THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JULY 4, 1909. Call of the Mountains Lures the City Dweller to Cool Trout Lakes ij - t I O WEPT, young man." Gl This admonition, given years I ago to the youth of the cities u i me east, ii again applicable In another way. No better ad vice could b given to the bust- i "v. man in search of a few weeks' vaca tion and rest from the humdrum of a busy ritv Ufa. What better advice could be n than lo (to to the land of life, health, 'HPf and plenty to the land where cool f nuntnln breezes abound and where the mountain streams and lakes are filled with bta-itlful trout, all ready and waiting to bo caught? S imoier months, with their accompany Ii'r heat, ore at hand, and the weary toller of the city begins to wonder where he can I o and secure nbsnlute rest, where he may fcrjrrt the carea of biislnr. and where he ifcny be away from the everyday eights ,h.ch grow tiresome. This is the erason of tho year when the run l.fi;.i down on both sides of the cities' rtrcpt, atn-.ot met the asphalt pave ments and literally forces the city chap to long for tome shnlrd brook where he n-.iglit lounge In peace with the world and feci sad for hs less fo; (unite brother who Is force! by cures of business to remain In the city and swelter. YfcUuv Mm c i ei I; is one of the most pop ular plucs, but no many of the Omaha people have been to the park that they IlKcly to take somo other mountain trip, where they have to rough It a little, either In camping parties or by stagecoach. Tel lomstono park Is much more accessible to the people of Omaha than formerly and a trip through the park may be made with much greater ease and In much less time, because of the new entrances recently opened. Formerly the only entrance to the park was via the Northern Pacific at Gardiner, but during the last few yean three new entrances have been made pos sible. One of these Is over the Burlington to Oofly and thence via stage Into the park. Another Is the new Union Paclflo lino to the western gateway of the park, and an other Is an automobile route north from the Union Taclflo through Wyoming. These entrances to the park make It possible to enter one slilo and leave on the other, thus saving much time by not having to double back. Mr. TTarrlman has spent millions and millions of dollars perfecting a road which runs direct from Omaha to the wilds of tho mountains, where a few weeks may be spent with nature In all its grandeur. Alighting from the cars at any of the many stopping places along the route, a saddlo horse, wagon or automobile will soon carry the pleasure-seeker tnto the solitudes of the mountains. In a moment the outer world la shut out. There Is nothing to remind one of the rumble of trains, the rattle of the pavements or the turmoil of the city. One Is soon alone with nature In all Its magnificence. At times the Journey to the camping ground leads along the banks of a foaming, tumultuous Mrcam beating against rock-ribbed walls. At times the road leads up the side of the mountains among the tall trees and winds nnd twists In and about cragged peaks and then descends Into deep gulches and out again and on and up to the snow-capped summits of the mountain rangea. Writing home to some friends from one of theso trips, an Omaha traveler who was Labors of Christian Missionaries Among the (Copyright, 1909, by Frank G. Carpenter.) EOl'L. (Special Correspondence S of The Bee.) Jut before I left I Washington last summer to 1 ...... r. tkta l.ln n ..... ha Pacific one of our leading bankers said to me: "I understand you are going out to de scribe the awakening of Asia. There is one thing I wish you would Investigate have a cathedral in Seoul. It stands on a In a practical way. That is the mission hill overlooking the rest of the city and movement! There are tens of thousands 11 Is by far the largest church building in of us buxlness men who are giving regu- Korea. larly toward the introduction of ChrlH- The protestant missions are all working ianlty among the heathen. We want to together. They have about 200 American know what our money Is doing, and n(1 European men and women employed whether It will pay us to continue giving nd tnelr stations cover the country. The or not. You are an unprejudiced observer Protestants are divided Into Presbyterians, and we would like to know what you Hthodlsts and1 Anglicans, the Presby- think." terians represent both sections of the This desire to know the truth about mis- cnurch n th United States, north and slons is not confined to our business men. outh. there are also small branches It Is a live question to the 22,000,000 who m denomination from Canada belong to our various church organtsa- n4 Autralla. Our Methodist Episcopal lions and to every Sunday school and ohurclie". north and south, are carrying religious body throughout the whole United on ret wor. nd English have a States. wel1 managed mission at the head of whloh ft is a