THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEK: SEPTEMBER 19, 1909. ' . B ,
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REAL OLD ENGLAND, THIS
Notei of a Summer Trip to the York
shire Coast.
BATH UNDEK LOCAL CONDITIONS
Plrtaresqae Places and Habits Along;
the German Ocean The SnmlleM
C'harrh Somewhat Sombre
Rimtlxh Merrj making.
SALTPURN, En., Sept. 8.-Have you
In late yearn experienced the rarity in
Kuropo'of enoapliiK the American tour
ists In ummr time travelling? It can
be done here In Yorkshire and It seems al
most a wonder, so ubiquitous is Jonathan
on his holidays In these times. He is so
scarce anion the Cleveland Hills, how
ever, that the natives don't know him
from a Russian.
It may be said with confidence that the
Imperious American traveller has made qp
impression on the conditions of life here
ibout albeit In the neighboring and mod
ern town of Middlesbrough Yankee ideas
have so far been adopted or adapted by
the Yorkshlremen that upon quitting, the
railway station one gets quite the, feeling
f having suddenly stepped from an Eng
lish railway carriage Into a western
American- hustling town. The traveller
looks about in mild confusion until he
learns that Middlesbrough as It Is Is the
rrowth of a generation. It seems In no
say a part of the old England around It.
Even where modernity has made head
nay elsewhere In the vicinity, as at Sun
burn or other of the seashore resorts,
there Is a clinging prlmltlveness all per
vading that takes the edges from the new
iharp bricks and dulls the bright new
ness of modern provincial elegance. The
presence of a cabinet minister and a mem
ber of Parliament as summer residents
high on- the splendid esplanade cannot
lake from old Saltburn, nestling at the
foot of Huntcliff, the aroma of ancient
days of romance and adventure, days of
smuggling, of hardy fishers, of shipwreck
and struggles with the sea which in times
of storm and of extreme tide washes into
the old houses and the old Ship inn
tacked against the Inhospitable cliff.
While Old Saltburn was nothing but a
fishing village and negligible by its neigh
bors, the newer Saltburn, the summer re
sort. Is looked upon by them as an up
start. Saltburn, to give Itself airs. Indeed,
as a resort of people who can go sum
mering at the seaside In the face of its
elder and most worthy neighbors who
have been established on the soli there
many generations, who figure In Domes
day Book and were post villages on the
royal roads when It was a forsaken prom
ontory of the German ocean! " Hadn't
Vpletham these many years the reputa
tion of being as bonnie a village as you'd
find In the realm, with the boast of never
a public house In Its precincts, while its
neighbor, CJulsborough the ancient Guys
bourne with twenty-two. "pubs" had
never a drunken man on the street an
achievement In virtue characterizing Salt
burnT :
With only three places dispensing liquor,
Saltburn, or at least a part of It, drinks
like the thirsty sands that swallow Its roll
ing tides In a beach 1.000 feet wide and ex
tending for several miles to and past the
next coast towns.- It may be the excellent
beach which leads sojourners to do more
bathing at Saltburn than Is to be seen at
most English resorts, yet It is a treach
erous coast and takes it tribute of swim
mers annually. Three persons this season
so far have been drowned.
It makes an American laugh and then
angry at the stupidity to which this loss
of life Is due, the arrangement for bath
ing at this admirable beach. Of course
the clumsy, antiquated bathing machines
are In use, except that during certain hours
men, women and children may, if they wish
and In fact they do undress and dress In
the open air on the vast reaches of these
sands and go In bathing without the popu
lar bathing suit used at this period Is
worthy of notice. A single piece usually,
for men and women alike, it will go in Its
entirety Into a paper peanut bag, and some
of the lightest ones for men may practi
cally be rolled between the fingers like a
cigarette. One costs a shilling, or one quite
fulfilling the regulations may even be
bought for nlnepence. .
It may mildly interest some who study
political wickedness at home to learn that
the reason for limiting the hours when peo
ple may go bathing without the machines
Is ascribed to the membership In the local
council of the one man who owns all the
machines here. In return, however, he pre
scribes the safety of users of his machines
by Informing them that unltsa they come
In shore when "J. W." toots his horn he
will "not be responsible" for them. As the
horn toots as soon as you have reached a
denth of water somewhat above your knees
the fun of the game is quickly apparent.
And how solemn It all is. None of the
Joyous shouts of era bathers, in the I'nltrd
States, where they seem to have fun hi
the ocear). but one dull, silent occasion, as
though this bathing were the performance
of a rigid duty. And nowhere a float, no
where a diving board or post, nowhere
ropes to mark the safety limits and serve
as aides to the weak; not even a lifeboat
In the water or a professional swimmer at
hand.
