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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 4, 1909)
; omaha, Sunday morning, april 4, 1909. . Ladies' Spring- Suits i Three-piece Suits Shown 'Very WidelyCoats nad Skirts Cut on Blender Figure Outline Coats Seem to Hang Straight from Shoulder in Long Graceful Lines. f f. 1 If : II j 1 I:! If it : lj HR position of the tailored suit, plain or fancy, la pretty well established among favored gar nenta for spring, a fronmiitcd future In cult fsshtofis Is the T hlch la stot, as in previous KoAjiona. shown In elaborate ooetume form exclusively, ant many of the practical walking suits, plainly and severely cut and tailored, are made la tarre-plece form. The twfr-pteca aulta pf the coming season are mark by the wider allowing of the high cut or girdle skirts, although the eult with regulation aklrt la aa often won among tha high-class goods aa among the more popular staple. Io, tla4 riser. Oatllae. A great deal f attention ha. been given to the cat tad atyle of the new aulta. which ar altos-ether patterned prr latest fashion In figure outline The garment must git the affect of yoathful alendor ness to the wearer. From the cut to the llghteat detail of the garment hu thla slender silhouette bee the Inspiration of the designer. The broad, drooping ahoul dera of prerkma seastons have given way to the straight, narrow one. Bklrts hanC Umply. but In graceful folde around the wearer, and usually gtv the effect that they fall from the bust Una rather than for the waist The buat la atill hlh and aleevea are long and narrow and follow the arm out line. Coata LVaaug Seml-rittea. The teaaon la opening with much longer coat than la uauaJiy ehown for spring and aummer. Although the correct length! Vary from thirty-two to' forty-five Inches, there la a decided preference for the longer length, of which Ute thirty-elx-lnch coat la oftaneat seen. In order to carry out the correct nlptees effect the coat must fall pretty far below the hip line. Beml fltted styles are highly favored and thoae garmenta that are out and trimmed ao aa to preclude any suggestion of hlpa and currea are Well thought of by authorltlea of fashion. The square back effect with etralght. narrow ahouldera and no sug geetlon of coat eeeraa to hang from the ahouldera, although there la a certain smoothness of the lines of the garmenta which preclude the Idea of looseness. Cutaway mm gtralglit Fronts. Straight front coat outlines are not want ing, but there la a greater leaning to warda the cutaway effects. The high cut aklrt aa well ao the trimmed front dreasea that accompany the coats are especially adapted for the cutaway atyle ; extreme cutawaye for the dreaaler trimmed suits and modified effect for the plainer two Plece plainly tailored suits. The collarless coat la much In evidence among the ad vanced aummer ltnea, and particularly among the lightweight cloth collar for the tailored effects and the fancy rolled collar, cut extremely low In front, for the fanclly trlmmed suit. The high Incroyable collar Is also seen, but does not extend to the throat In front. Moat coats are made ao aa to display a part of the stock worn un derneath as well aa to ahow a part of the bodice at tha throat. A number of coats still ahow the neck girdle and broad rovers... Many of the cutaways show a aide button effect by having the coat front but ton over ta one side, but thla la cut In such a manner aa to atlll reveal the trimmed front .oij skirt and bodice. Mouthche, Bnabreldery aad Button. A wider showing of soutache trimming marks' ;this ' season's . ready-to-wear llnea. A greitdeal la done with thla trimming in DAY; OE THE : UGLY GIRL She Dressei in Tictareaqne Style and it Pretty. FASHIONS KIND TO THE UGLY ONE Latter llaa aa Kqaal Chaace In the Bra at y Coa teat Peach Basket Hat ad Vp aad Down Di- NEW YORK. April i-"The day of he Ugly girl la .'hare." Bo exclaimed a French man dressmaker noted of late for his success in ' making women look pretty, oven when they lacked good features. Formwly the Styles; were' created for the one woman In a thousand the beautiful woman,'1'' h went on.! "Nuw they seem specially made for the ugly one. Dresed in on of the pew gowna one can scarcely tell ' whether a ; Woman Is a beauty or not She Is smart, chlc and ao novel that If her coloring la good she passes ' for a beauty. As for her actual features and figure they are so thoroughly dlsgulaed by fashion that It never occures to the beholder to pass Judgment upon them. t . . "The ugly woman to be beautiful muet be expulaltely groined. Her hair must be done In no uncertain fashion and her gown be exquUltely groomed. Her hair must be mastered the details of picture dressing she can to beauylul. no matter what her natural featurea may b. Yea, it la the artistic heyday of the ugly girl. The time of her triumph. avlasj tha t'glr One. 1 had,' an, ugly featured girl apply to me