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ARIS. (Special Correspondence. Hiti are
tha aflalra of vital Interest at preaent, to
the exclusion of other ltema of dress, for
the French woman of fashion dons her
headcear for the coming- season far in ad
vance of her (Towns or other accessories
of her toilet. Ho hats It Is, and they are
of all sorts, tig and little, high and low.
ajid I had almost aaid rich and poor, only that there
re none of the latter.
It la difficult to aay what Is the particular prevailing
node. Email hala nowadays do not In any sense mean
a head covering thaX cneaaurea little In actual Inches,
but rather that the new hats are small by comparison.
Aa a matter of fact, even those to which Is applied that
adjective cover the head almost to the nape of the
neck and allow almost nothing of hair or even ears to
be aeen.
So far. toquts and turbans are the favorites, and it is
question which one haa the greater number of admir
ers. The spring toques are longer in outline than those
worn during tha winter, some of thtra having quite a
pointed brim in the front which comee down well over
the face. They are made of straw or tulle or a com
bination of the two, and flowers and lac also enter
largely into their composition.
The inter braiding of straw with tulle Is considered
mart, and some lovely color schemes are evolved by
this. Burnt orange straw plaited with two shades of
-ellow tulle and trimmed with a monster rhou of the
three colors is new, as is ulna black straw braided with
goid and deep metallic blue and having for Us decora
tion a single ofprey shadt.l from black to blue.
Toquea, with their wide, upturning brims covered with
dull gold lace or with brownish lace straw, are fashion
able, and these are trimmed either with some sort of
large, flat flowers, with huire tulle bows, or with fancy
aigreta. Most of the trimming is plac-d well toward
the bark, sometime directly in the center, so that
the keeping of one's hat polaed St the exactly proper
angle is a dimcult matter and one that requires much
care in its pinning. With all thtlr decoration in the
back tiiese hats are prone to slip and get out of rlaoe,
and nothing takes away from their chic appearance
more than ds the sligtitejt look of falling backward.
Turbans of coarse straw, having enormous crowns of
j'Uffed tulle, are being shown in wne of the b?st
places and are among the attractive models. Vsualiy
the brim is ftver.il shade lighter than the croon, and
tl.e color that Is itwft .In ugue Tor these Is
brown, from the deepest clustnul kharie lo thoc of
oft tsn, old gMd. and Jotp itvtra. These hats are lit
tle trimmed, for the crowns are so muih fulled and
puffed that they require little, but occasionally a single
far of PaTIc Grram.xzm Ifect 3tTa.w
hben ana a. FhTxcyChld BxAckle
raw C6LoTedL Sa.tm Slovene with.
ke of Tfih and. FileirTcUze.
,'rxi 2-o i-cie iT'edL in Gold ltipL
Ed $ecl with Jee& Gold FzzYipe
flower or a bunch of shaded foliage will appear among
thts soft puffing at one side.
'
Another good model in the new turbans has also the
transparent crown of tulle and loosely woven brim of
fancy straw, but the former is entirely covered with
flowera, masses of roses, bunches of cherries with their
leaves an J stems, Parma violets, wallflowers, or any
colored blossoms that one may wish to match the cos
tume. These make serviceable hats and are especially
adapted to be worn with one's first tailor suit.
The faahion of wearing tha spring turban la most
coquettish, for Instead of being placed on the head
straight it Is worn as far on one aide as is aafe. To
keep them firmly In place a small barette is sewn in
at one side, renerally the left, which lifts the hat
slightly, and a series of veil adjusted pins does the
rest, with the moat fascinating result imaginable.
For evening tall turbans are the most worn white,
black, or colors and quite an oriental effect is given
them by wearing diamond and pearl ornaments on
them of great magnificence. The hats are made to look
as light and delicate aa possible, and to accomplish
this the tulle is draped about the frames any number of
timea, which are otherwise unllned. with the softest and
airiest effect.
Large hats this spring are mostly of mohair and fine
straw, and their trimming consists of feathers, garlajids
of the loveliest flowers, and enormous tulle bows, in
variably put on in the back. The ahapes are el flier the
wide brimmed ones, straight like a huge, high sailor, or
they are the most plctureeque brimmed ones that turn
at the side and droop slightly both back and front.
