Tim OMATIA SUNDAY BEE: APIHL 4, 1009.
a
1Z
An Extraordinary Event at
Tailored and Semi-Tailored Models of Various Mate
rials Long, Close-Fitting Sleeves, Shaped Collar and
Narrow Shoulders the Future in Waists Styles.
8
Waists for Spring
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MA-RID)
S-ST01HESP
T
II EE offerings for spring In ths
waist line Include a large
number of novelties that are
at present considered too high
class for general popularity.
The popular styles in wnlsts
consist of the strictly tailored model In
mannish shirt-like style, the semi-tailored,
which Is at once very dainty and practical,
and a few fancy numbers, which are made
of lingerie material, net and silk.
With the two-piece tailored suit nothing
looks as natty aa the tailored shirtwaist
and the question of taste Is left to the
consumer, for there seems to be an end
less variety to choose from.
tiff Collars, Soft Finished Sleeves.
The general tendency for severe outline
effects has done much to popularise the
plain tailored waist, but these little blouses
hare been so modified that they no longer
resemble the stiffly starched shirtwaists
of some seasons ago. The tailored waists
are made of soft materials and the dainty
touches given to thorn by way of trim
ming and other matters of detail make the
new tailored model a practical as well aa
comfortable garment The plain ahlrt
Ilke waists, with stiff cuffs and collars,
are still to be seen, but there Is a general
tendency for softly finished cuffs and a
number of the newer module show the stiff
collar, but the sleeves are finished like
the lingerie and fancy models.
Simple ttjlrm Prevail.
Simplicity In cut Is one of the principal
features of the new waists. Shoulders are
narrow, aloevce are long and closely fitted
to follow the outlines of the arm and every
suggestion of blouse Is precluded by the
smoothly fitting and well drawn down
models. Collars are still high, but not so
decidedly pointed and not bened too much.
The round and square Dutch necks are to
be seen among the advanced summer
models.
The trimming arrangement offers much
Variety. A number of models show the
Simple straight up and down treatment;
Other models are trimmed to form the
boloro . effect, and others again show the
banding In empire effect.
I Novelties la Waist Fastenings.
Many of the new tailored models are
made to fasten at the side In Russian
blouse effect, while straight front fasten
ings, without the slightest suggestion of
a pleat are one of the smartest Ideas in
waist fastenings. A number of the new
.lingerie models show this departure from
the regulation back-buttoned models. Many
models that are not fastened In front and
aides show blind buttons and other fast
enings and are Invisibly closed In the back.
Buttons are still employed largely for
ornamental purposes, particularly the
heavy crooliet variety.
, Colore Llna-erle Reason's Novelty.
Among the numerous novelties of the
season are the lingeries which are dyed
in colors to match or harmonize with the
tailored suit. These are shown In all the
new spring shades and are otherwise ex
actly like the white lingerie models. The
marquisette waist Is another novelty of
the season, which Is, at present, only to be
seen among the high-class expensive
models. These are daintily embroidered
and lace trimmed. Crepe has ceased to
be a novelty and seems to have taken Its
place among the better waist materials.
Crepes am seen in all white as well as In
color.
Wll Materials Offer Wide Raa-e.
The, tailored waist Is made of various
grades of linen, plain and daintily hand
embroidered, madras cf various weaves,
dlmdtles, . (jrcpes, pongees, various othor
silks and net, while the lingerie waist is
made of batiste, handkerchief linen, mull,
lawn, swIss, plain and embroidered and all
over embroideries. Net tucking, net em
broidered In floss and soutacho, Irish,
Renaissance, Cluny and Venlss laces and
softly finished messallnes are used for the
dressy models. Marquisette of high class
selling and a new cotton printed lml tat kin
silk In foulard effect for popular use are
the novelty materials of the season.
Heavy Usees of Trlmnilns; Ideas.
