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THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MAKC3I 20, 1910.
Buddha's Greatest Monument Built at Rangoon Over Eight Holy Hairs
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OlT THE PA&OM PLiTFORTT...
Copyila:h. 1910. hy Frunk O. Carpntfr
.A.NUOON, 1H10. (Special I'orre-
R.
SHWE DAG ON PiGOD
look mall ("am this point. It Is big enoufh
to rover a good iled house, and it La
spr.nnVncu of The Ilee.) Come studded with Jewels. Miten to the golden
wlih me this morning for a look
at the Hhwe Daon Paffodii. the
holiest shrine of th Ruddhlst
bells whloh hang around Its rim, tinkling
in the breeze. The sound Is mingled with
the singing of birds and the rustling of
IJio.WO when It was made,
a generation ago.
something like
Kree C.I rt to Buddha.
This groat structure and all Its sur
roundings were formed by tinforred gifts
from the worshlpera of Buddha. The labor
upon it waa voluntary, and when the king
sent out a notice that It was to be, built,
money and jewels flowed In to him from
all parts of Burma. The monument la kept
up by the free-will offerings of the people.
It has been plated with gold leaf again
and again, until the brick and stucco of
religion. It Is the mecca of one- nalm la w.a Th.i i.mkAiu .v
" ' ' o. u-h uilli.l Clta l,UOl I1IMIO II11U1
"""" 4,1 ""aiiKinn. and the nine million fol
lowers of the prophet who live here In
Burma consider it the most sacred spot
pon earth. The paoila stands on a little
hill on the banks of the Irawadl river In
this rid-hot town of Hanaoon. The sun
here In Uriidly at noonday, p.nd we get up
with the irons. 'I heir cawing begins t e
fore day, ai.d the light Is Just coming
through the palm trees as we sit down In
the hotel bid rooms to our tea, toast and
Jam before starting out.
A black turbaned Hlidu with a rat like
Indian pony carries us In his gharry
' .-.... ..i iviiikoum. e which is us maae contain more of the pre-
pass half-nuked coolies on their way to clous metal than the best ore of our big
work; Jostle the street water works, con- western mines.
Istlng of bare-logged , men, who. with One of the last king, of Burma once made
buckets, are sprinkling the roads; turn a vow that he would give hi weight In
out for the carts hauled by humped bull- gold to the monument. After he had taken
ocks carrying great loads, and at last pass a bath, and scrubbed himself down to tho
Su?" .v ectlon of bungalows. In lowt possible number of pound, he
which the better classes of the city live, Jumped on one side of the scales and plied
tnd are dropped at the foot of Fagoda hill, up gold to the other. It took Just enough
to make It cost him 46,000. With the money
more srold Hn,,rt. n..
now 7 o'clock this bright Sunday ... .v.. " " . " . uwer
j , . - ,- " iv.oivto a irnsn coat,
and the worahlpere are out In t k... t 7
" " "'" oiiv-fi ui rrom the old. Th
enuw i-iuion are going in and out of the
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boy. XiSKr..
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1 via rtftw
A ONE OF THt CHAPE1S
SHOWING THE. CARVING.
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log of wood. According to Buddhist beaflflo look upon hla face, evidently be
saying me sins or the worst man are a
thousand times less than those of tho best
woman that ever lived. Nevertheless there
are numerous convents all over this coun
try and nuns ore everywhere found.
We see many priests worshiping about
the pagoda. Here comes one now; lie
must be sixty years old and hla brown facn
Is withered, his neck shrunken and his thin
legs seem to totter. He is clsd only In
two strips of bright yellow cotton, his right
thoulder and arm being bare. In his If ft
hand Is a pair of old sandals, the sweaty
outlines of his foot marked on the yellow
leather, and in his right he cnrili'S a small
bunch of rosea. He kneels on the bricks
with the tropical sun beating down upon
his shaved head, and holds up the flowers
as he prays. "After a time he gin's to a
chapel and lays them on the knees of a
great golden Buddha.
There are many family parties praying,
men, women and children kneeling together.
They all act as though their religion was
Moving that he has acquired mertL
About the Shrines.
