Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 27, 1908, HOME SECTION, Page 3, Image 27

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Bewitching French Neckwear of the Season
EW YORK, Sept. Ml. The French,
neckwear displayed In the iihopi
which make a specialty of uch
novelties grows more bewitch
Ing day by day. and one may
spend an appalling amount on
the dainty hand mad trifled, if
one la willing and able to do It.
The hand embroidered linen collar,
which queened It over all other neckwear
last season and often brought astonishing
rrlrea are still on th fashionable list, but
now they are forced to share their reign
with a host of stock arrangements, and the
frilly lingerie Jabots and bows, etc.. which
were worn with the linen collars, find tholr
prototypes In the similarly frilly arrange
ments which are associated with the stocks.
In this latter case, however, the frllla are
-isually attached to the stocks Inatead of
being separate accessories.
In Its simplest form tha new stock for
wear with oollarless Mouses Is merely a
closa high collar, sometimes higher at
sides and back than In front, and finished
at the bottom with a narrow oravat of
soma kind, which will cover the line of
union between collar and neckband. These
collars are made of tucked, corded or em
broidered lingerie material, with or without
Inset lines of lace, and are usually finished
at the top by a plaited frill, though many
good modela are without any frill at all.
and others have the narrowest possible
plaiting, which may bo becoming to the
woman who cannot wear one of the modish
wide frills.
Some of the very prettiest of these col
lars are of plaited lingerie stuff with yar
row lines of real baby Irish lace dividing
the groups of tucka, and often Inatead of
a sntln cravat a narrow cravat of the baby
Irish Is used, the Insertion being bound
narrowly on each edge with the batiste or
lawn and finished at tha ends with little
Irish dangles of soma sort.
Other stocks hava the close high collar
with plaited frills around top and bottom,
and while the ruche at tha top may range
from a quarter Inch to two Inches In width,
the one at the bottom may be narrow and
may bo four or five Inches deep, spreading
out flat over a plain corsage or gulmpe.
Tha width of tha plaiting around tha bot
tom of the collar is usually graduated, be
ing greater at the back than on the shoul
ders, and sometimes attaining considerable
dimensions In front, as In one of the models
sketched here. In which the plaited frill
falls like a rounded bib over the corsage
Another model whlch figures among the
cuts has a deep point In front and a tiny
cravat of taffeta bound with lawn encircles
the base of tha throat and ties In a small
bow, whoso ends are finished with minute
plaltlngs of lawn.
In the same group with this effective col
lar was a high collar of tuoked net and
real Valenciennes, finished at top and bot
tom by plaJted frills of the Valenciennes.
A narrow folded scarf of net was drawn
around the collar Just below the top frill
and knotted onoe In front, the long ends
widening and trimmed In lace insertion
and edging.
Fin net Is used quite as often as lingerie
materials for such stocks. In fact, net may
now ba reckoned among tha lingerie stuffs.
Rivals of American Glrla.
HE day of the South African
p m a I girl has not arrived yet, out
I I when it oomes let the Ameii-
I .n tri tn hir laurels.
for they will have dangerous
competition In the field.
Buch Is the warning posted on the eor- Wide as the poles asunder are the edu- for the Brown Falace hotel a week later,
sage of the London Queen by a South Af. cated Dutch women of the towns or those Mrs. Decker assured her that she could,
rican correspondent The Dutch women of indeed of the country who have been sent thinking that there were probably a grown
the Transvaal, says the. writer, ara tall Cap Colony or to Europe to school, up daughter and half a dozen grandchll
and splendidly developed, and there ara sdaptable as the Americans, with da- dren who would enjoy the ice cream. Then
the two distinct types, th purely Dutch elded mental ability, they are full of com- it passed from her mind; but at the con
wlth golden brown hair, gray or haxel eyes mnn sense, of good tempered gayety and elusion of the meeting at the Brown the
and creamy skin and the brunette of n Inherent sense of savolr vivre. same shabby little woman appeared. say
French descent with dark eyes and hair A wn0 nB been t0 I0(1 school In Ing she would like to have Mrs. Decker
and rich coloring. But both types ars on "outh Africa and afterwards In Europe meet her family. "Would you mind com
a larger scale than their European ante- na something most charming and fasrl- ng to the back of the hall?" she said
cedents. Ttee sun of South Africa Is a t,n" bout her. Handsome, vivacious, timidly; "they didn't like to come up front."