One of the most striking Ideas In new
trimming Is the wide employment of heavy
laees. The new cluny, real and In Imita
tion, is used very extensively. Hardly a
waist but that shows Some touches of this
new trimming. Irish and Venice laces are
also used to a wide extent In conjunction
with the plain clunles. The net top laces
are used very effectively In combination
with the heavy trimmings. Vols are still
to be seen among the popular numbers,
but linen laces are, at present, much to the
fore. Crochet battons, drop ornaments and
pendants of all kinds are popular trim
mings. Hand embroidery is one of the
most favored trimmings for the high priced
models, and there is a tendency for the
heavy embroidering In braided effect. Much
Is done with soutache braiding.
Color1 Quite Pronounced.
There Is quite a tendency for color which
manifestes Itself not enly In the solid col
ored lingerie and other waists to match
the suit, but many of the white and ecru
waists show touches of color in the trim
ming. Colored embroideries, embroidering
and laces are the means to give these color
touches to the waists.
It is no longer essential that the waist
should match the suit, exactly. Colors are
shown for blending and harmonizing ef
fects. For Instance, a waist of pale mauve
may be worn with a suit of deep wistaria.
A pearl gray waist Is chosen for a smoke
gray suit. Contrasting colors In waists
not too glaring are also well thought of.
Among the new colors In waists are the
new Empire blue, several rose shades,
myrtle and plive greens, banana, chamois,
wistaria and the soft pastel shades. Black
is much In evidence among the fancy lace
and net models as well as the plain tail
ored effects. .
SEW TACTICS IN BRIDGE
Discussion of Echo Plays for Third
Hand at No Tramps.
USE OF DOWN AND OUT ECHO
Conventions' that Help to Remove
, Old Difficulties, and Thoughts
on the Chssa the Bolt
IsjbjU.
The present season has seen several new
developments In bridge tactics which are
not yet In the text books. Some of thorn
are still In the experimental stage, but
with every bridge player perhaps, but each
of thetn with some coterie of players who
like to take up new things.
Among the many difficulties of the game
which are recognized by the experts prob
ably none has given more trouble than
the matter of understanding between the
partners who are opposed to the dealer,
especially In no trumpere. Almost every
text book gives a different set of rules
for the play of the third hand at no
trumps, although they agree upon the
U.. an.1 ...v.. ha .ktawl hanil who.
iv.ua wiu unjii .lis wii.a na.iu m n iiu 11
opposed to a trump declaration.
The authorities all admit the necessity
of third hand's unblocking, but they advise
the player to go about it In different ways.
Bridge teachers all tell the third . hand to
show what he holds in his partner's suit,
but they differ In the manner of doing it.
Now they are trying to combine unblock
ing and echoing at no trumps with a con
vention which Is Intended as an Invitation
to shift to another suit and to lead through
dummy.
It is obvious that any such system as
this will be Impossible until the authorities
agree upon the foundation upon which
this new convention. shall be built. You
cannot tack one Idea of an Invitation to
lead through dummy upon three different
Idjas of echoing and unblocking. In order
to make the system of any value It will
be necessary first to agree upon the ele
mentary principles of the echo at no trump,
so that the variations from this standard
form may convey the invitation intended.
Three Methods Followed.
There are three principal methods of
third hand playing at no trump which are
now followed, each being applied to cases
In which third hand makes no attempt to
win the trick; that la, when either the
leader or the dummy plays such a card
that third hand does not need to go over It.
The first method adopted by the great
mass of players Is to play your smallest
card always, regardless of number. The
second method, used by those who have
had a 'few lessons, but not from a good
teacher. Is to play the next to the smallest
only when you have four cards of the suit
led. The third method, used by the ex
perts. Is to play the second beat, always,
regardless of number or value.
In the first method the card first played
Is followed by the next higher In following
suit; but If the suit ts afterward led from
the original third hand he may return the
higher of two remaining or the lowest of
three, or he may lead any card that will
beat dummy, regardless of the number he
holds himself.
In the second method the lowest but one
Is followed by the lowest of all In follow
ing suit, but the returns are the same as
in the first rase. When the two cards
that would be left In the third hand after
computing the echo are such that they
might blo.'k a five card suit In the leader's
hand, the lowest card must be retained
and the echo must be suppressed. In such
oases It Is not only useless to begin It, but
confusing.
Meet AveU Confesloa.
