Tirn OMAITA SUNDAY BEE: SEPTEMBER 10, 1909.
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REAL OLD ENGLAND, TMS
Notei of a Summer Trip to the York
shire Coast.
BATH UNDER LOCAL CONDITIONS
rirt areaqae Pisces and Habit Along
be (irrmta Ocean Thf Smallest
Charrh Hnmrwhat Sombre
English Merrj maklns.
SALTF.I.'RN, En.. Sept. 8-Have you
In late yearn experienced the rarity In
Kuropo of escaping the American tour
ists In nummrr time travelling? It can
be done here In Yorkshire and It seems al
most a wonder, so ublqultouit Is Jonathan
on hla holidays in these times. He Is so
scarce anion the Cleveland Hills, how
ever, that the natives don't know him
trom a Russian.
It may be said with confidence that the
Imperious American traveller nas made o
Impression on the conditions of life here
about albeit In the neighboring and mod
ern town of Middlesbrough Yankee Ideas
have so far been adopted or adapted by
the Yorkshlrrmen that upon quitting, the
railway station one gets quite the feeling
f having suddenly stepped from an Eng
lish railway carriage Into a western
American hustling town. The traveller
looks about in mild confusion until he
learns that Middlesbrough as It is Is the
rrowth of a generation. It seems in no
Kay a part of the old England around It.
Even where modernity has made head
way elsewhere In the vicinity, as at Salt
burn or other of the seashore resorts,
there Is a clinging prlmitlveness all per
vading that takes the edges from the new
iharp bricks and dulls the bright new
ness of modern provincial elegance. The
presence of a cabinet minister and a mem
ber of Parliament as summer residents
high on' the splendid esplanade cannot
'.aka from old Saltburn, nestling at the
foot of Huntcllff, the aroma qf ancient
days of romunce and adventure, days of
smuggling, of hardy fishers, of shipwreck
and struggles with the sea which In times
of storm and of extreme tide washes Into
the old houses and the old Ship inn
stacked against the Inhospitable cliff.
While Old Saltburn was nothing but a
fishing village and negligible by its neigh
bors, the newer Saltburn, the summer re
sort. Is looked upon by them f.s an up
start. Saltburn, to give Itself airs, Indeed,
as a resort of people who can go sum
mering at the seaside In the face of its
elder and most worthy neighbors who
have been established on the soil there
many generations, who figure In Domes
day Book and were post villages on the
royal roads when It was a forsaken prom
ontory of the German ocean! ' Hadn't
Upletham these many years the reputa
tion of being as bonnle a village as you'd
find In the realm, with the boast of never
a public house In Its precincts, while Its
neighbor, Gulsborough the ancient Guys
bourne with twenty-two. "pubs" had
never a drunken man on the street an
achievement in virtue characterizing Salt
burn? '
With only three places dispensing liquor,
Saltburn, or at least a part of It, drinks
like the thirsty sands that swallow its roll
ing tides in a beach 1,000 feet wide and ex
tending for several miles to and past the
next coast towns.- It may be the excellent
beach which leads sojourners to do mora
bathing at Saltburn than Is to be seen at
most English resorts, yet It is a treach
erous coast and takes it tribute of swim
mers annually. Three persons this season
so far have been drowned.
It makes an American laugh and then
angry at the stupidity to which this loss
of life Is due, the arrangement for bath
ing at this admirable beach. Ot course
the clumsy, antiquated bathing machines
are In use, except that during certain hours
men, women and children may, if they wish
and In fact they do undress and dress in
the open air on the vast reaches of these
sands and go In bathing without the popu
lar bathing suit used at this period Is
worthy of notice. A single piece usually,
for men and women alike, it will go in its
entirety into a paper peanut bag, and some
of the lightest ones for men may practi
cally be rolled between the fingers like a
cigarette. One costs a shilling, or one quite
fulfilling the regulations may even be
bought for ninepence. .
It may mildly Interest some who study
political wickedness at home to learn that
the reason for limiting the hours when peo
ple may go bathing without the machines
is ascribed to the membership in the local
council of the one man who owns all the
machines here. In return, however, he pre
scribes the safety of users of his machines
by Informing them that unit as they come
In shore when "J. W." toots his horn he
will "not be responsible" for them. As the
horn toots as soon as you have reached a
di'iuh of water somen hat above your knees
the fun of the game Is quickly jtppurent.
