Image provided by: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries, Lincoln, NE
About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 28, 1909)
Ji 10 TTTE OMAHA SUVPAY PKK : NOVEMBER 2. 1f0!". n Christmas Fair of the Churches To be held in the Court of the Bee Building Six churches will hold a fair beginning Dec. 1, continuing a week, 1 1 ! i GETTING HATS ON STRAIGHT It Seems Easy, but Skill is Required to Adjust Headgear Properly. MATCHING THE FACE TO THE HAT Decorations that Sonic Womrn Should Atold Hatpins of the llliht Kind Mood of Wearer Is an Influence. "I'm sure I don't know what we Khali be teaching next," said a woman whom people employ by the hour to make them beautiful. "Now we are telling- women how to put on the hat. "Now putting on the hat may seem Quite a Blmple thing; but actually It Is complex, railing Into requisition many Df the crafts, most of the art and at leant two trade.", not counting the beauty pro tection. It Isn't a case of sotting your hat on top of your head and spiking It fast with your favorite hat p!n. It Is rather a case of adjustment with an Intimate knowledge of Jour own possibilities. "Take the tall, round Russian huts the toquea of the season. They must be worn with both a will and a way. "The tall, round Russian hat, whether eX fur or of cloth, requires a clear skin. It must never he worn by the woman who Is cither nervous or tired. Being brimlees, ll displays the lines in the face, tnd being rather severe In its outline, it brlnr expression Into prominence. It should be worn only on those days when a woman is sure of her complexion never the morning after a ball or the afternoon after a long luncheon In a hot room. "Wo prepare the complexion for certain furs. Worth would never allow a woman of late middle years to wear brown. Much less would he let her wear mink furs next her face. Yet one sees elderly and munh over dressed ladles with tall toques of rnlnk fur set defiantly above their much bewrlnkled foreheads. The brownish yel low in the mink furs brings out every trace of yellowish brown In the skin, and there are complexions that look positively mottled with yellow when seen in juxta position to yellow brown furs. Mama list to the Wearer. "Even worse is the black fur toque, which requires a akin like alabaster. With a pure white skin with Just a trace of red the black fur hat Is adorable. But unless the skin Is of the clear white type with Just enough pink to shine In the cheeks the result Is deplorable. "But I was going to speak more specially cf the trick of putting on the hat, the art as 1 will call It. I am called upon to come at certain hours and adjust the hat. I receive the order by telephone, and at the spoplnted time I put in my arpe-arauce at the residence of the ludy. "I find her in her dressing room, hat 111 hand, struggling with a multitude of hat pins and, usually, with a veil also. I take her In hand. My first remark Is this: Tom Into the diawing room, where you can see yourself at full length. Never put en your hat without seeing yourself In your entirety. You cannot behold your dress at the same time." "I take her Into the drawing room or Into the reception hall or wherever the long mirror In the house may be found, and then I take the hat In my hand. 'Walk.' I say to the lady. And she walks. "Come toward me,' 1 say. And she advaucea toward me. 'Stop,' com Dec. 1st and 2d "SSSST Dec. 3d and 4th SSSXteHan Dec. 6th and 7th mt ' Here are Embroidered Goods Towels, rag rugs, dish towels, doilies, hand hemmed kitchen aprons, handker chiefs, cotton hags. Traveling Conveniences Fancy silk hags, collar hags and hoxes, comforters. Hand made raffia and rattan baskets, very unique. Fancy aprons, stocks and collars. mand I. And he stops. And then, there, Just as she stands, I place tho hat upon her head. " 'Walt,' said the lady to me last even ing as I was arranging a concert hat upon her head. 'That is the wrong side. The velvet bow should be directly at the back.' " 'Not this time, madam,' I replied. "Your hair is built out very wide at the left side, so your hat should turn up a little on that side. The bow will Just set off your coiffure at the side." " 'But, said she, "it is Impossible. I cannot wear my hat crooked. It will be ridiculous. " 'You are wrong,' I said, 'and I will prove It to you.' "And hastily ripping out the lining, 1 showed her the. inner side of the hat. It had a Paris label in the inside and the marking showed that last year the hat had been worn sideways. This season it had simply been turned a liitle to one sidu and the trimming rearranged. " 'You se I am right," I said. 'The hat will fit your had either way.' I then spiked the hat fast, bent it a little to fit the halrdi easing, and when It was In place, adjusted rightly, I fitted a veil to it. The result was charming. Tricks Practiced In France. "I learned this trick of turning the hat from a Pails milliner. 