bishop. In addition there are the Thoaaaada of Native Christiana. mission of the Russian Greek church in I ara glad to bave this country as my 8oul. h Young Men's Christian assooia flrst field for such Investigation. The Uon " Station Army, whose ad Koreans are now doing more than any vanc U"A cama laMt ' AU the other nation along such lines. Our mis- lttrr mlslons have schools and hospitals, sionarlea went to the Japanese first, but nd 11 hava many nalv workers. As I 'Korea has tod.y more converts than Japan hav ld' th mov'ra'nt has so advanced and pioportlonately many times mors than that thB moat ol lha signers are now China, which has been exploited by the mPloyed ln directing native Christians, churches for eeveral generations. who have bcom h chl lennt la the The Christian movement Is one of the v"eatlon of the country. vital elsmtnts of tho reorganisation of this country. A great revival Is now taking place among the people, and more than 30,000 converts have bm-n added to the church within a year. There are about 1W.0OO native Chrlwtlar.s, and there will be a tA k. f , , . . aii'TnM a Vn ,i ,i 7 ..ZSZl- V POpU" lon of han N'000-000' our ?!u , ,7 ,'V.7y 100 h" profeMe our r llglon. If a similar success could be M J rlZZ , C.Un: WU1,1 hV' t..'.. aJZ! .. . . U woul1 nave .wo,uue. and lr in India, 2,000,000 or , You remember the wonderful work which nt,y E'Sr1 Evere,t lu,e' Plana or Ten times one Is ten" the endless chain principle In which every one en.- cagrd to Intercut ten others In making tho world better. The same thing, al though not on a numerical scale. Is going on In Korea. Tho converted natives are different from us In that as soon as they adopt Christianity they go out and try to convert thtir friends and neighbors. Indeed, the mission movement Is now iH-ltig puh.d by the natives themselves under the direction of our missionaries. Native churches are bring built by native contributions In all of the cltlee, and there is a Korean congregation In every large villase. The Pioteetsnt organisations al ready number something like U0 Out ad herents, while the Roman Catholics count M.O00 Koreans. Tho Protestants have X -uT preachers and 200 Sunday schools iv.wu men. women and chil dren as regular attendants. There are more grown people than children In the Sunday schools; and ail are anxious to learn about the new religion and what It con do for them. There are 100 self-supporting day schools, run by the churches. snd altogether .000 or T0.0OO gold dollars were jnt upon such schools last year. When it la remembered that the Koreans are one of the poorest peoples on earth, and that they live from hand to mouth, these gifts are a surprising evidence of their faith. But first let m. tell you the foreign i 1 t ' J carried away by the grandeur of the sight wrote: "Here, nature has combined lia dignity, beauty and eloquence. Here, once must have been marshaled all its rampant forces; here, must bave been a seething turmoil, when those masses of granite were thrown pell-mell, some Into grotesque heaps, others superbly chiseled Into ex quisite design. "Here' are the never disappearing snow banks. For countless ages they have lain among the peaks, filling the crevices, the gulches and basins, and though the sum mer sun beats hard on them, naught but a tiny stream of water trickles forth from their edge, but as tiny as It is, It comes from so many banks so persistently, until It gathers the volume that makes the mountain torrent, and the placid valley streams that meet in their course and form the mighty rivers that flow some one way, some another to the seas." It is asserted there is no country on the face of the globe which can offer as .many inducements as the Jackson Lake country for scenery, fishing, all kinds of birds, duck and goose shooting, and it is with out doubt the greatest big game country in the world, not excepting the regions now being tramped ever by Theodore Kooseveit. The Jackson Hole country lies south of Tellowstone National park, and the south ern boundary of the national park is the northern boundary of the Jackson Hole country. Three majestlo peaks rise almost perpendicularly 7,275 feet above the level of the lake. The three snow-capped peaks of the range seem to stand guard over the missions which are operating in Korea. There are lour, each with a large staff of American or European workers. The 1 Ionian Catholics are French Jesuits. Ttl V h H VW hn ll.r. fl,T mi.,-. than century and have a fully organised church. At their head Is a bishop, who Is assisted by a large staff of priests and nuns, among whom are Koreans. The Catholics 111 Koreans at Csmreh. Tou religious drones of the United States who stay at borne from church and prayer meetings whenever it rains should oome out to Korea to learn what live Chrls- nmiy mwni, iui ii tor instance, a natlv church hl 1 nded this week. It was that of Dr. J. 8. Gale, belonging to th. Presbyterian mission In