A word must be given to hatpins, the beauty and coat
liness of which constantly are increasing. Thia season
offers a wonderful number of novelties. Great dragon
flies of horn or enamel, beetles in gorgeous colors, a
large cabocbon forming the body, any number of com
binations in enamel and aeml-preclous atonea, are aome
of the best that bave been aeen. All are exceptionally
large, and it seems as if there would be no limit to
vhat extravagance in size would go. One thing in their
favor Is that they invariably are ornamental, and aa
long as this la the case they doubtless will continue
to grow.
The production of " Chantecler " haa had a certain
effect upon the fashions, particularly on hats and hat
pins. Moat beautiful little enameled affaire, either the
head of a cock or a perfect pheasant in miniature, are
shown mounted on long pins or on short clasp plna for
fastening one'a veila. The colore used In these are.
simply atunning. and for a while, at least, they will be
a novelty.
There also are metallic luminous feathers, which are
to b seen mounted on forma of different birds, which
are ud aa plna or ornament. These same feathers
are made up Into buckle, odd shaped fliea, and even
into flowers of tropical coloring and curious shapes.
Betide these trimming and little trlflea there are
aome new neck ruches, called the " Chantecler " ruche,
which consists of a three inch band of g!osy feather,
mith drooping tall for one end and ama)!. brilliant col
ered bead at the other. They fasten closely about the
throat, and as the bands themselves a re snaded in fine
lone of greens and blues they ate mure of It as be
. coming, and for any one who aims to appear in the
latert cry will carry out thia ih perfectly.
Tailor made frocks ar the ones that are engaging
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our attention now, and although in these the styles
always are more conservative than for afternoon or
evening gowna, there are aome suggestions to be made.
Serge is still the material most in use and promises
to be so for all tailored costumes for everyday wtar
during the entire summer. The roarae. loosely woven
serge, however, has quite gone out of date, and in its
place la what is known as real English aerge, which is
quite different in weave and texture. They are more
like the old herringbone serge, but Instead of being hard
and unyielding as were those, these new ones are as
soft and pliable as silk. The threads are small and
they are closely woven, but for all that they are de
lightfully supple and moat agreeable to wtar. Some
of the weavea show a basket effect, others are a regular
diagonal, and still others are striped, but all aelf-toned.
Some of the new models are being made without
coats, and in olace of the time honored jacket these
bave regular little sailor blouses, which tuck into the
waistband of the skirts, are finished with braiding, but
tons, pockets, and collar, and are altogether smart and
youthful looking.
I have seen several of this style with skirts plaited
on to a tightly fitted yoke and with a bit of braiding
on them or not, as one pleases. The blouses are made up
over a lining, but there ia a small amount of fullness
cunningly arranged in the front under a fitted belt of
braid and cloth. The necks are made slightly low, as
are the necks of most of the gowns and many of the
eoata this season, and are finished with some flat braid
ing or embroidery and turnover collar of .coarse linen,
heavily embroidered, or of English eyelet work.
The sleeves are larger than during the winter and
show more fullness on the shoulders, and although not
an elbow sleeve, they do not come entirely down to the
wrist, end have for their finish a narrow upturning
ruff and a fiat band of embroidery or English work.
.
For the regulation tailored costumes, which are aa
much of a necessity aa are one's boots and hats, the
short coals are having it all their own way. for abao
lutely none of the long coated models of a year ago are
to be aeen. A few of the new coats are In the style of
th Russian blouse, but shorter and with closer lines.
These lend themselves to a more elaborate style of trim
ming than do any other of this spring's coata. and for
the woman who favora a softer method of dressing
they are certain to be popular. They are all short, how
ever, little below the hips, and what trimming there is
appears in the form of motives down the front or in
loops of braid with ornaments of passementerie.
Sovctauche and Silk
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MODEL FROM ,
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A good deal of attention, too. is paid to the belts
of these ooats, and when they are not of metal, as they
sometimes are. and most gorgeous, they are of bands
of braid combined with ornaments. The belts also are
worn much closer than they were on the winter ooats,
and everything now is made to look as trim and snug
aa possible.