great vltallser. and the children of that "Pbl, with a clear Idea of what ahe still with those children in her mind's
land of vast spaces have mora room to want -nd how Kt it, she carves a eye, Mrs. Decker made her way to the
grow and develop In, and they lead from P'ant nd useful way for hersealf rear of the room. It was a woman's meet
thelr Infancy such an out of doors llfs throus"h "fa. ing, but ths little old lady had brought
that they are bound to be an Improvement H,r out-of-doors life has made her her family of seven sons, none of them
physically on their sisters of the northern
Dutch women of South Africa always
eeomnnlert their husbands in their lar-e
hooded, slow moving; wagons. Thjelr
nomadlo existence tended to carelessness of
habits and of dress, but it developed In
them an Infinite capacity for preserving
effort, a strength of character, a stub
bornness, as well as great vitality, all of
which excellent qualities go to the making
of a strong nation.
The present generation oan be divided
Into two distinct classes, the inhabitants
Of the veld and those of the towns and
villages, and while the fundamental char
aoteriattna r tha n.tna a-rit tenacity
levelheadedness. Independsnee-stlll. there
is a wide difference between the the Boer
woman of tha country and tha eduoated
Dutch woman of tha towns.
The former on reaching the age of SO
are large fat and heavy They marry
very young and hava patriarchal families,
and over husband and children they wield
a great way. an Influence very much
greater than that of the English woman.
To a stranger the Boer vrouw appear.
itupld and silent; she shuts her mouth de-
termlnedly and sits stolidly through his
visit; but In reality she Is taking a detailed
memorandum of his appearance, ways, and
manners and nothing escapes her notice.
It she Is persuaded of his friendliness and
good Intentions Ilia may relax a little; but
tha Dutch n.v.p hv anv ehanra tall von an.
the Dutch never by any chance tell you any
thing more than they wish you to know. .
Th Boer women have always been ac
customed to a good supply of Kafir ser
vants on their farms and they are not
quit tha ennrgetla housewives one Imag
ines, but they generally prevail on their
The "Kantstoop''
Shoulder Brace and Suspender
The only brace
that braces.
Positively cure the
habit of stooping.
Produces that uillttary effect so desired.
Women's, Girls' and Boys',
all sizes $1.00
Men's, all sices $1.25
Sold only yJ ta foil wing flealarat
B. Coraer 16th and rarnam Street,
Bole Manufacturer and Distributers.
pAxxJfs, CAUvOJurxA. I
and Is freely combined with batiste, lawn,
mull, etc.
Jabot arrangements of all sorts are com
bined with stock collars to match, and col
lar and yoke combinations are numerous,
while gulmpe and sleeve sets are offered
In all grades, the sleeves made on the pre
vailing linos, long and close. These sets
are made up In black and colors, as well
as In white and cream, and transparent
aleeves now almost Invariably match the
frock In color, al-
though some white
may be Introduced
next the face In the
Narrow lawn ties,
daintily embroidered
on tha ends, are
much worn
linen collars, and the
prettiest ar of white
with colored ends on
which designs are
finely embroidered in
white. In plaoe of the high turn-down
linen collars Farlslans are to a considera
ble extent wearing very high collars of
stiff linen without the turn-down part.
These are shaped upward toward the
back and fasten with two little studs or
buttons In the back. They are usually em
broidered and ara In all whlto or In white
and color, and eome of the daintiest models
have little double tabs of fine lawn em
broidered to match ths collar and fasten
In, to the latter by being passed through
... .... . . - . "'
eyent sups at the base of the collar In
Ruchlng of the finely plaited sort la hav
ing an enormous sale In various widths and
Is offered in fine net, In silk moussellne and
In hemstitched lawn, batiste and niull.
The lingerie plaiting. If fine and carefully
hemstitched, is exceedingly smart as Paris
tan Ideas of smartness go, but Its heavy
opaque whrte Is often unbecoming where
the softer, more transparent net Is becom
ing, and thle point needs careful consid
eration. and Views
servants to get the work done to their
satisfaction and there Is one branch of
nousewuery in wnicn iney excel me man-
in" of "komfyt" or preserves, whether
Jam making of the ordinary kind or a
niors elaborate method of preserving the
delicious fruit of the land.
strong and healthy and she sees the ad
tr"""' '
Slnc tnt wr' lf nnt b'fore, she hns taken
lrrMt ,ntr,,t Politics as well as in the
vantage of a certain amount of exercise.
worn or ner ratner or hustmnd and in pnil-
anthroplcal matters she displays strong
organising ability. She hns not yet de-
veiopea tn -remaie nacneior ways or In
dependent English womanhood, for In
Eouth Africa In every colony there la a
large surplus of men and the Dutch girl
invariably marrlss young and rules hus
band and family ever after.