Seoul. The cnurcn ,tan1, on , hin not f trom ,b, P"' ' an aov. th. big technical school which the Japanese hav. Ju,t founded. Its audience hall Is sixty feet wide by eighty feet long and it seats about vjoo. This church was built by native contributions and its members gav. : Ti T- M. C. A. BUILDING 7 ON A WTOMINQ MOUNTAIN LA KB. surrounding country, and rising as they seem to do out of the lake, these moun tains l.ave a plcturesquenesa impossible to describe. Times have been changing In the matter of vacations for the olty folks. It was not so very far back that business men made trips to well known summer resorts whloh are crowded at this time of the year, but they have learned better in recent years. The buslnees man has learned to his great advantage that he can have more real rest and freedom from business carea by hiking to the mountains. The residents of the mountain districts have learned this and now, all over the west, ample ac commodations may be had for a trip close to nature. At all stations along the Union Paclflo in Wyoming outfitting parties are ready at a short notice to provide equip ment and guides for a trip Into the prac tically unexplored regions, where fish' may be caught In abundanoe and where the seeker after rest may travel day after day In the cool mountain breeses with snow In sight and where ail cares may be forgotten. What is more exhllerating than a day's tramp up one of these famous mountain streams in Wyoming in search of the festive trout The charm of fishing in such streams Is only known to those who have had the unequalled experience. With high boots It is the highest kind of sport to glide from one vantage point to an other and oast the fly ahead in search of a strike. The real fisherman knows the 22,500 to its support last year. In con nection with two other natve Presbyterian congregations its members are supporting two mission churches outside the city. This churoh has a regular attendance of 1,200 and when I entered it last Sunday there were more than that in the audience room. Fully 600 of those present were men. I doubt much if any United States city of 200,000 has a single church with 600 men among its regular attendants. And more than 600 of these Korean men had oome to Sunday school as well as to church. There were fully that many women. But how do I know that the men and women were equally divided T That la easy in a Korean congregation. The men all sit together on one-half the church floor, while the women are squatted on the other half, a wide canvas screen being stretched from one end of the ohurch to the other between them. The women are supposed not to be seen by, any men but their husbands. They some to the church with green cloaks wrapped around their beads and they put these on upon going out The church floor Is covered with white matting. AU take off their shoes as ihey oome In and lay them beside them on the floor as they listen to the sermon. At the front of the hall Is a ' rostrum sup porting a pulpit, from the middle of which the screen extends through the church, so that both men and women can see the pastor and he can see them. It was on this rostrum I sat. Qaeer CoBgrregratlea, The oongregatlon comprised all classes of Koreans. Among the men were cabi net ministers, governors and princes, sit ting side by side with common coolies and others of the lower classes. The same dif ferences of condition were observed among th. women. The men all wore hats; and, of the women, all were bareheaded. The men had on gowns of white, roee-plnk or sky-blue grass cloths or cotton, with white cotton ' under trousers and white padded stockings. Their hats were of black horse hair, so braided together that their top knots could be seen through the meshes. The women wore Jackets and skirts of white, lllao, pink and sea-green, and their hair was carefully combed. Some of the s AT SEOUL PUT UP BT JOHN WANNAMAKER, ' e O' y:,t enjoyment of sneaking up to a marked spot and the battle which follows the strike. What sport what enjoyment. When the sun is receding behind the high mountains the trout will come with a dash, almost a savage rush, and leap from the water to get the fly. Fish is the prlnolple diet on one of these trips, for fish may be had by anyone who la any kind of a fisherman at all, and if he is not the guide will see that enough are caught to provide a good fish dinner. A party of six men went from Lincoln, Neb., last year accompanied by their wives and a colored cook, who was secured from the Union Pacific. A trip was made Into the mountains from Laramie with a com plete outfit, which wag secured at Laramie, and a month spent In the mountains with the members of the party, free to feast or sleep, mountain climb or fish, as their sweet wills dictated, and the entire ex penses for this month of free life was less than SCO a person. The Laramie la a deep wide river, full of trout and big trout are In all the rivers of Wyoming. Trout