THE OMAIIA SUNDAY BEE: APRIL 10. 1010.
WRAPS TO MATCH THE COWX
One of the Season's Notions in Modish.
I)rc'.
EVENING WEAR IS IMPORTANT
BED THE DOMINANT COLOR
Hats and Plumes Shown by Omaha Milliners
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COTDAH FAVORS HIETUKBAS S . . -s'-0 - CX r-- V 1 e"
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Bold Combinations of Brilliant Mtdp
Atfvctvd t'arlooa Saadlas
EaipIoed In Trim- ,
mine
Tork women aonnpd their apiing
hata earlier than unual this year not be
came climatic condition wero mure fa 01
able, but Eaater falla earlier than usual,
And perhaps because many sprint; hats are
velvet faced and present hardly any sug
geatlon of airiness.
' An usual, turbans had first call, although
not by any means to the exclusion of large
hapos. The blcorn Is the most popular In
medjum-prloed hat, and for the morn ex
pensive hats the new Bailor and nameless
ploture shapes were snapped up.
. There has been a most pronounced favor
itism shown for red In Its clear and more
brilliant tone, and up to the tlnio of our
t gouiJI 10 press me cnaniecier riazu mis
t not abated. While roosters appear wliole
on some of the more ultra hals, the mujor
' Ity of the women are content with only the
hoed or tall, or aometlmes head and tail,
as the decoration for their Kaster hat.
. Pheasant tails are In great demand. Thvjse
are often used with the rooster's head,
and are considered smarter than the coque
feather, which has 'been In evidence all
winter. The golden hen pheasant was the
object of the lordly Chanteclers affection
In Rostand's barnyard drama, so that It Is
but fitting that her plumage should share
In the honor awarded her mate by the
sartorial world. Very gorgeous are the
coloring of some of these pheasant feath
ers, for In them we find repeated the many
colors peculiar to Persian embroideries and
materials, which are, as we know, enjoying
great popularity.
Brlhtness of the Offerings.
Draperies of cashmere, silk and" chiffon
are one of the . salient features of the
month, remarkable for the brightness of Its
millinery offerings. Bold Indeed are some
of the combinations of color affected. B.ue
and red, both In every strong bright
hades, make a favorite combination, and
these shades, by the way, are the two
leading colors. Blue Is good in every
hade from marine to French blue, and
while up to the present . chantecler and
other vivid reds have' been the only reds
considered, a deeper note is struck with
the Introduction of Van Dyke red. which
bids fair to be well liked, therefore popular.
There have been comparatively few all
bdaok haU sold this season, but there are,
. ef course, stunning blaok hats mtde. bright
j with flowers or colored ostrich, and a very
' large percentage of hats are faced with
black straw or velvet. ' Quantities of black
malln as used for the wide-spreading
; wired bows that are placed across the back
1 of the largest shapes, or arranged' In a
fan-like shape, or a chou on the turban
: and toque. Then, too, so many coronets
' are made of maUne plaited or laid Into
' folds, which are woven basket fashion, j
Wa.lt nnnawnB mallna .r.Hllll, fl.w.aTB OP.
alio used, and recently the Idea of putting
a single layer of malln over the entire hat
has been noted, the roallne being in self
or contrasting color, as. the designer sees
fit. Persian chiffon and French crepo Is
used this way, too, although more often
puton with somi; fullness;.
Changeable taffeta Is a material to be
reckoned with this season, particularly In
naore coiorlngs. Wide taffeta ribbon Is
well liked but the ribbon most In demand
la velvet. In black and the fashionable col
ors. There are many noveltlea In ribbons,
and the colored backed, velvet ribbons may
be put In this category,
Lce Is growing In favor, but there are no
(runspnrent effects, the lace always being
"d over straw. There are novelties in
quells, citbochons and buckles made of
narrow valcnclennea . lace. It. Is chantlly
lace that Is the prime favorite, and black
Is used over white and highly colored
straws.