for a ' spring outfit. She had been badly treated by nature. Her front teeth protuded and her obln receded. Her nose was lumpy and her cheek bones high. Her eyes peeped , out from a rather fat face and ahe.wa not an encouraging subject for a beauty maker. Yet that girl was a temptation to me. I yearned to aee how 1 could transform her, "I aaw at once that my only chance was to make a picture of the girl's countenance. Bo I called In an expert hairdresser, who proceeded to dress the girl's hair In that exaggerated style of Psyohe knot In which a great bunch protudea at the back of the head Just about the nape of the nark or aevea Inchea In depth, breath and thick ness. . . , . "I then selected a hat which covered the glrl'S head completely. It came down over ber face like a great basket and at th back It reated upo this Immense kast of hair. Tbea that girl's bead was s picture. Actual) ahe began to look beauti ful. 'I am ptctuh.so.uely. homely," said aha And I could not but agree with her. Baa ST Is Co ml a ST Back. "The bang is returning. It will be on of the features of the. London hairdresalng. Already one sees krngllsh women of fashion with foreheads deordied with that fringe which used to be called the English bang. It is short, heavy and uncurled. But It la very fluffy and It la kept ao light by con stant wailing that It baa a softne thai braid and embroidered effects to carry out tha panel tdeaa In skirts and dresses, while in coats this trimming Is often used . to simulate the collar, cuffs, revert ' and bolero Jacket effects. Buttons are still In high .favor, although used more sparingly sad more artistically than In the last few ae aeons. Flat-stlLched effeota In silk, satin and other fabrics are excellent, while the . high-clas garments ahow touches of hear-' lly encrusted braid trimmings In gorgeous coloring and metal effects. Tassels and other pendant ornaments are In greater evidence than ever, for even some of the plain llnen-tallored garmenta show thla style of trimming. Heavy silk and cotton floss embroidering, either embroidered on tb fabric or applied in band and other trimming- form. Is used freely, and while a great deal of the embroidering is done in self-oolor, contrasting but harmonising color effects are well liked, "klrts Narrower and fewer Gores. Fewer gores, less flare at foot and anug fit are the principal featurea of the com ing Season's Skirts. Bult sklrta show much leas trimming than in former aeasons, and Whatever trimmings are used are applied so artistically that there Is no detraction .from the straight lines. All well-made garments fall In easy and graceful line close to tha figure and all trimmings ara arranged to conform to the general out lines f the coat. If a coat Is cut and trimmed straight up and down the aklrt follows this outline even to ths smallest detail In tha trimming. The sharply cuta way coata which show a graduated round Or square outline in back show the side and back tunic effect In skirt trimming. The side-buttoned coats almost Invariably enow a similar diagonal skirt trimming treatment. Skirts are much longer, although walking lengtha atlll clear the ground. Sweeping length are seen In the dressier garmenta Skirts are cut high or made with attached belt and girdle. The plain band skirt is still good, however, particularly in tha plainly tailored garments. The Season's Favored Materia le. Although there is a wide showing of fancy materials, much is done with tha plain fabrics. Serge la shown in various welghta and grades. Panamas are used to a wide extent, and particularly In the me dium class of goods. Prunella In plain and fancy wear Is one of the season's novelty offerings which looks quite promising. Various fancy mixture suitings In woven and colored atrlpe and check effects are also shown In large numbers. Tor summer wear much la thought of linen) rep. pique and other numerous linen effects. Ramie linen Is a high-class nov elty which augers for all soft and glossy finish linen Imitatlona for popular use. Satin trimmings on linen Is one of the coming season's Innovations, but Is Used on the colored high-class linens, which must be chemically cleaned instead of on the ordinary laundorable garmenta. ' The Season's Colors. Blue Is not only the staple oolor. but among the novel colors some new blues are.to. be sesn, among which are the pea cock, new cadet. Empire and gendarn shades. Several ahadea of navy head the blue aerlee. The gray series has widened conslderftbly, and besides taupe, stone and the amoke shades there are the oxford steel snd pearl. The brown series seems to run to lighted' shades than In former seasons, among which the natural leather and wood shades, chamois castor and banana are most pronounced. Green In cludes the olive, myrtle, sage, bronse and reseda, while the novelty shades consist closely resembles curllness. It Is very be- vU...u,a- u une iace tnat la no longer young. "Many