Tbe Gentle Art of Chopping.
Who are the professional shoppers, who
r tnst ,0 cel the average woman
,n hr 'vo'lt8 Pt-me? Until lately there
w,r ,n New Yor,t City alone 5. of these
lfte1 buyers, reports Harper s Weekly, but
suddenly a relentless edict was passed, and
the numb(,r wftB reduced at one fell crash
10 "ler M0, And the urvlvln 600 are
do!n uln 10 thl ay- tollln 11
,tea,11y from morn tm de'y eve' compar-
n. Prflng. choosing, buying, and for-
"a rdl!,g to !he'r "'" fods hat
hey demand. The surplus 4 SUO were ellml-
"lfd b,MU",l,,J were " reK" lar; 4t
1. i .u.m.uu 11,
buslneas of shopping only as an avocation,
used It as a aide line to Increase their In-
comes by buying things for casual cut-
tomers In their off hours.
The first proressionai shopper in New
!, . .,, l v, lal, ,.
Tork Is a woman mho began in 1884, and is
. ...
still at the head of an Increasing business
that has far outgrown her most ambitious
dreams. Thsre are many amateurs or semi
amateurs In the field, but the purchasing
agent mentioned is on of the best known
and of longest experience. She was at
th head of the dress making department
when falling health forced her to give up
that employment. As she had many regu
lar customers In distant cities she offered
n Knv t V 1 4 1 1 cr fitr them Vnnwlnir thetr
W: Ml
Wmi mm
Iff K r9l
tastes as she did she had little difficulty in mai,,e " the ow the modem pro
selecting the very article, they liked best, 'esalnnal writer of jok... who h. made
Soon h had to hire an assistant-two- " , munr a,nd -wh Poor variations of the
thre-.oon ther were six. Also she built "''final thirteen. Let us dismiss this lm-
up a dress making establishment that em
ployed a score of experts tn the srt and
mystery of fashioning feminine costumes.
Mother Controlled Voter.
Mr. Sarah Piatt Decker, president of th
General Federation of Women's clubs, is
an ardent suffTiglst During the year that
Mrs. Decker lias hewn president of the
C.neral Federation of Women' clubs, re-
lates the DWlnuator. she has traveled all
over the union several times and has been
called on again and again to explain that
"really nice women" do vote. In one of
th eastern seaboard states an elderly gen-
tleman asked for Information, and when
Mr. Decker said frankly that she not only
always voted, but was a suffragist from
1 principle and conviction, he could not con- person who feels the Joy of spring as
ceal his grief. "You don't look It," he said much of a po.t as he who is able to eg
earnestly. "I would never hav thought press 1tT Is not th on who enjoys th
We have spoken
before of the neck
ruches In pl.itted
net, ribbon, eic,
but they Increase
and multiply so
rapidly that they
are a constant sur
prise. Certain
youthful collars for
wear with light
frocks are made of
wide, finely plaited
white tulle sewed
In two rows on
each edge of a
broad, black velvet
ribbon whose width
Is the extreme col
lar height.
The ribbon Is
drawn round the
throat and knotted
In a big, soft bow
at front, sld or
back, and we have seen the collar
worn with excellent effect. Not only black
velvet ribbon, but pale pink velvet blue,
cerise, etc., are uaed In this way.
Collars entirely of soft satin ribbon to
match a frock or hat are very smart and
comparatively reasonable In price, several
rows of the frilled or plaited ribbons being
set on each edge of a close, high, folded
collar of the ribbon; and adorable Uttls
collars of velvet and tulle, fur trimmed, are
among the latest novelties, but of these
we will tell the story next week in con
nection with fur neck pieces.
Bishop Grafton on Sunday Base Ball.
Bishop Grafton of the Episcopal dlocess
Of Fond du Lae, Wis., whose attention
was called to an attack on Sunday baseball
by one of hia clergy, gave the following
f"d hl? W" 00 much CUBal -
tlon: "Whether any recreation on Sunday
a allowable must depend upon the Individ-
ual conscience. If recreation Interferes
with his primal duty to God then It ought
to be given up, and while a number of
devout Christians would abstain from the
recreation named, there are others who
look at basebtill games or attend a free
concert at the park, which Is not harmful
to their spiritual life, they having done
their duty by attending In the morning
the divine worship prescribed by Christ.
