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VOIXXXIX-NO. 38.
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OMAHA, SUNDAY MORNING, MAECTI 6, 1910t
SINGLE COPY FIVE CENTS.
MJPMIS FflDM THE M(D)ME TOIKESSMAEEE. J
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ARIfl. IBpe'lsl CorreRpondence.l Soma In
teresting developments hi gowns, coats,
and hats nre being mado at thla present
niomont, which to my mind certainly indi
cate the trend of the coming; modes and
what the general style la to be. They are
email change, but like the little straws
aliow the directions of the winds of fash-
iona, and for these one must Invariably be on the look
out or else when big and radical changes take place they
are too bewildering to be entirely grasped.
The things most noticed now are that eklrta are fuller
nd many of them ere flounced and otherwise trimmed
moat elaborately; that oversklrta seem to be an estab
lished fact, and that they are appearing In all aorta of
new forma and ahapea; that bodices are quite changed,
and aome are long and pointed, while othera are round
and are attached to the skirts with large cords, or by
several cordlngs of dlff rent sixes.
Flchua have appearej, aome lore trimmed, othe-s
tucked or finished with fringe. They are draped on
the ahouldera, knotted In front, and fastened with aome
quaintly ahaped ornament, or are brought to the line
of the waist and then crossed to the back, where they
hang In long ends. The full sleeve has come In with
Its hanging effect Just above the wrist, or else one aees
elbow sleeves tiarhtly fitted and finished with enormously
full gathered ruffles of lace or embroidery.
Gowns, even cloth ones, are trimmed with puffs, some
times of the same material, or of something contrasting,
silk, chiffon, or lace. This Is quite a new note and on
which Is sure to catch the popular taste. Lastly, there
Is a complete change In the colors to be used this year,
and the sad and drab ah&dea of a aeason ago are to be
aeen no more. Now everything Is as bright as can pos
Ibly be worn, and there are many combinations of
colors that are simply fascinating and charming.
In coats and hats one remarks these same changes,
although perhaps not In e marked a manner. The for
mer are ahort and are as natty as possible. Most are
collarless, but they ore trimmed with braiding, cords, -loops,
and huge buttons, and nearly all are belted Into 1
the figure. Many have funny little skirts fulled on be- i
.tioatli these belts, and these also are trimmed or (In
''shed with puffs. The sleeves of these coats are fvillor
and the regular coat sleeve has entirely disappeared
except on the severely tailor made costume, where of
necessity It must be.
Hats are tall and the drooping brim Is no more, but
they are picturesque, If anything1 more than ever. The
brims are enormously high, and If they are not set well
down over the forehead they are put on at such a rakish
angle they look dangerous. Most of the crowns are J
aeries of puffs, velvet, silk, or tulle, and of regular
trimming there is little unless it be some sort of stun
ning buckle, a single flower, or a bow of ribbon of such
proportion that those of last season seem amall by com
parison. All of these changes, simple as many of them" are,
mean only one thing, and that is that we have finished
with the middle age, with Its classic lines. Its gor
geous stuffs. Its cloths of gold and silver, and all Its
mediaeval effects, and have come down to a period which
la leas splendid but certainly more charming, and that Is
the time of the Louis, both the XV. and the XVI.
Everything points to this, the manner of making the
gowns, their trimming and general style, and all the new
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materia, of which one can sometimes gat an occaalonal
glimpse, carry out the same idea.
Of course. If one consults the great authorities on thla
subject, the proverbial aphlns would have been talka
tive 00m pared with what they have to aay. Not one
Will admit that we are to be dressed a la Louis XV.
r Louis XVI., but equally they will not deny that this
will be so, and to my mind It Is a case of silence glvi.ig
consent. At any rate, there is no fashion more sntract-
e and more becoming to the awsrage woman than this.
and If thla coming summer we Ave all to be ahepherd-
eases. or milkmaids, or court ladles In gay brocades, and
are to wear patches and carry crooks, so much the
tetter.
