E Tea and Boudoir Gowns of Inspired Design and Color EV IOKK, Oct. 24.-Th fash- N lons of the Reason furnls'.i much Insplrstlun for the de signer of th more elaborate type of negligee the tea gown, the picturesque and , 4 f a THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: OCTOBER 23. lf)03. m dainty boudoir (own. Short walsted models of the empire type, classic draperies, flowing lines from shoulder to hem, all these were once as sociated chiefly with the negligee. Only In that Informal garment could a woman freely Indulge her taate for the artistic, but we have changed all that an many of the lovelleat and moat modish evening gowna. dinner gowna, etc., suggest in the light of tradition, tea gown apotheo aea. Naturally all thle development of the artistic In dress reacts upon the negligee, and, aa we began by aaylng, the designers appear to be unusually Inspired In their designs for tea gowns and boudoir gowns this season. For the handsome tea gown, the most exquisite of the lovely, supple, new ma terials are pressed Into service and here, aa elsewhere, the soft crepe and satins and neta and mouMsellnes and chiffons prove ideal fabrics for draperies. The popular silk cashmeres and many of the fine silk and wool stuffs are alao much used, by the designers, and when one comes to consideration of less pretentlou models the very popular challles, French flannels, albatross cloths and cashmeres are as much used as ever. Fine soft broadcloths In beautiful tints are also nuccessfully employed, but soil so readily that, though attractive and comfortable for cold weather wear, they are not very practical save In medium and dark tones. The three negligees sketched for this 'page will give a good idea of the general ' lines along which the daintier negligees .fire being made up; but the assortment In the shops Is so large and varied that It is difficult to select any two or three models as typical. Some of these models are so complicated and ornate that they would be difficult to sketch and still more difficult to copy, but these three models, . while elaborate and charming, are easily understood. One In while aheer silk not so thin as moussellne, yet even less heavy than India silk, was a particularly youthful and dainty ..gown, with Its lines of Inset lace. Its bands of fine traverse tucking and Its lines of tiny pink roses and leaves. A girdle cf light blue liberty encircled the shortened waistline, was held by a buckle of the little roses In the back and fell In long sah ends finished by fringe. More ornate wa the tea gown of creamy embroidered net over pink chiffon. There the liberty girdle was drawn up to the bust line In front and knotted there, with long ends falling tq the knees and weighted with heavy silk tassels corresponding on a magnified scale with the tassel-like fringe on the sleeves and over dress. The transparent tunlo or overdress of one sort or another draped over a cling ing untrimmed robe of soft satin, silk, or crene Is a favorite Idea and Is develo-! In Innumerable ways. One especially lovely tea gown had a drapery of topis yellow lace the exoulslte deep yellow ttnred with brown In which the pattern wns run with a white thread. This loose tunle fell over a limp simple robe of white satin, and the girdle was of tnpas Liberty. flueh creations as this, perfect of line and delicious of color, are a Joy to the annreclstlve eve. and are. of course, h'gh prloed In proportion to their besuty. The blue chiffon and lace of the sketch waa an rwrfneni m"nei, p-nimns; mucn rrom me deft touch of dranerv .breaking the straight line of the front folds. Fancy runs riot in some Quaint Old World deslms for tee. rowns. "one for ex emnle. which w'll doubtless sound distress Inr In the telling was delectsble In the realttv. bsd a loose, pteturesone matinee arrangement In the old blue crepe, an ex nuMte. dull, soft shsde of ambelln blue. This fell In lone points at the bottom, two at bnek and one at each side of the front A band trimming of cream material re- Fine Neck Furs There b nothing handsome than a Fine Mink Set ad aothint store stylish But even in the test ex pensive Lanpher Fun you will End the latest and best styles. All Lanpher Fun are made with a cart and skill, the outcome of 33 Years of Experience AJk your dealer to show you Lanpher Fun. If he does not aeQ them, tale no other write us direct LANPIIER SKINNER & CO. Fur Mesmfactarera ST. PAUL ii MINN. we ' AImH ;v rn Peonies, 10 cents and up. Tulips, Hyaocintba nd others. Stewart's Seed Store . UON.ieilibt. A NEGLIOETJ OF BLUE CHIFFON AND LACB, ONH OF WHITE MOUSSEIJNB, LACF1 AND BMAI.L, ROSES, AND ONE OF PINK CHIFFON WITH EMBROID BltED NET COAT. sembllng a loose woven mummy cloth embroidered In dull blue, pink, black and white, ornamented the neck, fronts and short loose sleeves of this sack and a little blaa piping of white messallne