Sunday Is a day of devotion, rest and rec
reation. While the church forbids all ser
vile work that can be avoided, It does
not Interfere with any recreation that does
not Interfere with a Christian's devotional
of Progressive Women in Various Walks of Life
you were a woman that voted. You look
like such a comfortable woman!"
itnco arier a meeting in one 01 me poorer
sections of Denver, a little old woman went
UD to Mrs. Decker and asked whether alio
might be permitted to "bring the family"
to a meeting which had been announced
under six feet tall..
Hut Mrs. Decker was equal to the oc-
Caslon, and aBked for the absent member
of th. family. "W. 11. you see, dad sells
ni. vote." replied one of the "children'
awkwardly. "We're noways proud of dad;
but mother Is all right and we always vote
like she tells ua to." From this It may ba
seen that a woman does not lose her "in
fluence" by possessing the ballot.
Mrs, Sage's Gifts,
Mrs. Russell Stige is the most original of
givers both in the nature and in the des
tination of her gifts. Where other phllan-
throplsts give to Individuals or private en
tnrprlses, says the New York Mall, she
gives to governments. She made the local
government the present of a rhododendron
plantation In Central rark. She made Bag
harbor the greatest present of a publlo
school. Now she mskes the national gov-
srnment the present of an Island of hls-
toric memories, nearly SOO acres In extent,
ths Hudson, near West Point, and It will
.dded to th mllltary reservation,
tm. ,,ke the other, not6di ahow,
m,B,tlon .nd sentiment, guided by ex-
crlletit judgment; both declare strong social
rpeiing;. So aoe, the 110,000,000 "Bags Foun-
flat,,". for social betterment. Large gifts
for 8alIor, and indigent females add to the
U8pfu, vhrlMy of thi good woman's bene-
u'Am. a ntmni,ii na. a -.ti.n--
WOme Are llimonil I ' ABdlence
Poor woman, what humor Is committed
in thy nam, and at thy expense! Liter
ature's and humanity's debt to you Is
great; for what Is mor delicious than the
naive, frequently unconscious "humor of
women? Let us not speak so much of
women's sense of appreciation of humor
as of thslr fin contribution to It, writes
Msy Irwin In the Delineator. I do not
refer to the unwilling sacrifices they have
jKJvn iBiieu imiiu ua quii'Kiy ana wun as
much sorrow a we do hi woful assaults
on the mother-in-law, th henpecklng wife,
the boarding house woman and the old
maid. He 1 not worth considering in the
discussion of humor.
Humor Is a matter of environment, of
hMts, of living, even more than" it is of
temperament. Everybody, regardless of
rX.or station. Is born with a sens of
humor, but ther ar circumstances that
retard or develop the faculty for a f0-
ulty I believe It is. 'Some of us ar born
with a grsatsr sens than others, but th
distribution Is not governed by sex. Ther
have been almost as many women humor-
lata as there have been men humqrlsts. I
mean this In the sense of feeling, well
as of expression and action. Is not the
lighter phases of life, who refuses to sub
mit to "the oppressor's wrongs, the proud
man's contumely, tha insolence of office,"
a humoristf
The humor of women is the more deli
cate element, softened and molded re
tarded, If you will by suffering and sor
row. I would rather tell a joke, a real Joke,
to a woman, or to an audience of women,
than to a man. Relate to her a joke that
Is clothed with Intelligence and humanity
and you have the best audience In the
world. I am willing to admit that wo
man's sense of humor Is not so well de
veloped as man's. Indeed, it has been
somewhat stunted by the sufferings and
sorrows of women. However, the result of
that suffering gives us a mind better at
tuned to the delicate things of Ufa; It Is
responsive to the finer chords of music,
of poetry of humor.
In a negro colony in the south a northern
woman spent some Idle days observing
the social conditions of the plantation ne
gro. Standing In the doorway of an old
cabin was a mammy calling to the chil
dren In the field: "Exy, Exy, yo come
right heah." A small, animated woman
was interested and she asked the old ne
gress: "Is that the child's name Exy T
What a queer name!" "Ves'm, yes'm. I'se
got good, 'rlglnal names full my chll'un.