Other coata show basque effects, plaited, plain, or
undulating, as best suits the figure, and these generally
are put on from the hip seam and reach midway to the
knees. They look Jaunty, and as a rule they are becom
ing, which is as much as can be asked of any outer
garment.
Most of the costs are collarlees, but as these have
disappeared pockets seem to be coming on to take their
place. And they sre real pockets, too. Into which one
might put her hands if she liked and which certainly
would admit of a handkerchief and tiny purse, a lux
ury the average woman has not enjoyed for many sta
ons. They are placed on the coats according to the
figure, so as to give a shortening or lengthening tffept
to it. and are usually elaborately braided or embroi
dered. Frequently these pockets are the only orna
ments on a coat
There is a rumor which will not down that we are
to have satin tailored costumes later in the spring,
and although aa yet none entirely of that material
have appeared I have seen several in which cloth
and satin were combined. The latter has formed the
body of the frock, but ao much of the former haa
been employed in its trimming that they bave quite
lost the effect of satin costumes.
, An especially good one in olive green of a dark
hue had its skirt trimmed with two wide bands of
soft faced cloth, the satin space between being only
aa wide as the upper band. The coat also had cloth
so cunningly combined with it that It was impossible
to regard it as a aatln eoat . It appeared in a wide,
short stole front and back and as deep low set
pockets over the hips, while the entire upper part of,
the sleeves and wide cuffs were entirely of cloth. t
The satin which Is used for these costumes Is dull
faced and Is therefore a pleasant contrast to cloth or
any other woolen material which might be combined
with it.
The long threatened banithment of the petticoat has
not as yet taken place, and from present, indications
this da.nty and attractive article of feminine wear
ing apparel has been granted a new lease of life.
They have, to be sure, been reduced to the smallest
dimensions possible, but Just the same they are ap
pearing in some new models which are every bit as
pretty as the befrilled and beruffled ones which wer4
our delight in former days.
' The latest show a jersey silk foundation which fits
perfectly close as far aa tha knees, for the satin
sun ray plaited skirt of last season Is now con
sidered too ample. This Jersey foundation is finished
with a shaped flounce of liberty satin or with one
of satin nlnon which is put on with wide shallow box
plaits. The edges of thee flounces show flat puff
ings, sometimes of the same material or of chiffon
or net colored to the same shade.
Others have ' a deep fringe of narrow rlhbon or
chenille put on at the top of the flounce and hanging
to within an inch or two of the bottom over the puffs.
These are pretty, quite oressy. and lasting.
A charming model In a wash skirt is of china silk
of a good quality and made with the usual close fit
ting top. From the knees falls a scant flounce of the
same silk bordered with a printed design of roses
and leaves done In the natural shades, and Just below
this is a tiny frill of lace.
A similar one which I saw lately had the stamped
border put on to the flounce in panels, each edged
about with a narrow knife plaiting of illk, and the
effect was lovely. Stamped and printed silks used in
this manner have just the appearance of much of the
painted work which bas been so fashionable on chif-.
fons and other soft fsbrlca. and as it is guaranteed to
wash perfectly it ahould enjoy a great deal of popu
larity. ;
Generally speaking lingerie Is of the finest linen, of
the most exquisite kind, some of it costing aa much as
S a yard, but linen batiste is also greatly used, at
about a flffh of the cost Cotton batiste la also em-
ployed and miu:h of this is attractive.
Colored ribbons in any kind of undergarments are
quite out of date, aud ultra elegance demands noth
ing but white satin. Uany fashionable women have
discarded chemises for white silk combinations, on .
account of the desired slimness, bu th latest
chemises are almost as close fitting as combinations,1
being made seamed into the figure. The best model
Is empire with lace running up and down and fas
tened on tne shoulders with ribbons. They are all
decollete, and the lace trimming around the netk
lontinues below tha bust. A deep but scant lacs
ruffle finishes the bottom,' and 'instead of the usual
beading three small puffs Join the flounce. .
Corset covers are most elaborate and all fasiea
in the back, an Inconvenient model, as by no poasi
blllty ran one do thein up oneself. The basque shape
is no longer considered the prettiest, but the flnis.i is
now always at the waist, a wide bcadlcg belns- used
with a tiny lace frill below.
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