'Our hats are all built to be worn cither way.' she said, 'though we do not advertise this fact to the American trade. When a French lady Is out of complexion, when her face feels drawn and her eyes are dull, she turns the hat around so that It throws a wide shade upon her face. But when she Is at her best she wears !t In such a way that It turns up ut the side and presents a chic nrd slightly tilted appearance at the front. No French woman would think of owning a hat that could not be reversed.' "As for making up the face, I invariably do It fter the hat Is on. Most women wear the hat too far back from the face. Hats have a tendency to work back a lit tle, and unless they are set pretty well forward they are soon flying far back from the face. Few faces are sufficiently lovely to bear the test of a hat that sets too far back. "1 take a hat and set it well front. Of tin I place it right upon the forehead. I then put In the pins, and for the purpose of holding the hat In place I use small black ard white hat pins of the kind that come at a cent each. I use half a doien of thtse, selecting white heads or black heads as may best suit the trimming. I pusn thim well into the hat, so that they are quite invisible. "Few ladles use a sufficient number of hatpins of the right sort. They select the expensive and easily broken ptns, and with these they try to keep the hat on. i t couise the pins bend and fail to do their work and the hat does not long slay anchored to its moorings. "I believe In rouge what beauty exper' does not? and of course I think that a lady should powder and pencil a little. I take my customer after ner hat Is put on and I almost kalsomiue her face. I soap It well and I rub It with, hot meal until it is as clean as It can be. Then I dash !t with milk, and when It is dry I rub In the powder. I do this all. If you can believe me. after the hat la on. It is a matter of working daintily and carefully. "My recipe for making up a face for a hat and veil is thl.-: Take of soap and cornmeal enough to clear the skin of dust and other pore Impurities. Follow with enough cold cream to make the face shiny. Take off the shine with plenty of good face powder of a color to match your skin, and then put on less than a hint of rouge. You are now ready for your hat and veil some of the And, If well done, your face will be be witching. When to Adjust Headgear. "I advise ..omen to put on the hat as soon as the gown Is on. Don't wait until you have put on your Jewelry, your beads, your earrings and your other fixings. Ar range your hat first and observe the ef fect. The chances are that by the time you are dressed your hat will have slid back six inches, or. worse still, have set tled down over one ear. Better know it In the privacy of your chamber than to go forth and have the world judge you by your hat. "The fringe upon your forehead must be fluffy. If your hair Is not banged though most hair is slightly banged these days you can resort to hairpin curls or a tiny fringe. Better to sew the fringe In the front of your hat than to depend upon hairpins. You need not take off your hat, you know, and the frinse will blow In the most natural manner if sewed In your hat. "Don't wear a veil with a small hat. It Interferes with the lashes and gives the eyes a hard and strained look. "Don't wear a colored veil, at least not a purple one. The face takes on the tone of the veil always, and no woman wants a face that Is purple or blue or even brown. One can be reconciled to a silvery tone, but one doesn't sigh to look green or gray. "When you put on your hat try to see yourself as others see you, which Is from all four points of the compass. "I believe that the putting on of a hat is a matter of Inspiration and 1 advise women to pray for such Inspiration. I can tell a woman how to put on her hat with wide brim and sweeping feathers. But if she will visit me and bring her hat alorg I will adjust it for her. She will need to bring half a dozen fancy hat pins and as many fancy hair pins. I put the hat on and arrange the fancy pins afterward, when ever there is a vacant apace. ' I believe in putting on puffs and braids, earrings and chains, coiffure ornaments and all other head trimmings after the hat Is on. Only in that way can one look com plete. "Few women know enough to match the atock to the hat. yet Just here lies the completeness of the ensemble. The bow at the back of the neck or the pin which secures the stock Just at the necks nape should match the back of the hat, as I can Illustrate. "A woman came In here wearing a stun ning brown velvet toque with a great brown bow right In the middle of the back. The bow was wide and It formed actually the whole back of the head. But the ef fect was poor. The