I gets 'em from de almanac. 'Exy' ain't
her full name, no siree; her complete name
am 'Externa.' "
Three Women Loved Lincoln.
There was a wild rose slip of a girl In a
slatted blue sunbonnet with whom he
walked the lanes of his homespun days,
relates a writer in the Delineator. There
wss a clever, cultured woman, whose
brilliant Intellect lighted his ascending way
In the Illinois legislature. And there was
the belle of the gay social set at Spring
field, who fluttered across his pathway as
It led to Washington. On he loved, one he
tried to, and one he married. These were
the women that he courted. They loved
Lincoln. To them the greatest American
was far nearer than a lofty figure up a
high pedestal. They heard his heart beat!
These were the women that loved Lin
coln. One of them today lies near the
banks of the Sangamon, where ha loved
her. To the last there was with him the
long, long sorrow of her loss that cast its
shadow across his heart In youth. As
Travel Where You Will
You Will Find
Is "Always Right"
The Rotcte of the Southern Fast Mail.
Chicago and East
Steamer Connections at New Orleans for
Cuba and Panama
Trains equipped with latest designs of Pullman 1
Palace Cars, Chair Cars, Etc.
Homeseekers' rates in effect to points in the
South first and third Tuesdays of each month.
Tickets, Rates, Sleeping Car Reservations and detailed informa
tion at City Ticket Office, 1402 Farnam Street, Omaha, Neb
late as 1864 he pushed aside state papers formerly worked. Her machine is said to back they are Inverted so that the seal.
in h. -.. ,i , tir,i,i-t- fairly gobble up the letters put Into It. No loped or pointed edge may serve as an
in the executive mansion at Washington n open ioro thftn tg,rty a mlnute 0?ntlmenttX ,n,.h the iower edge of a
to talk of her late one night to a friend by hand. round or square yoke. This Is usually of
who had come from back home. One rests Miss Sally Word has Just been elected entre-deux strips of lace, with batise, or
peacefully in a little cemetery at Pleasant assessor and oolleotor of taxes for Fales- of the finest of all-overs Inset with filet
Rldire 111 The mother of five children Texas., and Mrs. B. P. Turner and medallions. The sleeves are of the flouno-
Ridge. III. The mother or me cmiaren, Mr R p 'Tui,ker ,lav b.,n ohoien as ing trimmed to match the yoke.
her tombstone reads, Mary Owen Vine- members of the Dallas Board of Educu- Every day produces something very novel
yard." One lies at his side in the great tlon. The election of these three women In trimmings, until one is fairly bewildered
mausoleum In Springfield, where the Stat the result of the opinion given th other in any attempt to ohoose. Some of the
. . ... ' - ... --lfh t,-.h day by the attorney general that under smartest garniture are the result not of
keeps her bier and his heaped with fresh, ,h9 constltutlon of US!xa, womsn are elig- the professional designer's art, but of the
fragrant flowers. When n assassin's ible to municipal office. oouturlare and th lea pretentious dress
bullet took his life, the American people Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney I one of the maker. For example, a oharmlng and ef
mourned a great president. She mourned Wealthy American women who likes to do fectiv border for a tunlo was evolved by
a great husband
,tt u i,i.a, man
rte was Wlo Kindest mu
In the world," she sobbed.
Husbands are largely manufactured out
of the raw material grown on farms and
outlaying districts, say Brooklyn Life.
.it. ,,.. v.
few City Varieties, DUI
There are some
they are poor in quality. Th farm output
Is usually taken to th city arly In life
and fed on rum, tobacco and business tin-
til he becomes fat enough to kill for tha
. , , , , . . .
matrlonlal market. He Is then led out to
the slaughter and used thereafter as a basis
for millinery and dress goods.
. . . , , .
Husbands form on of our chief asset,
They are patient, docile under treatment,
become enured early in life to hard labor
and are useful at dinner parties and pollt-
leal gatherings.
The American variety differ from the for-
elen hreeda In mnnu Imnnrtant mHIkiiI,,,
.... ..
He is more easily domesticated and stands
any amount of abuse without complaint.
There are several Instances on record
whor. husbands have slept night after
night In pyjamas, made by their wives and
starched under their personal supervision,
without murmuring. They have even been
known, In rare Instances, to attend church
Ther are several kinds of husbands.