The woman who cannot look her beat when garbed In
Louis XVI. costume Is a hopeless proposition, and
f these there are certainly not many, and, on the other
band. It la safe to predict that there are scores of women
yrbe turn capacity tor good looks tbat this particular
Robe efhovrxTid the "&r,3.s3xeTc
Effect Which. Is the Za-teetTliiTi?
tyle of dress twill bring out until they bloasom forth
aa regular beaitlea
The new tailor gowns which Drecoll Is Just bringing
out are plain little costumes, but wonderfully smart
and certain to be the mode until well into the summer.
They are made of atrlped cloth In any of the soft neutral
ahadea. The stripes are formed of hair linea of while or
some light color, pale blue, green, or even pink, and the
material Is like a supple, loosely woven serge.
One that I saw had the skirt made with a few little
gather about the waist. Just enough to allow it hanging
quite straight. About at the line of the kneea was
narrow band of the material which drew the skirt In
lightly, and at the bottom waa another band, six or
seven Inches wide, and Into this the remainder of the
fullneaa on the skirt was gathered.
The coat carried out this same Idee, for It was a short
affair, belted at the waist and finished at the edge of
U little skirt -wit bias band, whica fitted tightly
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around the hlpa and held the fullness in place. There
waa a little flat braiding on the coat and aome large
handsome buttons fastened It In front The sleeves,
which were full and large, were brought Into deep cuffs
finished with buttons and braid, the latter coming up
onto the sleeve and finishing in points above the elbow.
This model, with several modifications. Is one of the
most popular ones of the early season and Is being made
In silk as well as serge and cloth.
All the skirts of these have either gathers, tucks, or
a tiny bit of shirring, nut enough to be clumsy, but
sufficient to give them a straight appearance as they
hang from the waist. To make them more pronounced
the band at the bottom Is frequently so narrow that
walking In them is a difficulty, and the free and un
trammeled stride of the athletic American girl would be
an Impossibility. Some are not more than two yards
in width, but two and a half are considered nearly the
proper limit . Little more than thla la allowed for the
woman of extra flesh, and aba must conform to this rule
If she wants to be In the fashion.
I saw another one of nearly thla same model, alao from
Drecoll, which waa more dressy, and wcld make a
charming gown for aprlng visiting and teas. It was of
lis-f a heavy soft quality and leaf green In color. A
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narrow panel extended down the front and broadened
out toward the bottom and continued around the edge
of the skirt In a seven Inch band. Thla was of cloth
and of a dark ahade of blue that mad a splendid con
trast to the green shade of the gown. The coat was
treated In the same manner, and on these bands of cloth
was more embroidery In shaded greens, which waa most
effective. A double collar of cloth and silk finished the
neck, but the wide cuffs were of the blue cloth only and
were embroidered. It was a useful costume and on that
would be good in several combinations of colore.
Although embroidery does not play a large part on
many of the eprlng tailored costumes. It Is used, but
only In small quantities and In a manner that Is most
effective. I saw one dark blue gown, quite severely
plain, finished with the usual biaa band and made with
a ahort double breasted coat with a narrow belt of the
same at the waist. On each shoulder. In a point across
the front and on the aleevea was some coarse embroid
ery done in wool, the 00 lor being reds, moss green, and
a soft yellow. It was a most stunning dress and simple.
It Is to the theaters that one must look to see the
latest offerings in the way of fashions, and at the the
atera nearly all th smart actresses have pronounced
Gown, of White Libe.rty-&tirx Combined
frith Txxlle E?rnbToicle7?ed irx PeaiTls
3.nci Gold. Bxxtfles model from paquin
for the Louis XV. and Louis XVI. styles. Mile. Sorel.
who has the proud distinction of being called the best
dressed woman in France, is wearing some lovely gowns
in her latest piece at the Theater Franchise. One, per
haps the prettiest of all, was of soft shell pink, which
served .'for a foundation for two exquisite flounce of
point d'Argentan laca. These In turn, were veiled by a
sort of little overdress of chiffon, finished all atound
'th edge with double puff of the same. . ,'
"Over this slip of a dress Mile. Sorel wtars another
made of silk, white brocaded In bouquets of gay flowers,
and trimmed about the edge with lace and pearls. This
opens In the front and shows the frock beneath it and
also the lining, which Is of the most adorVable shade of
apple green. The gown la low in the neck, and the
sleeves are to the elbow, where they finish with wide
and full ruffles of lace. The hat worn with this cos
tume Is a three cornered affair of lace and tulle, all
black, and Its trimming Is a tiny bow of gold lace and
a tassel of gold with pearl ends.