Ijiter on we make a tour of the shrlnest
There are a hundred or more, all ending
In spires of gold far below the spire of
this great golden mountain. All are Beau
tifully carved, and some are walled with,
colored glass, so sot In golden wires that
when the sun shines they show the many
splendors of the peacock's tall. Th
liuddhaa within htive offerings of flowtra,
fruit and rice lying before them. At rom
candles are burning and on their laps)
offerings of brocade, and Bilks have buen
placed. We are touched by the sentiment
shown by the worshipers. They are of
all clafcHe.4 and conditions; some poor,
sick and sad, but must are rich and well
dressed and apparently Joyful.
All seem self-respecting, and it wo")IU b
unfair to ay thai they j not m earnest
in their religion. I am told that tie Bur
mese are naturaujr religious. They ar
charitable. M.n fi VL' h A n ftvA r fris Ha sa sii i r-tvli i si
one of rejoicing. They laugh and smoke he spende It In fticUng resthouse or place
AH tViahtx lliatr tn anil nvnarvu Tlw.w
along the toad where travelers can have a
cn their way to and from prayers. They
hold their heads high and are evidently
proud of both Buddha and Burma.
Morn In a; at the fthrlnr.
It Is
morning
Superstitious Worshipers.
e whole mighty monument
has hardly a tarnish apot on It. It Is covered
with gold, purer than that In an American
gold eugle, and It shines like a new wed
ding ring. The lower part of the structure
entrance find peddlers of flowers Incense T ? " 1B terraced
..V " oi nowers, incense around M ,t ,,,, upward. -.,,-.1,,, mi.e
test houses along the way. Each carries
a begging bowl for the rice offerings which
are freely given. We see scores of worship
ers on their way to the shrine, and at the
and candles to be offered to the gods over
head.
Ws can see the great pagoda long before
we reach it. Its golden spire kisses the
sky 600 feet above the spot where we get
down from our gharry. With the hill upon
which It stands the monument Is as tall
as the great marble shaft erected to Wash
ington on the banks of the Potomac; and
as we look up we are datled by tho blaze
of gold upon it. and the wonderful struc
tures which form Its base. The sides of the
hill are covered with carved buildings, each
and often plated with gold, running clear a native king about seventy years ago. real. Peo this woman knee-ling here at tnf
around the great monument. These are on When the English took the country they right. Her pink silk gown Is wrapped
the average, I should say, something like decided to carry It off to London as a tightly about her body, and her bare feet
thirty feet high, ending In spires plated trophy. Tho got the bell down as far as stick out behind. She Is rising and falling 3Ut what is this coming around the
with gold. They are much like chapels, the Irawadi river, but In attempting to nd counting her beads aa she sings out corner from the other side of the great
and Inside each of them Is a sitting statue load It on a vessel It fell Into the stream, her prayers. She has flowers In her hands, golden spire? It Is a middle-aged man.
of Buddha, often of more than life siae. and their engineers could not raise It and as we watch she rises and lays them alternately rlslnt and falllnir He wtars
again, upon tnts, some Kurmans came cn me lap oi a uuaana in one or me
up a.iiu unr.cu ii nicy misui uj ma ueu aark as thut of a negro. - He Is a
if they could put It back In Us place. The On the other side of us are three Bud- Budddhlst from India and he muat have
English, with a sneer, granted their re- dl lst nuns. They are dressed In plain something of the Hindu in his religion,
quest, having no Idea that they could sue- yellow cotton and have little more than a for he Is prostrating himself on the brick
ceed. The Burnians went at once to work, sheet of this stuff wrapped around them, platform and measuring the distance
They used no machinery, but by means Their heads are shaved close. Thev hol.1 arm inH th a I) a trad n with liln hulf nnli f
ing a court several hundred feet wide be- 0f thousands of men working together they out cloths, upon which the people throw form, saying a prayer every time he
The monument stands over r.rt. ,i. . "1 " .7"l,.J v. " VT ,7. ,1"ea lno " 1 "P " nas ana oiienngs as mey pass sy. r.acu nun nas spreads himself
. . . .. "'" "" "'8. "omo oi wiucn nave reclining nuaonas carried t back to where It now stands on a rofiarv about her neck, and aha nll her
c.B,.i iianH wnicn ion or more ree In lenath. anrl at th t j.
