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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 16, 1910)
V I THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JANUARY 10, 1010, r A r 1 1 -, HOME MEMAHTO m Ik Jmwmias (& o n 2M mmd 1 II II if: , , F" ? Marx Eleanor GDonnell y 'vt-.i.,, XCE.SSIVKLY It might be ealJ gre- K lively plntn and aimpl In effect art man v of the most expensive gowne this season I The gowns shown for wear at the matlnte. or at home In the afternoon, or ror in formal luncheon and card parties, are shown In many Instances made of black voile de sole, open at the throat in a short V shap or with Uie V filled In with trans parent yoke and a high collar. This V shape, by the way, has forged to the frortt In th last few weeks a"1 Is everywhere used Instead of the Dutch neck, which Is decidedly pease. The waist is made in soft surplice folds of the ma terial over softer folds of tullo and edged with velvet. This mode Is one ot the most popular. But there Is also another modol that is In great dmand, the fu'l blousej waist and the tunlo skirt. The sleeves ar3 lbow length over lonfrer sleeves of tulle or net, and re also finished with bands of velvet ribbon. Pretty ronna, too. are made In white crepe de chine, printed with I'alailey .borders in various colorings. These wide borders are decorative and form all the necesHary trimmli'.g for the gowns, as they can easily ba arranged to outline the hem and also to edgo the Inevitable drapertoa. The bodices of these gowns are designed In many different ways, and look well whsn the sleeves are made of the printed border and the corsage Itself of the plain crepe. Another Idea Is to make the upper part of the bodice and the sleeves, as far as the elbow, In the colored fabric, and to ue the plain crepe de chine for the lower purt of the bojicc. so that by Joining It Invisibly under draped folds to the skirt it gives the effect of a princess gown. The skirts of the newest gownj are trimmed or made with a tunic or double nklrt. hut not for one moma it does the woman who knows how to dress well allow either trimming or double eklrt to interfere with anv lines that will make her look slender. While at present there is every effort being made to bring back full skirts, the slim silhouette will null be vhcten for many months by ths smartest gowned., women, and she who can successfully combat the newest fad or who emi enmblne them with the slender lines will be the envied tie Trimming on skirts Is shown worked out most clev-i rly. On one mojlel the front breadth was drawn to one side or draped bnck to show an underskirt of the sumu material. The underskirt is decorated with touches jf hand embroidery, which are repeated on tho walHt, Another model simple enough In line and detail to offer no puir.llng problems to the woman who mak" her own clothes was of hlnck chiffon over white satin. , with a wide girdle of tatln and n blouse composed of embroidered chiffon and a drapery of chiffon edgud with Ilk fringe. There was never a time when the clever woman cou' I see more opportunities for the utilization of old frock than she csn now. The universal vogue of tunic effects, the mingling of different materials. t!ie liking for fur bands, metallic laces, and embroideries till these things contribute to the successful refurbishing of frocks lightly worn or nut of style. An old satin or crepe gown that would not do for wear again will often serve admirably fur a princes" robe which Is partly veiled by a tunic, for It may be pieced out without showing the intchwork if the wo k, It neatly done and the lines of Jatntns; hidden by draperies.. Or perhsps some such old froc'.;. though not available for an entire foundation, wilt supply the lower part of the skirt, whoso upper portion is of some other material. In the roat suits shown for afternoon or the more dressy affairs the eoaU are short. In ordering tai lored or a seml-tallored costume for early spring weir it is assuredly tho part of wiiuom to have the co.it mad luodsrately short and to have it a trifle morj frank In the matter of waist curves than has been customary of late. The long, loosely HtteJ coats on com paratively straight lines have been almost universally v N If v tar. v- W is f f - XM (v:T ; r' fv Kill . , iff -is rkSu " 1 ?W -w V" . v ' i III I f-r rfSg shit w h I - 'III i v 0 . ( W till J I I C'M l v, l-v-- l I : (' m 1 -r j I III vil I y,1 ( i nil a v V &'AS I VA lJJMSV' ii x - j, ,v --. f- San is n W . . ii, r fi ' ; " 11 OjXS Of THE TiZtWZZ? ShOUZDSS. SdAEFS Tom. &Li'ir.TSE tvsat In Em.br olDEizzn ttxtf wzih brcoming, accenting slenderness and concealing too nbundant curves-, but there are many who will welcome the return of the shorter coat and of lines a HUM more trim. It Is to be hopej, however, that the movement will not swlnp over to the close fitting, tightly strained bodices and coats we all can remember. No matter how tight fitting its lines, no garment should be strained, but the ordinary dressmaker's idea of a per fect fitting garment is to make a thing so tight that it will not wrinkle instead of cutting it so perfectly that It will not wrinkle. A point to remember In rega-1 to those new coats ii the lining. The white linings which formerly pleased us much are now quite gone out. Klther the coat Is lined with silk or autln of the efme tint or with a con trasting one, banana being the leading color. There is a certain satisfaction In the strong color Just now to the front, the brlrfht, full royal blue, the various tones of purple, especially the deep shades wlllt Jcpths almost of black In It and ' the bloom of thi purple grape on the surface, tha chavannesc green, anl Its true emerald relative. But most captivating Is the new blue, which blends so well, with the black and emerges so triumphantly from the glare of the electric light, the blue Mediterranean which,' as Its name im plies, reflects the tints of tha tldeless seas, that won derful blue which sparkles a gleam of sun or darkona to a purple and Indigo In tha dull lights. Rustling petticoats " are returning. Of course these are of taffeta, but the novel ones are In shot e (Tec's, such as green with heather pink blushing through l, bronze with a purple gleam, or mode with blue or green or gold in Its sheen. In half informal blouses the white linen garment finished with a long double frill down the center of the front Is still considered smart. They are given soft collars and cuff, which are usually finished with a hemstitched frill. The cuffs may be rolled back or worn with the frill Mailing over the hand. The most sougnt after materials for these separate blouses, which era worn a great deal at the matinees this season, are thoo that preserve the lingerie effect, yet are more substan tial and warm In appearance than linens or lawns. Mo that a great many models are shown In such fabrics as marquisette and voile. , One model shown was In white marquisstte, wl'h borders of navy blue, showing a good slsed white dot At' the wider plaited frill at the front there is a ro of the dot;', and the same Is Brought down In two ban Is on either side. Tucks are put In yoke depth and In lhj back continue to the waist In four groups. The shoul der team has beading. ArounJ the cuffs there are two lines of dots. The characteristic note In all these blouses Is the combination of f.ne white linen with embroidery In del icate colors. Again, it may be s combination of colore and embroidery, as white and green linen wltfi green embroideries, or white and rose, or white and mauve. The buttons are unique, being of colored crochet, band work, and many are oval inateud of round. These but tons are mado detachable so that they can be taken off when laundered. Or the colors of the buttons may bo changed to match the color of the suit worn. None of the smartest shirt waists Is made with the stiff collar and cuffs. They ill have the collars anl cuffs attached, hand embroidered, and with set In filet or other Insertings suoh as Cluny and baby Irish. This, together with tha colored crocheted buttons, give them a distinction and make them quite dressy enough for any afternoon oeraslon. A number of blouses are shown made up of allover embroideries. Eyelet designs ere good In tbeee, but Ibe English epen effects are better. The greatest changes of all are aeen In the colored tulles, and these will pre vail until the warm weather eoraea. The silk tulle have been much abandoned on acoount of their frailty.