hat was good, but there was no style. "I began by grooming the back of the woman's neck. I make a baker's dozen of little neck curls to make the back of the head look youthful. Then I put on a very small tulle rosette and In the middle 1 set a dull gold pin with a brown stone In the center. "In the woman's ears I put topai and right under her chin I set a pearl. I pinked the tip of her chin and the lobes of her eurs. And( as she was opposed to rvgue I had to do the work with a bit of ice. Ice pinks the cheeks, the chin and the ears. Wrap a silver of Ice In a bit of linan cloth and try it for yourself. , IteisaasBl of the Uuk, A colored man died without medical at tendance, and the coroner went to in vestigate. "Old Samuel Wiliams live hereT" he asked the weeping woman who opened the door. "Yeesuh," she replied between Sobs. "I want to see the remains." "I Is de remains." she answered proudly. Everybody's Magazine. articles to he offered at Luncheon 11:30 to 2 p. m. every day Sandwiches Doughnuts and Coffee, 20c HUNTING BIRDS THAT BURROW Potting the Ti-Ti a Queer New Zea land Industry. s EVOLUTION OF A SOUTH SEA SPORT indent Maoris Tested Petrel's Tooth, soinenesa and ow He Is tnaxht at Alaht and Laboriously Cooked In fnrloos Way. KAN FRANCISCO, Nov. 27. They are "mutton birding" bark In New Zealand now. On rocky fangs of Islets the hunters are encamped. There the birds are nesting; where the keen winds snarl and scream up from the Antartlc Ice the petrels In hundreds of thousands blacken the beaches and bays. The cold shadow of the hunter la over the land and the slaughter of the Innocents proceeds apace. A quaint trade Is this bird hunting In the southern ocean, a trade that dates back before the advent of the white man and before the whalers fioin old Salem had reached these stormy shores. Back Into the days when the Maori was lrd in the land and his food supply was likely to be a trifle precarious. H was almost a vegetal ian's paradise In those days, this land of Aotea (the place of "white daylight.") It was a land almost without llesh meats. Truly, there was flesh meat at times, but that was after a battle. one of the most characteristic of Maori food supplies Is mutton bird. It is considered a great delicacy both by whites and natives. Tender and toothsome, It requires a pecu liar style of cooking. It is luscious, and fat, with a taste like fish fed goose or a duck with a red herrlr.g drawn across tne liavor. In the autumn the hunters come from far and near and gather on the mainland of the South Island. In fur off days they came with paddle and canoe, now they come In railway trucks. What genius first called this petrel a mutton bird is not recorded in ?ocal history. The bird, scien tifically described. Is of the genus of puffin (Pufflnus giiteuls) and Is a common species on the New Zealand coast, around the Antartlc Islands, on Stewart Island and the southern mainland. It is affirmed that the birds all lay their eggs on the same day. usually about November JS. If an egg fails to hatch the Maoris believe that the hen bird Im mediately lays another. The birds re turn year by year to the same spot, and to the same burrow. When the young biids are hatched and half grown they are thickly covered with down of a light gray color. So fat are thev thai when I y are held up by the feet pure oil of sardines will run from their beaks. This I ,he Maoris look on as a great delicacy. Holding the birds up they let it run into their mouth. If by chance a robber hand encounters i one of the old birds when exploring the burrows trouble ensues. They are fierce righters In defense of their homestead, rights. They will even lay down their lives In battle for their rooftree. At all limes they ate more nocturnal than diurnal In their feeding habits. The shades of night see them leave for their food grounds. When returning hcn.e, laden, they utter a crv like "Te! I Tee!'" from which the Maori name TI-TI Is derived. The noise around these I rookrles after nightfall Is deafening. It I resembles an exaggerated chorus of squalling children and lovelorn cats. I In power of flight the mutton bird excels. Home Books Baby Supplies From July to November they are out at sea. In November they come ashore to their breeding grounds, sometimes on the steep sides of the Islands, thus chosen by the birds for purposes of easier flight. The fat bird experiences a certain diffi culty In ascending from the level plain. When the parent birds come in from the sea they are very fat and pugnacious. If they fall in defense by biting and scratching they vomit a mess of oily mat ter on their assailant of such a nauseous oclor that the argument Is settled instantly by his disgusted flight. Year after year the birds return in gieat flight. A ship has been known to steam thirty miles through masses of mut ton