- rnvua
head, and back at one corner Is the great Buddhist
and smaller and ends In the spire
KUht Holy HsJrTf the Prophet
Some of these statues nre gold plated,
others are of silver, and not a few of
alabaster or marble. They hug the base
of the mighty pagoda.
Third BlB-aest lie II of the World.
Hound the edges of tho platform, leav-
oool drink of water. They hava spotted th
whole country with pagodas; they are to be
found In every town and village and on al
most every hill. There are monasteries
everywhere, and the country baa more re
ligious monument, perhaps, than ajiy other
of its slae in the world. A oensus taken
some years ago showed that there are more
than 15.000 monasteries and tKat Rurnnm.
turban and waistcloth and hla skin Is ha4 on the avemtso one for every nlnety.
of Buddha
the prophet pulled from his
f,-.o w.e iwo Burmese brothers who bell, which Is said to be the third largest
planted them here. That was many years of its kind In the world. It weighs forty
ago. and since then the followers of two tons, and It would take something like
Hill.
beads as she prays.
Buddhists at rrayers.
1 1 . w I . i, . . . , - a uui iTi u f piivii o ' v 1 1 iur jinuuq (fir
fir-J r j. ? wor8hl' Thft hore8 to haul it if It could be put Urm and have a' look at the people
v.rLfr V. ,hC Bl, 588 upon wnN"" ,nd dra"' over the roads, prayers. All the worshiping Is done In t
years before Christ was born, and the
of which Is a Jewel, anda gorgeous covered Pr""nt fuctura wus already In place 100
Women unci Their Sins.
But let us stroll around the pagoda plat- The Buddhist religion takes but small sc
at count of women, and the rules are such
he that a monk cannot reside under the same candle. He picks It up and then pros
trates himself once more on his face and
out with his face to
the bricks. He lies flat on the floor and
puts hla hare arms as far out as he can
reach, stretching every muscle from the
ends of his toes to the lips of his fingers.
He presses his fingers hard upon the
bricks and marks his limit of reach with
a candle. He then rises and walks to l his
avenue or gold, with a rltlgo roof upheld
by white marble pillars, leads by stair
ways to the platform above. The platform
Itself covers fourteen acres, or aa much
space as the Pyramid of Cheops, and It
Is from this that the gold spire starts.
Hut first let us make our way up
thi.gh the arcades. There Is no road on
earth more curious than that which leads
to the shrine. Its stone floor has through
out the ages been polished by the bare
feet of the thousands who have tramped
up to pray. The worshipers take off their
sandals as they come to the entrance, and
walk on with them In their hands. We
foreigners kep our shoes on and ml with
the crowd. As we go In we hear the birds
sing. Thousands of them have inada nests
In the carvings, and they fly back and
forth through the arcades and about the
Pagoda from daylight to dark. At night
they roost on the gold. According to the ,ge
law.
it is so thick trim the yellow-gowned opi n. There are scores of men, women roof with a nun. He cannot travel in a
priest who acts as my guide can Just and children kneeling on the bare bricks, cart or boat with a woman, and onu of the
touch the inside of the rim with his Their hands are folded and tUoy look up books of the low says that he must not
fingers while the outside, rests In the at the spire as they pray. Thpy are not touch her. and that If any woman, even
crook of his elbow. He strikes It with n i,irinr ti,
smull pagoda about the base of the great deer horn and the sound booms out on the nor the images, but come to this holy place must not offer his hand to help her out.
.T.D 'agv., n.iu uiin nicie are nunarens air,
years before Boston was founded.
Today the Buddhists consider It an a
...urn CTuie iinnrpon 10 neaven to erect a
to renew their vows, to think upon Buddha He may hold forth a stick, but If she
of little tenyles, most exquisitely carved This bell was presented to Buddha by and repent of their sins. Their worship Ih grasps It he muat Imagine he' Is pulling at or four
prays, using the candle to mark the spot
where his finger tips rest. He goes fast,
the whole circuit of the puguda being cov
ered In less than an hour. Wo watch him
at the end of his Journey. As ho com
pletes the circuit he lies praying for three
minutes, and then rises with a
Military Career of General Charles Morton U. S. A.