Hack among the bathing machines on
the beach la the sole boat, resting be
tween two wheels ready for launching
through the breakers. The men to man
it T Maybe they are there; if they are
they are beautifully inconspicuous. Hut
of course there's J. W.'s horn.
Hut solemn as It all is there are dis
tractions at this resort too. The beach
is the scene of all sorts of games. Any
number of cricket matches are going on in
the sand, with foot ball and clcycle rid
ing, kite flying and more. Hundreds of
people, old and young, have dug hollows
and raised back rests for themselves in
the rand to enable themselves to lie or sit
lu comfort and see what is going on and
still be sheltered from the strong winds.
The pierrots are hare, the plerrots with
out whom the English seaside resort Is
not complete. Here at Saltburn, as al most
plaoea nowadays, these London or pro
vincial muslo hall performers having their
summering and making their living at the
same time, wear yachting suits, otherwise
blue coats and caps and white trousers.
as they give their open air performances
on the beach. Further on at Hedear the
plerrots wear the old, familiar . white
I'Urrot costume with the conical hat. Al
though given In the open air, there are
seals and aamall stage tor these per
formances and the spectators who take
seats pay a small fee. One may stand up
and enjoy the performance gratis, but one
la Goualderctl very small Indeed If la that
case one declines to drop a small coin in
the, cap which before the end of the per
formance one of the plerrots passes around.
I'sually the plerrots are all men. They may
have one woman with them.
In a walk along the great beach to
Marske or Redcar a beach that could
no more be crowded than one could im
agine the North river crowded, even if It
lay at the gates of a great cltyi one comes
upon a sport which may be peculiar to
these strands. It Is sand yachting, and
the broad, smooth, hard beach gives
splendid opportunity for It, especially
at low tide. The sand yacht Is a strutv
ture made of four bicycle wheels with
pneumatic tires of course, lightsy con
nected as for the understructure ofa car
riage, but no carriage body is placed upon
this light skeleton. Instead a seat Is built
above the rear axle and a mast is stepped
above the forward axle.
The mast carries a three cornered sail,
controlled from the seat.-'Where the opera
tor or sailor also controls the fore wheels,
by which he steers, moving them by a
rope. These sand yachts make good
speed over the sands and seem to offer
good sport, scudding to the water's edge,
tacking up the beach, manoeuverlng at
the will of the rider and occasionally at
the caprice of the wind, It must be said.
Of nil the advantages of Saltburn as a
delectable seashore resort, none Is greater
than that It derives from Its situation
within walking distance of some of the
most charming towns and villages, while
by rail one can visit any of a score of
beautiful and histoilcal places for the
modest price of -a few pence, or two shill
Ings at the most. It Is astonishing to an
American to find the number of excur
sions these railroads run at what Stems
a nominal cost. Think of going fifty
miles a"hd bac for BO cents. Whitby,
with Its fine ruin of St. Hilda's (seventh
century) Abbey costs only about half that.
And Interesting persons are to be en
countered almost anywhere on the way.
"Yes," snld a contemplative Yorkshire
man visiting the town, as he stood In one
of Whitby's precipitous streets looking up
at the appaling approach of 199 steps to
the abbey, "yes, I know now what an
eloquent preacher from Whitby, whom I
heard once meant when he said mat had
to'struggle up to God, but could tumble
Into a tavern. It's true here."
There are other contrasts In Whitby,
however. Could there be a more pleasing
street or house name than Flowergate? We
came upon It at & turn of a road leading
to the liver and determined to have a
look In. Among all the squalid places Im
aginable there are certainly some as dis
tressing as Flowergate, but they do not
usually have to belle their names so
shamelessly. The place beneath this floral
label wus filled with brats and the evi
dences, of wash day, not to mention cer
tain washing left undone.
Some Whitby shop windows carry the
visitor back to childhood, to small and
solemn interior communities and to days
and places of conspicuous and oppresive
mourning. For they are filled with Jet,
the Whitby Jet, Jet Jewelry and adorn
ments of all sorts. The Whitby Jet natur
ally suggests the neighboring fossils, and it
is curiously interesting 'to find that here
aboutsand hereabouts alone. It Is said-
one may come across in the rocks the
fossil nautilus, the same nautilus exactly
which is to be seen In the surrounding
waters, the same Jaunty little chap whose
sail is said to have suggested the pattern
of the sails of the first ships.
Have you fancied that the town crier is
In these days of newspapers a thing of the
past? Not so in Whitby, where he Jangles
his bell and cries the news and the lost
as of yore. Only It Is to be said that usu
ally the news has gained circulation in trie
town before the crier bruits It aroimd.