birds resting upon the water and ex tending three to four miles on each side of the vessel. The mysterious birds arrive at the breed ing grounds in countless myriads, no one knows whence. A black cloud of birds roccntly reported as seen on a southern New Zealand river resembled a swarm of bees. It was computed there were forty acres covered with birds, all swimming slowly up the liver. They continued to ad vance tli the flock reached the battle ments of a bridge. One bird, fluttering up, struck the bridge and was hurled back Into the water. Tills sounded the slgnsl to retire and the vast swarm rose as an army till their density shut out the heavens. Immediately upon their departure the banks and breaches were strewn with sardines. From this small fish the mutton birds extract the oil and store It to feed their young. When the old birds arrive at the nesting burrows after a fishing expedi tion they place their beaks Inside the gaping months of the young and dis gorge the oil. To capture the fat nestlings uninjured is the chief object of the bird hunters. The natives are very careful not to dis turb the burrows when taking the young birds. It is a profitable Industry and is the sole right of the natives. Before the hun ters leave for the hunting grounds they spend some time In preparing the storage bags. These are prepared from a species of seaweed. Bags of kelp are made in whh'h the harvest of seabirris wll' be stored. The bugs are blown up. tied and left to dry, then flattened out and packed for the passage across the straits. When the early settlers came Into the Southland the money chance of the Maori arrived. Shipping came with them, and the Maori, being a shrewd bargainer, took his pressed birds to a merchant and had them forwarded to a portwhere there was a good maiket, receiving In exchange flour and sugar, considered dainties in those days. The hunters often t.ike as many as from V) to fiJ0 biids a day. Tho season lasts any time from six weeks to three months When the hunters reach the islands they go out In the daytime to locate the bur rows. They look under what they call the mutton bird tree (Senecio Kotutidl lotto), a tree whose tough leaves are sent away from the islands as post card. Oathciing the birds entails a lot of labor. They are handled In all nine times. They are caught, plucked or scalded to remove the down, coohd. opened, salted again and ayuln, both d In oil, and then put down In their own fat. The nestlings were formei ly removed fiom the burrows on the end of a i-plit stick pushed Into the burrows till the bird was felt. By the old method the stick was twisted into the bird's down and the bird brought to the light of day, but gently for fear of Injury. Now they dog for them. To kill bis vic tim the hunter takes the bird's head be tween pis teeth and bites It hard. This Made Canned Fruits Jellies, Jams, Marmalade, Cakes, Home Made Dread, Mincemeat, Home Made Candy. the fair: Cook Book, recipes tried hy the ladies of Omaha. Book of Candy Recipes. Label Books. Hand Recipe and Address Books, Children's dresses and skirts, lingerie, Flowers, dressed dolls, Japanese articles. method prevents the oil from oozing out of the bird's beak and spoiling the flesh, and does not break the skin. Then, with the bird's own bill the skin of the crop is cut and the oil bag removed and cast away before It spoils the flavor. Each bird is plucked roughly as It Is captured. Whon a largo number have been obtained thoy are carried to camp, where the down Is tinged over a fire. ' To cook them In older, times a tree was felled, then hollowed out, and the fat from the entrails was put into the trough. Hot stones were, thrown ii:to it till the fat boiled, then the birds were placed In the trough and kept boiling till cooked. Flattened out, placed In a bag of Itelp, covered with their own fat, they are packed In a roll of bark and are ready for the market. Thess bark rolls hold from twenty-five to a hundred birds each. The hunter removed the wings with one cut of his obsidian or volcanic glass knife, and threw them away. Covered as they are with fat and air tight, they will keep any time. After the Maoris have been on the Island for about five weeks, during which time the slaughter of the younsters has gone on apace, the hunters obtaining a squab from nearly every burrow, the old birds make up their minds that their duties are about ended and prepare to go on the northern mlBation. The young birds thus left to fuce a cruel world leave their holes through hunger and roost on the low branches of trees, where they fall an easy victim to a marauding Maori and a torch. The unfortunate victim Just sits and gogies at his captor with the strange light. If the Maori In his midnight rambles finds a white bird (and there are often albinos) It Is held to presage death. As one of