Th early morning variety I very com-
-,!., i,i k... . t, j, .
panlonable, but hort lived. In some
households the silent husband Is the main
feature, acquiring this great gift by long
practice. The literary husband, as a ruls.
I. thin, and poor and ha. hi. hair rubbed
off in spots and lay his ears well back,
The Salt Lake husband ha a large, open
heart la liberal tn hia via.. " '
neart, la liberal In ms views, and many
sided. He is, In fact, all things to all
Th best husbands ara !,
-i ,1 V r cu Vounr.
when their spirits can b easily broken.
Wbt t'lnb "vV omen are Doing.
M.ibel Brwln, a young girl of 13, In Bed-
ford, lad., has passed the exam nation in.1
i , . i , . .
? mJ .? i .'L L .Tye8r , tea,',her ' .Ul'";M'
l?rlJ ?Z .! ,hJ " not allow
fl-'.0,. '"1 '.ih0 hleh cho1 ,ultl1 they
ara li years old
the noted suf-
Harriet Slantcn Batch
nu uaiigiuer or n l ady Stanton. Impressed Into the service of making these I1" t" rH 7 iff 3 oi.i iih fc !i
ha been asked by .Mrs. clarence Mackay Jtt,ts. They are worked by hand li? many ft, ""SS fro.neirlv In thC lh
to address the pupils of the Hoelyn school, colors the building date from early In the Lith
who are coninelinir for th t.H that lo,ur"- century, and the grottos and cells ln the
Is offering fd? the best ernav on worn! n Embroidery flounclngs are extensively rocks where Bt. Martin and his monks
...ttllJl 1 eBaay on wo,Iwn employed ln the development of the high- dwelt while their monastery was being
A St. Louis woman who has recently be- when they are used for th front and well aa to th rellglou visitor,
come tha proprietor of a second fashion
able hotel was asked why she added this a 1 'i ' ip i 1 -m mmm
respunsibiiity to her already great amount i
of work. "Well. I Just did It." she said,
"because four men had faJU-d and I wanted
to sliow that a woman could make that
hotel pay."
The equal rights wave ha reached th
shores of China, and It la reported that a
number of wives ln Canton have left their
huahands, saying that they will no longer
be subjeol to them. The wives hav the
worst of It, however, a the law gives
power to imprison them, and they hav had
to suffer th consequences of their rash
Mrs. E. N. Munson of Connecticut mad
tl.ouu lust year raising white Holland
turkeys, and, as she tells about It, the
work does not seem so very hsrd. She
Is very careful with her broods and kills
every chick that Is not up to the mark,
which shows what a woman can do when
ahe thinks circumstances demand It, how
ever painful the work may be.
Marie Hellbran of Chicago has Invented a
mechanical device which will throw thous
ands of her sex out of employment, a letter
oponer that will open 4j0 letters In a min
ute, or u,uuo in a day, th number that had
to be opened at th house In which she
mings fieraoii, ana nu ueuuuiv m, buuij'lui
.,., . xj 1 1.. .1,. hai
been haunting the Bohemian art quarter
of Paris, with, no doubt, the happy inten-
tiun of making Uf more pleasant for some
of the talented poor people, and has pur-
chased a great amount and given order
for number of things that will help to
keep the wolf from th door of artists and
sculptors, where he proverbially stalks.
d8,,gatV. to the International Typo-
graphical union convention In Boston, Is at
the head of the movement to raise 11,000,-
"7 XI.""'' b1 i. . ?
st Colorado Springs. She is a trustee or
th home, having been elected over eight
men who were anxious for the place. Bhe
n of th" "P1"1, mc,hi"T W'rl"r'M '2
th government service at Washington and
has Ven a member of th Typographical
union for fifteen years.
Leaves From Fashions Notebook.
There Is a great fancy for the waist piped
along th seams with another color
or til IK, lOUiarO.
satin and even of chiffon
are made up in this manner.
mor emphatic, both In outline and detail,
nd not a point Is lost that oan possibly
m effects?6"'" "owln "n" and cllng"
uioril orauroiucry mua inroiy in -ui-
hasislng the tinting scheme of soms of the
Colored embroidery aids largely tn em-
two-tone waists developed In tha sheerest
of striped dimities. These are so tucked
that a yoke effect In solid color Is pro
duced. On these the embroidery should
Bl,ow "Parcely any white, the better
... ,, , v. -w-
To wear with the lingerie blouse ther
ar, mtl8 wra,)g Cf laoe, or perhaps a cape
would b a bettor term to apply to th lit-
. 'fc tWt "ZSWi-TtiSi
ends to fall I upoS the gown. Hiere I an
f mbust secured upon
v, , . vi..