And It Isn't only shoemakers' children
who go barefoot in these wilds as else-
wnere, it one may stretch the saying a
little. Here we are at any of these coast
towns right In the midst of the lobsters,
so to speak. But can we get a live lobster?
Not at a hotel, restaurant or market. Th
lobster Is rarely found In the bills of fare.
The shop windows are filled with boiled
ones. If you happen to be down at the
landing when the fishermen come in in
their cobles or smacks you can get a live
lobster if you are quick about it. Other
wise the fishers Immediately proceed to
boll them, after which they may be sold
at more leisure.
I asked In a restaurant at Saltburn if
they would serve me with a lobster If
brought one in. They seemed to think the
suggestion extraordinary, but many said
yes, if I "fancied" one, they would, if
would have some tea and bread and butter
with It. And this in the country where
they brew ale and drink it, too!
In some of the places they still auction
the fish catch in bulk on arrival or In the
morning, and the fish are later sold at re
tail from door to door by the wholesale
purchaser. The fisherman's Jargon Is too
much for any ear but a native' one. To
hear a group of fishers talking the stranger
would never think that they were speaking
English, the accent Is so strong and the
enunciation so thick, even worse tnaii iu
the ordinary Yorksliireman. Even keen
listening will scarcely enable an American
to recognize aa accastonal familiar English
word. ,
Of course the local pronunciation of
proper names in England is an a'ld story,
and yet the Jar is not Inconsiderable at
hearing Stalthea pronounces Steers. It
seems easy afterward to hear Ruswarp pro
nounced Russ-up. The staithes are the
quays, but in this Instance they have given
nar.e to the place, fine of the most pic
turesque of fishing villages, located at the
foot of precipitous cliffs.
But of all the Journeys about this part
of the Cleveland district the walks are
prbbably the most attractive, delightful,
Invigorating, Inviting the walk to Marske
along the sards, or to Redcar, the Inland
walks to Vpletham, GlnsUorough and the
rest: Guisborough with Its twenty-two
public houses and no drunkards. Us Im
posing luins of the I'rlory. Its Inns that
have scarcely changed since It lay on the
post ruad of the Whitby and York
coaches. Its delightful landscape at the
border of the great Yorkshire moors. Its
respectable and established middle class
feeling of superiority to the modern busi
ness community of Middlesbrough, and the
upstart pretenrions (aa Guisborough views
the matter) of the new Saltburn. Oh, It's
a part of Old England to rejoice one's soul
and titillate one's rlslbles, alternately, this.
One characteristic of the Yorkshire peo
ple whom the casual traveler encuunteis
on the roads cannot fail to strike him by
the contrast It affords to the general a'li
tude of the English one meets similarly in
the cities, and even In small communities
of the south of the Island. This Is the af
fability, almost sociability of the native
upon his encounter with the stranger. Ap
parently these people of the north are iu
th. respect of habits and ideas similar to
those of the Americans, and It prompts
the Inquiry whether at an earlier day these
customs characterized the England that
cvlvuUed the states, and wuvlbtr the Eos-
LaaaZ: i ', " V - ""TZIi .i, i ,--
1910
toddaFd-Day ton
AW onderf id Product! The Motor Car Without An Equal at Any Price!
U STRONG. STATEMENT? Yes! It is
JUL
intended to be strong. No use mincing
words about an established fact. It cannot be
made too strong !
Owners and users of "Stoddard-Dayton"
Motor Cars know this statement to be true.
We want every Prospective Owner of
an Automobile to know it too.
The 4tStoddard-Dayton" always always
mark you, has been a good car. Every succeed
ing year it has been a good car bettered. And
every year it has led the advance of American
Automobile progress.
IN 1910 MODELS, as usual, the "Stoddard
Dayton" is the Car "Away Ahead." It
possesses all the tried and true excellence of
former years combined with the most advanced
accomplishments in the Automobile and
Mechanical world.
The manufacturers never cease in their
efforts to maintain the reputation of "the best
absolutely the best Motor Car in the World,
irrespective of price." From the beginning their
aim has been, the "highest grade car at the low
est price." In the 1910 "Stoddard-Daytons"
this high standard is attained as never before.
In Hill Climbing, Ihe supreme test of super
iority, the "Sloddard-Dayton," at one time or
another, has defeated every rival regardless of
power or price. ,
The man who has iumped from make to
make stops when he buys the "Stoddard-Day-lon."
He sticks to IT. YOU need not experiment.
Just start right with the "Sfoddard-Dayton."