the Maori's characteristics consists in dying whenever he says he Is going to do so the presentment Is usually fulfilled. A tale is told of a party of bird hunters who proposed reembarklng from an anual outing one short In number, but the skipper of the keteli that hore them across the straits refused to leave without a seurch. The lost one, a girl, was found. She had gone mad and was running about nude with a dead bird held 1y the head dang ling from her mouth. From these annual hunting parties earn man will return with up to seventy pounds t.. i:. mi. i ... ..... uiuii, iny nuuters may capture as many as 400 or 6O0 a day. jet there is no visible decrrase In next year's arriving multitudes. Tin; Maori calls these potted birds "Mau hau." The season Just closed has returned approximately 2o0,0ot) birds as compared with liO.000 the season before. As a food delicacy the mutton bird is KIDNEYS ACT FINE AND BACKACHE GOES AFTER TAKING A FEW DOSES Out-of-order Kidneys are reflated and the most severe Bladder misery vanishes. Out-of-order kidneys net fine ami back ache or bladder misery is relieved after a few doses of Pape's Diuretic. Pains in the bail;, sides or loin", rheu matic twinges, debilitating headache, nervousness, dlzglfic. ilcrpiessness. in flamed or swollen eyelHs. wornoui feel ing and many other symptoms of clogged, Inactive kidneys simply vanish. Frequent painful .tnd uncontrollable urination due to a weak or Irritable blad der Is promptly overcome. The moment you suiipod any kiiiney, bladder or urinary disorder, or feel rheu matism coming, begin taking thlss harm less remedy, with the Knowledge that there Is no other medicine, at any price. held In high esteem In New Zealand. Given public, knowledge of its edible qual ity it would charm tho world's epicures. There must be careful cooking. Tho bird must be cooked In special utensils, for his savour comes to stay. First the bird must be boiled for an hour slowly. Then It should be grilled or baked. A morsel of cold mutton bird to a Imn ery man Is a something fit for the gods. In the best hotels the bird is served in season. Lucky is the New Zealander whose native acquaintances consider him enough to send along a cask of that pre pared sea bird whose haunt is the southern coasts of this southern land. DEATH DOES NOT END ALL On ftclentlst Hmyu the Spirit Leaves the Body Mevent-Mx Honrs A f ternard. That dctath does not end life, and that It does not end even consciousness, were two conclusions which the chairman of the psychology section of the Medico-Legal so ciety placed before the members of that society at the New York meeting. It was tho only scientific speech of the evening. Discussion of this speech was cut short, but not before a member rose to relate that as a physician lie had learned that man was a spirit, that his body was a mere dwelling place, to be moved about at will. and that at death, he had observed, the spirit left the body seventy-six hours after ward. The main speaker was Floyd B. Wilson, 1. 1,. D. lie remarked that new things might be Intultlonally recognized as truths before being practically demoiiKtiated. Then he . declared : ".Scientifically It has been proved that deatli does not end life and Individual con sciousness. I claim that It has been proved to the, complete satisfaction of the most exacting of scientific men that those who have passed through what we call death have spoken and Identified themselves to the mortal sphere. "I claim that if the published records of Investigators are carefully examined there Is only one of two conclusions to be arrived at. That either these InvestlKatlons, work lug sometimes In groups ami sometimes alone, In altnoU every civilized nation In the world, are to be put down as liars, or that life has been proved to be continuous, and that those who have passed through the change called death live and preserve their Individual entity." He held that life Is not only continuous, but that the individual may pass through several or many Incarnations. New York World i made anywhere else In the world, which will effect so thorough and prompt a cure, as a fifty-cent treatment of Pape's Diuretic, which any druggist can supply. This unusual preparation goes direct to the out-of-order kidnys, bladder and uri nary system. cleaning. healing and strengthening these organs and glands, and completes tha cure before you realize It. A few duys' tresiine.it with Tape's Diu retic means clean, actlv healthy kHieys. bladder and urinary organs and you feel fine. Your phjsl'ii-i, pliarm i.ist, ha-iker or any mercantile agency vlll tell you that Pape. Thompson & Pane, of Cincinnati, Is a largo and responsible nuJiclne concern, thoroughly worthy of your confidence. Accept only Pape's Dlurellc flfty-rsnt treatment from any drug store any where in the world. Ad. v l 'i s 'I V