DATS MAY BE BIG OR LITTLE
All Shapf i, Periods and Material! Are
Also Modish.
ITEW LINES IN THE TURBANS
Broad-H rim tried Hats Be More Thai
nrdlnnrllr raanlkl This
mrr Trimmings Grade-
- ally Creeplnsj Bark,
NEW YORK, March B Big hats, little
hats of all period, hats of all matei-lils.
list of multitudinous shapes all these are
Included In the new millinery and every
thing polnta to a season of variety, origin
allty and charm In the hat world. There
are models which can by no stretch of the
Imagination be classified s beautiful,
models which push orlg-lnallty to the point
of eccentricity and absurdity, but there ae
always women who unerringly Rrsvliate
toward hats of this type and the milliners
cannot be blamed for preparlnp to meet
the demand, particularly when the?e iimi
milliners supply delightful and mnderately
conservative hate as plentifully as they
are supplying them now.
The turban has not run Its course during
the winter and comes to the front In
sli apes which are more or le? ladlcal
modifications of lines popular during th-
winter, but In summer materials. A ma
jority of them, like the winter turbans, are
posed low upon the head and the s'se
ranges from the close clinging little bowl
shaped affair of rough, straw ptuply
trimmed by a cluster of flowers, a chou of
n ornament of some kind to the elaborate
creation with huge draped crown of tulle
r aatln.
Borne of the smartest turban mode's of
the conservative sort are medium dzel
draped shapes of the fine supple t'-il'.e
) , IBIS WINOS.
Straws with merely an aigrette or cluster
of flowers or chou posed well toward tho
back for trimming. In theso turbans the
cleverness with which tho straw Is h.tnd ed
and the resulting lines tell tho story, and
consequently the beat of these models
command a price quite out of proportion to
their air of chartered simplicity, for they
have passed through artist hands and
artists in millinery come high. We have
een most attractive little draped turbans
of this class In white with a touch of black
and one good model In white yedda has a
drapery of black velvet running from the
right front across the top to the left back,
where it ends under a full feather tuft.
The draped turban made entirely from
tulle appears In some very attractive forms
and either In pne tone or In several shades
of one color.' Often the tulle Is used In
oft full folds Interwoven and one shade
may veil another. A handsome ornament
of some sort, usually holding a soaring
aigrette or plume Is likely to be the only
trimming for one of these tulle turbans,
which In their swathing folds suggest an
airy version of the Oriental turban which
Is fashioned from an Interminable fold of
linen.
Oriental suggestions lurk also in many
of the turbans of straw and satin, straw
and tulle, eta, the soft straw being: folded
closely around the head, while the crown
Is softly draped. A good model has the
oft maize color straw drawn low around
the head as one might swathe a wide
textile fold, In front the two ends cross,
one disappearing, the other running back
on the left side of the crown, where Its
fulness flares to fan or ring shape. The
draped crown Is of black satin and a
Jeweled ornament holds the straw drapery
In the front. ;
Mure fantastlo turban effects are draped
of black satin with close low set brim and
high full crown and are trimmed merely
In big loxonge shaped motifs of white
or colored yedda posed round the brim
with the drapery emerging from beneath
them.
Then there are the flower turbans, al
ways lovely, and ' the turbans with brims
of straw and entire crowns of flowers.
In the latter class the newest shapes have
a plain or draped brim of straw, out of
which the flowers seem to be growing, a
flower pot effect which Is slightly absurd
and yet, grace to the beauty of coloring
and materials, often quaintly charming.
A creation in the deep blue and purplish
violet coloring which Is a fancy of the
eason had the brim of a fine soft dark
blue straw, which was draped slightly and
from this deep purple, single, California
kind, forming the whole top of the crown.
Another model with dark blue brim and
a crown of pinkish lavender primroses.
Whole turbans of flowers lightly veiled
In drapery of tulle or lace and with big
full bows of the tulle or lace on the left
side, well toward the back or quit In
the back, are offered In lovely materials
and colorings. La France rosea seem
well liked for such turbans as for all trim
ming, and fresh looking turbans in white
roses, veiled with green tulle and trimmed
1b airy bows of the same tulle, will be
refreshing looking things for summer days.