A
FTER. having served his country Iment specially mentioned in the report of service in Arizona his regiment was or- bands, covering the country by his seout-
bj a soldier fur nearly fifty
years, still active and virile,
Brigadier General Charles Mor
ton nas placed on the retired
list of the United StateR A Pill V
Friday, March 18, with the r.ink of bslgadier
general, because of his having reached the
the battle for conspicuous bravery, three dered to the Departmet of the Platte In from the Arkansas and Republican
were the officers of Morton's company, Lieutenant Morton taking station at Fort rivers .n the smith almost to the Yellow-
and Charley Morton himself was recom- D. A. Russell, Wyo. Indian troubles broke stono on the north, having numerous en-
inended by his regimental commander for out with the Sioux near the White Cloud counters with th hohtlles. He made an
a congressional medal of honor for dis- agency, now the town of Crawford, Neb., exploration from Sidney, Neb., and located
tinguibhed bravery In the battle. and Lieutenant Morton was soon In the tliu road to tho camo of tiooos In 187J
In 1RT5 Lieutenant Morton made a sur
vey of the Black Hills country, which
hud been previously marked "unexplored"
on the maps, and that winter he worked
up his notes Into a map at department
headquarters In Omaha. Hardly had he
reiurnea rrom that duty when he was
limit which bv .v.......... . .mum wi iiiriu wuu ni iiuui ui imuiij. mai is now run iujiiimmhi ana wnicn laier seieciea ana appointed adjutant of the Big
- - - - lu 1 , 1 L MR HO IIU1C IUl1.1 , ' I I in LlillC 1WI I , 1. 1 1 1 " lilt. H I rl It IUUIH IIU1I1 llllf V 1,1 Kirn H Tin . l :,,U'uN,,i., ..v ...i I Tl. u
lT, . , "uumKl reugnm. it is a sin to 'e,tKB.es me efficient, experienced paigns and operations down the Missis-
.i....n iniii nas lire, and the birds me quiciuae and inactivities of sippi, western Tennessee and southeast
know they are In the house of their friend retirement." Missouri snd in the Atlanta campaign of
. . v, ,rn'Ta MoI,on' fl,r ,he two and a lstil. He was discharged September 14.
min. . F S'n"- ? commanJ,r of Department having participated" In the battle, of Love-
wv nrM"'UiJ WS p"" bo0t,", B" ths . M 3"Url- bo,n March ls- Joy1" Station and Jonesboro after hi. term
- x.u.i.ib B,ns wun plugs or layatioga county, Ohio, of enlistment had expired
nearly (our years, aitox th marauding tba Black, tillla.
j. i t-iuumuiiy
I. the Toie. of Zw . mV t h u m b - uescenuant or the early colonial New abandoned the opportunity to make th.
on the is LT Mt cru""W -,Uf'"nU ' 1" autumn of isu March to the Sea. in order to accept a prof-
The c.d?e "s. J TT' lr BUd"h"- c6 7mM,d W",h r" ParW," DavleSS commission In th. Korty-thlrd Mis-
as thin as tie finger of a -year-old baby Ohio his family was a neighbor of the Joseph Mo
to greut cylinders of wax tall . ,,- Oarflel.la. and hl nM.r hrn,h... V ' . ...
rlr s w ho are suin n., .. , . . , t- i m aiissoun, ne oar. y escaped
V:Z,yTZTj e'upers'and " James ,h. Central.a massacre, and found Z
give them over to one of ,V. . i V, tate Invaded by the confederate army.
She smZ with dehgh, at the T''", YTS "."n ""'"T M h'"9 COUnt' wlth
the sins that will be washed awlv ,, V V In' S2. f" dat"' uerl,,M- Ile bd"d P""-
burn, and thanks me pr ' use.y T , ? , ttbna?ly" oun " commission and lent all hi. energies
A llttl. beyond this , are slopped bv a LT , ,. h determination, to Ui. hasty organUatlon of th, local en-
priest with . nlckel-ln-the-slot bo, " .1 . '"' company In rolled militia and started out after the
sround his bare neck bv a . " h"r br"o0 th. .outhern part of guerillas. He .ncountered the noted Bill
I'awc. county. iney took a solemn oath Anderson and his band on Fishing river
of fidelity to th. union, to protect their near the nrem.nl town w,i...'
homes and the union Interests. Charles and succeeded in scattering the band and
Morton was the youngest of four brothers, killing Anderson. This battle restored a
sll of whom entered the union army during lasting peace to northern Missouri,
th. war. Th. horn, guard company was General James Craig, commanding th.
ventually merged into the service as Com- military district, presented youn Morton
pany 1. Thirteenth Missouri Volunteer- in- with one of th. revolver. .