The Pounlarltr of tsc and Net.
Laoe 1 being used more and more In
millinery, and net never was stronger.
Black net and leace load. M aline and
quare'inesh silk net are more popular
than the figured variety, but that, too. Is
used. There Is not tbe amount of gold or
liver used for .hat. trimming, that . there
haa been this winter, but for costumes the
tinsel effects are a Oil very strong. The en
tire aliapa is clouded with net, lace of Per
sian chiffon, usually stretched, without ful
ness, over the entire hat.
The newest large hata are quite flat and
are worn at a pronounced angle, which per
mits of the introduction of some trimming
on the under brim. One moss rose and
bud Is a favorite - under-brlra ornamenta
tion. A very smart Van Dyke red hemp
pressed hat, with sunken crown and rolling
brim, had for Its trimming a single moss
rose laid on the upper brim edge, a little to
ths flat of the front. The under-brlm was
i draped with Persian silk to within about
two inches of the edge, an end of the silk
resting on the hair.
rerelajs Blnbost and Vint- Oowna
Persian ribbon is used for bows and to
drape a flat crown. A bronse straw hat
has two bands of slx-tnch Persian ribbon
drawn from the left undar-brim. at the
heads! se,' over the brim and diagonally
across the crown, where It ended at the
rixht brim, being held by a moss rose. As
"the shape was a wide, very flat one, and
fihs trimming was applied flat, this model
may serve as an example of the new pan
cake hat.
There is a great demand for colored vel
vet ribbon In alt widths from one Inch.
Red, blue and green, are the leading shades.
Ribbon drawn over the brim and bowed
on the under-brlm is a feature. Bows sre
also mad of piece goods, chiffon and
' short-nap velvet being chosen.
Pendant Ornaments and BacWla.
In the ornament line, the pendant or ear
ring variety Is very strong. Tailored hats
how large buckles of straw and Persian
aUk. The silk Is usually accordeon pleated,
and the straw coarse tuscan Is used
to outline the buckel. The straw ornament
is always an attractive decoration for the
hat that has a scarf drapery. A goodly
number of plateaux are used, not only in
' the manufacturing of toques, but for mak
ing crowns.' A Very smart wlde-brlinmed
black chip hat had a mad crown ef two
' yeddo plateaux, the lower one a dull rose
and the" upper black. These were W raped
to show the rose In a wide band across
the front and In a wing-Ilk arrangement
at the left lu, there being no other trlra
tnlrg. It was predicted by us several mouths
SfQ that it goln- to bo a big sailor
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No. 1, Pennell Millinery
Stores, Leghorn hat, with shaded roses
frame, velvet facing, white willow
straw frame, bound, draped with wh
year, The style In sailors seems to be in
no way bounded by tradition. For the roost
part, they are huge affairs of Jumbo pine
apple and. other .coarse braids, . although
later on the white mllan sailor will no
doubt gain In prominence. Flat, roll, and
mushroom sailors are being offered. The
mushroom hat Is a decided protection
against the sun's rays, and for this reason
fit ds ready purchasers. The rolled-brim
sailor Is really the newest, ' and for that
reason will probably lead. .Some of the
flat sailors are faced and banded with
color. Velvet ribbon Is used to band many
of the newest sailors, vivid colors having
the preference. Trimmed sailors for early
wear are strong. April Millinery Trade Re
view. WILL JUDGES CONSIDER IT?
A Busrarrstlon from Bur ' Bust
Concerning; Service on
the Jury.