Of the close fitting bowl shape we have
STRAW, VELVET AND ROSEA
AW
alrearty ppoken. It Is trying, bvit where it
csn i worn has a pertain absurd attrac
tiveness. Fancy a rather deep bowl of
flat hettom and rounded edge, but with
no flare at the lip, turned upside down
and frMIng closely around the head, de
scending almost to the rtape of the neck
In the back, covering the tips of the ears
end Just escaping the eyebrows' Make
It of snme one of the light soft braid
Inattractlve color, trim It with a cluster
f flowers low on the left side, and Jon
have a head covering ridiculous on the
average woman, trying even to the piquant,
pretty fnce, hut comfortable for auto wear
snd with undeniable smartness, If color
ing and materials have the pVoper French
stamp.
And while we sre talking of Inverted
bowls, a may be noted that other varia
tions upon this Idea shape with rounded
cron and narrow, drooping brim, flaring
a trifle, ore not to be left out of this sea
son's calculations. The shapes are dubbed
mushroom by many saleswomen, but they
sre more accurately described as bowl
shape, and slight differences in the flare
of the tiny brim or lis width In back and
front, respectively, supply variety.
One sees this little shape most often In
the quaint printed cottons, striped cottons,
etc., which have entered the millinery field
and which, though by
:h, though by no means invariably
-
v
i
pretty, are being shown by all the fashion
able milliners. The Persian designs and
colorings In the printed cotton stuffs are
favored for this purpose and the material
Is softly pulled over crown and brim and
simply trimmed with a scarf or cleon or
some odd little cluster of flowers In the
colors of the cotton. Other designs follow
ing the antique printed cotton and linen
Ideas are used and dainty looking hats
for a summer morning are covered with
cool buff and white, rose and white, green
and white or lavender and white cotton
stuff.
Satin-covered crowns combine- with
straw brims are another of the somewhat
freakish ideas exploited by authoritative
makers, not the delightful turbans of which
we have already spoken, with draped
crown of black satin and straw brim, but
wlde-brlmmed shapes whose crown is cov
ered smoothly with satin, while the droop-
ng or rolling brim Is of Leghorn or other
braid.
One of the most exclusive millinery
STRAW AND LIBERTY.
houses was showing last week a hat of
this type with wide Leghorn brim rolling
little at the left front and drooping else
where. The bowl-shaped crown waa cov
ered smoothly with a mignonette green
satin and at the left aldu two long quills.
The gladlalus Is, by the way, one of the
recent additions to the list of artificial
flowers and exceedingly good results are
obtained with it where a stiff effect Is
needed Instead of graceful flopplness. The
flower makers have been wonderfully suc
cessful In the color schemes of this flower,
though often disregarding nature's recom
mendations, and one of the best looking
dark hats we have seen was a very dark
blue fine braid with rather high crown
and moderately wide brim turning up
sharply at the left side.
Against the crown on this left side were
massed gladioli !ai wonderful color scheme
of dark blue, iVvdlng through the deep
blue purples of the California violet to a
pinkish violet, the light tone being but
sparklngly Introduced. The long . spikes
gave much the same lines as wing trim
ming. A model In shape, slightly similar to
this gladiolus bat, but with brim roll more
toward the front and loss of the cavalier
air, Is sketched here and Is capable of
many likable variations through change In
the flower scheme. The original model Is
In a soft green straw of the very fine silky
order and the entire crown disappears un
der lightly roasaed tea rosea and their
foliage. The result Is really exquisite, the
creamy white and yellow and pink tones
if!
' ' .' 4 TerV
II 1 1 I f
11 I
'.'.'.'lii.'V.if :.'.'.'. T:j '
4 Ti:iV.7'-l-'''.-v.v
A
"FHAOONARD" HAT OP PLAOK PTKAW WITH ROSK SILK AND ROSKS. A
STRAW WITH BLACK RIBBON AND A HAT OF ENGLISH EYELET TRIMMED
of the flowers blending delightfully with
the green of the foliage and the echoing
green of the straw, but the same idea
oould be carried out acceptably In many
other materials and coloring. A leghorn
with delicate masses of morning glories
would be particularly good, and the shape
which though picturesque Is conservative
and generally becoming, may be found in
almost any of the modish braids.