with a hair of black ran along the edge of the bands. The close shirred under sleeves were of this white and black messallne, trimmed with embroidered buttons matching the band trimming of the sack. Under this odd sack was worn a perfectly plain clinging skirt of pink satin. Queer? Yes, decidedly queer, but lovely of color and Una and . with a quaint Old World flavor as though it had stepped out of some old French mezzotint or painting. Plain nets, simply trimmed In ribbon or galon and artistically draped over a cling ing but not tightly fitted robe, make charming tea gowna and some .especially chlo models are In heavy silk fur net of a genuine gold yellow made over satin of the same shade and trimmed with a nar row edge of dark brown and a very little heavy cream lace. There are marvelously lovely things In the Japanese robes, not merely the ki monos, but models which were designed here and executed In Japan, so that while the cut corresponds with occidental Ideas as to the desired lines in negligees, the (exquisite materials, embroidery and color schemes are purely Japanese. The loveli est model of this class that we have seen was a vlstarla design, the material crinkly silk crepo of delicate lavender, em broidered almost all over In great sprays of vlstarla shading through many soft tones of lavender to white In the blossoms and through soft gray greens to white In the foliage. The neok was cut square and the gown Activities Is the Home Disappearing;? 1SCUSSINO causes portending the wreck of the home In Hamp ton's Broadway magazine, Rbeta Chllde Dorr draws this picture of present conditions: One woman In five In the Dl tne wrecK Ot ine noma in namy lanmeni ana grow in. Jm m ruio, &u iiium I ton's Broadway magazine, Rbeta era should nurse their own children," added I T-kn- Avtkmrm this nlntllr Phlfiirn A anflila nlllM "ftTCflnt when th Lulled mates has abandoned the domestic life and has become a wage earner. Even thJs does not accurately state the situation. In country districts only two women out of every eleven are at work, but in cities, that la, wherever Industrial opportunities are present two women out of every seven are at work, nearly one-third of tim ttni woman population. How far the father of the family has ceased to be the sole supporter thereof Is shown In the statistics gathered In twenty-seven cities and tabu lated by the census bureau. The total number of women at work In the twenty, seven cities t. W4.696. Of these 17S.0M are boarding or living In the families of their employers. The remaining 731.666 are de- scribed as follows- Women the sol. wag. earner 98 861 One other wage earner in family a,'4l5 It0"" WMre In family.. ..ia,te9, fanUly8".'0 ther ww "rner' ,n ' Out cf 731.165 wom.n .r ,v m ' supportlng the family, and between a 8 416 and 682,804 are contributing to the family Income. Remember that these are city workers and represent nearly ene-thlrd of all the women In those cities. At last ac counts the number of women In Industry was increasing faster than the birth rate. mow long will It be before the home, ex- cept for rich people, will be as obsolete as stage coacnes, hoop-skirts, .and Merrv Christmas? Recurring periods of Industrial depression always bring poverty to the surface. We have no permanent class of unemployed In this country as yet-but we have a large population which barely manages to keep Its bead above water. When the tide rises ever so little above the average this bl population has to be rescued from drown ing. It has no foothold but the shifting sand, and It cannot swim. As soon as normal conditions prevail. It rallies and Is able to care for Its own again. But this last panic brought something new to the surface. It brought to light a force at work in this land of boundless wealth and unlimited opportunities; a force which If not met will result In a wholesale wrecking of homes. Already the silent force has eaten far Into the social fabric. Its outward and visible sign Is the fact that on the shoulders of millions of women has descended a monstrous double burden, under whlcn, not only they but their chil dren and their homes are slowly sinking. af ether Mho Pos't Kitw, "I continually have to deplore the gross Ignorance displayed by mothers as to the proper care of their children, not only as to food, but also In regard to cleanliness, dress and other simple matters," said Dr. Bernard F. Fuller of Chicago to a reporter, "and I do not hesitate to say that at least one-half of the cases attended by ma and other physicians need advice only and not medicine." Dr. Fuller was here during the tubercu losis congress, and speaking about milk as a food, for Infants said the best food for aa fell straight and clinging yet loose In front, while In the back the fullness was plaited In cleverly Just between the shoulder blades below a smooth embroidered yoke