The published story of a millinery mer
chant of New York" being fined $110 for
not appearing in ' one- of the courts when
his name was called to serve as a Jury
man has caused no little comment in busi
ness circles, and some people consider It a
huge Joke; but It is no Joke for a business
man to arrive at his) office In the morning
and find that there Is a great amount of
work awaiting his attention, which he
must leave In order to answer a Jury sum-'
mons.. The Judge upon the bench may be
an hour in reaching the court; the clerk,
who may consider himself the most im
portant Individual of the states may put
obstacles In the way of the business man
reaching the Judge but all this does not
count. If he has not "seen" a friend, who
"seen the clerk" and gets him off. he Is
as much of a prisoner as the culprit who
is to be tried. Of course, it is a mistake
to indorse the' Jury summons with the
words, "Too busy to serve"; that's turning
your back on the august tribunal. . But
what a farce our Jury system Is anyway.
We hope this Is not contempt of court.
Millinery Trade Review.
GIVE THE GIRLS A SHOW
nnannamnanw
Haanal Training for Boys, Why ot
Millinery Training for
Girls.
Manual training In our public schools Is
a most excellent Innovation and every
effort should be made by the public at
largo to Increase Its efficiency, but when
pupils of millinery classes are to do work
for The public at . cut prices, under ths
supervision of Instructors and during
lesson periods, It Is carrying the scheme of
making young women sif-suitaln!ng a little
too far. The object of manual training
schools is to teach millinery as the means
of obtaining a livelihood, ' not to . turn
classes into competition with retail mil
Unary entabllshments by conducting busi
ness at the public expense. If some of our
cities establishing manual training clashes
cannot conduct .them without forcing the
puptls to sek business from outsiders In
order to defray the expenses of the school,
tlisy almuld desist r wait for an approprla-
company, brown straw and silk velvet bow aigrettes; No. 2, Kllpatrick, Wh
and black velvet ribbon; No. 4, Merschelm, hand-made . tuscon trimmed
plumes and aigrettes; No. 6, The Bennett company, beautiful yellow willow
ite chiffon, black velvet ornament.
tiofi by the public, for that purpose. Mil
liners have a hard time as it is,, without
having to compete against civil authorities,
who advertise the. making and trimming of
hoadwear at cut rates. Millinery Trade
Review.
SUNDAY WOMEN
MARY MACLANE
AT HOME
The "Montana Bnahkirtsef f " Breaks
Ont with Unla.no Remt
, nlsences.
Mary Maclane of Butte, Mont,, has come
to life again.
It seems a long time since anything has
been heard of her that time tbe perplexing
creature wrote her story of herself that
startled America. After her first book,
written at 19, which won for the author
the name of the "Montana Bashklrtaeff,"
full of assertions she was a genius, that
she was searching for a "dear devil" who
would introduce the desired "scarlet" Into
her life, she cam to Manhattan and wrote
Impressions of what she called "the mys
terious east" for the World.
After that Mary went to Boston and en
tered college. She wrote another book
called "Annabel Lee," which did not rival
her first book in popularity. She was heard
from at long intervals, and now she has
turned up again in Butte, Mont. She Is
writing a "Second Story of Margaret Mac
Lane" for the Butte Evening News, and
from It one gathers various Interesting
Items of the seven years since Mary first
demanded the attention of the public.
Right away one reads that Mary hasn't
i been wastlna her time, but In the Kurds of
popular chanson of yesterday, she's "been
learning something .every day."
I left Butte crude. Innocent and Inex
perienced," she' writes. "I return to it In
the role of a frazzled old rounder. New 1
York haa been my abiding place these
many, many moons, and It's been. In some
ways my undoing." Concerning New York,
she writes:
I know New York as I know Butte,
Mont., for exactly what it Is. I have no
roseate illusion about It. It has lodged
mo not as a transient bird of passage, but
as one of the 4.000.000 who call It home. I
well know that It Is no place . to go . to.
gather lilies. It's paving stories are the
paving stones of hell. . But on them walk
people who are more wpgdt-rtul than. Ulles.