And how solemn It all Is. None of the
joyous shouts of sra bathers. In the United
States, where they semi to have fun In
the ocean, but one dull, silent occasion, as
though this bathing were the performance
of a rigid duty. And nowhere a float, no
where a diving board or post, nowhere
ropes to mark the safety limits and serve
as aides to the weak; not even a lifeboat
in the water or a professional swimmer at
hand.
Hack among the bathing machines on
the beach Is the sole boat, resting be
tween two wheels ready for launching
through the breakers. The men to man
it? Maybe they are there; If they are
they are beautifully Inconspicuous. Hut
of course there's J. W.'s horn.
Hut solemn as It all Is there are dis
tractions at this resort too. The beach
is the scene of all sorts of games. Any
number of cricket matches are going on in
the sand, with foot ball and clcycle rid
ing, kite flying and more. Hundreds of
people, old and young, have dug hollows
and raised back rests for themselves in
the sand to enable themselves to He or sit
in comfort and see what is going on and
still be sheltered from the strong winds.
The plerrots are here, the plerrots with
out whom the English seaside resort is
not complete. Here at Saltburn, as almost
places nowadays, these London or pro
vincial music hall performers having their
summering and making their living at the
same time, wear yachting suits, otherwise
blue coats and caps and white trousers,
as they give their open air performances
on the beach. Further on at Itadcar the
plerrots wear the old, familiar . white
Pierrot costume with the conical hat. Al
though given In the open air, there are
seats and a" email stage for these per
formances and the spectators who take
seats pay a small fee. One may stand up
and enjoy the performance gratis, but one
la couslJored very, small indeed If lu that
case one declines to drop a small coin In
lhe cap which before the end of the per
formance one of the plerrots passes around.
Usually the plerrots are all men. They . may
have one woman with them.
In a walk along the great beach to
Marske or ftedcar a beach that could
no more be crowded than one could im
agine the North river crowded, even if It
lay at the gates of a great cltyt one comes
upon a sport which may be peculiar to
these strands. It is sand yachting, and
the broad, smooth, hard beach gives
splendid opportunity for It, especially
at low tide. The sand yacht Is a struiv
ture made of four bicycle wheels with
pneumatic tires of course, lightly con
nected as for the understructure oPa car
riage, but no carriage body Is placed upon
this light skeleton. Instead a seat is built
above the rear axle and a mast is stepped
above the forward axle.
The mast carries a three cornered sail,
controlled from the seat, -"where the opera
tor or sailor also controls the fore wheels,
by which he steers, moving them by a
rope. These sand yachts make good
speed over the sands and seem to offer
good sport, (-cuddlng to the water's edge,
tacking up the beach, manoeuverlng at
the will of the rider and occasionally at
the caprice of the wind. It must be said.
Of all the advantages of Saltburn as a
delectable seashore resort, none Is greater
than that It derives from its situation
within walking distance of some of the
most charming towns and villages, while
by rail one can visit any of a score of
beautiful and hlstoilcal places for the
modest price of -a few pence, or two shill
ings at the most. It Is astonishing to an
American to find the number of excur
sions these railroads run at what seems
a nominal cost. Think of going fifty
miles and bacfc for B0 cents. Whitby,
with its fine ruin of St. Hilda's (seventh
century) Abbey costs only about half that.
And interesting persons ure to be en
countered almost anywhere on the way.
"Yes," said a contemplative Yorkshire
man visiting the town, as he stood in one
ot Whitby's precipitous streets looking up
at the appallng approach of 199 steps to
the abbey, "yes, I know now what an
eloquent preacher from Whitby, whom I
herd once meant .vhon he said mar had
to'struggle up to God, but could tumble
Into a tavern. It's true here."
There are other contrasts In Whitby,
however. Could there be a inore pleasing
street or house name than Flowergate? We
came upon It at si turn of a road leading
to the liver and determined to have a
look In. Among all the squalid places im
aginable there are certainly some as dis
tressing as Flowergate, but they do not
usually have to belie their names so
shamelessly. The place beneath this floral
label wus filled with brats and the evi
dences of wash day, not to mention cer
tain washing left undone.