were planted years ago, and they have grown and Increased until these streams are becoming known all over the country as the fisherman's para dise. July and August are the seasonable months for a trip to the mountains, for then the long imprisoned vegetation bursts Into Ufa and during these months changes are wrought which come earlier In the lower states. The Northwestern and the Burlington take the traveler to frequented parts of the woman had babies with them, and I heard a slight squall now and then. Before the sermon began one little girl stood up with her baby sister tied to her back. The little one was crying. The girl rose and fell on her toes to quiet It I have never seen such attention ln any church. The faces of the people fairly shone as one of the elders, nicknamed the wisest man ln Korea, once a member of the Korean legation in Washington, ad dressed them. There was not a snore to be heard, and of the whole 1,200 not one went to sleep. The preacher held them from start to close, now and then bringing out slaughter. After this a hymn was sung, the percentor standing ln his stocking feet, big hat and long gown on the rostrum, while a Korean girl played the organ, a little affair so small that at the close the sexton carried it out on his shoulder. Hymn books were used by all, and every one in that congregation is able to read. Indeed, the church will not take in any one who cannot read the Scriptures. Whsn a man becomes converted he Is asked as to his education and is told he must learn to read before the church will admit him. The Korean language is such that thla can be accomplished In the space of one month or so. Indeed, the spur of the desire for church membership is one of the great forces new working toward th. education of the Koreans. How Money Talks. After this hymn was sung fifty men and women were baptised and taken Into the church. They were all full grown and the sexes were about equally divided. They sat on the floor during the oeremony, the Rev. Dr. Gale touching the heads of each with water from a glass bowl. Before the dUmlsal, a collection was taken up, and it seemed to me that every one gave something, although most could afford but a penny or so. One woman brought ln 27. This was tha widow of a honey merchant who had a church box, in which he put his odd cents, and when the accumulation amounted to something, turned It in. His widow is doing the same, and this was her gift for the month. No one who docs not appreciate the poverty of Korea can realise how the people are giving. They say money talks. If It tells T ,. i 4 ii1 : . ' , ' V ., '. . " . - .v ' a TROUT FISHING Rocky Mountains and these routes are becoming more and more popular. The Northwestern, now extends to Lander, near the Wind River reservation, from whloh town the snow peaked summits of the Rockies are visible, from Lander and other towns It Is but a short drive to ideal camp ing places, A party of twenty young men from the east passed through Omaha last week for Lander, to start on a sixty days camping trip- Into the mountains. In and out of Tellowstone park. The Burlington runs through the Big Horn country to Cody, and here are regu lar outfitting companies, with all sorts of rigs, ready for trips to the mountains. Colonel Cbdy has established a line of hotels between Cody and Tellowstone park, and stops at any of these may be made with big game and fish in abundance. Here is just the kind of fishing to please most people. On the Laramie river, In southern Wyom ing, the following flies take well with the fish: Coaohman, light and dark royal, brown and gray hackles, professor, queen of the water, Jungle cock, abbey, black gnat and cowdung. All the tributaries of the Laramie afford good brook trout fish ing, but the larger fish are found In the larger streams. Generally speaking, there Is good trout fishing in all the streams of Wyoming. The Snake, the Big Horn, the Green are all stocked with trout of. a superior qual ity. In the warmer portions of these streams are also found the gamey Rocky Mountain whlteflsh, which lives In lively tho truth these people believe what they profeBS. Faith with Works. Faith without work Is said to be dead. If so, our American Christianity la ln a bad state ln comparison with Korean Christianity. There is a Methodist church In Seoul, maintained by the natives which is larger and quit, as earnest as the one I have described, and there are a number of other mission churches, most of which receive little help outside Korea. There are many places in which money could be used to advantage, and I know of no foreign country where It will meet with such large returns as right here. Borne of the native churches sre miserably poor. Take that of Dr. Bunker, near the east gate ln Seoul. It consists of one room of about the slse of a parlor ln an American flat, and so small that only 100 men can be crowded down upon the floor. At all the services ln that church