeat the color of the eyes in the handle of the parasol. The handles usually come near the chin and so near the face that it becomes a part of the color scheme of the complexion. So to make It vcord and harmonise it is helpful. Indeed, to repeat the color of the eyes somewhere In the handle. This may be done boldly by a bow of chiffon. It is more ubtle. however, to suggest blue, or brown, or gray, whatever may be the color of the eyes, by matching the wood to them. Another Important point la to have the parasol large enough. A tiny little aunshade will do for driving and it may answer the purpose when the- idea Is to merely shade the eyes, but for the promenade, and especially- with. the large hatB that are worn this aeason the big parasol is the only- one that will do. Be careful not to carry the same .parasol continually. If your gowns are few you can. make them look more riimej'ousV. the simple trick, of.; changing the para sol. It wlllrgive the eljrect of Having' changed the color scheme of the entire ' gow'ri:' ' V'-V V Carry your parasol back of your-head rather than above It. A parasol held directly over the top of the head gives the face queer shadows. Be careful and do not have the handle too long. The extremely long handles are more for walking than for carrying. Oet a parasol -.with a blowy look. If there are ruffles so much the better. "Keep within the fashion, of course, but be sure that there Is something that blows aort ly around the face, for the face needs something soften ing, no matter how pretty it may be. Don't carry a dark parasol. The lighter the shade the better. Nobody ever Saw a black sunshade that was actually becoming to the face. Nobody ever saw a woman look pretty under a black silk umbrella out side the pages of a popular seller. ' Another thing, a parasol has a tendency to make a person look a trifle taller. The short woman can carry one of moderate size and look taller In stature, but the extremely tall woman must approach the subject with caution. There Is an immense variety and some extreme nov elties shown In the handles. Most prominent among them Is the chantecler Idea. Not only are the roosters numbered among the chantecler Ideas but almost every known variety of beast and bird. Then there are handles quaint Indeed, having the head of a woman peering forth from beneath a poke bonnet. These ns well a the birds and beasts are beautifully coloreil As a rule, however, tho handles are covered to match the silk covering or to harmonize with them. They are not. however, the long shining sticks of last year, but, while equnl or longer than last year, have a dull finish and ure often cut with six or eight sides. Some attractive handles are In cream colored wood And are more or lens carved throughout their entire length and show a slightly deeper tone In the depths. They greatly resemble the carved Ivory handles which are so expensive as to make them prohibitive to the aver age purse. Parrot designs are frequently shown In this sea son's models, as are also flower designs, the daisy de sign being the one that Is in greatest favor. Crook handles are also being shown more and more. A lovely corn colored parasol has a light wood handle tipped with an ivory crook, and with rather large Ivory tips as to the ribs. A sliver gray one has a wood handle In the same tone also fashioned in the crook end. This vogue of the crook end will no doubt bring into vogue the adoption of the Parisian method of carrying a parasol when not In iae. This is to fasten the crook over the left arm, so that the hands are practically free. Large carved roses are In evidence on mountings, stained to match the cover. The Egyptian beetle or scarab Is also used. Several high style novelties are shown In the eight ribbed parasol. The widths of one are deeply curved at the bottom, and at the four alternate points tri angular points of lace are inserted that appear to' project from under the square silk cover of exquisite Dresden design. The handle of this style is a long crook, which can be removed or adjusted on the ferrule end If desired. Another handsome model was of light green, moder ately priced coaching of Japanese design with broad flap tips of bone to simulate old ivory, and a mount of strong, highly polished bamboo, which also resem bled Ivory. The handle, of mushroom shape, was of -bone, JUnted in beautiful opalescent light green. There was absolutely nothing extreme about this model, though particularly smart and attractive. A number of parasols are shown this season fashioned from hand kerchiefs, both in silk and cotton. Suitcase parasols and umbrellas are no longer a novelty, for they have proved so useful that they are in every collection. These have handles which unscrew and tarn down so that they will go easily Into the or dinary sited suitcase. They are a great boon to the traveler, since there la no difficulty In tucking them away In a small space. The neat effect of the tailored paranoia la well liked by the smartest women. In these there Is a wide choice of beautiful colors, and many of the handles are . " ' 1 1 4 h st ' I ; Mfjl : ,'."4 : J I V I - ',,; h A f 1 1" i , V $ ! 3 I i 4 1 fe "V : 1 ' M I 1 v .j ,i oti,ix A v i $ fcrr .? iiffr sjnet Wh.-i.-te,. Tixro IBLjrHaricik&Tch.iess L-x?( Ifeqvxxed. in JkJcxnf This JLtvx?acttvve. Jbdel i . ... V t tr7 - 1 W ih ; ' t ' i 1 ":J'"'"''''iiMt).!i i, , mi" ,uyf c.- af- " it i-wt.-www.va ..... . , wv.