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DXQ and evfrf line dominate th clothai
drslKiied this season for school wfar.
The vogue or the plain tailor made, three
piece suit Is everywhere strongly empha
sized, the plainer suits being: much more
popular than the fancy trimmed types.
trge Is the favorite material for these
SUltS. The two tnneri .r,. mrtli.
lariy smart and Homo novelties In .basket weave and
camel's hair efTcct have also met with favor. A num
ber of skated and Moused effects in the loosely woven
material are also' shown.
Until corsets are worn, however, no srhool !rl should
wear the strictly tailored suit, but "keep to the sus
pender or strap dresses or the simple one piece frocks
worn beneath a long half fitting coat.
A White v.-nlst or a silk bodice with a separate skirt
Is never .pretty If there Is no foundation to keep the
waist down snugly In the back and sides and' to keep
the skirt from slipping out of place. .
None of the newest tailored models are really, tight
fitting this 'year, so that pretty much tlie Kams style
of street dresses are worn by the school girl as are
worn by the grownups.
Now that plaited skirts are again In vogue for the
school girl as well as for -the grownup, particular atten
tion must be given the petticoat, for upon Its fit and
hang depends the eu-cess of the tailored stflrt. A
petticoat gathered on a ribbon or on a tape string tied
around the waist Is as great a detriment to a properly
fitting skirt as can well be Imagined. The present day
fashions demand that even the smallest girl have her
underskirt carefully tilted and well made.
A number of the tailor mades for school girls have
the shawl collar, and with the small sleeve worn now
adays a broad rever Is really necessary to give the cor
rect breadth across the shoulder line. These revers
re shon made of ottoman silk, moire, velvet, or of the
material Itself with trimmings of soutache braidings
or rows of stitching.
The sleeves are usually finished as the regulation
coat sleeve, with a few bands of stitching and two or
three cloth buttons, or If preferred may be adorned
with two Inch cuffs of the same material as the col
ls r and revers.
At one of the small fashionable shops the other day
I saw a number of attractive frocks for schoolgirls.
Slnyplk'ltyohad ben carefully prewerved. yet the frocks
had a certain dignity of outline suitable to the develop
ment of the figure during the last few years at school.
Cashmere was the favorite 'material, followed closely
by serge. All the frocks shown were In the one piece
eiyie, wnetner the belts were Indicated or not,
11 rastened In the hack.
une or ine most charmlmr rrn,il. I u.
tobacco brown serge, with a princess front showing cne
medium oroaa panel rrom bust to hem. This was out
with girdle at the sides. The yoke was of white
ret braided In soutsrhe, from which two revers of the
material turr.ed back Into a deep v. one crossing over
the other and running down under 'the girdle. The"
ng. tight sleeve had a turn bak cuff. At the Insldo
elbow there were three tucks, .flic back of the skirt
wss plain ar.d close fitting, with fullness riven by In
verted plaits at the buck of the placket. Plplnge of
elf-tor.ed taffeta edced the revers, girdle, and ruff.
This style of gown will be found particularly becoming
to a slender figure, as It has a glrllshness that Is moit
attractive.
In regard to separate coats the tendency Is not so
Strong toward the Moyen age effect ss It has been dur
ing the early part of the season. The full length gar
ment without side plaits and giving the sli:n hip sp
pearsnre Is much more In favor.
These coats are shown in soft, l ixurlant. warm stu'Ts
tn w-onderfully blended browns, vilt'T glints of autumn
green and gold running almost Invlsihly through the
russet shades. Fuch subtly mixed nreens and smoked
grays, such delightfully warm fawrs anj hrowrs
colors that do not show the soil and are delightfully
warm and comfortable looking on a cod dry.
No achool girl's outfit Is ecnplet without a raincoat.'
Attractive models are shown this season in colors or
flashing out fascinating touches of cqlor In checks and
tripes. Jaunty little ralncapea, too, have flutter 1
late fiepularlty this season. These are nearly all clr-
and
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hliailu. These are also h!iov n In military style
with trimmings of gold buttons and ncariet linings.
The loose blouse, always so attractive when warn by
'lie young girl, has corne again Into vogue and promises
lo he a smart feature for s. hool girls. A model which
.vas seen the other day consisted of the blouse and the
ide plaited skirt. The blouse filled snootlily across
the chest and shoulders and closed at the left aide of
the front. At each side eitendlng over the shoulder
was a wide tuck In Olbson style, stltohed the entire
h ngth of the blouse, front and back. A Jaunty pocket
ornamented the front. The neck was high and finished
with a standing collar.
The fullness of the blouse was confined to Uie wslst
with a belt of the material, the sleeves were comfort
ably full from the jhoulders to the elbows, and ar
ranged from this point to the wrist in an Inverted plait
In the back. The skirt was made with a straight lower
edge In plaits.
A dress of this type Is so practical and Is adapted for
development In so many different materials that there
need be no difficulty In selecting one that Is service
able and nt the same time becoming.
The smart woolen suitings are of course the most
practical fabrics to select for general wear. The
straight rklrt makes a border on the material a pleas
ing possibility. Then thore are the wldewale diagonal.
In one or two tones, camel's hair, cheviot, bedford cord
chevron serge, prunella cloth, homespun, panoma, and
mohair, any one of which would prove a desirable
choice.
The sailor suit has always been a popular mlt with
school girls and It has become quite a fad among the
school girls to wear sailor suits for almost every kind
of an occasion recitations, tramps, and on their shop
ping Jaunts.
Another smart model, and newer than the sailor or
the coat dress. Is whnt Is called the "co-ed dress."
mis is made somewhat on the Moyen age style
nas a turner up portion which -lves the effeet
tunic in fishwife style. Every girl Is sure to greet this
dress with enthusiasm, and It is especially becoming
to one of rather an athletic build.
The yoke skirt which has occupied such a promi
nent place In women's garments Is Just ss extensively
worn by schoolgirls, tvhile many plain, scant tailored
skirts are to be seen, there Is a areat Increase noticed
"i ine.nare anil the amount of materia! employed
the newest models, and. on the whole, the nlalted
is the more In favor than the one too severely cut.
There Is the most varied assortment of designs
among these plaited models, some giving a panel ef
fect front and back, formed of two three-Inch hog
plaits, which are opened out Just below the knees,
while again there are displayed many of the long, fa
miliar run skirts, with plaits an Inch or so spurt.
lasrenea down to a little lielow the knees. Pj
there the material Is permitted to flare out wldelv
s' Most frequently, however, the upper part of these
skirts Is compound of a plain fitting yoke, while at
the knees Is a plaited flounce under a bias band or
fold of the cloth put on to hide the Joining.- In fact,
there Is no limit to the vagaries of the walking
rain or ir.e moment, ana ine more Ingenloul
combination i T Put effects shout ths hips with
ness below the knees, the more desirable. All these
skirts are made four Inches from the ground.
All exaggeration In regard to the length of the line
above the natural waist line has disappeared, and on
msny strictly tailor made skirts there Is a return to
the one-Inch belt, the waist line always being- In the
normal position.
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