the doors and windows are full and many must stand outside. It has three meetings every Sunday morning. There Is one for boys, which lasts from 2 to 10 o'clock; then one for men, from 10 to 12 o'clock; and after that a third service for the women. Dr. Bunker tells me that his people all give, although they are of the poorest class of Koreans, and that many of them cut down their food in order to give to the church. They will eat a spoonful or so less rice at a meal, or perhaps eat half the meal amount on on. day .very week. The collections of the con gregation amount to about $2 per Sunday, and this is made up of coins worth from one-forth of a cent to a nickel. The church has already saved 2250 toward a new build ing, and It Is now aiding mission churches outside. Last Sunday Dr. Bunker baptised one woman who was seventy-nine years of age. At Pyengyang there is a Presbyterian church which has twenty-two hundred reg ular attendants on Sundays and twelve hundred at the prayer meetings during mid week. One of Its members is a middle aged woman who walks ten miles ln from the country twice a week, rain or shine. Think of walking forty miles a week to preaching and prayer meeting. That Is what she does. Bible Study Classes. An interesting feature of the Christian movement her. is th. Bible study classes - PROTESTANT CHURCH BUILT BT NATIVE- KOREANS. IN THE PLATTE AT SHEEPSHEAD BLUFF. WYOMING water and takes a fly even better than a trout. A small fly must be used because of the smallness of their mouths. The most celebrated fishing grounds are the head of Green river, the Wind river near Lander and Bhoehonl and the many lakes. There are large trout In Snake river and still larger In the lake. Five and six-pound trout are common above Snake River canon, before entering Tellowstone park, and In the lake speolmens have been caught which weighed over ten pounds. All the streams rising in the big Horn mountains are filled with trout and the lakes on the western slope should be fished more to give the trout a ohance. Trout in these cold waters are never less than a pound In weight and often weigh four or five pounds, and a few hours' fish ing will give the fisherman all the fish his heart could desire. Moet of these fishing spots are away from the railroad, and stages or private conveyances will have to be used, but to go into the mountain, establish a eamp beside some beautiful mountain stream and live to enjoy the cool and invigorating at moephere and the pure mountain water, the campflres and the solitude that re lieves all business worry Is a vacation whloh is being sought by thousands each year in Increasing numbers. One beauty of a trip to tho mountatna, and especially to those who make a camp ing trip, is the utter abeenoe of snakes. The terror to women who camp In the states In the lower altitudes is snakes, which are liable to come prowling around Natives which are carried on regularly ln different parts of the country at certain times of the year. These people are anxious to Btudy the scriptures and to have them ex plained. Many of them ommtt parts of the New Testament the Proverbs and Psalms, and Dr. Gale tells me that he has members of his ohurch whom he uses as a concordance, asking them where certain verses of the scriptures are instead of looking at the books. At a Christmas cele bration last winter an old woman or 83 was told to repeat some verses from the Bible. She started in with Proverbs, and rattled off three chapters before they were able to stop her. She said she could give six more If they wanted them. That woman walks three miles every Sunday to church. The Bible study classes come In the win ter and spring. The men hav. on. time and the women another when they thus meet together. They will walk for miles to these classes, bringing their rloe or enough money to pay their board while they stay. Some come 200 miles and walk all the way. These meetings last two weeks and during this time the people read and discuss the scriptures. Last year the men's classes were held ln February, and those for the women in March. At th. meetings In Seoul there were 400 men, some of whom came from near the Sea of Japan, some from, the north and others from all over the country. The meetings were led by one of the foreign missionaries, who gave an outline of the book of the New Testa ment, which had been selected for study. After this, the men read the book together, asking questions and discussing eaoh verse. They all took notes ln order to carry their learning back to their villages. At the woman's meeting the foreign ladles presided and the exercises were similar. Medical Missions. I might write a chapter on th. medical missions of Korea. American doctors have done enormous good here. There are twelve hospitals and dispensaries scat tered over the country, In which 20,000 patients are annually treated, and there are special corps of trained workers, in cluding teachers, doctors