And the lesson it, teaches Is the adamant
truth itself, 'it's the subtle' freemasonry
among the millions, the silent recognition
and understanding of each other's human
ness and the half suggestion' of Iriitrnacy
that one feels toward all or any of the per
sons one nvets and passes on Broadway
It's that that' all the charm and enchant
niirt of it. And. too, . It's. tluU . together
nith the glitter of' the white way, that Is
ths most alluring and - treacherous and
annihilating ef all the attributes of the
vampire. In truth, it is that quality that
la 'the vampire. For' It's' Intimacy ' with
human beings 'arid all that It betokens the
, exchanging of bit of on' personality for
bit of another', ', the ldloayncracies i of
friendship, th nerve-racking experience of
being in Jove, the hypnotic effect, of .on
pi tonality upon another, th utter throw
, ,
ing to the winds of all one's reserves of
body and soul ' before the compelling
magnetisms of some snd the lesser intoxi
cation of knowing one' own domination of
others It Is all these things that devour
flesh and blood and nerve. They eat their
way from the outer wall that guards the
crude human being to the Inmost keep of
the citadel. One's loves and friendships
have effects on one's slim young body and
one's wayward mind . that are mors
malignant than cocaine and more subtle
titan abstnthe. But it's all so exquisitely
and poetically and seductively worth while.
What a picure of youth It is In tbe Mar
tin at 4 in the afternoon! a picture of
tired, tired youth, women like crushed Ulles
or half-wilted Jonquils. They are all In the
clutch of the vampire. The mark of the
vampire is on their delicate rouged and
faintly-drooping Hps, In, the glint of their
all-knowing eyes, upon tneir insolent brows
and in the movements of their slender
hands. . Their hearts and bodies are wery
from the ceaseless glitter of the world and
from their endless pursuit of pleasure a
pleasure like an ignis fatuus that is always
a little way beyond, that never, never
waits. I have myself seen It around
corners, behind doors, at the top of flights
of stairs always beyond, never in my
hands or by my side. I have sat, times,
In the Martin, with tome delectable' com
panion, twirling the stem or my absinthe
glass with my thumb and finger and with
my chin on my hand, and looked about at
the gay-hearted company and wondered If
they Knew they had nevtv caught up with
the. ignis fatuus pleasure, and nev-i' would
and If they did that The, flavor of the
grape would become wormwood on their
lips,', snd the daylight shudoAed, and the
music stilled. f 1
WORK WITH SILK MILL GIRLS
Experiences Anions; the Workers In
the . Big Mills of Penn
sylvania. In Harper'a for April, Miss Florence San
ville of the Consumers' league of Philadel
phia tells of her experiences as a worker
In one of the Pennsylvania silk mills. Miss
Sanvllle and a friend, Miss Cochran, ob
tained work as ordinary mill hands In
urdr. to make, a thorough study of the
conditions In the mills.
"The evil of prolonged hours of labor
for growing girls are Intensified when this
labor Is performed at night. Night work
after a given' hour Is prohibited by law for
all women in certain Industries In a .few
states. Massachusetts, fur Instance, re
quires that no woman shall work in a
textile fautopy after ( p. m. Other states
protect all girls up to a certain age from
any night employment as In Ohio, where
no girl under ,18 years of age Is allowed
to work after p. m. Many states , have
no' restrictive ' legislation on Ibis subject.
Pennsylvania, four year ago, forbade all
children under IS. with the exception of
boys, . In certain . kinds of occupation, to
work for wagts sfter p. m.. and the
legislature of IMS has Included air girls be
low li years In this protected class. But
ite straw frame, dark brown facings, white plumes; No. 3, Brandeis
with light blue ribbon and ostrich aigrette: No. 5, Haydcns, blnck straw
straw frame, black velvet bow and and ribbon; No. 7, Misses Riley, white
this law, which sounds so well on paper,
has up to the present proved but a lame
one on account of the loose requirements
of the age certificates; how lame Miss
Cochran and I saw most clearly on the
evening when we first applied for work
on the night shift.
"As we went into the factory our passage
was blocked by a return stream of girls,
and the announcement that 'the boiler was
burst and there -was no work that night.'