effect A band of lavender liberty satin Just a shade darker than the crepe bordered all the edges of this robe. Beautiful tea gowns for elderly women In the soft grays, the prunelle shades and In black transparent nets or laces over amethyst or white are shown. To come down to models more practical for the average woman and within reach of women with moderate dress allowance, one finds delightful little, ahort-walsted models in crepe de chine, whose skirts are untrimmed and whose short, loose bodices have only lines of trimming around the neck and on the short over sleeve or I shoulder and a tucker and undersleeves 1 of tucked or shirred cream' net, the tucker ending Just below the base of the waist A soft girdle is swathed about the waist and knotted with long scarf ends whenever It Is becoming. A gown of this kind will do duty for any sort of at home occasion, and indeed has little or nothing to distinguish it from some of the simple evening frocks. In albatross there are pretty loose robes bordered with wide bands of embroidery In silk or soutache and often lined with silk, so that they are not after all, such Inexpensive trifles as one . might think. The silk lining, is not, however, a neces sity. One attractive robe In pink albatross had a border of soutache embroidery, a Greek key design in black. The front crossed to the front and fastened there with three big buttons covered In pink and soutached In black. Similar buttons of Progressive Women in Various Walks of Life Infant is mother's milk, as 1t contained all the Ingredients necessary for proper nour- mother has or has had consumption or any other chronic disease. The baby should be nursed at regular intervals during the day and once or. twice during the night. "Most of the people these days are af fected with acute diseases, chronic ailments, general debility from which they could save themselves with little knowledge. People shut themselves up in close sleeping rooms, never feeling sufficient Interest in the mat ter to ascertain how much pure air Is re quired for one person and even when told that one adult actually consumes 150 cublo feet of air an hour, still submit to the con- m, . i .w.l. nnn. AA or ho. ""cm"", ' ' . 7. 'L cau" "0t Bcl0U, L,7 Thl e"e"l " -I, h " nl"ht alr' whl?h .ml?ht Com tt,?U.?. open window or a Dearoom, mrgun wr ui tltl ld- Tet culd re fM mo "ke to result from the sensitiveness produced by sleeping In closs rooms than from any amount of fresh air admitted at night "The same 1 true of food. A child's nat- ural tood mllk- Tet how 0,Um d W her ot mother boast that her child of on or two years, or even less, eats what ever she does, heedless of tne aci, even when told, that the very reason It doea not care for milk Is that Its appetite has been perverted by unsuitable food or drinks. "The almost Invariable mistake made In city homes Is that of excessive clothing and too warm rooms. Tnese two minga i among the most frequent reasons for taking cold so easily." The Kewest Profession. One of the newest professions for women that paya well la that of "demonstrator," and every big department store In New York has scores ot good-looking young women employed to "demonstrate" some thing. The growth of the "profession" was man ifested In an advertisement which shows the beginning of a new class of these pub licity promoters, and would seem to Indi cate that there Is no limit to the nature of the work. The ad In question reads: "Men and women without teeth wanted; paid by the hour; Friday, a. m. to 13 m. X. T. Z." The persons engaged will sit In a store window, exhibit the mouth without Dr. Forcep' teeth, and, whirling around, show a double set at J6.SW, and incidentally the difference they make In the countenance. The pay of the demonstrator depends on tiie nature ot her or his work, although most of them are women. Good looks is essential to corset exploiters, while the woman who shows how a piano may be turned Into a folding bed doesn't matter so much. As a rule a demonstrator Is paid 86 a day, while some exceptionally pretty or stylish woman who shows things used or worn by her sex get more. With the schools of saleswomanshlp teaching young wosnen how to approach a prospective buyer with a fascinating smile, the demonstrator actually shows curious jar tflL GOOD W1 Among Others That May bo Reached from Missouri River 8j fffv ' PQRIUKD 2& ii . y if ml- I pi Ma lcsiksei.es gf "Mi EVERT DAY to October 3ls, 1903 , MM Ik uaiea pahfig M CJI at, writs, or Wessons ta SLtT T,VJ, Ofce-1824 F,.rn.,n St. mMW held back the cuff on the loose three quarter sleeve. Challle, In plain light tints, with bands of white soalloped and embroidered in the color bordering neck, fronts and sleeves are dainty and practical. The scalloped border turns back over the ma terial like a facing. Sometimes, Instead of being embroidered in the color of the