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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 30, 1910)
THE OMAHA1 SUNDAY BEEi JANUA11Y 80. 191 A. MMTS FdDM TME ITOME HMESSMAKEHS. m) T winter semi-season In Farl It an important time, for It la then that the astute Individual may glean a number of Interesting Items In regard to style, and also It la the time which may be said to ba the forerunner of what may be looked for in the aprlng. The fashion able world Is leaving for Nice. Monte Oirlo, and all the other resorts where dress la th .important affair of the day, and for these are being designed novelties and charming costumes which will appear later in the different caslnoa and at fashion able dinners, teas, garden parties, and the like. All the great establishments are showing some mall novelty either in cut, material, or general style, and It la interesting to note the differences in these and It Is also a matter of conjecture as to what may be lasting or the reverse, Paqutn, for Instance, Is making full skirts and Is showing gowns that are a distinct contrast to those seen In the early part of the season. Some of the skirts look absurdly full and, in addition to the excess of material in them, they are tucked and more or less trimmed with flounces, ruches, ribbons, and bias folds until the material Is almost lost sight of in the amount of decoration. Beer on the contrary Is making gowns closer and more clinging than ever, and unless the skirts are draped they are otherwise untrlmmed. Worth for the moment seems to have discarded the elaboration of embroidery and gorgaousness of detail, and la going in for simpler effects and less noticeable combina tions. One thing this establishment is clinging to and th.at is the combinations of black and white, which they Introduced at the flrat of the season and which they still are using la new materials and sllgh differences in style. Some of these gowns are among the most attractive seen and It Is safe to predict that white with black will be one of the smart effects of the spring. There Is a decided change In sleeves, and the close, long coat sleeve either for afternoon or evening tailored gowns Is no longer being made. Quite large sleeves, some of them tucked, others puffed at the elbows, and even the bell shaped sleeves of half doxen years ago are being seen and it is doubtful if. even a single small sleeve will appear on any spring or summer costume. Also the elbow sleeve which haa not been In favor for several seasons is being used for after noon dresses, and these are being trimmed with lace, falls of fringe, or ruffles of chiffon and embroidery, which give them a dressy and effective air. In the materials voiles, taffetas, lightweight satins, a heavy quality of tussore are all tsklng the place of cloths, charmeuse, and the soft, clinging materials that were shown at the openings. Taffeta gowns are particularly among the newest, and In this material the tendency is towards old fashioned shades of soft and Indefinite colors. Th.r. i. also a revival of changeable taffetas, and In these mot V SI ft ; f 7S XL- h - 1. ft St TV si j ft i US 1 't i 5 r V 3 f .:;-i; S si Chiffon Cloth. Costume irx Da.rJcSfa.ure, Trimmed iixGolct Errfbxoxciery. A Novel Efectiri nVir-JcP . I vSUeres Ow Xace Vridet sleeves . flodel fnorzx FkvLnCis w w m w a si of Pale JTose ri'nl Chiffon Tvi tm.rn.edL With Clustevs of Poses :tcLTid Fbliafc.BeltofGdd tt Ccazze. uold Embroider) MAUDANT AND X0SDALE V - 's tv &lack and White Chxffoxx ?oym ozx Woxt Jerlei and that beautiful colorings are to be seen, of a quality niu?h softer and more pliable than for many years. Gowns made of this matsrlal have a picturesque air, for many of them are made short as to the skirts, surplice bodies, or old fashioned round necks, with drooping shoulders and full sleevs, either slightly flow 4ng or gathered into quaint little wristbands of em broidery or net. Lace flounces trim many of these cos tumes, or batiste on which Is seen beautiful old em broidery designs thin as cobweb and exquisite as to col oring. It is certainly a period of revival, and an woman who is blesstid with a wU atocked cabinet filld with lace and old embroideries can utilise tvery scrap of her precious belongings. I saw several gowns lately at Zimmerman's which were Intended for southern wear, and which were charming and aa quaint and simple as they could be made. In one the material was of softest taffeta In the changeable effect, the colors being pale dull blue and mauve. The .skirt just reached the floor and In the back and at the sides a great deal of fullness was gathered Into the waistband. It was trimmed with two flounces fully eighteen Inches In depth and of old tace yellow In tone and thin and sheer. These were put on quite full and a space of six Inches appeared between the two. At the head of each flounce was a festoon effect In ribbon, pale blue being the sha.le chosen, and at regular intervals this was tied In small bows with ends several inches in length. The bodice was cut quite round, the sleeves falling off the ahoulders after the manner of the 1830 cos tumes. Around the neck appeared