The wrist bag Is rrt of the b ouse these
days; It must match; Its embroideries must
carry out th harmony of the waist, and
there must be a general symphony of u-
pesrance, as a modlst expressed It. Lovely
bags of embroidered suede are carried with
waists that are of the sam ton. Tha
lining of the bag must match th hat or
the waist Itself.
c v. i . . . i-i s l.l . . n . ....
mHae f trlped lawn. The lawn la finished
u.uu i. i,
wnii waaimuio oiiiv aiiu 19 wuiii uver a 1111-
" Plk or blue or delicate green to
niatch t',ia ,tripe. ln the walst wtth the
Inwn shirt waist there Is worn a jabot of
tulle or lawn, with edge scalloped by
hand. All the fine, soft materials ara
1 .. I AW,r..n,al . ... . lm....-!.. V.l . 1 . u .. -
through the critical ordeal with safety. 'No woman who uses
Mother's Friend need fear the suffering Incident to birth; for it robs
the ordeal of its dread and insures safety to life of mother and child,
leaving her in a condition
more Favorable to speedy re- I x '
covery. The child is also h VI
healthy, strone and eoodli.
vumutiwuwii ...
rutlv nn tha ariaa mtikM laid a banflinar of
silk. In this case it happened to be dark
blue; set Just over the edge of it was ap-
pllque lace dyed a smoky blue. The pat-
tern was one of deep points with a scroll
deign at It base, so it served the purpose
peculiarly well. Between the points, partly
on the silk and partly on the cloth of tha
tunic, were a serle of graduated dots era-
w.mH In rnlHan hrown alllc. Another
border design consisted of an Iridescent
banding set between narrow applique lace
edges. .
nuLiaious motes.
Following out a plan of Archbishop
O'Conno), of Boston, th music at the fun
eral of priests in th future will consist
of Gregorian chants, sung by other clergy
men. Fifty priests of th archdiocese have
begun rehearsals of th music.
Arnhhiahon Hruchaal says that the next
time the Eurharlatio congress will meet In
Montreal. The original parish cnurcn in
that city Notr Dame has a larger floor
space than any other ecclesiastical build
ing this side of tha City of Mexico.
Since Mr. Banksy' death there yet re
main two at least of tu writers and mus
ical cotnposors of the famous "Gospel
Songs." Those are James T. MoGrana.lian,
nn tenor singur, ana w. a. uonne, wno
"Hinn. iha Parlahlna-" (and nthxr
JiS.-tmS. -n"""1. "na othr
Rev. Dr. J. R.
J. MUligan, pastor of
the first unuea resoyirian cnurcn,
Cleveland, was elected moderator of the
First Hynod of the west. He will havo
authority over fifty presbyteries, called the
Allghny, Uutler, Beaver Valley, Lake
and Cleveland I'reabyterles and embracing
200 churobea.
tT ififclZi oTM fVoS
n ct"lon. ,? l?
Mit "m.rSnalfy nLKf"sf ana
fcbout 3M peiBna aUelide,L includUig eight
??rdln,,J!,. ,nd many bliP- .
United States was represented by Arch-
t,ihop Farley of New York nd bis suite,
Tht retum of Cardinal Gibbons to Bal-
tlmora on October 10. la to be made the
occasion of of welcome worthy of the city
a appropriate to the homecoming of a.
r.rinr. hi lha church. Tha vanerat.Ta i,r.
lata has been abroad to pay his respects to
the Pope and to attend th Eucharlstlo
Pnnirr.Mi In 1 .iriflnn It la 1 1 h,v.
W0u0 loyal Catholics In th procession that
will eai'ort him from tha rullroMii station
- -, . .
to th archleplscopal residence.
The abbey of MarmouUer. near Tours
. . Martin ruled a. abbot and
oisuop. .nu ma uooy was ounea,
1'a. bee'1 ved trom destrucUon or degra-
1. . . 1 . tn .11 - -
And many other painful and
distressing ailment 9 from
which most mothers suffer,
rw Is.-. rrlAkA Kr ii ci n rv
h. pi Wail tVW WVU IVF U 14
iTir M etker' Friend. This rem-
XL flnt mothers, carrvine them