Ia the third method the lowest card Is
always held until the last so that there
shall be no confusion or ambiguity either
In the echo Itself or In the return leads. If
such are made. Holding two cards only of
the suit led, the second best, to be played
on the first round,, will be the lower of the
two held and it must be followed by a
higher card under all circumstances In fol
lowing suit. In return leads or In dis
carding. Suppose that third hand hold the J 8 1
He plays the 8 to the first round and the
J to the second whether in 'following suit,
returning the lead or discarding: If he
holds four cards, such as J 10 8 2, he plays
the 10 to the first round, the 8 to the next
in following suit or In discarding, but he
would play the Jack In returning the suit
In every case the lowest card, the deuce,
would be held until the last.
This system of unblocking and echoing
makes a clear distinction between the yari
ous numbers of cards held by the third
lard In each case. With three In suit the
second card played is higher than the first
one, showing only one lower than either
remaining. With four of the suit the seo-
ond card played is lower than the first.
showing one higher as wewll as one lower
remaining. This method has the great ad'
vantage of holding up a card which the
leader can easily miss on account of its
small size and also of exposing the dealer's
false cards.
It Is upon this last form of the echo that
It Is now proposed to build the convention
which shall indicate to the leader that third
hand thinks It would be desirable to come
through dummy Instead of making third
hand lead up to dummy. '
Idea of the New Echo.
Every bridge player must acknowledge
that there are countless hands In which
the third hand would like very much to
get a lead through dummy, and that there
are probably just as many In which ha
would prefer to lead up to dummy's weak
suit instead. The idea of this new echo Is
to distinguish between these cases in such
a manner that the partner shall understand
which Is the better plan to follow. Many
a good card In third hand Is killed by an
untoward lead through dummy.
This convention Is chiefly useful when
third hand holds so many cards of his
partner's suit that he can manipulate IT In
different waya If he has four, for Instance,
he can show that ha Is keeplrg a card
which would win one round of the leader's
suit If it got the chance.
This la as much aa to say that he wants
the lead in order to play up to dummy's
weak suit. Therefore the leader may argue
third hand thinks such a course is better
than having dummy's strong suit led
through.
As a practical illustration suppose the
leader against a no trumper holds such a
suit aa five tu the A K Q, and third hand
holds J 10 S t. Let us first suppose that
third hand has nothing that would lead
him to wish for a lead thrcugh any of
dummy's suits.
The original lead is the king, on which
thiid hand plays his second best, the ten.
On the second round, when the queen is
led. third hand plays the deuce.
Now third hand cannot possibly have
held only the ten and deuce, or his play
would huve been the deuce and then the
ten. Neither can he have held the Jack,
ten, deuce, or his play would have been
the ten and then the Jack. The leadtr,
therefore, is under no misapprehension
as to the true holding of third hand, be
cause third hand must hold a card higher
than the ten, and alHO a card between the
tea and the deuce.
Kraals the Situation.
If Ihu orifc-'nal Ua ler woul Ilk a
lead up to dummy's weakness he can read
ths situation as inviting him to put third
hand In the lead. If he does not want
It. either because there la nothing to be
gained by It or because lie does not care
to risk it, he goes right along with the
ace of his own suit and makes third hand
give up his Jack and get out of the way.
Special Sale of Women's
(CJ 7T TArirhTT
VJv J IVl- 1 V.m4S
E SUIT
OF THE MOST ELEGANT CHARACTER
There are just 325 of these spring tailored suits all of them
newest 1909 samples. They will all go MONDAY at i or
LESS THAN REGULAR PRICES
Our New York buyer secured this group from one of New
York's highest grade ladies' tailors. It comprises his entire
lines of road and showroom samples.
Every Garment is Individual and
Exclusive and Has No Duplicate
Stunning 3-piece suits with jumper or full princess dress
effect; 2-piece suits in long, hipless coats and straight lined
styles. Many trimmings are of beautiful hand embroidery and
braid designs; other suits are plain and mannish in strictly tail
ored effects.
Materials are selected prunellas, in plain or corded, soft
French serges, new gray mixtures, smart hard twisted worsteds
practical storm serges, striped worsteds, etc.
