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. ARIS. Special Correspondence. At last
the hoped for and blessed moment has
arrived when fashions here have declared
themselves, and one need no longer sit
on the fence and waif, fearful of taking a '
plunge to either side. .From now on until'
the next great semi-annual exposition of
styles, It" Is smooth sailing In Paris and '
one may safely place her orders for costumes of any
kind with the thoroughly comfortable feeling that for
' few'months at least these will be strictly in the mode.
Of course there are always small detours to be
made la the matter of hats, of dressing the hair, of
scarfs, ruohes. and of a hundred nd one little acces
sories that make a woman chic orotherwlse, but those
are only a question of keeping one's weather eye
opened, or of having one's pockctbook sufficiently well
filled to be able to buy the latest novelty as it makes
its appearance. N
The beginning of the autumn races and the opening
of the varloUB smart theaters are the principal factors
that lead to the establishment of the fashions, so that
one must visit Longchamps. the Oymnase, the Rejane,
-and others to see what Is really being worn.. ..At. the ..
first one sees every conceivable style in the way of cos
tumes for the street, good. baJ, but itmust be confessed
seldom Indifferent, and at the several theaters the va
riety of other gowns that are new and charming is
something quite stupendous. . .""'"
For instance, at the Gymnase. which opened a few
nights ago, Mme, Brandes, who Is one of the best
dressed women in Paris, wore some beautiful toilets,
any one of which would be delightful off the stage a 4
well as on. They were all distinguished by a certain
simplicity, but it was of a kind that meant the richest
of materials and the most renowned ot couturleres.
One evening gown was of supple satin entirely cov
ered with a heavy tulle tunic In a network of pearls anvi
gold. It was finished with a heavy gold fringe, which
was graduated to the tunic, long In front and short In
the back, where it fell over the train. The corsnge was
low and seemed to be composed entirely of fringe and
exquisite lace, which was draped on the foundation in
such a manner that there was no visible fastening.
With this gown Mme. Brandes wore on her hnir, which
was dressed low. a cap of netted pearls finished at one
side with a wonderful ornament from which sprang a
Jeweled aigrette.
Anotlter gown was of a new shade "of green, called
" hanneton," a sort of coppery color, the material being
of silk gaune. The skirt of this was draped to form a
tunic, which was absolutely covered with embroidery
fn fine and heavy silks. There was a Mttle guimpe of
fine gold lace and full undersleevea of the name 'coming
from other an.l tight gauze sl-eves. From throat to
hem the dress fitted her like a glove, and yet It did not
in the least give the impression of being unduly snug.
With this costume she wore one of tho new shaped
mantles, which have just made their appearance and
which promise to he the rage for all winter where a
light shoulder covering is needed. It Is a "burnous."
Identically like those worn by women In India, and
which are to be found here now in various soft fabrics,
satin, chiffon, and occasionally In silk finished cash
mere. The one chosen by Mme. Brandes In "La Bampe "
was of satin, and it was bordered with, sable, narrow
cross the lower edge and wide at the top. Her ht,
too, in this act was a novelty, a sombrero of velvet In
the same unusual shade as the gown, cuught at one
side with a stunning fantaisle, in which gold was the
predominant tone.
On other costume of this actress must bo men
tioned as being a perfect example of a conventional
dinner gown. It was of the shade known as rose Uu
barry, combined with gold, "the material being bro
catelle. It showed a skirt slightly gathered on the
hips and druped a llttW at either side .over a petticoat
of cloth of gold. The bodice was deeply pointed front
and back and stiffly boned, and across the bust opening
over a chemisette of folded white tulle were revers of
trc silk cajight with brilliant buttons. The sleeves,
which reached tlie elbow, were treated in a similsr
manner. A long stung of diamonds to which was at
tached a small vanity Ihjx set with the same gems, aic."
a band of gold about tlrtTteud complete I un ideally per
fect toilet.
All the new evening clothes sliow less of short
draped effects and moro of long, clinging lines than they
did at the beginning of the Season. What drapery there
Is la frequently in the form of long scarfs, which are
held closely to the figure and, give one the air of really
classic elegance. These are arranged In various ways
according to the style of the individual, and whether,
one is tall or the reverse. Swne are knotted just above
the ground In front and have little or nothing In the
1 way of bows or the like. Others are caught about the
heel at the back and have a finish of hanging ends or
aoms gorgeous ornament to hold them In place. There
Is a distinct charm to there loose looking draperies
which one Is bound to recognise and which gowf.s of
our last year's fancy did not possess. They are all
vaguely suggestive of the lines of the figure beneath.
. and while they do not in the least hide it. they give
certain soft, plastic look that no s'teath costume ever
could.
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The bodices, too, lu many cane carry out the idea of
scarf drapery, for on these the material is frequently
wound and twlslt-d In a manner that baffles des'-rlption
and finished with long ends and loops in the back .or
with stole shaped pieces In front.
Other bodices, particularly those of brocade or satin,
have a sort of cuirass decoration made of embroidery,
f network, or of any clinging sty ft ot gold. These
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odd siuiped tr.mmiiigs seem to have nothing to 1j nitii
tlie rcniainJer of the costume and frequently look us if
they were put on as an after thought, or because of a
too plain effect of the gown. ' Just the same they are
Immensely smart, possibly because they are so queer.
As for materials, the first place must be given
to brocades, for they are omnipresent and are made
into gorgeous ball and dinner dresses, into simpler
costumes for evening wear, and also tnto frocks in
tended for tlie theater or dressy afternoon use. They
are to be seen in multitudinous designs, big. little, and
medium sised. and In a great many combinations of
colors, as well as self-toned effects. While quite ai
rich, these new brocades are not so unyielding as those
of years ago and they lend themselves to folds and
draperies which were Impossible In those of older
weaves. Many are almost as supple as satin and have
much tho same quality as the tiuer grades of liberty
This last mentioned material, too. Is among the first
favorites for evening wear and has entirely taken thu
place of crepe de chines, ninons. and, to a certain ex
tent, of charmeuse.. This season's offering is brilliant
in finish and pliable enough to render it amenable to
any style of gown. There has never been such a selec
tion of colors, from those that are as pronounced and
vivid as can be Imagined to those that are so subtle In
shading that they are nameless.
Next to white, which never loses its popularity and
is invariably first choice for evening wear, come all the
shades of bronxe. dull gold, and green. Any of these
when combined with gold embroideries or the passe
menteries and trimmings of gold and gorgeous Persian
colorings, make some of the most artittle costumes
that have been seen.
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Shovvxruf Ot
About the HesuX. anrf
Gold Roses Mat c
flAMMk PHOTO
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