One BPrice
for
All Buyers
One Quality
for
All Models
( '
12 MODELS
22 BODY STYLES
30, 40, 50
and 60
liORSE POWER
,
TYPE MODEL WHEEL BASE WHEELS TIKES K. P. SEATS FSIOB
Touring Car . : 10 F 128 3l 4y2 50 7 $2800
Limousine or Landaulet 10 F 128 36 4 50 7 3800
Gentleman's Speed Car 10 S 106 34 4Vi 60 2 3250
Touring Roadster 10 K-5 120 36 4 50 5 2750
Roadster 10 K 120 36 4 50 2 2650
Touring Car 10 A 116 34 4 40 5 2100
Touring Roadster 10 C 5 9 116 34 4 40 5 2100
Roadster 10C 116 34 4 40 2 2000
Touring Car 10 B 108 32 4 30 5 1600
Roadster 10 H 108 32 3VJ 30 2 1500
FROM $1500 UP
2 TO 7 PASSENGER
FACTORY CAPACITY
3,000
1910 CARS
Magnetos, but not Tops, are included in the above prices. Models K, C and H are furnished with various styles of bodies. In enclosed cars we offer Limousines,
Landaulets, Town Cars, Cabs, Coupes, etc., either large or small chassis as you wish. Write for Catalog.
Here's Proof of SuperioritySatisfy Yourself.
Just observe who own Stoddard-Daytons in Omaha.
Many of them will have nothing but the best, regardless of price, and they know
what Is best, too. If you do not know them, we will supply you a list upon request. v
Moneyed men who disregard price.but who are overly exacting in choosing a car, buy
the Stoddard-Dayton time after time. '
Scientific, mechanical men, and heads of machinery companies compare all prominent
Cars and oftenest buy the Stoddard-Dayton.
An official of the Union Pacific Railroad Co. a man exceedingly hard to plaase Is
now driving bis third Stoddard-Dayton.
One prominent Omahan family has bought four Stoddard-Dayton Cars.
A popular Omaha president of a big corporation is now driving bis third Stoddard
Dayton. A number of well known local Clubmen and Sportsmen drive the racy, powerful
snappy Stoddard-Dayton roadsters.
' It is common to find an Omahan driving his second Stoddard-Dayton.
Owners of the Stoddard-Dayton swear by their Cars.
Therefore, the Stoddard-Dayton must be absolutely the best or it could not deserve
and receive such flattering patronage.
To confirm these facts, and for further proof, send for our list of owners, and "Just
talk with Stoddard-Dayton owners."
Stoddard-Daytons every year are In great demand while other so-called leading cars
the highest priced ones are offering Inducements for orders.
Stoddard-Daytons always sell at the full price, not one cent less to anybody and still
-there is always a shortage in the supply of cars, before the season is over.
Have us "show you" by practical demonstration that Stoddard-Daytons are all they
are claimed to be.
Ciaftgy-Beautiful. Stoddard-Dayton Cars are of classy design with graceful, pleasing
lines and distinctively beautiful finish, not elsewhere equalled.
Ease-Comfort. Stoddard-Dayton Cars are so balanced and hung, dimensions and
weights are so proportioned, the springs so made and tempered, bodies and seats are so
carefully shaped, and the upholstering so expertly done, that taken as a whole the con
struction affords the easiest riding, the most comfortable automobile ever produced.
Silent-Smooth. "It goes like a breese," was the way a wealthy easterner, visiting in
Cleveland last week, expressed his approval of the silent, smooth-going Stoddard-Dayton.
Finest Motor Made. The famous Stoddard-Dayton Valve-in-Head Motor, having sim
plified and get-at-able parts with 20 greater pgwer using less gasoline being free
from vibration affording steady application of power- with its automatic positive oiling
system with steady power at slow as well as fast sieed always powerful, quiet, smooth,
snappy and speedy, is now acknowledged the greatest of gasoline motors. The most prom
inent foreign Cars have motors TKh many of these same points in common. Fully as
clever are the principles, designs and construction of all other mechanical parts. Every
slight detail shows studied thought.
Materials. Finest quality, strongest and most durable known to Science.
Workmanship. Experts, the most skilled possible to obtain are employed. Dayton is
the home of the world's best mechanics.
Great Power At one time or another the Stoddard-Dayton has won victories over
every Hill t'limbinfc competitor with which it has ever contested. And this includes Cars
of the highest price. It has been in twice as many Hill Climbs as any other Car, and won
a much larger percentage of victories.
Speedy. No Car can go faster, and (equally as important) no Car can go as slowly on
direct drive with as much ease on the motor action.
