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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 24, 1910)
THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: A1MUL 21. HMO. A ESMTS- FM TME DMEMAIKEM. fcfi 1 X v V CXL, -"X j , - a x sl . - j r I l)1X 1 J n w raj ?rr- n V AVM kj rv x i if i T r Sim-pie . . ..-wi?". if . .. I n . x v w -:v , I I W.. X i?dap-fca.-txo-rx of tins. & CtS f 5? The Fk,3.sa.xrt Tsrpc of fa.ircix3es3 in$ Ascend. JTodesl.; IIE coilTur and millinery of this season I are arranged on the ascending scale, and I I the new halrdresalng describes a conical M I shape gradually rising from just above the brow. Always In agreement, the milliners and hairdressers are once more marching to gether In their new designs. The crowns of the hats are necessarily rising above the chevelures they cover, though the hat must still be worn low over the head If fashion ia to he satisfied. A decided revolution in halrdresHlng has occurred Inthe last few week. The ubiquitous swirl, the hideous braids that fat women seemed piteounly ad dicted to. and the turban modes have now ail departed Into the limbo of fashions forgotten. It Is one of the glaring sarcasms of dress how a woman with a fat, pudgy form unci face is not con tent until slio has topped it all with a fat, pudgy, braid coiffure. But even the fat woman will have to drop the braided coiffure this spring. It has been unanimously voted against from the start. There are few, If any, faces that look well when framed in such a coiffure. It Is too snug, too upholstered. It had nothing artlstio to recommend it. It did not suit the American fnce. It la the style of hair that goes with the passive, saintly type, and there is nothing of these qualities in the American face In any class of life. Hair dressing, If rightly understood, Is the art cf face framing. The natural headcoverlng 1 should pro vide a proper setting for the face and its expression. As every face has Its own peculiarities of shape and, features. It standsto reason that a suitable arrange ment of the hair must take them Into account. Every woman should be a law unto herself when adapting a coiffure style to herself. Look at any group of tine portraits of beautiful women, how many conventional coiffures can you find among them? Hardly one. Su much of beauty Is fitness, and It is the general har mony of, these beauties' appearance, the tactful ad justment of a fashion to their needs, that makes them Instantly pleasing. In the tlrst place, before deciding on the style of halrdressing, one must consider the shape of her face. Is your chin of the kind known as square, and the contour of your face in coiwoauence inclined to be angular? If it Is an approximate square outline, seen full face, the arrangement of your front hair will niitlgale the harshness of line. Whether you wear a pompadour or part your hair, you will be wise to fcep it Hat on top, and, while allowing it to stand out on either side, do not. let It extend to the dimen sions of a flare. This arrangement should be freer and ofter In proportion as the square face Is long and thin. Exag gerated looseness emphasizes hollow cheeks. Just as they are made prominent by too eevere treatment. Is the chin noticeably tapering, and do the cheek bones by comparison seem unduly broad? Then this defect must be corrected. A low, flaring pompadour or broadly waving coiffure will, by contrast, appear to diminish the breadth In the upper part ot the face and narrowing this apace has the effect of lessening the sharp point of the chin, which consequently to the eye becomes more blunt and round. An exceedingly round face Is best treated by a low pompadour. After studying the shape ot her face, one should notice how tier head Is set. on the shoulders. Is the ncclc short and the distance from shoulder 19 r AiXw ft ' P v& x V' l f mmwm . nor Pot mm B MMr r - itswwi I p ms i ism MMay HM:XiX' ff,ixh r'f xvvXs iXN JLcLapZELtiorx ofi the- 4 Fluffy Fzin0e Is Favored. "X Vv: rrown short also? i.ength must be gained by dress ing the hair high. Is the neck long and thin? Its awkwardness will be to a certain extent obviated by dressing the hair mod erately low and by accentuating a horizontal line in the disposition of the hair, both In the front and at the sides. In any case, It is advisable to brush the hair at t lie side of the head horizontally, as It seems to keep the features In better relation to each other. If the hair seen In profile makes a eharp diagonal line from brow to neck. It Is likely to thrust the chin forward, while a perpendicular line, so common In connection with the pompadour, makes the nose prom inent. Half the charm of the new graceful Psyche knot graceful when properly handled Is due to the long, wavy, horizontal line over the ears. Fashion today demands that the hair be dressed as high as possible and that the coiffure be simple. The Important thing to bear In mind Is that the shape or the head must be emphasized. The styles are many, their adaptation almost Infinite, and whether they are becoming depends upon Judgment and taste, whether they are artistic depends upon fashion's requisites of grace, simplicity, and shapeliness. Among the new modes the Aureole In gaining ad miration. The front hair Is waved In great natural looking undulations and Is turned straight back from the brow. In other cases It Is broken by a parting, but Invariably there are the big ondules whtch so wonder fully soften the features and Improve the appearance. The short, thick curH that cluster In profusion on the- napo of the neck are also shown and recall ths Eugenie curl of graceful mien worn by the empress of the French and copied everywhere by those who hold this beautiful woman to be the best critto of dress and the most exquisitely garbed woman of the last c-enturj-. This style has great merits for evening wear and will be popular indeed. There has been much talk during the last year of the frlnne returning. It is shown again this spring. There Is nothing stiff and heavy and straight about It, but on the contrary, to a woman with a high forehnnrl, It is apt to lie becoming In Ha new guise, which Is decidedly fluffy, wavy, ami airy. V The large pompadours are entirely out. But in puff ing the hair at the sides rats oro still used. This is a sensible Idea, for It is far better to use a good rat than to rough the hair. Itoughlng the hair Is a thing that many women understand to their sorrow. They " take a si rand of hair, turn It down over