Some Whitby shop' windows carry the
visitor back to childhood, to small and
solemn interior communities and to days
and places of conspicuous and oppreslve
mourning. For they are filled with Jet,
the Whitby Jet, Jet Jewelry and adorn
ments of all sorts. The Whitby Jet natur
ally suggests the neighboring fossils, and it
is curiously Interesting 'to find that here
aboutsand hereabouts alone, it Is said
one may come across in the rocks the
fossil nautilus, the same nautilus exactly
which is to be seen In the surrounding
Maters, the same Jaunty little chap whose
sail Is said to have suggested the pattern
of the sails of the first ships.
Have you fancied that the town crier Is
In these days of newspapers a thing of the
past? Not so In Whitby, where he Jangles
his bell and cries the news and the lost
as of yore. Only it Is to be said that usu
ally the news has gained circulation in trie
town before the crier bruits it around.
And It isn't only shoemakers' children
who go barefoot in these wilds as else
where, if one may stretch the saying a
little. Here we are at any of these coast
towns light In the midst of the lobsters,
so to speak. But can we get a live lobster?
Not at a hotel, restaurant or market. Th.
lobster is rarely found In the bills of fare.
The shop windows are filled with boiled
ones. If you happen to be down at the
landing when the fishermen come In In
their cobles or smacks you can get a live
lobster If you are quick about it. Other
wise the fishers Immediately proceed to
boll them, after which they may be sold
at more leisure.
I asked In a restaurant at Saltburn if
they would serve me with a lobster If I
brought one In. They seemed to think the
suggestion extraordinary, but . many said
yes. If I "fancied" one, they would, If 1
would have some tea and bread and butter
with it. And this In the country where
they brew ale and drink it, too!
In some of the places they still auction
the fish catch In bulk on arrival or In the
morning, and the fish are later sold at re
tail from door to door by the wholesale
purchaser. The fisherman's Jargon is too
much for any ear but a native' one. To
hear a group of fishers talking the stranger
would never think that they were speaking
English, the accent is so strong and the
enunciation ao thick, even worse tnu iu
the ordinary York.shlreman. Even keen
listening will scarcely enable an American
to recognize an eccaslonal familiar English
word. ,
Of course the local pronunciation of
proper names In England is an did story,
and yet the Jar is not inconsiderable at
hearing Siaithes pronounces Steers. It
seems easy afterward to hear Ruswarp pro
nounced Russ-up. The stalthes are the
quays, but in this instance they have given
name to the place, One of the most pic
turesque of fishing villages, located at the
foot of precipitous cliffs.
But ojf all the Journeys about this part
of the Cleveland district the walks are
probably the most attractive, delightful.
Invigorating, inviting the walk to Marske
along the sards, or to Redcar, the inland
walks to Upletham, Glnsborough and the
rest: Gulsborough with its twenty-two
public houses and no drunkards, lis Im
posing luins of the Priory, its inns that
have scarcely changed since it lay on the
post road of the Whitby and York
coaches, Its delightful landscape at the
border ot the great Yorkshire moors, its
respectable and established middle class
feeling ot superiority to the modern busi
ness community of Middlesbrough, and the'
upstart pretentions (as Gulsborough views
the matter) of the new Saltburn. Oh, It's
a part ot Old England to rejoice one's soul
and titillate one's risible, alternately, this.
One characteristic of the Yorkshire peo
ple whom the casual traveler encouuteis
on the roads cannot fail to strike him by
the contrast it affords to the general atti
tude ot the English one meets similarly In
the cities, and even In smull communities
of the south of the island. This is the af
fability, almost sociability ot the native
upon his encounter with the stranger. Ap
parently these people ot the north are iu
this respect ot habits and ideas similar to
those ot the Americans, and It prompts
the Inquiry whether at an earlier day these
customs characterised the England that
cvluuUed the states, and wbvlnrr the tug-
1.