.i s. i - lunrrv aw i. .. . . . .
inrouKN. n is a mass or bright rolora. ' " pu. aio. i ne regiment was Body or Bill Anderson as a recognition of
The Dci rroe we.r the most dellcste pinks. "on c"lled ,nt sctlve service, lata In th. his services In this expedition. Morton wis
yellons a-.l greens. The men have silk ,ummer of WoU and participated In the engaged In several other .xoedltinn. .lit.
en-
sum fall
own oy a sii hit u
has a little brass triangle tied to his right
Index flnrcr .n.f h, u..ii...u . .
- - ..r. uon mis as
he prays, making a sound like a bell. The
passer-by drop coins Into the slot anl
thereby acquire merit and prayers.
I'pon reaching the top of the avenue,
which is about L0O0 feet long, we turn
and look back upon the gay crowd passing
turbu-s is gay as ralnbjw. and the m ' D,ooay le'8 of Lexington, and In which th. militia, with which k. . .m.n
. a MiriuiiM-.ii nnirn makes the dark -"-. compelled to surrender rolled in th. fall of litfi. Utu th.
f a mass
V-nddba's
nass of bright hues.
s -UolaUa
Muaatai
-...-iKiiuinK iorc. of confederates he received an appolatmant to th. Wut
under General Sterling Price. After being Point Military academy at Ui hands of
released from captivity. th. regiment was Major GenwsJ Benjamin T. Loan, to which
somewhat demoralised ma, ,ater pj.. h- nporUd , Jun.
reorganised Into th Twenty-fifth Missouri Upon his grsduatlon In U9 h was as-
Infantry. It was assigned to the western signed to the Third I'nlted States cavalry
armies under General Grant .n t..u .... .-h u.,,. . . ,. ... t.
h.r. ..v .r.r,.nn. .. . ii , - - ... j.,..,a nis
. u K. . ,yKUIIU, jrt ln ,h, blU1, regiD,ent at Fort l.-nlon. New Mexico. II.
half a dozer, b ook, of on. of our cltl.s and of Hhllon. opening that great h.tu was engaged in numerous Indian cam
,h. monum.nt .Jon. ha. at th. b . Morton's colonel and major w.r. killed paig... against th. Apach.s and N.V.-
clicumferenoe of a quarter of a mil.. That and his csptaln and fir., u . . . . V . 7 ' -
, . ..,,..n. .mu . " capiain ana rirst U.uteosjit Joes In Arlsons and N.w Mexico. Afi.r
golden umbr.ll Which you see oa th. spit, aounded. Of the air fl,..- , . . . "r
wwuuucd. iUa an orHcers ef th. r.g- two or mor. years of th hardest kind of
I'.u' rome out oa th. platform and look
up at th. Vagoda. I despair of describing
it. It is a mountain of gold which ends In a
spire nesrly ti) feet high. Tho stone plat-
nsWsfjBw75A, 5'vMxvtvvrvtt? vvtlcrv!
pedltlon was one of the most severe winter
campaigns and General Crook gave up all
hope of accomplishing more thun prevent
ing terrible disaster, the campaign result
ing, however. In that splendid engagement
on Powder river, March 17, 1Y76, with Craxy
Horse's band and being the overwhelming are awakened ef daybreak
defeat of the Indians. His subsequent cam
paigning In the north and northwest in
cluded many of the notable battles and
skirmishes from 1K72 to 18.S2 with t lie
fcloux.
The outbreak of the Indian troubles ln
Arixona in 1VS2, beginning at San Carlos and
leaving a bloody trail to tho Mexican
border, found Morton serving at Fort Mc
Klnney. On July 6, 1SX2, the Indians made
a sortie at Pan Carlos, a-'sussinated their
thre houses. At that time there were 9
000 men In the monasteries, or more than I
per oent of the whole population.