and nurses, who 1 1 the camp at night There are no snakes to bother in tho mountains. There are no stinging nor biting Insects to make life miserable and to mar one's beauty. No obnoxious animals come prowling around the camp at night for should a stray ante lope come around it la perfectly harm leas. There are none of these things to mar one's pleasure. Ranchmen are scattered all over this western country and It Is possible to pitch a camp within reach of some ranch where eggs and milk may be secured to make a change from the trout meals of which, however, the fisherman la not apt to be come tired. Colorado also share with Wyoming the honors of being well supplied with moun tain streams fuU of fish and also with many well developed summer resorts, ' where a vacation may be spent In the mountains with ail the comforts of an up-to-date hotel. Estes park has been brought closer to the seeker for rest by the estab lishment of an automobile line to this famous park. Stanley, the automobile man ufacturer, has found that be can live much better In Colorado than In any other state, and he has acquired vast tracts of land and has also built a huge modern hotel In Estes park, which he has connected with the railroad by an automobile line. The Colorado & Southern has several splendid rest spots along Its line and the Denver fit Rio Grand trarenea a section of the state whloh Is full of places to suit many searchers torn rest and, recrea tion. I I jit U i.lJiabiH 4 1 1 of Korea are doing a great deal for Korean women along such lines. The big Red Cross hos pital which the Japanese have opened is based upon work done by the missionaries, and one of Its leading doctors is William B. Scranton, who cams her. twenty-five years ago as a medical missionary of the Methodist church. It was Dr. Horace N. Allen who sewed up the body of Prince Mia Tung Ik when he was cut aim oat to pieces In a revolt at the palace. He thereby gained th. good will of the king. This Insured to tho mis sionaries tha ftiendafutp of the nobility and enabled America for years to lead ln all the advanced movements here. Dr. Allen risked his life tn attempting that eure.l When he arrived at the palace ho found thirteen native physicians about to pour boiling wax into the gaping wounds of the prince; and It was only by tact that he was able to make them stand back and allow him to dress the wounds. As a thank offering the king then started a gov - ernment hospital with Allen In charge. It had forty beds and it treated over 10,000 patients the first year. The Methodists hav. now five hospitals, ln which 20,000 cases ar. treated annually, and the British Society for the Propaga tion of the Gospel has four. Th. Presby terians have a number of hospitals, one of the largest of them being the Severance hospital, situated outside the Nan-dal-mon gate. This Is the gift of Louis M. Sever ance, a well known Presbyterian business man of Cleveland, O., who hag given a great deal of money toward mission work throughout the far east Mr. Severance takes a business look at such undertakings. He says he believes that money invested ln missions in Korea pays bigger dividends ln the way of results then the same money so Invested anywhere else. The head of this hospital is Dr. Avison, and the chief assistant is Dr. J. W. Hirst of Philadel phia. This hospital treated something Ilk. 11.000 patients last year, of whom more than 2,000 came to the dispensary. The hospital Is now practically self-supporting. It receives only 2160 a year from America, the rest of the expenses, amounting to 12,000 yen, coming from the work of the physicians In charge. A large part of this Is derived from Korean patients, and over 24,000 from medical services td foreigners In Seoul. The hospital has a medical col lego connected with It and it graduated seven Korean doctors last year. It has Korean nurses and a nurses, training school, and also a cllnlo at which the bet ter class Korean patients pay 1 yen per visit. I Te Korean Y. M. C. A. One of the most striking of the new buildings of Seoul, is a three-story brick structure which has just been completed near the old Bell Tower In the heart of the city. This Is the home of the Young Men's Christian association. It is the gift of John Wanamaker, and, as far as good is concerned, it will probably do more, dollar for dollar, than any money he has ever spent. The building has cest less than 20,000. but . It oould not e erected in the United States for tbre times that, and, with the ground upon which It stands, it is worth several hun dred thousand dollars today. It covers, I Judge, something like a quarter of an ere and is thoroughly equipped as a technical training school, and as a modtrn educational institution similar to the Y. M. C. A's of our country. It has a large lecture hall, social rooms and lacks onjy a modern gymnasium to make it com plete. There Is room oa the lag. tttt this, Continued m Pag. Four.) V, r i f