Low Coht. The first cost Is the lowest because jou get more for every dollar invested In
a Stoddard-Dayton than any other Car made. The second cost is the very lowest, becausa
the Valve-In-Head motor developes 12 to 20 miles per gallon of gasoline and repair
penses are low as the lowest.
We are Receiving 1910 Orders Now For Late Summer and Early Fall Delivery. To Secure Desirable
Date, Act Quickly. Phone And One of My Representatives Will Call On You.
Oeiplgjflmlt AmtonraoltDSIlo
ISIS Farnam St., Omaha, Neb.
(Co
" Mfc i mm
lish of some other parts of the country
lost this Ingenuousness of exterior with
growing- prosperity. Intercommunication
and sophistication.
But we've strayed from the walk to I'p
lealham. the bonnie village of temperance.
All the hills hereabouts have been honey
combed by miners since the discovery of
the Iron stone within them and its possi
bilities. There has been a subsidence of
the surface in many parts, and houses
have had to be shored up or taken down.
I'pleatham Hull. Itself, in the midst of its
great park, had to be rased in consequence
of the mining operations In quest of the
mineral wealth In the bottom of the lulls,
and its owner the owner of most of the
land hereabout the marquis of Zetland,
now uses I'pleatham I'ark merely for the
grating- of cattle.
To the visitor the most Interesting spot
about I'pleatham, nestling in a country
side of hills and dales that would Justify
th American Indian uaois of Onondaga-
land of hill and valley is I'pleatham Old
church, declared to be the smallest church
in England, a church that would be
crowded with a score j?t people. It Is men
tioned in lomesday book.
It is only fair to say that at one time
the church was very much larger, as the
remnants of ruined walls clearly shuw. Nn
one about, however, seems to preserve even
the tradition of a time when the church
wis other than it remains today. Half
way up the western side of the tower there
is a stone built into the wall which bears
iu rough carvtntf this Inscription:
WILLIAM CROW CHVKCHWAKH
EN
BVLDED 8TEPEL
1M.
There are gravestones in the church yard
dating from the sixteenth century, but
everything is so rank and overgrown that
lltue 1 tj be salued by browsing- among
them or in searchlni; for elder remains.
Alj around Is decay. The Interior of the
church Itself is unsafe, and there Is Dune
to repair It. One of the beauties of tht
English land system. The lord of the
manor owns It, Lord Zetland.
"Aye, the marquis was here the other
day, him anij his lady," says the old sex-
i ton why do old churches always have old
sexton? "but I was away. I wish I'd been
here with my key. I should like to have
shon him! Why. I 'aven't any 'earl In
trying to keep the place up. It's deplora
ble, I declare 'tis."
A curious sum rat It Ion has prevailed In
! I h. ns(i.hh..i liitiu1 v hirh rn u'i.nl.1 liL( I,,
have the time to fathom. On the north
side of the church are a number a whole
line of grotesque carvings lu the usual
position of gargoyles, but scarcely properly
gargoyles as they do not serve the purpose
of gargoyles. The carvings are old and
much ravaged by time and weather. It Is
the belief of the people, the sexton said,
that they were put there to ward off evil
I spirits. The superstition was handed down
from none knows where, or how lonj aifo.
hut was sufficiently potent so that until
thirty-five years ago no burluls were made
In the yard on this side of the church.
Another walk to Iledcar, over the bluffs,
reveals camps of the territorials conspic
uous high above the sea or sheltered In
hollows. The first wonder at such a site
being chosen, for encampments of the vol
unteers yields when one hears that this
coast, or the part between the Tyne and
the Humber, has been declared to be the
one weak spot In England's coast defence
system, the one spot vulnerable to attack
once England's first line of defence her
ships Is broken. The people therefore wel
come the soldiers and the Idea of their be
ing made familiar with the lund.
Looking at Kedcar, a full grown resort
and mecca of excursionists, a town of
solidly built houses, shops and Inns, it
seems a far cry to its first discovery as u
possible seaside city, only 1W years ago,
when an enthusiastic traveler found it
fishing vilace, saw Its possibilities and pro
claimed himself prophetically the discov
erer of a new seashore home for thousands.
At that time the fierce winds piled up the
sand about the fisherman's houses so
hlh'h that mornings the people had to dig
themselves out. like lonely farmers snowed
in in hard winters. 1
Cornered.
Pa Edith, how often do you practice on
the piano when I'm away?
Edith Every day, pa.
1'a How long did you practice yester
day? Edith Pour hours.
Pa And today?
Edith About the same.
Pa Well, I'm glad to hear you're, sa
regular. The next time you practice, how
ever, be sure to unlock the puano. I
locked it last week, and I've been carry
ing the key In my pocket ever silica!
Here It Is.. Judge's Library. fr Y
t
1