Monk, of Burma,
It must be remembered, however, that
the personnel of the monastery Is con
stantly changing. Men come In and go out.
Boys put on the yellow robe of th priest
hood and lay It aside ln order to marry.
According to the faith, aa taught here,
every Buddhist man or boy must be a,
monk before his soul can be born. Until
then he is a beast, and, 1f he dies, is sure
to be reborn ln some filthy body ln hla
next transmigration.
When a boy enters a monastery b lays
aside his good clothes and puts on a single
sheet of rough yellow cotton. His head Is
now shaved, and he goes forth to beg. No
marnW what his circumstances may have
been, while he Is in the monastery he must
live upon the gifts of the people, snd he
goes forth daily with his begging bowl and
takes what Is offered. He does this, no mat
ter how high he rises nor how long he stays.
The usual time for entering th monas
tery Is at the approach of manhood. Th
youth are admitted on probation, and they
first act as servants, ttr chelahs, for the
monks, having about the same place as
Kim had with the old abbot ln Rudyard
Kipling's delightful novel of Indian life.
Once admitted, the boys are supposed to
devote themselves to holy living, thinking
and doing. They are taught the principle
of Buddhist faith and are urged, to spend
their lives going shout doing good. Borne
of them take the priesthood as a profes
sion and others stay but a ehort time, for
they can come and go at will.
I
Life In the Monasteries.
I have visited some of the monasteries
during my stay ln Burma. The life in
them Is by no means exciting. The monks
by a wooden
bell, and are supposed to be at their
prayers us early as 0:30 In the morning.
As soon aa he rises every monk washes
his hands and face and rinses his mouth.
He then smooths out the robe ln which
he has slept over night and goes Into
prayers. After thut he takes up his duties
about the monastic establishment; he may
sweep the floors of the temple, or water
the garden, or do odd Jobs of various
khsls. The work of the Institution Is
chief of police and broke for the roughest dlvld.d and each man has his own Job.
Chakles
0RT07T
CENXRAL U SA.
country possible ln order to evade pursuit.
Morton was assigned to the pursuing com
mand. He participated In tht big fight In
the canyon of Chevelon's Fork, put down
In the records as "Bltf liay Wanli." July
17, where some won medals of honor and
others were damned by faint praise, and
where there were honors enough for all,
for the Indians got a good drubbing.
Following the surrender of Ueronliuo ln
lbb. Morton's regiment was ordered to
O'exas, a march of over L0U0 mile, where
he was stationed for six years. He had
reached Ids captaincy at this time. He was
aixtgned to recruiting duty In lK2-4, and
following this duty Mas detailed as pro
fesior of military science und tactics at the
Ie La Halle institute In New York City. It
wa while o engaged that the Kpanlsh
Amerlcan war broke out. He Immediately
applied to Join his regiment and a placed
ln command of one squadron of the regi
ment which was engaged An th skirmish
line at the sssault on the Spanish trenches
S4 San Juan Hill. Hla regimental coin-
After a short while the monks all meet
together and start out to beg. Headed
by the chief pitcst, they walk In company
through the main streets of the town with,
their begging bowls In their hands. They
do not ask alms nor cull at the houoes,
but men-ly walk along single file in th
middle of each street, having their eyes
fixed on the ground. Each priest hold
his begging bowl In front of him and th
people come and pour ln their offerings.
The priests do not give thanks, beHrvlng
that they confer a favor In allowing th
people to give. The begging procession
lacts for an hour or so. When it Is com
pleted the monks go back to the mon
astery, whet, they lay a part of their
gifts before th. statue of Buddha and
spread the rj,t mit for breakfast. I hear
It whispered, however, that most of th
monasteries have a hot breakfast as well.
The rnonks eat anofhr meal about noon
and a dinner toward evening. Those I
hav seen look fat and healthy and nona
mandr being badly wounded during Lb. ''"r, th won for th. fasting aad
mwr mm rrugiuui profession.
Continued on Pag. Four.).
'UANK 0, UaJU'JaN7i&rV