The broad brimmed hat invariably comes
to the fore with summer days, though
small hats have their uses even in midsum
mer, and It seems that these big hats are
to be more than ordinarily possible this
soason, though they are on the whole tre
mendously picturesque. Perhaps the pos
sibility lies in the variety. That Is a dif
ficult face which cannot be suitably
framed In some one of the big hats this
summer.
A few Louis XVI. shapes were seen last
summer and more were promised. The
promise has been kept and now one finds
delectable models labeled Frangonard or
some such suggestive title, and rolling up
audaciously at the back while drooping
over the face In front. Sometimes the roll
of the brim lessens toward the front, but
does not entirely disappear until it is some
where above the right eyebrow, a faint
roll being still retained above the left side
of the .forehead. The lifting of the brim
at the left front makes tho back roll shape
much more becoming to some faces than
Is the all around front droop.
The way in which trimmings have been
creeping toward the back during the luat
year has foreshadowed the return of the
upturned back brim and we shall doubtless
see much more of U In tiie months to
come, with appropriate changes In trim-
TULLE TOQUH
THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MARCH
V
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.OA
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iff
I
mm.
VIOLETS AND STRAW.
mlng arrangements which will quite alter
the heed silhouette to which we have
grown accustomed. The turbans and small
hats will probably follow suit and we
shall once more have back hair revela
tlona A black straw Fraggonard pictured on
this page was encircled by a band of rose
silk finely plaited and cut in points on
the upper edge, with little pastiles of the
silk applied between the points, and a
cluster of big pink roses trimmed the
crown at the back. Another model, whose
wide brim rolled up rather more sharply In
the back than did the brim of the black
and rose model, was of the faintest lllao
crin. Deeper lavender velvet ribbon was
drawn loosely around the crown and held
lightly but over the brim at the right
front by a delicate pink rose,' while at
the left back were massed lilacs, shading
from dark to llKht, and creamy pink roses.
There Is a noticeable effort to increase
the amount of trimming on the modish hat
and many of the new models are flower
laden, but the designers are unwilling to
give up their cult or the unbroken line,
even though this winter fad has called
forth howls of protest from the manufac
turers of, millinery trimmings. A hat of
handsome material, original and artistic
line and almost no trlinmlng or none at all
has been the last word of smartness dur
ing the winter and one can understand that
an artist might delight In making such a
model, feeling that here she was on her
mettle, that in success with such uncom
promising severity lay a touchstone sura
to differentiate between the true artist and
the novice. Given beautiful flowers or
plumes, ribbons, etc., happy accident may
achieve a charming confection, but acci
dent baa nothing to do with tho building
6, 1910.
3
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TOQtJB OF BLACK AND WHITB
jILaCK TULLE AND ROSES.
up of a successful untrlmmed
hat.
Un-
erring skill Is demanded there.
So, as has been said . before, . one can
sympathize with the master milliners In
their loyalty to this fad, but alt the same
many workfolk have suffered through this
freak of the mode, and It- Is to be hoped
that not only summer hats, but the win
ter hats that lie beyond will be liberally
trimmed.
Flowers, tulle, lace, satin, velvet and
ribbon, with the Irrepressible aigrette and
occasional ostrich plumes seem to be hav
ing things their own way In the first sum
mer millinery, and even the spring tailor
hats show few of the usual wing, quill and
bird effects.
The blcorne has not gone out with the
winter, though the tricome has lost caste,
and there are many chio and somewhat
audacious blcorne models rolling back
boldly from the face, set on the head at
a knowing angle and flower or feather
trimmed. These shapes are made In all
kinds of straw.
Some good models are In Leghorn or
other supple, fine, light straw, faced with
velvet Others are in black or dark color
1517 Douglas
Formerly Hotel Rome
Exclusive Gowns,
Cloaks, Dresses
...and Waists
v.
. ipsi.J.llUW.
HEADACHE?
! Naturally, if your ecalp is loaded down every
day with rolls, puffs, twitches, etc. Why not
gradually discard all artificial hair and begin
a simple, easy course of hair culture with
. EBIPIMUKS
HAIRTONIG
Massage itintcTthe ecalp every day and
watch your hair improve.
V Test b bottle of this woaderful French preparation.
Sold bj dealers everywhere, 50c and $1.00 per bottle.