robe the white Is embroidered in black with good effect Eiderdown robes, wadded silk robes, zenana cloth robes and even blanket of white scalloped and embroidered In lines, have grown much more shapely, and garments attraotlve aa well as comfort able are now shown In these materials, particularly In the senana cloth, which is made In lovely colorings. Borne very pretty little wrappers of the shortwalated type are made in the fancy shoppers how the wares she Is hired to show off, look, or work, or act. Where formerly manufacturers had to de pend on signs and labels, the business com petition Is so keen now that shoppers have to be shown the merits of some new thing. On upper Broadway, In an automobile supply house, a well-gowned woman de monstrates how a patent veil can be put on or off In a second. In a big depart ment store a middle-aged woman with half her face free from wrinkles may be seen demonstrating a bleach. Biscuit makers, pancake flours, soups, new shoes, health corsets and patent beds' are being shown dally by this army of the new profession, and many women travel all over the coun try "demonstrating," with a route laid out like a theatrical star. A week in St. Louis, a week In Chicago, a week In St Pul. nl on. Their expenses are paid, "elr salaries besides. The new employment has proved a' great boon to many women, and the first feeling of nervousness over the publicity part of It soon wears off. Oaly Oa of Its Kind. The Women's club of Magnolia, Mass., Is said to be the only one of Its kind In ex istence. It has a membership of something more than 800, all women, employed as workers In the hotels, boarding-houses and residences of the summer population of that resort The club was thought out and founded by the pastor of one of the Magnolia churches several years ago. He opened a room where women could meet rest read or play games. The club soon outgrew Its quarters, and several of the summer resi dents, seeing the benefits afforded by such a club, set to work to provide an at tractive clubhouse. The new clubhouse Is a two-story build ing containing an assemby ball, a parlor, sewing snd reading rooms, a kitchen and eleven sleeping rooms. The majority of the members are young women who work during the summer as domestics to earn money to continue their education. The membership fees, 60 cents a yesr, and the rent of the bedrooms meet all the expenses of the bouse, which Is kept open only dur ing the summer months. Morass for Meddle Gifts. There Is one particular shop In New York which makes a business of buying dupli cate wedding gifts and It has show windows where these articles are displayed with price tickets on them, announcing the bar gain prices. It Is a morgue of fashion and mausoleum of all that is silly and extrava gant. Repousse silver and bottles Incased In the aame metal are among the principal exhibits. These bottles and decanters are alwsys hard to keep clean, besides being apt to break, and then It is Impossible to have them repaired. It is not now the, vogue to have a display of useless articles on one's table or sideboards, ar.d in conse quence much of this "wedding gift" silver has a cheap aa well as out of date appear ance, and It Is dcubtful if it will ever come In again. As everything Is served a It Russe, there is no occasion fur quantities of impossible knives and spoons, platters and forks. The kaiser baa a horror of silver. It Is said. challles, the bordered challles, finding es pecial favor for the purpose. We have seen one charming model of this sort In a challle of white ground with a black dot and a border design on inch band of plain black. A black liberty scarf girdle with fringed ends was worn with this. Leaves From Fashion's Notebook. As a rival of while this season for hand some evening gowns there Is a pale shade of buff which is exceedingly attractive. It comes In chiffon cloth, satin and guazes. Dead white cloth, chiffon cloth and silk will be used this winter for elaborate In door garments. To give these color a wide, soft belt of velvet Is to be added. The ef fect la quite vivid. It Is no longer considered fashionable to wear large puffs in the coiffure. It makes no difference whether they are one's own or bought and applied. They are out of style. Tulle and ottoman silk and velvet crowns and Insists upon dining off china, and a days much more closely than they do to dlsplay of family heirlooms In the way ot , day, so that practically every creation dls- preclous metals Is only In good taste, or permissible, on state occasions. One does not care to have the table look either like those set In shops for the display of wares, or again those devised by writers on eti quette or "helpful suggestions or hints to young housewives" or anything of that kind. And we get such extraordinary Ideas from returning hotel chefs and stewards who air their knowledge