the same festoons of ribbon, and these 'were brought down over the upper part of the aleeves with the same flnlah of smart little bows. The sleeves themselves were quite large and were brought In to a high cuff which had for its finish a lace frill. The yoke was of the same lace and had on It slight touches of silver em broidery. It was a gown Intended to be worn for afternoons on the Riviera, and would make a dellgh'. ful little model for restaurant dinners, theaters, or afternoon receptions for early spring. Another equally good gown was a veiling of a heavier quality than last year and much more open and silky. The eolor was a faint shade of ashes of roses, and the lining, which was of liberty satin, ws Of a deep flame color, giving a most wonderful tone to the costume. The skirt was cut with the effect of an oversklrt, the lower part being severely plain and the upper part full. The only finish was a narrow hem at the top of which Was a tiny ribbon put on quite plainly. The bodice was made to match the oversklrt, that Is, It was laid In plaits and drawn into a wide waist band made of some sort of queer embroidery, in which appeared several colors and some gold and sliver threads. A stunning plastron of the same Ailed In most of the front, and around the slightly roundel neck was a narrow band of gold. In spite of Its simplicity the gown had a barbarlo appearance, due entirely to Its colorlegs, which were unusual. The evening gowns, which early in the season showed a tendency to all and everything that was gorgeous and wonderful, are now becoming decidedly simpler, and it must be confessed that to the average beholder they are improved by the change. Chiffons and crpe de chines are the favorite fabrics. nd combined with these are all kinds of embrotd- es, ribbons, and flowers. Cloth of arold or alive Jetted effects seem to have disappeared, or If not , they are being kept in the background for the present while all the lighter weight stuffs take their innings. Worth, who supposedly only uses the richest of goods, haa for a fortnight past been showing nothing but chiffon costumes made In various styles, some eo little trimmed that they are absolutely girlish. Most of them are double skirted, as In fact are a large majority of the newest frocks, which may or may not be an Indication of the future. One charming model that I saw in this great estab lishment had for Its underskirt black chiffon finished with a broad hem, and above that a single tuck with gold thread. Above this was draped a material more like a tissue than a chiffon, the color being deep apple green. -There were regular panniers on the hlpa, and these were still further accentuated by being lined with stiff material like tarleton. The bodies, which was pointed back and front, was a combina tion of black and green, but It was partly covered by a nutllke trimming of gold threads and green beads, which was arranged In bertha form, hanging in a deep point In front and a shorter one In the back. The belt was narrow and was also pointed, and was of some gold metal which clearly defined the waist Another gown. In Worth's favorite combination of Sit?!? $e$f C03.tr ttrt -.SfriVsfaAs With. black and white, had the latter color in chiffon made over a petticoat of white. The latter was untrlmmed, but finishing the edge of the oversklrt was a little border of gold bugles which gave it the necessary weight. The upper skirt was fairly short in front, fell well over the hem of the underskirt in the back, and had a great deal of fullness at the waist. Tho belt was an elaborate affair of gold bugles, embroid ery, and satin, and well shaped, wide In the back, narrow at the sides and with a long dip point in front There is no question but that the belt In many and various forms Is coming back Into favor, for not only Is It being shown on gowns of which It forms a part, but It Is also to be seen In many of the smartest hops as a separate article of apparel. The belts of some of the evening gowns are things of great beauty, being wtondrous affairs of Jewels, gold thread, and embroidery, all cunningly wrought into odd and pro nounced shapes. Bo Important have these become that in some esses they constitute the sole trimming of the frock, and for this reason anything that is orlg. lnal and striking In design is aimed at. Holts of gold galloon, embroidered and decorated with beads or with the still mora fashionable bugles In gold and silver, are many of them most beau tiful, particularly when worn with soft tinted chiffon lace or net gowne. Many of these have an extra piece, either apron Shape with rounded edges or two long straight rlbbonUke falls which finish them In front and which add much to their beauty and effectiveness. The ends of these are usually fringed, sometimes to the depth of half a yard or more, and for this beads and bugles In assorted sizes are employed. Few of the smartest belts are finished with buokles. but In place there are to be seen strappings and! lacings of metal cords fitted with slender springs' which hold closely to the figure and which help to ward the long walsted lines which sre at present the mode. I