In the outpouring throng, jubilant at their
release, were so many Bhort skirts that it
might well have been a group of school
girls, dismissed late by their teacher. We
naturally fell In with the girls whose way
led In the same direction as ours, and we
walked down the railroad track together.
" 'Yer never worked nights, did yer?' was
the first question put to us. We confessed
not. 'Y'U git more fer it but it's terrible
hard.' I asked about the hours and found
that thoy were from G:30 In the evening
until 6 In the morning, with a half-hour
at midnight. 'They keep the doors locked
so that no one can't rit (int-tiv n
hused ter.'
"A few of the girls left the track to cut
across a nearby lot. "We're goln" to git
blueberries aforo It gits dark,' they called
out as they went away.
" 'I most always go- berry tit' when I
leave the mill In the mornln's,' one of our
companions vouchsafed to us.
" 'Oh no I can't sleep none when I leave
the mill. I go to bed after dinner, when
I've helped my ma some,'
' 'It's not so bad at nights when you
gits used to It,' another encouraged us.
'When yt-r ends it all up the boss lets you
He on tltie floor and go to sleep. 'Moat t
of the girls takes a nap about 3 o'clock,
and he don't say nuthln'.' "
YMt.rr't"C
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Spmng aiillinery
-5
" . i' r-' .e'
REMEDY FOR LONG HAT PIN
a rlnlned to Cover the
Point of Mere Man's
Protest.
There is an excuse for titer introduction
In the Chicago Board of Aldermen of an
ordfnance limiting the length of hat pins
now worn by women to hold thslr hats on
their heads. There is an element of danger
In the long hat pin, which women, as a
rule, do not appreciate, but which men, who
are forced into too close proximity to
women wearing up-to-date hats, do appre
ciate. And many and loud are the com
plaints against the use of the hat pin of
extreme length. But what are women to
do? The old-style hat pin U useless. Ths
size of the present hat crown necessitates
a long pin to pass through the crown and
the coiffure in order that the hat may be
maintained In position. There 1 a remedy,
however, which American manufacturers
have not as yet Introduced to any extent,
and that Is the German and French idea of
attaching a metal end, of knob, to the
point of the hat pin (much the Kame style
as the button on the end of fencing foils),
which takes away that element of danger
to tho long pin, and at the same tlmo Is an
additional ornament to the hat. While
fashion will not permit tho use of "strings"
to tie the hat under the chin, or thu reduc
tion of the size of the hat to admit of the
wearing of short hat pins, and Incidentally
changing the style of the coiffure, the only
alternative to cutting down the length ot
the pin to conform to the Chicago alder
man's Idea, as well as the idea of men gen
erally, is the use of patent hat fasteners or
the knob above referred to.-Ml lit ery Trade
Review.
Millinery
Hairdresslng
Hair Goods
Beauty Massage
Manicuring
E. BCFNAM'S BEAUTY CREAKS Use. ExcluEirelr.
Our patrons tell us that they receive
the moat satisfactory service here of
this sort, that ha been Introduced in this
city. Eastern artist and expert give all
treatment.
Phone Douglas I71S for appointment.
Riley Sisters Studio
317 South 16th Street.
Coats Widely tnrlril In ( Imrnrlrr and
l.lne Carious t nmMnstloim of
Materinls end Color Charm
of the I'vrnlng Coat.
NKW YOI'.K. April :'.-Onre more that
Proadnay np nlni.'. Tlie fl ock snd coat
contiinnH i.f dvcsKV din meter were In a
el. ism nf their own. ami It .cems a pity not
to offer more thu't tl ree sketches of thew
models, but the three will Rive some slight
idea of the variety fo bp found In this
pro im p of diet s .
Chiffon wraps, en suite with frocks are
enormously modish and vary widely In line
and character. 1Oiitf lraie1 coats or
cloaks on the order of (he Agnes model In
otrotni of the grayish crocus tone are
unlined or lined with chiffon In while or
a sliudo blending Willi the coat and are
often admlrablo in line, offering oppor-' ,
amities for soft and subtle draping, though
the general effeet of the lines must be long
and rliiiKiMK.