In newspaper In terviews or from a few facts garnished with much fancy. I read In an English newspaper a few days ago a recipe for serving cysters before dinner in the Amer ican fashion. A grape fruit was necessary and the interior was scooped out, and twelve "natives" coppery tasting bivalves with a decided flavor of their own, and often very good, but with toc strong a tang to admit of any mixture of seasoning. Over the grape fruit and the oysters, which were to be surrounded by cracked Ice, was to be poured a savory sauce, the principal ingredient of which was mushroom catsup flavored with anchovies and tinted with lobster coral. - Baace far the Gamder. Shortly before the ceremony the prospec tive bridegroom called on Rev. C. W. Wendte, a Boston clergyman, to give In- structlons. "I have beard." said he, "that you cus tomarily omit the word 'obey' from the marriage service. Will you please oblige me by Inserting It tomorrow?" The clergyman promised to do so, and when the crucial moment came he said, "Wilt thou, Luoy, promise to love, honor and obey?" 1 will," answered the bride. The minister went on: "Wilt thou, Ralph, promise to love, honor and obeyT" The bridegroom hesitated, stammered, gulped, and responded, "I will," evidently rot wishing to create a scene by desiring an amended question, but later he re proached the minister. "But you asked me to use the word 'obey'," protested Mr. Wendte, ,wlth a twinkle In his eye. 'How was I to know that you wanted It for the lady only?" Iksnlss (ha Hats ef 1880. One of the popular corners In the fairly bewildering millinery floor at one of Chi- i cago's big stores haa a tiny stage set with a spinning wheel and colonial furniture and graced by a pretty young woman at tired like the girl of 1830. 8he la not only a very pretty girl, but she has a quiet humorous appreciation of the quaint hooped skirts and the still quainter bonnets whicti she dons and doffs. There Is no band-clapping nothing but murmurs of admiration at the beautiful style displayed, evidence of a quickened appreciation of the fact that "grandmoth er's" costume was very .far fiom being what the caricaturists would have on be lleva All the hats there are more than a dozen of tbenv have been "built up" from the designs shown in a collection of 100 fashion plate brought over from Paris tills year. These prints depict the styles prevailing In Franc from U&0 to about IbCH. Ameri can fashion copied the French In those will be used with ' fur brims for toques, and will be far lighter and more hygienlo than the all-fur, which are too heavy for anyone to essay. Instead of lace and mesh net there will be a good deal of colored filet net used stamped In the new way. It is not unlike the flower net UBed for summer frocks and blouses several years ago, although the mesh is many times thicker and more open. This gives it distinction. The high class dressmakers are advocat ing simple waists of colored crepe de chine to wear with the winter cloth suit. There Is the heavy texture that can be gotten for this purpose. It does not look too dressy In combination with serge and cheviot One of the departures In the fashion this winter Is the - matching of the sleeve to the bodice Instead of to the yoke. This does not mean that the sleeve Is of the same material as the waist, for It Is usu ally a transparent fabric, but It matches In color. A lace blouse to match the suit will be more In fashion this year than a plain played was worn In America. Thla was abundantly proved by the ab sorbed Interest displayed by some of the elderly women who passed through yes terday. "My dear, I haven't seen a 'snowdrop' In fifty years,", ejaculated fine woman to tier daughter as the model put on a tiny white bonnet "Dear me, dear me how It all comes back!" None of the hats Is for sale, though there Is an unremitting pressure on the part of visitors to buy them. One, indeed, waa sold In the first hour of the opening on Monday, but that was by mistake. While the hats run largely to the "poke bonnet" or "shaker" class, they are all so soft In effect made so by an abundant use of chantllly lace and sometimes by lots of shirring that they are generally voted by the women as not at all Inappropriate for evening wear today. - British Husband Is Boss. A recent legal decision in Great Britain has fired the suffragette heart. The women of England awoke the other morning to find that they did not own their own wear ing apparel, given them by their husbands. Tnlg cIothlng belongs to the husbands and may not b seised legally or otherwise disposed of without the husband's consent In fact it Is impossible for a husband to give bis wife anything coming under the bead of "paraphernalia." His proprietor ship never ceases and the wife's posses sion never begins. It seems to be a sort of loan. The points of law that stand out In the greatest