All the correct colors" grays, blues, greens, browns,
tans, rose, catawba, reseda, copper and white serges,
To Omaha women who want an exclusive style in a tailored
suit of real elegance, this sale offers opportunities that have
never before occurred in this city.
PRICES WILL PREVAIL AS FOLLOWS.
.Women's Sample Suits, worth to $100, at $62,50
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $85.00, at $55.00
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $75,00, at $49,00
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $65.00, at $42,50
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $59,00, at $39,00
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $55,00, at $35,00
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $50.00, at $32,50
Women's Sample Suits, worth up to $45,00, at $29,00,
WE HAVE GROUPED 60 ODD SUITS, WORTH UP j
TO $40 EACH. TOGETHER WITH A BEAUTIFUL
NEW LOT OF "FASHIONSEAL" SUITS, all in one lot..
These are suits that are far superior to the ordinary medium priced
suits. Not one could be duplicated anywhere else for less than $35.
All the newest and smartest spring style features are included.
Remember that next Monday is the Remarkable Special
Sale of Women's Silk Dresses elegant taffetas, rajahs, messa
lines, satins and Shantungs. These are worth up to $35, at ea. $-1098
See them in our Sixteenth Street Window.
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The invitation was there, but was de
clined, that is all.
Now, let is take ths same situation and
suppose that third hand held something
like a tenace over dummy in another
suit. Of course he would very much like
his . partner to come through thac suit,
especially if tt is a guarded king in
dummy, which third hand could kill, or
a trick which is essential to savin); or
winning; the game. Unless there is some
conventional way of showing that desire
the partner is extremely unlikely to hit
upon the lead, and certainly not until ha.
has run off all his own suit.
In such a position, third hand holding
the same cards as before, J 10 I 2, plays
the ten on his partner's king, hut gives
up the jack on the next lead of the queen.
thus making it practically impossible for
his partner to put him in. Of course, the
leader goes right on with his queen, only
to discover that third hand must have
held four of ths suit, but departed from
the regular system of echoing with that
number As a rule the leader would miss
the two small cards at -once and would
certainly place the deuce on the third
round.
If It looks to the leader as if two l-ads
through dummy might be useful be tan
stop his own suit while his partner still
has a small card of It, and can lead
through dummy, letting third hand put
him In again for another lead through
djmmy jffr the first suit opened Is fin
ished. Am lulue. of Play.
The writer saw a hand of this kind the
other day in which dummy bad made it
no trumps with four spades to the A K
Q. four diamonds to the A K, four clubs to
the K S and one small heart. The open
ing Uad was ths king of hearts and third
hand held four to the J 9 and four clubs
to the A Q.
Third hand echoed with the 9 and J.
The leader went on and the dealer re
nounced. The leader shifted to clubs, third
hand made his queen and returned the
heart.
After the leader had mads the sixth
heart trick he led another club, one of
which suit dummy had discarded on the
second heart lead, and third hand made
three more club tricks. The getting two
leads through was what won the game.
One point whtch has been pretty well
settled recently is that it does not pay
for ths third hand to echo In a trump
declaration for any other purpose than to
Invite a ruff. The echo to show the com
mand for the third round has been proved
a fallacy, although many players have
adoplsd it. Careful analysis shows that
It is false in principle and at times very
confusing.
Ths fundamental idea of ths two players
who are opposed to a trump declaration
Is to get in their crop of tricks before it
rains. With that end In view the leader
shows what winning cards he holds ia
the suit he opens and ills partner shows
him how the suit Is distributed. This Is
accomplished by means of what is called
ths down and out echo.
Bome authorities Inslkt that this echo
should not" lie u d unless a !uig Is led
originally, showing; the ability to win the
second round of ths suit, upon which ths
echo will be completed. But this limita
tion la quits unnecessary, especially with
players who sometimes lead away from
aa aoa when playing against a declared
trump.
One can never tell who will win the
second round of a suit, so much depend
ing on the way the lead comes and the
dealer's Idea of how to play ths hand.
The echo is always useful to the leader,
If only In placing the suit.
Dona and Oat Echo.