Another gown of the Louie XVI. period, which Mile.
Soref wears, was of pearl gray silk, made with a rather
short full skirt, trimmed on Its lower edge with a puff of
chiffon. Above this were festoons of ribbon flower In
all the delicate colors, with her and there a touch of
something brighter in a rose or other flower.
The bodice was pointed back and front and quit deep,
and beneath this were hip draperies which were male
full and caught up at either side. These) and th bodice
were finished with puffs of chiffon. About the neck of
the latter were festoons of the same flowers, Whioh
trailed off Into almost nothing at the walat. Th sleeve
were short, with the usual lace frills, and about her
wrist and around her throat she wore narrow band of
black velvet.
In another play, "La Barricade," the principal ac
tress. Mile. Carexe, wore two charming gowns, both of
which would be good style for spring or summer. Th
first was of pink linen made with quite a narrow skirt,
the band at the edge being composed of braiding don In
soutache In a deep shade of pray. The short Jacket wn
souble breasted and was fastened down almost under th
left arm, leaving the entire front of the coat to be cov
ered with embroidery and braiding. The sleeves were
large and came Just below the elbow, and were finished
with frills caught by bands of braiding.
The other gown waa of moussellne de sole embrolJer.d
In cachemlre colors and made with an oversklrt over
sn under one of plain chiffon, both being white. Th
upper skirt and bodice were all in one piece, the con
nection being made with row of shining done over
heavy cords. The corsage was high and about th
throat was a ruffle of lace edged with rather wide fringe.
This hung partly over the front of the bodice, which
was embroidered to match the skirt. 1
'While on the subject of oversklrta I must not forget
to mention a new model which I saw a day or two ago
at Zimmerman's. It was a costume which was being 1
made for a well known singer, the material being nlnon, I
In pink mauve, a charming ahade. The underskirt had
. only a wide hem for a finish and over this hung th
oversklrt, which was composed entirely of tiny plaits,
pressed flat so that they would keep their place. It
was pointed in front and long, with the back some
inches shorter. The bodice was made of th earns
plaits, but fastened in place, and attached to th skirt
by a heavy cord. This gave the effect of being all
In one piece and yet allowed of a perfect fit There
was a tiny gulmpe of lace and deep ruffles of the sam,
and on the front of the bodice and Just below the waist
line a touch of stunning gold embroidery took away
from any too quiet effect
These tucked, or plaited, oversklrts promise to be on
of the novelties of the aeason and they are pretty and
becoming. They are being made of the same material
a th underaklrt, of chiffon of the same color, and alao
of chiffon and lace of a contrasting shade, and worn
over a slip of satin or chiffon. On of their charm i
' that they are youthful looking, and a a auggeatlon for
remodeling a somewhat passe costume It Is excellent
There are ao few way of making over one' last ea
son's gowns, even when they are practically fresh and
good, that one usually grasps at anything and la de
lighted at the opportunity.
All th new bodice are being made collarless, and
the woman with th long slender throat must look to It
that her sister with fuller contour and round soft
curve doe not supplant her In appearance. Th high
boned collar 1 to be no more, at least for the present,
and In th place th gown are cut with V necks,
or with perfectly round ones that reach Just to th
throat line. To be worn with these are some lit'
pointed collars finished around th edge with quite wld
ruffles of muslin, batiste, or lace, which fit the necx
perfectly and are most becoming and fascinating. Home
times th tiny pointed plecs Iz z bit of exquisite em
broidery aa fine as a oobweb, and It I because of this'
th frill are usually batiste to make the contrast.
1