the face, run the comb backwards over it, and produce a rough snarl. Then they toss it back and pin it in place. It makes tho hair Moult fluffy, but at a ruinous expense, for It breaks the hair and makes it dry and snappy. It is rullier difficult to describe In Just what essen tials tho ultra new coiffure differs from the one we wore last year when a pyramid of puffs was In fashion. I'nsslbly t lie only difference Is the flattened top effect around the line where the hair grows. Last year this rose in a huge mas to meet the puffs that were placed In the middle of the head, but now It Is minus the roll or crfipe, which Is used only at the Bides. . Another difference is file method of building the pyramid at the back. last year flat, neat, regular puffs were ued. and they were pinned to the head and surrounded by a pompadour. Today the puffs are open ut one end, merely curled around the finger and loft loose. They are mounted on a cushion of false hair that carries them far out and up from the head.. Young Kills wear tills cushion of finger puffs and curls to extend over tho whole top of their heads, leaving merely n lino ot their own hair to show around tho face and neck. In all tho styles of this season the ears are well hid. Ears seldom are pretty, and In all art galleries It will be found that ears are generally pretty well con cealed on the, pictures. When the hair Is puffed out at the Fides a few scallops of hair are pulled down carefully to cover the ears partially. Among tiio new hair ornaments are the silver gal loon bandeau, fastened at the side with a cluster of silver grapes and, loops of silver; bowknotof black tequins mounted on wired black net; filigree stiver bandeau with spray of silver wheat at left front; slender wreath and aigrette of briar roses; circle to go around Psyche knot or around head. In gold, silver, or oxidized tissue; soft quills of gold bade grass with bows at side and bandeau of gold galloon. In comb only three kinds are used. The first Is the plain and piped band style, worn singly or In sets consisting of a back comb and side combs. The sec ond is the ball topped comb; thi Is worn In the back, either nbove or below the curls. The third stylo Is the scroll sawing effect In combs, And Is light and graceful. Barrette are extremely large and plain. No fashion that Is revived arrives In exactly the guise of Its former appearance, bo that tne curia of to day are not the corkscrew of a century ago, nor do they cluster In loose profusion above the ears. But once more the modern novelist will be able to emulate those of mid-Victorian years and to descrlbx Ms heroine es Bhaklng "her ringlet roguishly." and It may happen that the sentimental custom of cherishing a lock of hair will return, for it would seem that th appealing ringlet was responsible for the lover' delight In such troasure long years ago. But again let the warning be urged that fashion never repeats Itself slavishly, and hence It la that tlm ringlets are Introduced In a number of new ways, and usually upon one side of the face only. The tresses on the opposite side of the face are lifted In careless draperies up to the chignon, which la rolled or curled, ' as fancy wills It. It will be observed, too, that a a rule the side curls are particularly becoming to a brunette with a damask complexion and dark eyes, and that the chignon that Is of masses of fluffy little curls suit the golden haired girl, who also will do well to try the effect of the forehead fringe. Coiffure ornaments are Infinitely varied. Those set with pearls are particularly dainty and most suitable for the debutante. ' Hatpins are so numerous in style that It would be almost Impossible to reproduce anything like the vast variety obtainable. In spite of the enormous number of novelties brought out the imitation pearl hatpin, either white or gray. Is the one In general use by smartly gowned women. Those of extravagant taste wear, of course, the real pearl, but fashionable women generally wear the Imitation. A new and attractive feature In hatpins Is the matching of the same design In different sizes. A hatpin shown recently consisted of two medium sized pearl heads joined with a long pearl chain, the latter caught In double festoons and caught In the hair with a small hairpin. Lines of hatpins now being shown Indicate that the long stem pin Is not to be worn tills season. The tiew pins range from nine to eleven inches long. Hatpins in medallion form, moderate In size and to which are attached metal tasselH, are quite the winart. est novelties shown. They are usually Jeweled slight ly, the Jewels being those that are used to simulate the eyes and mouth of the animal heads with which they are flatly decorated. Another type of this hatpin Is one wltli portions of the head enameled to repre sent Irish crochet. Its rim Is composed of a chain link. This Is particularly attractive for wear wlh the lingerie type of hat. Hatpins In Egyptian design ' are another expenslvo novelty that Is being sold in all the popular colors. One of these Is a trlangulsr cut out Egyptian design finished in antique. The cen ter of the pin head hears a face carved In moon stone and surrounding the face Is a number of email pearls in antique settlng.- Many young girls wear the head braid coronet with tiic natural hair pulled softly around the face. Tiie chiffon motor bonnet is finding a new use. The traveler dons It on the train on removing her own hat. Hats of leather trimmed with ribbon are among tile smart accessories worn this spring wl.th tailored gowns. For outing days there Is a stunning model of a sailor hat with a slightly rolled brim and trimmed with a . plaited cord and two quills placed quite flat at the side. Veilings of marquisette, or silk vollo will wash In finitely better than tiiose of chiffon and will be be coming. Must of the new wraps and hats show a hint of shin ing metal somewhere in clasps or button or buckles or beautiful metallic braids or bands. Lovely 1 a new scarf of gold and silver wrought tulle, entirely covered with sheerest black mouMsellne de sole. A softly plaited silk ruche trim all the edges. Many of the bandeaux, whether of metal tissue or of velvet, are fastened with a Jeweled buckle. In addition some auch ornament a a sheaf of wheat, a quill, or a dainty feather. Is fastened with the buckle. Koine of the new parasol are of a solid color, veiled with a net embroidered in a thread the came color of tho silk or contrasting strongly with It. Hi