This down and out echo consists in
playing the higher of only two cards,
neither of them as high as the Jack, when
no attempt is made to win the trick third
hand. If one of the two cards Is as high
as the Jack ths echo is unnecessary, be
cause when the Jack falls the third hand
must have the queen or more. If third
hand plays the Jack to the first trick. It
must mean queen or no more.
The great advantage of this echo is that
It enables ths leader to place the dregs of
ths suit, especially when dummy is the
strong trump hand and the dealer Is look
ing for opportunities to make his losing
trumps separstely. As a rule players re
gard ths echo as an invitation to a ruff,
and nothing more. It simply says, "Psrtaer,
If you lead a third round I can trump It."
But this Is a limitation. The,' great use
of ths convention Is as a suit plac.
When the down and out echo is used
to show command of the third round It
becomes useless for the purpose of lo
cating the remainder of the suit because
of the uncertainty. For this reason the
best players do not approve of those who
teach Uis down and out echo to show com
mand. Suppose that dummy declares hearts and
the original leader opens a suit of flvs
clubs to ths ace-king. Dummy lays down
thres small clubs and third hand echoes
with the six and deuce. What does this
echo mean?
If third hand uses It to show command
for ths third round the leader should shift
the suit at once In order to prevent the
weak trump hand from getting In a ruff.
If the echo means no more the leader
should continue ths suit so as to let his
partner get in ruff before his trumps
are drawn. Any misunderstanding in such
a situation may cost tricks.
Ckssgs la Bolt Signal.
Another convention is the change of the
suit signal, but it has not gained in favor
this season, has rather lost, chiefly be
cause It is necessary to have a previous
understanding with the partner and a tedi
ous explanation to the adversaries before
it can be used without laying the users
open to a suspicion of unfair play. There
Is something In it that smacks too much
Of the private signal business to suit honest
card players. Nevertheless it is probably
Just as well that bridge players should
know that there such a thing in order
that they may protect themselves If they
meet with It at the card table.
Ths convention consists of making an
echo by- playing a higher card before a
:rTr? In the suit which Is first led by the
dealer, not in the suit led by the iartner.
This echo is a command to the original
leader to abandon the suit he first oieued
and to try something else.
This command applies, of course, to un
eatabllshed sut1t only and shou'd he g'ven
only whon the tiilrd liunii, whj makes the
echo, has a suit which is either already
established, or good for three or four
tricks or which can be established more
surely and quickly than ths original lead
er's. Of course, there will be mors or less
guessing on the original leader's part when
hs gets In as to which of ths twe un.Jayed
suits to shift to, but he Is supposed to stop
and figure it out by comparing dummy's
cards with his own. It the two hands ars
weak In both the unplayed suits, prefer
ence should be given to the suit in which
the smaller number of cards are shown.
The same echo. In the dealer's suit, may
be used by the original leader aa s request
to his partner not to return the suit first
opened. Tills situation often arises when
the leader finds that the suit he opened
so hopefully Is against htm.
The Inventor of this convention states
that befure using It the players should
stop the gams long enough to teach ths
system to their opponents, because, how
ever Imaptlent to begin they may be. or
however little they may care to hear about
It, It la essential that the convention should
convey the same meaning to those who
have been pining It for months. Of all the
new Ideas that have lately appeared In
bridge, this chsnge the suit signal seems
to be the best desirable, aa It Is undoubt
edly ths least useful.
Why ths Old Tow rhssgrd Her Taas.
"Why are all those people flocking down
to Hiram liardupple'a barnT" asked ths
old farmer on the hay wagon.
"Hi's got a curiosity down thar," chuck,
led the village constable.
"That so? Whut kind of a curiosity
Is It'"
"Why. lii's old red ind-whlte Jersey
eow. The oih-r olKl.t t :e old critter had
the colic and 111 went down with his lau.
tern to give her a dose of cow medicine
Hlamed If he didn't make a mistake and
give her a pint of K'tsollne."
"Do tell! Didn't kill her. did itf
"No; but. 1 y heck. It had a funny ef
fect. Now, Instead of going 'Moo moo"
like any other sensible cow, she goes
iiuok, won; iijlo ons or then I
blamed automobile," Chlcaa JNews.