-awv? ' 7 iT W2iz yri-pii lBoxXest? o- r unique, both as to design and that some of them are riot duplicated. In these long handles are much sought for, but always they are furnished with the hinge find the screw which makes it pobslble to pack them away In a small xpace. The parasols pictured here are shown with flu most attractive of afternoon frocks. The trimming of tht-se frocks depends upon tin character of the material chosen. For Instance, silk of Persian design, veiled with navy blue chiffon or . marquisette, show- " " " - m n . d! and. blouse trimming. Printed cottons, linens apd IxtC- JS.S-COTX jXOOLCJi Utt.tZtl& silks in Egyptian and Indian design, veiled with black JSCc."r&3t? &h rg, Th SeaSOIl or dark colored voiles, nets, or chiffons. The sklr-s rvil TTt av-ci)-'-i.i are narrower in outline. Models showing the f tillne - h LtiA Una &ti0win.xzilUustra.tiori gathered Into foot bands are taking better than when XsWovIcL Otlt in at&fOVVl. they were first shown, and continue to threaten our T Jp 7-, peace of mind no less than our comfort of body. It Xa iOjp Witin JPOrCL&T T7 Is devptedly to be hoped that their grotesque exag- "YC-2Zovv3 3jnA j&OtV-CZS geratJon "will be- their own 'speedy undoing, for in their ' . present form they destroy any approach to graceful ness in the feminine silhouette, and when worn, as they so frequently are. with large hats - and the new est parasols the top heavy effect of the figure becomes ridiculous In the extreme. K women who are blessed with the slightest degree' of common sense would only take a Arm stand and refuse entirely to wear sucli ridiculous garments the dressmakers would soon perforce be obliged to give way, and to devise smart ifklrts that would be of reasonable shspe. and wider at all events around the hem than around the'hlps. , To describe the hats with anything approaching accuracy that are worn with these afternoon costumes is almost an impossible task, so endless I the variety seen in shape, style, color and mode of trimming. It is everything by turns and nothing long. The milli nery of the aeason Is Just beginning to recover frDm the chantlcler epidemic, traces of which still survive In the prevalence of the pheasant mounts more or less golden, the plumage of snow white hens and tha bronze green tall feathers of the king of the barn yard. In their right place, on traveling hats, for example, or on toques especially intended for wear with the severely tailored salt, pheasant plumage and even rock's feat tiers are appropriate enough, ui though even then they should be used only In small quantities and with considerable discretion. Any thing which Is suggestive of a game pie with the bird sitting contentedly on top of the crust. Is altogether out of place on a woman's head, and for smart oc casions in summer, whether for town or country wear, hats that are trimmed with a profusion of field flowers or roses, ribbons or plumes ere in so much better taste than thove hideous shapes overbalanced by the plum age of barnyard fowls. Karly In the season mallne was an Important factor In millinery. This was followed by an extreme use of black and while lace, used alotia In the form of big bows placed towards the backof the hat, or the lace used In connection with flowers, feathers and ribbons. Mallne and lace make such exquisite trim- Tixc Pagoda. Is Anotluex yV&veltv oth.e S&ajsoTx The Shape Is $a.peuiese i-txJSti&ct ci.-nd. Is (Shown in fiumzovcs mlng that their perishability was entirely, lost sight of. The newest picture hats have large downward slop ing brims. Large bows are frequently shown made of two kinds of ribbon, silk 1 and ' velvet, or Persian and plain ribbon Joined side to side. Charlotte Cor day shapes, large crowns with narrow, sloping brims. In the newest trimmings is the use of ribbons plaited lengthwise, over which a -wide lace edging ! shirred. The ribbon Is usually' attached around the crown, permitting the lace to fall over the crown' or brim, according as the ribbon is placed high or low on the crown. Wide ribbons are the rule. In many cases, however, two narrow ribbons In two shades are sewed together. Velvet, satin and silk ribbons are combined In this way. A most attractive bow garniture was composed of plain blue-gray ribbon Joined to the edge of a . Per sian ribbon in which the same colors predominated. Velvet ribbon Is used in unique ways. A black hemp hat had the edges of the brim bound with scarlet elvet rl'.ibon two and one-half Inches wide, the edges being laid In irregular sloping plaits on upper and under sides of the brim. Wide velvet ribbon Is frequently laid on the brim, the outer edge plain, and the inner cdse plain. In some of the more recent models i narrow box plultlng or quilling of narrow velvet Is placed on the rdne of the brim, while a similar plaiting of wider velvet Is passed around the lower purt of the crown. . From a'.l the dressmakers one hears that separata coats are to be a feature of many of the toilets this summer. I have seen. several to be worn with silk gowns or later with those of mull and lace or chiffon. They have been of chiffon, always black, and the shape has been quite like the Itusslan blouses of tha winter. They are unlincd or lined only with a mousse line of the most transparent quality, so that the coat shall look as ethereal as possible. Some show a finish of puffs, others are banded about the edge with Chantllly lace, which makes them much more elegant, nml the fastening, which Js at the left side, Is Invariably of sone beautiful and costly buttons or buckles. There Is no finish about tha necks of these garments other than puffing or a 'narrow insertion of luce, and for a belt there is a folded satin girdle, quite nurrow, sometimes all black and sometimes with another color added. There is, of course, no warmth to theso coats, but they are most attractive and pimply give a softness to a cos tume that might olherwMso look severe. Silk and satin coata also j rumlse to be popular, and of the former the changeable silks are quite tha prettiest. These are made with as much frou-frou as possible, ruffles of lace, puffs of net, and ribbon ruches entering largely Into their construction.