If you write to our American Offices to-day, we will
send yon a regular LOc sample for 5c
PARFUMERIE ED. PINAUD, Dept. 28.
ED. PINAUD BLDG. NEW TORE
tinidliiiiiiiiilii wti mt KaW thM Oa Xait4
tyla 12. It lew in butt and baa a lens-
draisned for the averaae fisnr.: mmdt .1
WM-lDcb trout claipi lace Uiamed; 2 pairs of trier.
&esla. Jrlce,1.00
and In some fine soft braid such aa crln
or chip. These, too, may be - taoed with
velvet, but are more often unfaoed.
The crown may be of white or llht
straw with the dark brim or the entire
hat made In black, and a favorlta method
of trimming is to run a lino of flowers
ftralfht across the .top of the crown, be
tween the two close rolllnr brims, while
around the crown may be swathed tulle
or satin, or perhapa the crown Itself may be
entirely draped of tulle or satin and only
the wide rolling brim of braid. A smart
looking- white hat of the large bloorne
type had a wreath of pink popples across
the crown and caught on the brim' at each
side by a knot of satin, one knot of the
lightest coral pink, the other of the deep
est poppy tone.
A stunning; blcorne In a very dark
bluish purple fine straw figures among
the sketches anrl la trlmmeri In a. sra.rf of
light blue with pink roses and little pinij
lavender flowers for other trimming.
Blcornes trimmed In thick, short, up-
BTRAW AND SATIN.
Announces that the spring and
summer showing is now com
plete, comprising
Cloth, Silk and Linen
Gowns, Coats and Suits
for reception, street or country club
PRICES RANGE:
$15.00, $20.00, $25.00, )
$35.00 up to $175.00
St.
'SI
A
w
OMEN are
often sur
prisedto find
that their figure is so
different.so much bet
ter, when they put on
a Kabo Corset. It is
always noticeable to
others.
Kabo Corsets are the
leaders in style and are
remarkable for the great
comfort they give the
wearer.
Buy a Kabo.
Kabo Form Reducing Cor
ets are perfect in comfort and
results.
Kabo Maternity Supporters
re a great blessing to women '
who expect the Stork.
All Kabo roods are protects
ed by the most liberal guar,
antee.
Kabo Corset Co,
Chicago ' ;
skirt.
bitiite with
standing ostrich plumea are seen among!
the summer hats as they haw been seen
In the winter millinery and the bronse,
green, sulphur, gold and light yellow green
tones are used on black straw aa they were
upon black velvet, the straw often being
faced with velvet, so that the effect 1s much
.the sunt as that of the plum trimmed
winter blcornes. .
Broad trimmed eh apes of lace or of
broderle Anglalso, rolling; more or lesa at
the side, are trimmed In, tulle and flowers
and wide brims drooping- all around have
Tull crowns and huge bows of tulle or lace.
Or possibly the crown la of .lowers or ia
wreathed with flowers and a veiling o
tulle or lace swathes all.
Black and white effects are numerous
and the dark blue, which begun a triumphal
vogue In the winter, continues Its popular
ity, though a few color are more unsatis
factory for a summer hat, because dark
blue straw fades dlsaatrously
Good Bide of Ironing,
To mere man, uncultured and unashamed,
the flatlron seem a thing- of evil, observes
Success Magazine. Its use renders the
house uninhabitable one day out of seven;
It distract woman's attention from the all
important matter of preparing food. In
shameless conspiracy with starch, it ren
ders clothes uncomfortables, turns napkins
Into slippery boards, and banishes sleep
from beds. Civilised man Is a slave of the
ironing board, and the boiled shirt Is the
emblem of his degradation.
Now,, the scientists tell us that Ironing
has an important function as an antiseptic;
that the hot Iron 1m one of our leading
germ killers. This Instrument of turtui
may have a temperature of 26ti degrees,
and that they say, Is mora than enough
to satisfy the most fastidious bacllluH. in
places where sterllllzlng devices are not
handy, surgical dressings may be Ironed
with great advantage, and In a recent
experiment clothing which had been worn
by diphtheria patients was completely dis
infected by the use of a hot Iron.
Long-suffering man will note with) rA.cf
that the scientists have said nothing In
defense of starch. There has been no vin
dication of the boiled shirt.
Is
--j
1
K