2x
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Oojptcjjlhit AmtoinmotDallce
1818 Farnam St., Omaha, IVeto.
(Co
i i.i y i mn
Hull of some other part of the country
loft thU Ingenuousness of tklerior with
growing pronpniiy. Intercommunication
and sophistication.
But we've strayed from the walk to lp
leatham. the bonnle village of temperance.
All the hills hereabouts have been honey
combed by miners since the discovery of
the Iron stone within them and its possi
bilities. There has been a subsidence uf
the surace In many parts, and houses
have had to be shored up or taken down.
I'pleatham Hall. Itself, In the millet of its
great park, had to be raxed In vonsequence
of the mining operations in quest ot the
mineral wealth in the bottom ot the hills,
and Its owner the owner of moat of the
land hereabout the marquis of Zetland,
now uses I'pleatham i'ark merely for the
grating of cattle.
To the visitor the most Interesting spot
about I'pleatham, nestling in a country
side ot hills and dales that would justify
the American Indian name uf OuvuuV.a-
land of hill and valley Is I'pleatham Old
church, declared to be the smallest church
in lCnglaiid, a church that would be
crowded with a score jft people. It Is men
tioned In lumeday book.
It la only fair to say that at one time
the church was very much larger, as the
remnants of ruined walls clearly show. N
one about, however, seems to preserve even
the tradition of a time when the church
wis other than It remain today. Half
way up the western side of the tower theru
is a stone built Into the wall which bears
lu rough carving this Inscription:
: WILLIAM CHOW CHVIICIIWAHII :
: KN :
: BVLDED 8TEPEL :
: ' 1S64. !
I
There are gravestones In the church yard
dating from the sixteenth century, but
everything is so rank and overgrown that
111 lie U to. be gained by browsing among
them or in searching for elder remains.
Air. around Is decay. The interior of the
church Itself is unrafe. and there is none
to repair it. One of the beauties of the
English land system. The lord of the
manor owns It, Lord Zetland.
"Aye, the marquis was here the other
day, him ani) his lady," says the old sex
ton why do old churches always have old
sexton? "but I was away. I wish I'd been
here with my key. I should like to have
yhow;n him! Why, I 'aven't any "cart In
trying to keep the place up. It's d'plora
ble, I declare 'tis."
A curious sup istlllon has prevailed in
the neighborhood which one would like to
have the time to fathom. On the north
side of the church are a number a whole
line of grotesque carvings lu the usual
po.sltlon of gargoyles, but scarcely properly
gargoyles as they do not serve the purpose
of gargoyles. The carvings are old and
much ravaged by time and weather. It is
the belief of the people, the sexton said,
that they were put there to ward off evij
spirits. The superstition was handed down
from none knows where, or how long ago.
but was sufficiently potent so that until
thirty-five years ago no burials were made
In the yard on this side of the church.
Another walk to Itedcar, over the bluffs,
reveals camps of the territorials conspic
uous high above the sea or sheltered In
hollows. The first wonder at such a site
being chosen, for encampments of the vol
unteers yields when one hears that this
coast, or the part between the Tyne and
the Humber, has been declared to be the
one weak spot In EtiKland's coast defence
system, the one spot vulnerable to attack
once England's first line of defence her
ships Is broken. The people therefore wel
come the soldiers and the Idea of their be
ing made familiar with the lund.
Looking at Iledcar, a full grown resort
and mecca of excursionists, a town of
solidly built houses, shops and Inns, It
seems a far cry to Its first discovery as a
possible seaside city, only l'JO years ago,
when an enthusiastic traveler found it a
fishing vUaue, Huw its possibilities and pro
claimed himself prophetically the discov
erer of a new seashore homo for thousands.
At that time the fierce winds piled up the
sand about the fisherman's houses ao
high that mornings the people had to dig
themselves out, like lonely farmers snowed
In In hard winters. '
Cornered.
Pa Edith, how often do you practice on
the piano when I'm away?
Edith Every day, pa.
1'a How long did you practice yester
day? Edith Four hours.
Pa And today?
Edith About the same.
Pa Well, I'm glad to hear you're so
regular. The next time you practice, how
ever, be sure to unlock the piano. I
locked It last week, and I've been carry
ing the key In my pocket ever aluce
Here It !.. Judge's Library,