prominence In the decision are these: First A wife cannot dispose of parapher nalia during the lifetime of her husband nor can she dispose of them by wllL Second Paraphernalia, though not Hable to selsure for debts, are so for ber bus band' debt. Third The husband, even during hi wife lifetime, may sell or give away at pleasure his wife's paraphernalia. What Womea Art Delagr. Marl Corelll continues to write snd speak against "votes for women" in En- must pass is so full of dread that the thought fills her with apprehension. There is no necessity for the reproduction of life to be either very rainful or dangerous. The use of Mother's Frland prepares the system ; use oi d it is for the coming event, and it is remedy is applied externally, ind has carried thousands women through the crisis with but little suffering. - all expectant uwUuiri milled free. I 7 BKADriELD RtQUUTOX OO. AUmmtm. ii. , 1L J white or ecru one. One does not have to dye the lace, as the shops offer the mater ial in all the new colors. Green and brown, blue and violet, are among the colors, and the shades of these colors run the fashion able gamut. 1 If you are skilled In the art of tying twine or string, your hands are needed for the new dlrectolre sash. The ends ef It are now twisted Into the sailor's Turk's head knot. This Is a new touch and It Is quite effective. The folds of silk are laced and interlaced In exact sailor fashion Into the large soft balls which end the stream ers. With the skirts that have a center seam In front and that are cut to hang straight from a line three or four Inches above the top of the waist, there is a pad attached Just In front. It Is made of cotton and In closed In the lining material, so that the Inside of the skirt will be neat looking. It Is about four Inches long and two inches wide, and runs down the center seam di rectly over the waist line. It keeps the skirt from sinking In, which Is always In artistic. ! gland, while Beatrice Harraden Is busy traveling from place to place giving read ings from "Ships That Pass In the Night" and her other books to raise money to belp the suffrage cause. The Sketch,' an authority on beauty m London, says that the countess of West moreland la the handsomest woman ot the "Edwardlun era." She Is described aa "tall and fair, with lovely blue eyes and golden hair and Is very fond of all outdoor sports." The Woman's Henry George league of New York placed Itself on record as pro testing against the Board of Education giving food to hungry school children as "a step toward state socialism, and urges that Instead the tenement house and side walk laws be enforced, so that the unem ployed may find employment and support their own families." Mrs. W. W. Grlnnell Is the editor of the organ published In New York by those op posed to woman suffrage and It is a small sheet of only four paces, while the organ of the New York suffragists, called the News Letter, haa twenty-odd pages and Is said to enjoy as large a circulation aa many of the dally papers. Miss Harriet May Mills Is the editor. There are sighs of regret in some quar ters because the most important bud of the year, Miss Ethel Roosevelt, shows no sign of declaring In favor of the auto against the horse. There is no denying that the president's hostile attitude to the horseless carriage has Injured its vogue In Washington. Mrs. LonKWorth did much to give heart to those who preferred gaso- "ne t9 P"ncln steeds, but she has kept so exceedingly quiet since her marriage that her aid could not stem the current. The most popular girl, without doubt. In Germany Is Princess Victoria Louie, daughter of the kaiser, who Is a pretty little maiden of sweet 16. and not so little, either, for the young lady is quite aa tall aa the wlvea of her big brothers. Bhe Is considered too young for sweethearts by her father, but nevertheless her name haa been mentioned in connection with most of the princes of other countries, and when the time comes there will no doubt be more of them come wooing than she will know what to do with. Mrs. Emily Treat of Hannibal, Mo., 1 aid to b the first woman to bs employed as an official court reporter In this coun try. Some thirty-five years ago she ac complished on of the greatest feat a Shorthand reporter had ever performed up to that time. Bhe reported and made the transcript of the testimony in a railway lawsuit involving a large sum. It required something over six months for her to com plete the transcript but when it was done she received high commendation for the exoellenc of her work and the sum of O.M. .Mrs. Treat 1 still in acUv service. No woman can be happy without children; it is her nature to love them as much so as it is the beautiful and pure. ' I he ordeal through which the expectant mother Moiner r nana prepares me system passed without any danger. This passed without any danger. This