Theso coats may bi trimmed In em
broideries, usually of self-tone and heavy .
enough to weight down tho filmy folds.
Or they may have trimmings of self-color
atin or other silk, of lace dyed to match
the chiffon or of dull metallic, thread. Or
pet haps quaint little old fashioned rurhlngs
of silk or fringe, wide or narrow may be
used for trimming.
Black coats of this type are worn over
colored or white froeks and there are
lovely dark chiffon cloaks, too, In the
greens nnd tho vivid deep blue, and the
urays. while for less sober wear and even-,
lug ui.e are ravishing enattr and draped
capes of ehlffon gtuize, etatnlne, tulle, etc.,
in tho llRhter colorings and often In curious
combinations which would be ghastly If
they fell Just short of being consummately
successful. One such clonk Is in one of ,
the melting ripe peueh pinks and has for
trimming embroidery of periwinkle blus
tones with Just a touch of black eatln.
And apropos of pink cloaks, one of the"
loveliest evening coats wft have seen is in
the new shrimp pink, r revolt e, a delicious
shade, it is mado of some supple light
satin finished crepe and has a lining of
black tulle. The shape Is the modified
Japanese loose sleeve and coat cut In one, ,
but without exaggerated armhole.' Sleeves
and entire coat aro bordered with wide,
flat turned-back bands of black tulle, one
thickness, handsomely embroidered In
silver. The raised design In silver' against
the background of pink gleaming Boftly
through the veiling black la indescribably
effective.
Tulle or chiffon coats of another type, '
simple of line, straight, narrow, unlined,
are made up In black or the deep blues for
general wear over white frock or may
bo en suite with a frock, as 'in the elab-.
orate yet severe Be.er frock sketched for
the large cut on the opposite page. We
have Been one chic emerald green coat of
this typo which worn over white would bo
softened enough not to eem aggressive)
and would be uncommonly effective with
the right frock and hat.
But to return to our mutton, or to tho
coat and frock costumes of that pft cited
opening. The two models grouped with
the draped chiffon coat of the Agnes cos
tume were from Callot Soeurs and were,'
of their kind, as attractive as, anything
we have seen this season. Color had as
usual much to do with their success, but
line and detail were admirable, too, and
there was a striking contrast between the
girdled coat hinting at Russian influence
and the cut-away taffeta, with Its turned
back fronts and its odd little trimming of
self-braiding, all a fugitive echo from th
courts of the Louis.
The color scheme of the costume with
belted coat would have to be seen to be
appreciated. The frock is of cachemlre
chiffon, that is chiffon of cachemlre or
Persian design and Is In two exquisite
shades, one of the new sofe grayish lav
enders or violets and a delicious chamois
which blends perfectly with the violet,
The skirt slightly below the knees and
held by a scarf of violet silk. The girdled
coat Is of a peculiarly soft corded silk In
tho gray violet, with hand embroidery lit
silk and In soutache matching the silk In
color. f
One of the new and delicate shades of
nattier blue was used for the model with
cutaway coat, Ihe frock being in blue chif- '
fon effectively embroidered In white, while
the coat was of taffeta. We have seen
this same Callot model in a dull old pink
and In leaf green, arid the coat In partic
ular has found very ready acceptance.
A largo number of the handsome car
riage coats, evening coats, etc., take the
form of a draped cape rather than a coat,
having no armholcs or merely an opening
In the drapery by way of apology for a
sleeve. These garments at their best are
extremely graceful and are made In chif
fon, tulle, lnce, etamlne and almost all of
the soft silks.
The satin finished crepes which are made
In innumerable weaves are favorite oloak
materials and very handsome and service
able cloaks are fashioned from such ma-
(Contlnu-sd on Page Five.)
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