women make a. mint-av i. k- study of tha bang. They consider it a thing ,w cnuarea ana very young glrla But uuue me contrary is true. "The bang softens features' Jhat are hard; it conceals the little llnea munrt the temples; It acts as a veil for the heavy llnea across the forehead and It makes ths face, look more girlish. I am nrtvum nil women of mature looks to wear this Kng- iisii Dang. "Like all thlna it must hj trmtA - tbatlcally. If even a fraction too long or a snaae too neavy it will look awkward. ' But here la where the expert hairdreaser can be relied upon, she knows how to cut a bang. r "After I had dressed the hair Of my ugly woman and had nlared a rr in. verted basket shaped hat 'upon her head, leaving only her big baglike- hair dressing to show at the back and a tiny fringe of bang visible In the front. I turned my at tention 10 ner chin. Barrlaa-e for aa Ugly Chta. "The woman with an uirlv -hm adopt earrings at once. Bhe ah' u!d also wear a long chain around her neck. Ear rings dress up the face and make It Seem wider. They also lenathen the lln. hnn. the forehead to the chin and they give a certain aecoratlve touch to tha profile. "Into the ears of this decidedly 111 fea. tured girl I hooked big handsome tur quolses. I selected turquoises because the gin s eyes Happened to T pale blue and turquoises seemed to deepen them and bring out the color. "Then about her neck I uut a anft whit. ruche, very full,, very tall and very thick. It was charming and It dressed up the ugly neck and chin, concealing It and Investing u witn a tnousand Mdden charms. "I wish men dressmakers and women dressmakers, too, for that matter under stood more thoroughly the possibilities of the ugly girl Personally I do not make gowns, nor do I conduct a hat establish ment. My business I wholly that of a de signer. My patrons come, to me for plans and I design their gowns. My success lies In giving them something becoming. . Tod cf Proreedsre. "I have been revelling thla aeason In the possibilities of the woman who has been until this year wholly neglected, namely the woman with no beauty, no atyle and an acute consciousness of her own defects. The principles I follow, roughly stated, are these; "Dress your ugly woman as though she had no face at all. Forget her feature for th time being and devote yourself to her gown. "Strive for concealment. Her' hat Is mere beautiful than her face; her gown more lovely than her flsure. Conceal face and figure and bring out hat and gtiwn.- "Force your ugly woman to have a nice waistline. Make this the one point on Which your work hlngee. Tell her that her wa!st raurl b .mall snd rsunl. In. slst that she diet and exercise until she has obtained the desired waist measure ment. "Study carefully the color schemes of the ugly woman. Den t Jet her put on colore Indiscriminately. OUe her certain tonea and tell her to stick to them "If she bo very ugly, then choose colors Wit it 1V 1 T1 .- It t of catawba, wistaria, imethyst, old rose and old gold. that are pleasing in themselves. ' "I love to take an ugly girl and do her hair in picture fashion. Often t have to spike the knot a the back with a dosen very decorative pins. And over this I must set the big round pot hat that al most hldea the face. Thief Difficulty Is Figaro. "But my chief difficulty is with ths figure, for there are women who Seem to have a grudge against themselves. They Insist upon walking as though they were trying to double up. They kick their feet Jong; they are awkward with their arms and they look short. And In these days of svelte girls shortness is to be avoided. I make my ugly short women look tall and glorious, willowy and graceful. "The long black chain worn around the heck and allowed to hang down below the knees In front Is one of the best of all known things for making a woman look tall. The big carved black wood beads, or the wicked winking Jet ones, are the moat picturesque. And on the end of this long chain the ugly woman hangs charms. I Insist upon a mirror In order that she may study her own face, and I make It a point that ahe shall carry powder fluff and a few other personal trifles In order that she may repair her countenance, should It need It, and It surely will. "Another very telling aid In gaining height la found In the little ornaments that hang at the aide. The alma bag is one of the best features for the ugly girl to adopt. It is hung from the belt by long cords and It adds to the length of tne figure. The ugly woman must re member that her dress la her most Inter esting point; not for an instant can she afford to neglect herself. "The ugly girl can always fall back upon a veil. But even here she must under stand a few beauty secrets. iThe bad vel! is worse than, no veil at all. "The red-cheeked woman who put on a blue veil will have a purple countenance. The aallow woman who wears a violet veil will have an orange colored face. The veil mingles with the complexion tints and produces new shades. Black and cream are always safe, and the ugly-faced girl can so arrange the spots as to cover her worst defects. "The ugly faced girl has a habit of droop ing her chin; It is a habit born of self cftsclousness and modesty. But If she will throw off timidity and boldly lift her face she will find that her appearance Im proves. The chin looks younger and rounder if the head be lifted. Shoes Help Rome. "Wear chlc shoes snd be sure to show them. Many a woman Is partly created from a dress tandpo!nt by the chltness of her boota Have uppers thftt match your kirtj have buttons that are picture but tons end be sure that yrur boots are dretsy. Make them as smart as they call be. "If the ugly woman le ugly also in figure t advise the rxaggeratrd styles In diess. In these extreme modes the woman with no figure at all or the woman with too much figure stands the same chance as the woman who Is Ideal In shape. The figure Is concealed by the exaggerated style of drtta. "The long, straight, peculiar gowns and coats are Just the thing for the wonun ft- hi t'.i,"- 'if f ll fori lrr V ' r- 17 who Is not certain of her form. They are exaggerated and they conceal defecta They are tight around the knees, either very short or very long In the waist, and odd generally. The ugly woman stands as good a chance In them as the woman of perfect fcrm. "This la the day for the woman with hemely hands. Bhe can wear sleeve with points that cover th middle knuckle of her hand. And she can put on glove that are In them.'elves too pretty for nnythlng, loose, chlc and full of charm: In this war her hand attract. "Hair can be made to grow almost anv color. My experience la that hair can be treated until it will actually come to any oeiirea snaae. I don't mean to say that I can make blaok hair come In snlden n. that I, can take white hair and make it come in auburn. But I do mean that I can treat brown hair until it Is almost any tint one may desire from a deep seal brown or a brilliant chestnut to a golden hue. It Is merely a matter of hair tonics, hampering and sealp massage. "It Is surely the day of the homely woman. Bhe who has no' good looks to boast of can turn her gloom Into retniein for she hss In her ugliness the pesslbllltles THE Cor. Chicago and The Famous Suit, Dress and Skirt Store Presents a Brilliant Showing and will hold a GRAND SALE of EASTER SUITS, SKIRTS and JACKETS SPECIAL SALE THIS WEEK lOO Nw Modsli SPRING SUIT'S 'ail MW' crtlE,Ll' Ilnlvs, Worth tZD.OO Styles are all chlc. Classy and uo-to-th-mlrut in v.P. .v Includes every new model are in putts that are the foundation of our Suit Musi- rr jt u ns and comnare with unw l.i m.k. .t .1. W.-rZZ TI price. Worth 25.0. Chofce of riiitu mr vi 0y ,T jm - Wit ; v, v. -. of great ptcturesqueness. She can make herself a real typo. And when she i gowned a ahe should be gowned and decorated aa she should be decorated, ,her features are regular, or whether her figure is drawn to form. "Her precepts should be three: "Make youraelf look like a picture girt . "Try to conceal your features and figure by sdopting the most artlstlo extremo in dress. "And have a long mirror In which you can study yourself conttantly, lest y'u forget that you are striving for effect." ' mss salahi IRT 16th Sis: . $1 very ohio aad clsssy, shown elsewhere at any pric. thirty styles. JL uays -J i sT' . r TV- . mm I; k in P WW. t 1ST . .A If kiwi' .r A-1 - Outrival Davy Crockett. They were telling hew well they could shoot, and Tom Dawson recalled a duck hunt In which he had brought down five birds with one shot. "Talk about shnntln'." began old man TUford; "I saw Jim Ferris do a mighty neat piece of work cne day last wek. His wife wil putiln' out the washln' and sho was complainln' about the pesky sparrow tnakln" dirt marks on the damp clothes with their feet. " 'They're thick ss bees 'round here.' says she. "There's seven of "cm sittln' On SMART EASTER SKIRTS ...... S and lo Beyond question the greatest the price daintily tailored in th I T a w chsneps that are positive Innovations. ApproDrlato. iwrvlcebl bkiru lor the whole season oiornlug or afternoon. J' rtit Wii'P sir iii.t J K ? , rttfsnf.' -m the clothes line this blessed minute.' " 'I'll fix Vm,' says Jim. taking down his shotgun, which he alius keeps loaded with fine blrclKhol. He tiptoed to the door, took aim, and" "Killed every one of tlicm sparrrws," brcke In Dawson. "You're wrong."" corrected Tilford calmly; "he never teched 'em, but when his wife took In the washln' she found shs had three pair of openwork stockln's and a fin peekaboo shirtwaist. "Success. Quick Action for Tour Money You It that by using The Bee advertising columns. TORE 322 No. 16th St P sn fru . lirovl Values valua w i,v ttr,A latest Ktvieo .HmUin r..i,i,.n French Mesh Voiles, English Worsteds, Chiffon Panamas and new spring mixtures.' Come early and get your choice. wv